New Life Games Tech Forums

Got a bid down on one of these but can't find any info about it, says 1p, is that penny or UK pound? Payout are really low so I cannot imagine it's a penny game. has 3 reels and pays left to right. Pays  2 coins paid for 1 Cherry, 4 for 2 Cherries, etc... It looks like max payout is only 200 coins for 3-M's and only pays on center line with no multiplier or extra coin option so I'm guessing it's got to be a 1 pound machine. Made by Miami Leisure Group.

Sounds like a Japanese slot to me...or, correction, skill stop machine. A Google search shows nothing for Miami Leisure Group, so whoever they were, they didnt last long. Buy with caution...

I have to say that I believe you hit it right on the head! After I looked into it a bit I see now that it has 3 buttons on the front that are like stop or save buttons. I can't really tell but it has some warning on the side stating something about holding the button or it will be used differently, I can't read it but it has to do with the buttons. I also looked into the coinage terms of the 1p as it states and found that the p=pence=penny=UK coin like the penny, so this is simply a very useless machine, the upside of it all is that I have been outbid! :136-

sound like a English slot from England . you won't miss anything they only paid out 75% in England on slots

Roz you bring up a good point and a good memory. About 14 years ago I was playing in Deadwood, SD in Miss Kittys and the machine I was playing had a hold button and a nudge button. It was a 3 reel standard slot, Bally I think, but couldn't swear to it. Does anyone know what it actually was and what platform it was based on. And no, it definitely wasn't a skill stop. Also, I believe it had a built it BV

in  England they added  hold relays and buttons to older bally em slots

This one I was playing looked enough like the slots around it, which were IGT and Bally, that I didn't even notice the nudge buttons till I got to reading the glass and had been playing it for a bit. It was a modern, to that time period, machine

Ok, just for the record...I just turned 42...I'm not old enough to "remember" such an animal....just read about it in the "Old Guys" magazine!!!  :97- :97-

Don't start with that, I played it in like '97 so you'd of been like 27. More than old enough Roz

Damn! Always has to be one wise guy in the bunch.... :97-

That's right, only wool that gets pulled over my eyes is a balaclava

OK! I have the skinny on this one now since I am the owner of it, I;m able to take a closer look and found that it is indeed a Bally Holdem style game Built exclusively for Miami Leisure, making it extremely rare and that's why so few have knowledge of these games. It's based on the exact design as the Hold'em platform but it looks to be in a lowboy Cabinet. I'll be posting some pictures once I get it cleaned up a little bit.
  First things first, I need to get my hands on a 1 Cent coin Mechanism for it or maybe I should consider moving to a nickel set up? Seems to be move available parts for nickle machines as far as coins system goes hoppers and parts for hoppers. I'd rather not stray from the original set up but I do need to get started someplace eventually I'll have to wire in a momentary switch for the coin relay part until I round up the correct parts.

So far that's all that I see that is missing, all the wiring is there and the reel assembly is complete. Nothing has been ripped out or moved around like the last one. Of course I';m sure there's going to be a pile of loose contacts and broken wires that look like they are connected but that's the easy stuff. It's not rusty or look as if it was subjected to much dirt or dust but does have a musty smell to it. Probably the wood, it's kind of splintered a little on the bottom edges and may have been contacting a dirt floor or maybe a rug.

 The other one I have now started to examine is an 809 3 reel 5 coin single line pay machine, this is the first one that actually has a tag on it!
The Reels were a bit stiff and the odds setter was locked in place so I couldn't get the reels to spin at all but it was a simple matter of lube and force that broke it free and now the reels are spinning freely. The action is a tad slow on the stops but it seems to be getting quicker as I spin it more.
 So far I looked at the bottom to start with the power input and saw the fuse panel was not connected to the machine but just laying in the back with 1 fuse assembly missing. I've replaced that holder and heading back out to see what should be connecter to it and try to find out why it was removed. It may be it was used for parts on another machine and they just never bothered to put ti back in properly.  The molex plugs are still in  on the wires so it's still complete.

