New Life Games Tech Forums

Firstly, hello from England!

I have just purchased an IGT Haywire Deluxe (I believe an S-plus model) and i'm having a problem with it powering on.

When I say powering on, once switched on, the reels twitch a little and have friction against them if you try and move them, but nothing lights up at all, and that is basically it.

I have checked the three fuses, reseated the MPU and had a look around for anything obvious.

Any help greatly appreciated as there seems to be a limited knowledge of these models here in the UK :(

Thanks again,


Paul

check the cable from the left side of the power supply (where the fuses are) goint to where it sits the MPU sometimes it have bad contact, try to see if the display turns on when you move the cable,  i got that prolem 2 or 3 tiimes in  S+

Thanks for the reply. Connector and pins on the board look fine, no dark patches etc. Have moved the connector around and nothing changes. I do seem to have power to the reels as they have tension against them when it's switched on.


Paul

one time I had  tension but nothing on the display like you and i  changed the power supply , that worked for me.

Do you have any readings in the display??? I am still thinking fuse or fuse holders....

No readings whatsoever, no lights, just the initial very very slight movement of the reels and the friction against them. Apart from that, it appears totally 'dead'. I have checked the three fuses and they meter good.

Paul

hmm...are you running 220 volts in the electrical outlets in the U.K.?
I'd be opening up that power supply box top panel and checking if the bus bar is jumped correctly.

Could you give me a little more info or steps to check how the machine is configured power wise?

I am currently running it on a 220v to 110v step down transformer, the same that I use for my Jukeboxes etc. I have tested the transformer on another machine and it works fine.

Thanks,

Paul

okay...good answer reado10!
I' suspecting the transformer may or may not be putting out enough amps but you do say the reels are in holding mode when the machine is powered up...that's a good sign.

Make sure your 3 fuses are: from top to bottom...>>>6A, 8A, and 6A quick blow fuses ( Little thin wire inside the glass tube)


The IGT S+ is designed to run on both currents (110 v or 220v) providing you move a jumper in the Bus bar located
on the floor in the power supply box.
Give me a couple of minutes and I will dig out the info for you okay?

Thats really helpful, thank you :)


Paul

I need a little more help from you.
Is your power supply box on the bottom right of the machine floor or
in back center of the cabinet?

IGT made a few styles of the S+.
They also moved the MPU to the back rear of the machine from the left hand wall.
I'm wondering exactly which machine cabinet set-up you have?
A picture ofyour machine's guts is worth many words here!  :89-

ALso, I'm guessing you don't have a 220v cord to run from the power supply to the wall outlet?
The wall plugs are different from the U.S.A. ones.
We might have to stay with 110v and your transformer.

Thanks for your reply. I am not with it until later so will take a picture then if it helps, but the power supply box is on the back wall, and the MPU is on the left wall of the machine, looking in from the front.

Paul

ok...then your set-up is like this?

Exactly like that!

And you've checked all your molex plugs on the backplane/motherboard? Here are some notes I had on this (most likely from Jim/MidWest Slots or Stayoutofthebunker!):

If all the fuses are good, then check molexes on motherboard:

Pull the hopper out.

On the motherboard (the small board that is directly behind the hopper), there are a series of molexes that are connected to it. The big one in the middle is the one that has all the power connectors. Remove this one. Use a pen knife and/or a white eraser and clean the pins as best you can.  Check this molex for signs of scorching. Ideally you should replace this connector you can usually get away with cleaning it up. use a bit of contact spray and a little wire brush. Reseat the connector.

Thanks for this. After some reading last night, I read that the Molex was a common problem on them, so did have a look (6 pin one I believe might be the most common problem?) and they all seemed exceptionally clean and intact. I did give them a little wriggle with it powered on and didnt get as much as a flicker. I will re-check them again of course :) I read that if there is friction against the reels, this means there is a fair chance that connector is fine, is that the case?

Thanks to you all so far for your help.

Do you remember if the denomination light is lit on power up? (It's the one in the center of the reel glass (under middle reel) that has a sticker saying 25c, 5c, or $1. Is this lit?

That's goodnews and bad news...lol...I'll tell you why...>>>

If your machine has the exact same service outlet located like mine in the picture, then it's a USA machine that wasshipped to the UK.
If you click on my photo above, you'll see the white, square "Service Receptacle" on top of the transformer next the the largest orange decal label. That's a USA outlet.

If you have a multimeter, you can set it at 220v and stick the multimeter probes into the "Service" outlet and seee what voltage is coming out of there....offhand, I'm guessing 110v because you are running the machine off a 110v transformer.
This "Service" outlet is always "LIVE" as long as the machine is plugged into a wall outlet!!
It is NOT switchable and stays "LIVE" because it runs directly inline with the power cord in the wall.

