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I'm a novice and just bought a slant top 5x 3 Line 3 Coin .25 cent machine. I know slant tops are not worth anything but for $50 and a chance to learn I jumped at the opportunity.

Okay, I've looked at this and pried and jimmied the front panel and I can't get it off.

I am trying to remove the front panel/door to be able to pull out the board and the hopper. I know it can't be this dang difficult but its got me stumped.

I also have a 62-1 error that I've researched and it says I need a new Reel Prom.

So if anyone has a reel Prom # 7902 and the Game Chip is SP731 and what ever else you think I may need please let me know.

Thanks, Tim

Hi Tim-

I believe there's a pin that you lift up to release the front panel (watch your feet -- the panel can fall out and break some toes).  Open the main "hatch" door, and look near where the armrest was for a round metal pin that you lift up, then the front panel door should swing out from the top of the panel.  ...at least, that's how it is on my bartop machine.  Can anyone confirm this for sure?

I can say with certainty that you do not need to remove the front panel door to access the MPU board tray.  It's on the left side, bottom of the machine.  If you notice the shape of the hopper bowl, you'll see that it's designed in such a way that you can rotate the tray assembly 90 degrees while it's still in the base of the machine, and then just eek it out by lifting it up through the main hatch door.

Before you go and buy another chip, inspect the one that's on the board.  Gently remove it, then re-insert it into the board to make sure it's making a good connection in the socket.  Make sure to match the notch on the edge of the chip with the notch on the socket.  Ensure that all of the legs on the EPROM are correctly inserted in the socket, then try again.

If you still get the 62-1, then it's time to post a "WTB" (Want To Buy) ad in the classifieds section of the site, indicating that you're looking for a SS7902 chip for your S+ machine.  If you don't have one, you'll also want a RAM clear chip (just in case -- typically not needed, but good to have on hand for odd situations).  If you have a bill validator, you'll also want a SET chip to be able to activate it in the future.  The set of the clear and SET chips shouldn't cost more than $10 to $20.

Kevin is close. Open the main door and look at the main door latch ( machine side ), part of that latch will rotate CW and expose the rod that has to be pulled straight up. Just a hint, hold in the front door with your knees as your pulling up the rod. Another hit, damn that front door hurts when it falls on the top of your foot !! You didn't ask but another hint, when you get ready to  open the top glass, reach over and behind the reels and you will find another rod that must be pulled down to open the glass door. ( You can't see it )

Kevin I pretty sure on this type machine the front door must be removed to get the MPU to clear the cabnet.

Okay, I worked on this thing for 2 hours and still no display is coming up. My questions is "could the bad chip(s) cause this or is there a possibility I have a MAJOR PROBLEM?

When I put the board back in securely I noticed that nothing is coming up in the credits or other window. I hit the white reset button and still nothing.

I put a WTB ad up a few moments ago for the chips. http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=28266.0


Thanks to Knagl and Buzz  :244- for helping me figure that front door issue... I'm embarressed to say it took me a good chunck of time to figure it out even after they explained it!

My ad for the chips I need
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=28266.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=28266.0)

I worked on a friend's S+ slant top years ago, and I'm embarrassed to say that I never did figure out how to get the front door off.

That said, I absolutely did manage to get the MPU board out using the rotation trick I mentioned earlier.  The hopper bowl on his slant top had a weird little oddly shaped part near the top, and I believe it was designed that way so you could just barely get the board out without removing the front door.  However, there's no disagreement from me that it would be a heck of a lot easier to access it with the front door open!



Well, hang on a second.  Earlier you said you were getting a 62-1 on the display.  Is that correct, and now you're getting nothing on the display?

First and foremost, make sure the machine is OFF when inserting or removing the MPU board.  If you removed it or inserted it with the power on, it is possible you fried some components on the MPU board or the fixed motherboard ("backplane") inside the machine.

Second, if you didn't do that, please check out this post (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=14163.0) for a possible solution.  The machine shown in that thread is an upright machine, however the slant top machines have a similar power connector between the power supply and the motherboard, and are subject to the same issue.  With the power off, I'd remove and reseat that connector a few times, then try turning the power back on and see if it makes a difference.

One other thing to look at, you had the MPU out so take a look at the pins in the connection between the MPU and the mother board.

I have quire a large data base of SS chips and I don't have anything for a SS 7902,  7901 is as close as I can get. it's a 92.55 % chip.

Gentleman, Thanks for all the help, I think I'm getting closer to figuring this out.

knagl is correct I did state it had a 62-1 error but I spoke incorrectly. Before I bought this machine I asked the guy if it had any error codes and he said it was a 62-1 code that showed up on the display, but I never saw the code.

But when I got it home and unloaded it I tried to fire it up and there was nothing. The reels didn't spin and there was nothing on the displays.

I have taken the board out and reset the chips and they all looked good and put it back together and the same issue, no spin or display.

So I'm guessing the previous owner tried to turn it on without the board and fried it, is that what it sounds like to you? If so what suggestions do you have and what should I expect to pay for a new board?

Thanks again

Not necessarily.  In fact, now more than ever I'd suspect the power connector I referenced in the last paragraph of my Reply #4 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=28251.msg215302#msg215302) above.  Please follow the link I mentioned in that post to inspect the power connection harness in question, and more than likely it will bring your machine back to life.  If nothing else, it will get you closer to getting the machine fully functional.

Thanks, I will check that when I get home this evening.

I read through the different links and they all say the connector can be purchased from a vendor listed above but there is no vendors listed.

What exactly is the piece called that I may need, and who may have it?

Thanks

Tim

I would call it the power cable that goes from the power supply to the mother board.

Now if there is a weak link in a S+, it's this power cable. Pictured below is a fix I do to them. It may not be the easiest way but when done it's good for life. I would suggest cutting one wire at a time from the mother board plug, slide the shrink tube onto the wire and then solder the wire to the mother board. ( One wire at a time you can't get them mixed up )

Buzz, is there a premade cable I could buy? If so who, where should I look.

I'm not really good with a solder gun and lack confidence to even attempt such a feat.

I can't say how much I appreciate your help and knowledge.

Tim

Tim, start by inspecting the connector and inserting and removing it a half dozen times.  Just that action will scrape off enough of the crap that it will start working again, at least for a while.  Then we can get your errors cleared and get the machine up and running.  At some point, you can then choose to replace that harness.  Honestly, though, just the action of removing and re-inserting the plug a few times should be enough to bring it back to life for a while.

Ok, I did what you said and yes there is a spot that has burned. See attached.

I removed and reset several times and it still won't work. I will try some more but I may need some additional thoughts.

With the plug in place, the MPU board in place, and the power turned on, are the reels "stiff", or are they as free-spinning as they are with the power off?

Also, are you able to test the fuses with a meter to ensure none of them happened to blow?  Remove, test, and replace them one at a time as they may be different voltage fuses (I can't remember off the top of my head).

Yes, the reels with the power on are stiff.

I looked at the fuses, looked fine, but have not tested them. I will test them this evening or in the morning.

Thanks for all your help

Tim