I'll get some pics posted and see what you all think of these. I'm more excited about having the 809 since it's very similar to my Liberty Bell Special as far as the electrical side goes and I've been wanting something that has a bit more flash while playing. The Matador has M's for it's big pay out and is a very dark machine lots of Black being used and Red as an accent color. Kinda reminds me of a death like design, not really a friendly looking machine at all. Give me an hour or two to get things situated and maybe I can get some lights to turn on for some pictures.

I just tried to post pictures and my entire post just disappeared! I have fixed the 809 Model and need Belly Glass for it.
If any one has some glass that will work please let me know I'm not looking for anything special maybe a 25 Cent, Quarter, Bally, Bars and 7's, 3 coin or anything that will match with the colors or Theme. The cheaper the better!
 
  I have ordered the parts needed to fix the Matador and they should be here next week. It's a Hold N Draw Machine that shows 1P on the glass but has a 6 Pence hopper disk? Is that compatible with US nickles? I have a complete Susan B Anthony coin set up includes everything to convert it. From the coin drop slot to the slides to the coin mech, all the slug parts, the hopper: disc, motor, gears, knife and some other front edge parts and maybe counter switch parts. Some were hard to see and in a Baggie.
 Basically everything needed to get mine fixed as far as missing parts goes.
 Keep in mind that I paid $69 + light Bulbs and a coin mech for the 809 total cost so far $86 + belly glass ($25?) = $111 Grand total and works perfectly!
The Matador will have a total price including parts so far at $113 + blubs and coin swap over =$52 +$113= $165 if I can get it going with whats all there now and don't have to buy anything more than a few small items. 

I'll try again with the pictures but I'll do it in another post so I'm not retyping this all again if it fails to post.

Pictures of the latest projects:

more pictures

What you have there looks exactly like a converted Bally Sir Prize. The door hinges, and the unlined wooden case, date it to 1968 at the latest. If it was a Sir Prize (Or Jolly Joker/Taverner/several other names) there will be evidence that something used to be screwed in the upper right of the case, above the handle. This was the Sir Prize time jackpot unit. There may also be labels stapled to the wood inside. On the left side of the mech down toward the back there may be a ratchet and pawl with a wiping contact and a solenoid. That was a "2 plays for one coin" device. If you trip the solenoid by hand, you should find you get two pulls. At the back top right are two relays, one for coin in and one for hold enable.

There's no "Miami Leisure Group". All these machines went to England under contract to Courage Breweries and there were thousands of them. They were pulled out around 1970 when the hold/draw and time jackpots became illegal, and most of them were modified by one or other of the showman companies and put out again as arcade games. I see it has "random hold", which was one of the mods to make it legal, There will be a cam timer in there somewhere wired to the hold relay so that it only comes up occasionally. The correct wiring for the hold circuit is that the relay is wired in series with a contact on each hold solenoid, and with a contact on the win relay, and a contact in the stacks on mech left side that closes momentarily about the same time reel 2 stops. If no reel is held, this contact pulls in the hold relay, which latches. If there's a winner, the win relay contact drops it out again. If the hold relay is pulled in when you coin the game but before you start pulling the handle, you can then hold. The hold solenoids are dropped out at the end of the game by a mechanical cam, which can also be operated by a solenoid on the Cancel button.

While I'm at it, the old English Sixpence was almost exactly the same size as a US cent, only silver. The English penny is a fraction bigger. Look for evidence that the coin shelf on the hopper has been turned down to take the slightly larger penny. To convert to nickels, you'll have to turn it down some more or buy a new shelf wheel.

When these machines were original, they had UV fluorescent reel strips and a black light over the reels. They looked really cool in a sixties kind of way.