I am still suspecting your power tansformer that you're using isnt strong enough as an S+ uses quite a bit of amps when the hopper is running ( it's not running right now tho) and may explain why the fluorescent lights aren't kicking on?

Let's try a test for kicks without the display on.
The machine can  run without the display showing anything!
This is what you can do at the moment...>>>

Open the door, flip on the power switch, check to see if the reels are "stiff" (in holding mode really), and press the little button on the bottom edge of the coin-in optics board.

This coin-in optics board located under the coin comparitor will have a dark rusty red 10-pin connnector with 8 wires going into it.

The little button on the coin-in optics board is called a "Service Coin" switch.
Every time you press the button, it will add one credit to the game being played...you should also hear a ding sound each time you press the Service Coin button as well....however, you may not hear anything if the speakers aren't working correctly or the volume is too low.
Press it once and press the "Spin Reels" button on the deck. The machine should "play" one game.
This is verified if the reels spin to new stops!

If you can play a game without the display working, then the problem may lay with the display lamps being burnt out.

Also, is the coin denomination sticker ( 25 cents I assume?) lit up at all?

If not, rotate the lamp holder and pull it out and see if it's burned out?

haha...CV responded while I was typing with one finger.... :96- :72-

Won't a bad fluorescent lighter starter also kill these machines? You might try pulling the starters for the top, reel and belly lights to see if it helps

Wow, what a reply! Lol!

Okay, so I have just rushed home like an excited kid to have a play.

The domination light wasn't lit, however, I switched a lamp with another and and it is now lit. So a faulty lamp there which is more progress than I have had so far!

I think I have the same service port as you, the Slot was sold through a company in Vegas that no longer exists and shipped here to the UK from what I know. Like you said, as I am running it on a step down, its 110v.

The question going through my mind is has somebody re-wired for 220v, and therefore i'm not giving it enough power?

I have a power transformer giving 300w is this enough. I have tried it with the hopper in and out, but no change.

In an ideal world, I would wire for 220v and make myself a power lead with the US plug one end and UK the other. Is this simple to do?

Ok, so the test. The coin comparator has been changed to take UK 10pence coins. However, there is no green light on the comparator, it's not lighting. So when the button is pressed, nothing happens. I did try and spin just incase but nothing.

Here are some pictures with power applied:

And another :)

I forgot to mention. The reels are stiff and I get one click from the speaker when I power it on.

Paul

Starters removed. No change. Thank you for your suggestion though.

isn't the power supply selectable for 110 or 220 volts?
I don't have my notes currently in front of me right now but I believe there's a purple wire that can be changed in the power supply to go from 110 volt to 220 volts.  if the previous owner had already done this that would explain the low power that you're seeing now

Interesting. Would love to know how to check this. Really don't want to give it 220v and kill it completely without being sure.

Paul

Located on the back wall to the right of the transformer is a 5-position vertical Bus Bar.
You can see the gap between black with purple striped wire and the 1st three wires?
If you move the purple wire from location #5 to location #4, it will become a 220v machine.

120V Bus Bar Configuration:
Top #1 position = Black Wire w/red stripe
#2 postion = Black Wire w/redstripe
#3 position = Solid Black wire
#4 postion = Empty Spot
#5 postion = Black Wire w/ purple stripe

Here's a photo I took of the Bus Bar with the purple striped wire in the USA 120V position.
Again, for your machine to accept 220V, you need to move the #5 to #4 position
and get the appropiate power supply plug that fits in a 220V outlet.

Your Configuration will look like this for your machine to use 220V...>>>

220V Bus Bar Configuration:
Top #1 position = Black Wire w/red stripe
#2 postion = Black Wire w/redstripe
#3 position = Solid Black wire
#4 postion = Black Wire w/ purple stripe
#5 postion = Empty Spot  

Click on the photos below to enlarge if desired...these pictures are from my 110V machine set-up...>>>

Paul,
check out this post
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=2381.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=2381.0)

Haaa,
Mark beat me to it with his pictures.

I know if you run a 220V machine on 110V you will get lights and the machine will act as you described. I experienced this with some 220V machines off a cruse ship.

Also see this post where Mark shows the proper voltages at the motherboard.
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=13434.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=13434.0)

Thank you all again for the useful information and links. I have discovered something interesting / maybe concerning?

Here is a picture of my bus bar.



I have 1,2,4 and 5 used.

Confusing me is I have a Black Wire w/red stripe in 1, 2 and 5, and the Black Wire w/purple stripe in 5. I have no solid black?


Paul

Yup, something doesn't look right.
Do the pin out and check the voltages at the motherboard and report back.

I'll try and meter some more when I get chance.

Can anybody confirm where the wires in the bus bar should come from? E.G number 2 on the primary to number 5 on the bus bar etc?

Thanks again,

Paul

This is info from a prior thread

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=2381.msg18523#msg18523 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=2381.msg18523#msg18523)

Thanks for the links.

