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I have a Game Maker & I get a blue screen with "MAINS SAFERAM SIGNATURE CORRURPTED. A SAFERAM CLEAR IS REQUIRED" I reset dip #8, tried 7&8, tried 6,7& 8, tried 1thru8, nothing seems to work? Someone said check your voltage in a thread I read, how do i do that? Thank you so much for your help. Fishman

The first thing to do is to check your battery; there is a good chance that it's dead. The battery is in the bottom left corner of the MPU board. It should be 3.6 volts or more. If it's lower than 3.5v I would replace it. If it's less than 3.3 it's dead as far as the machine is concerned.

Once you've got a good battery installed, you will need a clear chip to do a full saferam clear. You can buy one from one of our vendors. The clear chip needs to be inserted into P10 (you remove the game chip that is there). You then turn on SW1 Dip switches 7 and 8, insert the board and power up the machine. There are several settings to go through, and they vary depending on your Mains. If you search the posts here in the Bally board you will find instructions and help with these. Once all of the initial settings are competed, you power down, replace the clear chip with the game chip in P10 and turn off DIP switches 7 & 8.

I concur, check your battery voltage first. Attached is the saferam clear procedure for the Gamemaker.

 Dan (tacman)

Thank you I will check. Where do I get a new battery? What is the model or part number? Do I just unsolder the old one & put in the new one? Thank you, sorry I don't know anything about this machine. Fishman

  The battery number is 14250 3.6 volt   The battery is soldered to the board   I like to cut the wires that go from the battery to the board as close to the battery as possible  pre solder both ends of the new battery.  Most times solder will not stick to the battery unless you use flux. once the new battery has solder just hold it close to the old wires and heat the battery with the iron.  doing it this way you never put any heat close to the board and less chance of damage

  If you would finish filling out your profile, I might live just down the street from you and would gladly help you with the battery.  PM me with your address and I will send you a battery   Buzz

fishman, if you have a Batteries Plus by you they have the battery and will attach the leads as well. My soldering skills need improvement, so I just have them do it. Too much heat will damage the battery so I do not take the chance.

 Dan (tacman)

Also make sure your battery is enabled  jumper is located along side battery

Great website. I didn't even have to bother anyone and found my answer on how to do the saferam clear on my Game Maker.
But after the clear, I don't think the machine recognizes the bill validator and I don't know what to do next.
Please help.
Thanks again, everyone.

Not at home right now, but you will have to a full clear and then a setup page should come up. This is where you will choose machine options, Jurisdiction (pick #1), machine type, door type, coin comparitor, bill validator, etc. If these options are locked out, you may need to get new Mains eproms and possibly Graphics eproms (because of the Mains change).

 Dan (tacman)

I went thru that list and did all the basic functions that were provided in that link you posted. It started out with jurisdiction #1 and so on. I went down the list. Maybe I put something in wrong for the bill validator. It actually said "bill acceptor and I put in "JCM WBA"

Are you sure that you have a WBA in your machine? If you have a Gamemaker v7000 you might have a JCM DBV.
Just something to check. :71-

I have no idea which one I have. It's dated 1996. How do I check it?
That's probably a stupid question but I didn't even know what the letters stood for.

 :211-  Inside and out.

Stat :31-

The side plate is scratched up but this should be close
serial V96T104704
model VMPLON106
date 11/96
can't read EVT7K ?

I can't tell what Mains you have from the pictures that you posted, but that is a JCM DBV, not a WBA.

You have a v7000

The setup options differ slightly and come up in a different order depending the Mains you have installed, but these are the basic settings for your machine:


* When using the 22 Mains, the game will come up in demo mode until you enter a serial number for the machine in the settings menu (after the initial setup). You can enter any bogus SN, (all 1's) and that will take the machine out of demo mode.


Hope this helps.

Stat :31-

If you have a 17" GM its probably a JCM WBA if its a 13" then more than likely its a JCM DBV.

 Dan (tacman)

Ooops, didn't read all the posts. Stats right on the money, thats a JCM DBV.

I tried the JCM DBV and it didn't work.
I don't get any kind of a demo mode or asking for a serial number.
There are 2 other settings that come up;
residual credit mode. I put, no gamble and no atten pay
win evaluation. I put, Legacy
I also tried pushing the little reset button and powering the machine on and off.

[qute author=StatFreak link=topic=3134.msg75083#msg75083 date=1279236811]
I can't tell what Mains you have from the pictures that you posted, but that is a JCM DBV, not a WBA.