WOW! Thanks for all the info! I'm still working on getting it figured out, I'm not even sure if things are working or not since I didn't know it was a 2 pull machine! That would explain a few things as far the coin registering. I can get it to register but if I hand select it to a payout, the hopper doesn't power up. I checked to make sure it's connected to the 60Hz on the motor, (I also have a brand new motor for it NOS from Bally dated 1979, has a plastic brake on the shaft), I noticed that the existing motor was wired wrong right away. I'm going to test it with 120vAc in a minute to see it it spins or not, checked for voltage coming out of the Beau Plug and saw there are some wires that were changed out (as usual) They have a solid Green out of the 4th pin down left hand side running to the hopper large switch assembly. The switch has new green running to it and an orange leaving and going to the motor. Strange thing is each single wire is running through 2 sets of switches by soldering the strips together on the contacts for both sides of the switch, making the current flow through 2 switch contact in parallel reducing the current across the contacts, making me think that this must be the correct wires to the motor but shouldn't it run to a relay instead of straight to the motor? Or shouldn't it just be controlling a relay that has the working current switched by that relay? I'm not sure how they are getting 120v from above, that should be coming from the AC line input and be controlled by a relay, correct? Maybe they thought it was a 50V motor and that's why it was wired to the 50 Cycles (Hz) Terminals?
  Also a few cut and reconnected wires were found running under the payout amounts along the bottom and had another wire tied into them, I haven't followed them yet. I need to untie the loom first.
  Then there is another set of wires with crimp on speaker style slide on flat connectors colored Purple and White that stop by the motor connections not connected but have their own pins on the beau plug also. They even used the larger sized round pins on the beau plugs due to having all other pins being used already. I thought that the larger ones are for lining the plugs up, but I suppose they could be utilized. I have found at least 4 pins that have wires that are not connected to anything I'll probably see more as I untie the string loom and remove the tape wrapped around groups of wires in some places.
  I'll post some pictures of those controls you mentioned because they are there and make things just that much more confusing.

  Thanks for telling me about the Black light, that makes a lot of sense why the machine is so dark I have a few of those bulbs that will fit, I had to make a new holder for the upper reel light seems it was needed elsewhere. I might use the starter provided with that light assembly and run it off of the voltage supplied to the bulbs that are always on during game play. It's a 6 Volt assembly from a portable Black Light.

  I'll post more hopper pictures and some Black Light shots of the reels.

I figured I'd post a copy of the new wiring diagram that was supplied by bally back in 1977 for the old to new Dollar upgrades included with the kit I got. It won't let me post anymore right now so I;ll try to remember to do it next time.

I dont think that is an 809. They didnt pay off in both directions. This could still be a 809 but if it is, it has the wrong glass on it. 809 to my knowledge, was a 5 coin single line pay machine with multipliers in the head to handle large payouts. Is there a plate under the handle? Let me know... I am curious at least what machine the glass goes to if not that one.
Learning something new everyday.
Dave

Well lookee here, an original Sir Prize unit still in place! (top picture above) No doubt, then, what it was originally. I can talk more about the Sir Prize without being boring.

At the time these machines were made, for the British market, the law limited the payout to one shilling in cash, or five shillings in tokens. The popular coin of the day was the sixpence, which was half a shilling. This machine had a double coin acceptor that would take either a sixpence, for two plays, or a token worth half a sixpence, for one play. Coins went to the cash box, tokens went to the hopper. All payouts were in tokens, and the low value (a quarter-shilling) meant the machine could have a conventional pay table with 18 for bells and 20 for the two top payouts, we'll call them AAA and BBB. Aside from paying out when hit, there were two unlisted combinations, AAB and BBA, that started the Sir Prize bonus. It energized the reset coil on the Sir Prize unit to reset the counter, and switched in an additional payout. There was a second symbol overlaid on many symbols on the reels - a cartoon knight in the case of Sir Prize. Normally these didn't mean anything, but during the Sir Prize bonus, getting a single one of them anywhere on the payline paid 20 tokens. Each play during the bonus stepped up the Sir Prize unit until the counter reached a stop position - usually 10 - when things went back to normal. Other wins paid normally as well, but there were so many knight symbols that it was really hard not to hit at least one, and in most cases you'd get ten straight payoffs of 20 tokens in a row for a total of 200. This was the time jackpot.

