New Life Games Tech Forums

I replaced the battery on the motherboard of a built in '87 IGT slot machine I inherited, after it was out of service for at least 12 years. I cannot get it to clear and accept tokens. The coin comparator is not getting power and the candle light is flashing. I cleared the 61 code and the 61-1 and cannot get it to work. Do I need to reload the eprom back to factory settings?

Welcome to the site.

 :238-

Sounds like you're pretty close.  Once you replaced the battery on the MPU (or "processor" board) (the motherboard is the fixed board on the back wall of the machine), you powered on and got a 61 code.  You then pressed and held the self-test button for a few seconds until you got to 61-1, then you closed and latched the door, then turned and released the jackpot reset key on the side of the machine -- is that all correct so far?

Now what?  What is shown on the displays?

The machine should be ready to accept a coin.  It is typical for the bottom candle light to flash until one paid game is completed.  Additionally, you will never see the light on the coin comparator on, as it only has power when the door is closed and latched and there are no other tilts.

Is there a good sample coin in the comparator, and is it seated properly?  What happens when you drop coins in -- where do they end up?  If they're rejected to the tray, you may need to adjust the sensitivity on the comparator to make it less likely to reject coins.  Instructions on how to do that can be found here (http://www.usatoday.com/story/tech/2013/11/21/google-chromecast-hbo/3662741/).

Keep in mind, the build year of 1987 points to an S model, not an S-Plus.  The first S-Plus was about a year later.

After resetting, #2 shows in the coins played & spin reels lights. I press it & 3 reels spin & stop & 1 01 shows in the winner paid & 1 shows in credits, while 2 still shows in the coins played. If I press spin reels again, the display in winner [aid goes to 2 01, while credits and coins played stay the same. Another press of spin reels changes winner paid to 3 01, and a final press leaves winner paid and credits blank, while the coins played goes to 0. Tokens continue to drop straight thru, without registering.
Pressing the spin reels again, spins the reels and winner paid shows 1 01, credits 2, and coins played 2. Pressing s/r again, changes winner paid to 2 01, credits 2 with no spinning of reels. Press it again, and displays go to 3 01, 2, 2. Final push of s/r changes winner paid and credits to go blank and c/p goes to 0. This cycle continues with credits advancing to 5, and then back to 1 01,1,2.

What do you mean "after resetting" -- are you turning the jackpot reset key when the machine is idle?  Don't do that.  It's putting you into a bookkeeping mode which won't allow you to play.

Let's start with some basics.  Please describe in detail what happens when you first turn the machine on.  Do the reels spin?  If so, close and latch the door.  Once you do that, do the displays go blank for a second or two, and then the Insert Coin light lights up?

The more you can tell us as to what's happening with the machine, the better we're able to help you.

Also, can you tell us if you have an "S" or an "S+" machine?  You can tell the difference by how the MPU board (the board you changed the battery on) connects to the machine.  If you had to disconnect and re-connect some wire harnesses to remove and re-attach the board, it's an "S" machine.  If the MPU board and tray slide into place and out of the machine with the use of a black knob, and you don't have to connect any wires to the board to connect it to the machine, you have an "S+".  If you're not sure, post a couple of pictures of the inside of the machine and we'll be able to tell you.

When I first turn the machine on, I get a 61 code. Per the instructions on many sites, I have pushed the test button (white button on the CPU side) and then close the door and reset the key switch. The reels do not spin as you stated, when turning the machine on.

The candle light is slow flashing on the top, and fast flashing on the bottom. I believe this to indicate a tilt condition, yet closing the door and resetting the key does not clear it. Thru a few resets, the bottom light has cleared, only to return later. Are there orders of pushing the switches on the control panel? I find different results by doing different orders.

The machine is a IGT Double Jackpot, Serial # 303402. It shows Model No. 5534D, Description M/S Slot, with a date of Mfg of 5/87. It does have the main board that does not require disconnect of any wires, and has a black knob to remove it. It is mounted on the left side of the cabinet.

Turn on machine and see the 61. Open door and push white button for 2-3 seconds. Ideally, while holding in the button, you will either hear a "ding" or see the display flip to 61_1. At that point, CLOSE the door and latch it, and turn Jackpot reset key ONCE. Machine will pause a few seconds, then boot up normally, reels will spin, and Insert Coins will light up, and game is ready to play.

Once the steps are done out of sequence (even ONE time), the error will NOT clear and more than likely, will just revert back to a 61 again. If this is occurring, order yourself a Clear chip from one of the vendors, as you will need a clear to get past the error.

It is a simple process, if you know the steps. It is understandable with this being your first machine that it is easy to do the steps out of order. Unfortunately, once done in the incorrect order, it solidifies the error in the machine.