You have a v7000

The setup options differ slightly and come up in a different order depending the Mains you have installed, but these are the basic settings for your machine:


* When using the 22 Mains, the game will come up in demo mode until you enter a serial number for the machine in the settings menu (after the initial setup). You can enter any bogus SN, (all 1's) and that will take the machine out of demo mode.


Hope this helps.

Stat :31-

[/quote]

DBV is the correct setting. You may have other issues. You have tokenized Mains. Either 20T or 24. I know this because you are being offered the residual credit option. Personally, I turn on all three to give me the choice while playing, but that's just me. With no gamble and no attendant pay, it will force you to play off any partial credits left on the machine.

Legacy is the better choice for progressive payouts, but it won't affect your ability to use the machine or the DBV.

I have to ask how you set up the denomination and the tokenization options. It's possible that you did something that would disable the DBV. If not, then we'll have to check your credit, hopper, and other limits. If they are all correct, then there is something else wrong with your dbv.


Just as an aside, you would not "get" a request for the serial number if you had those Mains. You would have to go into the correct menu listing in the regular menus after completing the setup and input it in order to get out of demo mode, which would come up by default. But you don't have 22 Mains.

I also noticed that you don't have a game in P6. You might want to pick up something that you like to fill out the set.

Budman,  :172-  :204-

Stat :31-

I noticed when the game menu came up, there was no game listed for #6. Nice catch.
I don't remember exactly about tokens but I chose the money (5 cents) instead of tokens.
The bill validator was working fine before the battery went dead.
The only thing I remember about bill validators and my slot machine was that the bv wasn't recognized after the clear chip and I had to put in a code 65-1 or something to get it to work.
I know it's something I'm doing wrong, just not sure what to say. 

That would refer to an IGT S+, which is a completely different animal. Did you get my email?

Got it. Thanks!

Let me know how it goes. :71-

SF :31-

Good news and bad news
Bad news is the coin acceptor isn't working but the bv is.
Good news is that I got the machine working. My friend has the exact same machine but has the pulse optics for the door so that's what I was setting my "door type" to instead of "mechanical".  :30-
You were correct when the picture showed the bv had no errors and the printer as none. But the "red block" on the door said it was open. Sometimes it would show the red block on the lower part by the hopper or when you remove bills from the side compartment. The only thing you have to do is push the reset button each time and it's good to go.
I wonder if I selected "no door" that I wouldn't have to reset it. :103-

Check the micro-switches below the cash can and above the lock cam. You can see the micro-switch above the cash door lock cam by looking down over the top of the bill transport mech. The switch is to the right and it has a large spring steel lever attached that is pushed up by the lock cam.

I would make sure that the switches are adjusted properly, i.e., make sure that they operate fully when you remove/install the can and open/close the cash door.

The cam switch has a grey wire on the top tab, and the back tabs should have a yellow wire on the top and an orange wire on the bottom.
The cash can switch is mounted "upside down", and the tab on the bottom of the switch should have a green wire, and the back tabs should be red (bottom) and blue (top).

One of the tabs on each switch will be common, and one should be NC and the other NO. You might want to check the switches for proper operation with a multimeter. I would also trace the wires and make sure that they are well connected to the backplane.

So, what Mains and Graphics chip versions do you have?

I did a few more checks but I think I'm still programming something wrong after the clear chip. The coin slot worked fine before the battery went dead. All the connections look good. It's nice to have the bv working instead of putting nickels into the slot, I would just like to find out what I'm doing wrong for next time. Hate to keep bothering you for something I'm messing up.
Looks like 24 mains?
 

One thing: your graphics chips are too old.

If they work with the games that you currently have installed, then you can leave them alone for now, but you will have issues with them if you ever start trying to install different games. At some point, you should get a newer set of graphics chips from one of our vendors.

I sent you a pm.

Still can't get the coin validator to work. If i unplug the comparator and plug it back in, the validator makes a noise like a coin dropping through. I tried putting in a different coin in the validator slot. If the door is open, the coin will fall through as if going into the hopper. With the door closed, the coin falls into the payout tray. Nothing changes with pushing the door button other than the switch does work. I can now open and close doors and not have to reset anything.
Stumped

Got it working.  :244-
Did another clear and changed to tokenization on coin acceptor and added more denominations according to StatFreak.
Game is more fun to play.
Thanks to everyone once again, especially Statfreak.  :131-