Well progress here and as it's 1am I think I will stop at this point and wait for some more good advice.

I have spent the evening with a multimeter and finally decided it had infact been set for 220v.

I made up a US to to UK power lead and once brave enough, plugged it in.

It now starts up, everything lights up and the strobe light on top flashes.

Two problems now exist... I have an error code 12. Guessing I need to do the battery fix?

Also the game won't play. By this I mean it doesn't accept coins. Looking inside, the coin comparator doesn't have the green light/led lit. I'm assuming this should be?

Progress is progress however! Thanks so far to all of you and putting me on the right track.

Paul

 :244- :244- :244- :244-
On your minor success...

Now, Yes 12 error is bad battery. Don't push anything else or turn any key switches until you install a new battery on the MPU.
Then see instructions as to clearing the 61 error you will get once you change the battery.
Machine will not play until the battery has been changed, so again don't do anything further until the battery is replaced. I'm only repeating this in an attempt to prevent you from having a 61 looped error requiring a clear chip.
No the led on the coin compairator will not illuminate with the door open, so don't use the fact that it's not illuminated as an indicator of a problem.
Also the top candle will flash until the machine completes it's first play cycle after power has been applied.

All in all you have good signs of a working machine.
we'll stay tuned for tomorrows adventures.
 :310- :275- :310-

Double check the white molex connector at your backplane. This is the short harness that feeds power from the power supply to the mpu. They tend to overheat and then loose conectivety. Very common failure on the S+ slots. When the connections fails there will not be any numbers displayed in the win paid or credit meters. The reels will also be de-energized.

All good points!! While we await your reply, as you are sleeping and we are NOT, lol! As NeonKiss instructed, Replace your battery and we will go from there! Woohooo!!! Batteries are much easier than harnesses to find!

Awesome answer post Neon! That's why we love you!

That's great news!  As has already been pointed out, you must replace the battery on the MPU board before the machine will do anything else (including accepting coins or playing).

Yay!!!  :273- I knew it!  :267- Inquired about it in my 1st Reply!! I knew it was the power configuration!!!!!  :72-
Glad you're on your way to a working S+!!!  :89-
Hey Neon! Thanks for finding  :209- them old multimeter pictures! I LOST those!! :128- :182-

Good evening all!

More good news! Just replaced the battery on the MPU, performed a reset and then clear of the 61-1 and the slot starts with no errors!

It then wouldn't take coins but I remembered the tip earlier of using the button below the comparator to add free credit which brought it to life. Maybe stupidly, it suddenly became obvious that a coin comparator is called exactly that because it compares the size of the coin on the way in... Mine didn't have the base/example coin installed, so did this, and it now plays on coins! (Luckily had some quarters left over from a previous trip..!).

The only question I now have is the 'Cash Out' button. I'm not sure if this is right but when I press it it lights up and if I press it again, it turns the light back out (light on the button). Is this correct?

Thank you all so much for your help, so so pleased. Picked the slot up for £100GBP so I guess about $150, not sure if this is good or bad, but so far has cost me probably about $5 for a battery and just my time!

Paul

Good news!  :wa
For your information...the coin in the coin comparitor unit is called the "Sample Coin".
You can use tokens too...they just gotta be around the same size as the coin you're using now and matching the Sample coin.
 
You can set the "Cash Out" button to be on all the time if you want.
Do you need instructions on how to do it?
I'm sure someone has a PSR sheet laying around!

What SP chip do you have installed in there?

More useful information, thank you :)

Okay, so you lost me at psr and  sp?!

Is the cash out button meant to function the way mine is? I'm assuming that it means whilst it's lit, the cash is dispensed opposed to banking credit?

Also need to work out what all the menus do when I turn the jackpot key in the side of the slot'

It's a learning curve for me but a lot of fun! :)

Your machine is fine...it's presently at the original IGT "factory" settings right now.
That's the way they mostly come off the assembly line set as.
I think they wanted to have the coins come out clanging on the coin tray originally! Lol

A PSR is a sheet of information specially written for the chip you have installed in your machine.
An SP chip is sort of a operating system for your machine - similar to Windows XP or Vista operating program systems but much more basic and archaic than anything out there nowadays!

The PSR sheet will have all sorts of info about your SP chip installed
and the different settings you can do to your machine - including the Cash Out button's behaviour.

I can attach a copy of it if you can determine what chips you have installed on your MPU.
Here's a link to some directiions on how you can do that...>>>

http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/SPSS.htm (http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/SPSS.htm)

The cash/credit button is working correctly.  When lit, machine pays go to credit, when off, pays go to hopper.  The PSR will tell you how to configure so that it default to what you have, to credits, or to cash.  Most people use the credit option, unless you like inserting coins in before each pull of the handle.