Let me know if you need a clear chip. I can send you one tomorrow.

It appears that I have, in fact, messed up the order. What do I need to do to get a clear chip?

Email sent,  :89-

Email was sent with Paypal Info. Did you receive it?

Thanks

Sounds like you may have a really early S+.

It's not normal to get a 61 error every time you start the machine, which is saying to me that you've been unable to successfully clear it (despite following the correct steps).

Roz, do you have a spare set of door optics you can throw in with his clear chip? If he's getting into the bookkeeping mode after the 61-1 when he keeps turning the jackpot reset key, I'm almost wondering if his optics aren't working. It's been way too long for me actually having a 61 in front of me, but can anyone confirm or deny that if you have a 61-1, leave the door open, then turn the jackpot reset key a few times that it will go into the bookkeeping mode?

Kevin (Roz as well),
Thanks for your help. I was wondering about the door alignment of the optics. I am trying to measure and see if they line up when the door is closed.

Just stick a couple of strips of masking tape on the side near the door optics...one on the door and one on the cabinet.
Open the door, and line up each optic horizonatally with a pencil and mark the tape.
Now, close the door making sure the door latch is all the way down and locked and see if the pencil marks line up!  :71-

I will send him some optics as well, but I do believe you can get into Bookkeeping by turning the key more than once with the door open or closed. I wonder if the display blinks when the door is closed? Doesn't it normally?

Thanks. Great idea. I'm shocked that I didn't think of that one. I checked it and it was about 1/16" off. Adjusted it and still no success. I am anxiously awaiting the clear chip. I really think I am in bookkeeping mode. It seems to cycle thru a long list of numbers from 1 to 70 or so, with a great deal of numbers displayed in the winner paid and credits lines. I believe that these are from the bookkeeping mode? I have not been able to cycle the machine thru the input and output lists as shown in most of the literature I have found. I was wondering if this early version had a different means of selecting various outputs, such as pushing a particular button (switch) once, versus multiple times, or if I need to push two of them at the same time. I will await the clear chip before screwing it up any further.

Thanks for all of the support.

One more thing, it appears that nothing on the door controls (coin optic comparator, door optics) appear to function with the door open. I saw one video from IGT, where the coin comparator had the led lit up with the door open. Earlier someone said it will not power up unless the door is closed. All of the fluorescent bulbs on the door do work, opened or closed. The only switch that lights up (on occasion) is the "spin reels" None of the others light up.

The coin comparator won't be on with the door open, and it won't be on unless the machine is ready and willing to accept a coin, something it currently isn't ready to do.  It sounds like you're getting into the bookkeeping mode -- your optics might be shot.

For kicks, I'd replace them with the ones that Roz sends you.  Note the wire colors.  The harnesses are the same, but the wire colors are different (one for sending, one for receiving).  Make sure to install them so the wire colors match where you're plugging them into.

Got the S+ Clear chip from Roz, installed it and cannot get the machine to do anything with it installed (even with pushing the test button, which the sites say to do, and wait for the numbers in the displays to stop.) Optics replaced on the door and still nothing. When I re-insert the game chip, everything reverts back to what appears to be the bookkeeping mode. I left a voice mail for Roz or Darrell, and am awaiting their return call.

Any ideas?

Haven't checked voicemails today. We're you the calls from Parker-Hannifan, wasn't that it, or something like that? Sorry, I dont answer most calls during the day, as I'm busy and can easily eat up 2-3 hours per day on the phone, I sent you the Clear chip out of Darrell's "briefcase" he takes on house calls and uses I the shop, so I am 100% confident in the chip. Are there other issues we are not aware of? Remember, a Clear chip is not a "Fix-All", it is merely a tool.

Are we sure those door optics are working properly?? Just because they are installed does not mean they are aligned and working properly. I'm wondering if we have issues a Clear chip cannot fix. If that is the case, feel free to return the Clear chip (as you may not even need it) and I will promptly refund your $10 and I'll just eat the $5.00 shipping as a lesson learned.

And just to re-clarify in case I missed it, has this machine ever worked properly for you?

Hmm. Okay, a couple of things:

Are you still getting a 61 when you first turn on the machine?

Can you try the clear chip procedure again, using the instructions found on the following page (start at step 63 near the bottom):
http://www.ohiogaming.com/replacementinstructions.htm (http://www.ohiogaming.com/replacementinstructions.htm)

If you still don't get anything from that, can you please post a picture of your MPU board. I'm beginning to wonder if you might not have a typical S+ machine due to the date of manufacture, as suggested by mvco earlier in the thread.