I think what you mean by the "hopper large switch assembly" is the win relay. It does use two contacts in parallel to power the motor and the thrower solenoid, both of which are 110V, and it's probably wired up right. "50Hz" is the line frequency, not the voltage - it's 50Hz in Europe, 60Hz here, but it makes no difference except the motor runs a bit faster on 60Hz. The hopper won't start up and pay off unless the win relay operates. The win relay is 50V and is wired through the wiper contacts on the hopper, then the switches at the back of the reels, then contacts on the mechanism that are closed when the game is at rest. If you set up a win and it doesn't pay out, check that the hopper counter wipers are reset (hard to reach solenoid at the back).

You should be able to use a 6 watt black light tube directly in the holders above the window. The fluorescents run off 110V, not 6V, and the tube from your portable black light unit is no different, it should click right in and work.

(Hmm, can't see the magic "attachments" button to place the picture. Let's try a different way)

(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/79837323/SirPrizeFlyer.jpg)

I flew to England in early 70,s   looking for pinball/slots  warehouse were loaded  with mill,s , sega  and jenning  slots and some of those ballys  , we lived in nj at that  time  I didn,t want to buy the ballys  but took mills jenning, sega  at 35 bucks a pop  and some  em pinballs   the job they did over there changing stuff around to fit the laws there was unreal   holes were block off in  indext wheels so it would stop on  some hits   lemons over bars on reel strips , , the stuff was a nightmare ,  a buddy took some ballys  no 2 games were  converted the same way  even if same model , trying to get stuff loaded  to ship was a treat  they start at 9am  break at 1030 am  lunch noon till 1, break at 2 pm starting to get ready to go home by 330pm  done at 4  , 1 load was good for us it was cheap but way too much work

My 1st slot  bought a few months back is a 4 reel 1 coin Liberty Bell Special and it was all rewired incorrectly also. Same thing as this one in that it has no information available to show exact wiring Schematic diagram. Had to rewire the entire Reel wiper boards and numerous other broken or missing wires running to the Hopper. Incorrect payouts due to tape installed incorrectly and they had blocks in the higher payout symbols to boot! Took me about 2 weeks to get everything sorted out and posted my reel wiper wiring diagram here for any others who may need it.
  This one seems to have been heavily modified but it doesn't look like an idiot did it, compared to my Liberty problems.
I have it accepting coins and releasing the handle but it will only allow 1 pull per coin. It will not energize the hopper on any pays. I checked the motor and it works fine. I went through every switch twice and cleaned up the hopper wiper plate and realigned the contact points to follow the correct paths. I checked the return to zero and all wires leading from the plug to the switches and back to the plug. I noticed 2 things are missing that my other machines have: 1 being the Payout Timer, it's gone and there are no trace of any wires that may have been used either, the other is the coin blocking solenoid that moves the flapper part on the side of the coin mech, again no wires are running to that area. I realize that it may use wires coming from the coin mech and the slug switch but I'm pretty sure there is at least 1 independent wire that supplies voltage to it when the max coins are inserted and when the handle is pulled also.
  My problems for the payouts may be due to the timer, My guess is that there should be 2 wires that are connected at that point and the timer breaks the connection if it times out. But does it just stop the 110v going to the hopper motor or does it do it another way? If I locate were those wires are on my beau plugs I can jumper them and see if I get any voltage to my hopper motor. Or is this wrong?

 I attached a copy of the wiring diagram sent from bally on the old Dollar to the new Dollar conversion kit I bought, just in case someone wants to see what other ways the circuit can be wired in a simpler fashion.

I can't seem to be able to post any pictures again? :103- :317-

Is this possibly a 802 machine?
Dave

No, it was born as an 818. A lot of the wiring will be similar, though.

Thanks for the info. Thought the wiring might be. Glad to know for the future.
Dave

The other machine, the quarter pays both ways, is a 1090-33 in what looks like original condition. It's unusual in Bally EMs for having 25-stop reels.