Don't get discouraged. Stick with it and I'm pretty confident we'll get you up and running. We don't get stumped often here. :)

I still wonder also if it's an S machine.  I have never seen an S-Plus made that early.  But cannot say it is not possbile.  I collect S games, and it seems they were made until mid 1989 when everything went to the S-Plus.  Maybe he has an early protype S-Plus?  

A picture of the board will tell all.  He mentions the board is on the left side of the cabinet, which would be early S-Plus.  Just have never encountered an S-Plus that old.

if you can't provide pictures answer these two questions.   do the reels operate using a stepper motor and do they connect from underneath the reel shelf?  does you board look like the one pictured in Ricks FAQ  "S+ set UP"   where is shows the reel chip and the SP chip.    If the answer to these questions is yes , then you have a S+ machine.

If you are in the bookkeeping mode you cannot do anything until you get out of that mode!. the door has to be closed and latched shut to get into and out of the bookkeeping mode!

to get out of the book keeping mode: turn the reset key one step at a time, you should see the number in the coins played window increment each time you turn the key. there are two programs, the first one goes through 7 sets of numbers, after the last number (7) the next turn of the key will return you to the game mode. the second program will go through 13 sets, then the next set will return you to the game mode.

Once you are out of the bookkeeping mode you should be able to open the door and you will be in the service mode of the machine.

Once in the service mode I can tell you how to preform any test on your machine.

Hope this helps
Jim

 

All bets are off....it's an S machine!!!! The model number would be preceded by an "B" for an S+ machine.  :279- :279-

mvco called it early too, but the black knob and no connectors to the MPU fooled us.


No more run arounds for me. From now on, I'm holding out for pics!!!!

well I am still holding out for more information.    I have worked on every type of M,M+,S,S+ Machine.  If it has a board tray with a black knob and a motherboard and no visible connectors then the machine has to be a M+( they had the same type of board tray and knob ) or a S+.   i HAVE NEVER SEEN A "S" THAT DIDN'T HAVE  BOARD THAT REQUIRED  THE THREE CONNECTORS. it was ALWAYS mounted in the back of the machine because the transformer/ light fixture/ the on/off switch and the three fuses were mounted  on the left side of the machine. I have seen "S" machines converted to S+ machines. they remove the whole assembly and replace it with the card cage and motherboard assembly for the S+.


Jim

You could have hit it Jim! He said his tag had M/S?

Now if it's an m+, it must be one of the last ones made.  

On my S model games, earliest build date is 1-1986.  On my latest built, the build date is 12-1988.  So you would think they would not be building M games that late, but who knows.

I wonder if this was an S converted to S-Plus.  the whole thing about the board being on the left, without the three connectors, and having the black knob screams S-Plus.  Man, I really want to see inside this thing!  

Photos of my Double Jackpot built in '87

More Photos

More yet.

Again

And yet again

And two more

Following the directions for the S+ Clear, after inserting the chip and repowering the machine, I get no activity on the numbers as expected. (After pushing the test button)

Let me know what better photos you may require.

Thanks for all of your help thus far.

My call was originally from work (Parker Hannifin). My cell is 601-374-1174

Is there anything on the displays when the clear chip is in?

It sure looks like you have an early S+.  Your MPU board is exactly the same as the one that's in one of my S+ machines -- I just took this picture a couple of minutes ago:

(http://i39.tinypic.com/24fchvk.jpg) (http://oi39.tinypic.com/24fchvk.jpg)

The only obvious difference I see is the empty socket on your board near the middle, left side (U17 I think?  I already put my board back in my machine).  I don't know what that chip is for, though, and if it's vital or not.

Anyone have any opinions or ideas?

If there's nothing on the displays with the clear chip, for grins why don't you try moving that E15/E16 jumper over to the other position (lift straight up on the jumper, then slide it over the two pins on the right instead of the two pins on the left it's currently on), then put the board back in and power on.  It probably won't make a difference, but try it just in case -- it won't damage anything.  Be sure to return the jumper to its original position when you're finished.

Also, is there anyone near Jackson, Mississippi who might be able to help this member in person?

Wow, it is an S-Plus.  I wonder why they were still building S games over a year after this one was built.  The S-plus platform was so awesome, I would think they would have only been producing those, rather than still offering S model games. 

The dark brown cabinet interior is exactly what all my S games look like, and my earliest S-Plus in 1989 of course has the gray inside color.  Interesting stuff.

I wondered about the empty chip (U18) space as well. Not sure what that could be controlling. I did try moving the jumper and got no change in response. I get no display whatsoever, of the numbers read-out. They are blank.
Anyone know where I can get a chip that belongs in the U18 position? (Or if I even need it?)

You don't need the U18 chip in there.
I have run many S+ games on various MPU boards that have had that socket unoccupied.

In messing around with MPU boards, I physically installed a similar "butterfly" chip in there but it did nothing.
I came away from the testing believing that it may ONLY be needed for the rare 5-reeler S+ games.

Personally, I have never seen whether or not that  U18 chip location was occupied on a 5-reeler MPU board
because I've never seen a picture of a working one.
So, I'm not sure if it's needed for a 5-reeler or not
but I DO know for sure that it's NOT needed for 3-reel games.

See if you can take a moment to answer Knagl's questions in Reply#36.
I think he may be onto something that may help you here about the displays and jumpers?

It is a S+ so has anyone checked the power connector on the mother board?
It could be the same problem the S+ have with the power plug on the mother
board burning up and losing connection.

He did:





...except that he has bookkeeping displays when he installs the original game chip back in the machine.

This is really odd all around.  :-/

Does anyone know what voltages should be read across the terminals of the main, large transformer at the back of the machine? I am reading 120 volts across the right hand terminals, but do not see any particular readings across the terminals to the left (terminals 3,4,5,6,7 & 8). Also, I am curious about the transformer on the main board, as well.

If you want to get your machine fixed don't get off the path to getting it fixed!!!.   why do you want the information on the transformer???   lets look at what we know about your machine,

all the fluorescent lamps are working,  you said the reels did spin,  we did get information on the display, the reels button did light up, the denom lamp is on,  the candle is flashing. so what does all this tell us?

120 vac getting into the machine,(one fuse is good), reels did spin ( +vb and the voltages to control the reels are good), info on the display (+vb runs this display) (another fuse good) the denom lamp on (7vac run these lamps), the candle is flashing (7vac run these),(another fuse good)  this machine only puts out so many different voltages and noted from all these items all the voltages are good.  you can confirm these by undoing one fuse at a time and see what function does not work. The only other voltage we have not talked about is the main +5vdc that runs the logic on the board, and because the reels spun and locked up and gave info to the display tells me the cpu is operating, so the +5vdc has to be good. 

Did you ever get out of the bookkeeping mode???    YOU HAVE TO GET OUT OF THIS MODE BEFORE YOU CAN DO ANYTHING.   AND IF YOU ARE IN THE BOOKKEEPING MODE, that tells me that the optics are good, because the only way to get into the booking mode is to have the door closed and latched and then turning the reset key.

hope this helps

Jim

Jim,

Thanks for this feedback. this is the first I have heard about which voltages control what. I did, in fact, check all of the fuses initially, and they were all good.
Being a newbe to this, how do I get the machine out of bookkeeping mode? I hear that the door optics are VERY sensitive. The bottom of the candle light flashes fast, indicating that the door is not closed, yet it is. I have verified the optics alignment and it is good. I have, during other tests, been able to get the bottom candle to go out, but it only returns with the next test. What process do I need to do, to get out of bookkeeping mode? I am all ears!
The only reason I was seeking the voltage values from the transformer, is to verify that it is putting out. If it is not producing the voltages, the fuses could show good. I cannot get the coin comparator (at all) or the door optics to function consistently.

Thanks,

Bill 

read reply #22.

what tests are you preforming? and how are you accessing the tests?



Jim

Jim,
Thanks for your patience with me on this. When I power up, I get a "61", and pushing the "self-test" button does nothing. I turn the re-set key, and the numbers start at 01 and go all the way to 72 (skipping a few along the way) and never gets to "there are two programs, the first one goes through 7 sets of numbers, after the last number (7) the next turn of the key will return you to the game mode. the second program will go through 13 sets, then the next set will return you to the game mode."  I can send the entire read-out for each number if it will help.
 

Ok. then you can get out of the bookkeeping mode.  get out of that mode and don't go back there for ant reason, none of that information applies to homeowners. And I am assuming that the reason you can get into the bookkeeping mode is because the door is closed and latched.(meaning the door optics have to be operating for this to occur) this resolves that issue of the door optics.

so now!!!  in the game mode you get a 61 and it never changes:   you are in a 61 loop, the only way to get out of this loop is to clear the machine, using a clear chip. If you have a know good clear chip and it will not clear, then you may have a motherboard problem. there is a small chip on the mother board that goes bad and will not allow you to clear  the machine.

My hunch is you have a bad motherboard.


Hope this helps

Jim

In your very first post you said you were getting a 61-1, now you're saying that the 61 never changes. Has the behavior of your machine changed?

I'm not trying to be snarky, but since we're not there to see what's happening, you need to really spell out what the machine is or isn't doing.

That said, have you ever been able to change the 61 to a 61-1 by pressing the self test button?

It appears that my motherboard is not functioning correctly. Anyone know where I can send it to get it checked out? I was able to get to the 61-1 in the beginning, but now it only goes to 61.