New Life Games Tech Forums

reposted from old NLG site...

Ok a good way to add a computer power supply to a Wms 40x
slot machine. Since the original lower Wms power supply is very problematic,
this allows a cheap "plug and play" computer power supply to be implemented
quickly and without hassle. This design allows easy addition/removal of a computer P.S.
to the existing Wms harness. If this new computer P.S. dies, within 2 minutes you
can install another. These computer power supplies are inexpensive and
easy to get online or at any local computer store. With this mod,
if you get the original Wms P.S. working,
the added Computer P.S. can be removed quickly (with only the added plug
to the original harness being left behind).

I modified the original Wms cable (#H-17965-0x) going from the
large 24 pin Wms power supply to the Wms back panel board.
Splicing in wires, and adding a connector for the new computer P.S.

The new computer power supply will be replacing the
following voltages (originally supplied by the Wms switching
power supply). Any 250 watt or higher ATX power supply
should be able to supply this power. I'm using the "old style"
ATX with the 20 pin main connector. (The newer 24 pin
ATX power supply can be used too, just need to cut off
four pins. But why do that, just get the original ATX style
power supply.)

Power needed:
+5 vdc at 10 amps
+12 vdc at 5 amps
-12 vdc at 1 amp

Parts Needed:
(1) Molex connector housing#39-01-2201 (Mouser.com #538-39-01-2201)
(8) Molex connector pins #39-00-0041 (Mouser.com #538-39-00-0041)
(2) 1ft red wire
(2) 1ft black wire
(1) 1ft blue wire
(1) 1ft yellow wire
(1) 4" piece of green wire
(1) ATX Computer Power Supply (at least 250 watts or higher)
(1) foot 1/4" heat shrink tubing
Orignal H-17965 harness in Wms model 40x machines
Molex crimping tool (for adding the new pins)

I've been buying power supplies from Geeks.com and
like this one for $12. It's 400 watt and has two 12 volt
supplies (20amp and 12amp). This works great especially
if you run the upper dot power supply off this ATX power
supply too (the upper and lower 12 volts are segregated
with this power supply, one off the main 20 pin connector,
and one off the 4 pin peripheral connectors, which is kind of cool.)
http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=AGS400&cat=PWR (http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=AGS400&cat=PWR)

As described above, remove the original lower power supply
form the slot. Then open up the existing original Wms power
supply and remove the two .156" modex connectors from
the switching power supply. Replace the cover and re-mount
the original Wms power supply.

(http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/wms/ps1.jpg)

Using a soldering iron splice in two new red wires to the existing
Wms harness' red wire going from the power supply to the
back panel. Use heat shrink tubing for a clean insulated job.
This is +5 volts.

Using a soldering iron splice in two new black wires to the existing
Wms harness' black/gry wire going from the power supply to the
back panel. I use the two black/gray wires that are right next
to the three red wires (see pic below.) 
Use heat shrink tubing for a clean insulated job.
This is ground.

Using a soldering iron splice in one new yellow wire to the existing
Wms harness' yellow wire going from the power supply to the
back panel. Use heat shrink tubing for a clean insulated job.
This is +12 volts.

Using a soldering iron splice in one new blue wire to the existing
Wms harness' blue wire going from the power supply to the
back panel. Use heat shrink tubing for a clean insulated job.
This is -12 volts.

(http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/wms/ps2.jpg)

Now crimp new 39-00-0041 male Molex pins to the ends of
my new wires, and insert them into the 39-01-2201 connector.
This connector will mate to the new power supply. Be careful
crimping the pins, they are very easy to damage.

In addition, crimp pins to both ends of the green 4" piece of wire.
This goes into the new plug as the green "power-on" to ground
jumper (which allows the power supply to turn on without software
control).

(http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/wms/ps3.jpg)

Install the new computer power supply inside the slot. Plug the
120v computer P.S. into the original Wms power supply (use the white
120v plugs near in the back of the power supply.

Mount the new power supply in the corner below/behind the
bill acceptor. Or maybe below the original power supply
(haven't tried that position yet.)

That's it!

(http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/wms/ps4.jpg)

(http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/wms/ps5.jpg)

(http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/wms/ps6.jpg)

Testing your new Computer Power supply.
----------------------------------

After making the above cable modifications, i like to
test the new rig. Unfortunately you really can't do this
outside of the slot (because the transformer supplies
voltage to the Wms power supply, and the new computer
power supply wants a "load").

So this is what i do:
Remove the I/O board and PCBA processor board
from the game, and set aside. Now i have a SMOKED
I/O board that i install. The board is already broken,
but the LEDs work. So with my broken I/O board
installed (and no processor board), i power up the
rig. All five LEDs should be ON. (the left side Fail LED
may or may not be on, but it does not matter.)

Now use a DMM and check the voltages coming out
of the Wms power supply 24 pin plug:

Pin 1,2 (blk/gray) = Gnd
Pin 3,4,5 (red) = +5 volts
Pin 6,7 (gray) = +20 volts
Pin 8 (blk/white) = -1 volts (sense, voltage varies, ignore)
Pin 9 (red/white) = +.5 volts (sense, voltage varies, ignore)
Pin 10 (blue) = -12 volts
Pin 11 (yellow) = +12 volts
Pin 12 (orange) = +5 volts
....
Pin 13-24 (blk/gray) = Gnd (entire bottom row)

Make sure all those voltages are good.
If you are missing +5, -12, or +12, then you did
something wrong with the new wiring (or your
new computer power supply is dead). Note the
20 volts is supplied by the original Wms power
supply (it is unregulated, goes through a bridge
rectifier, filter caps, and a fuse). If that is missing
you will need to check the bridge rectifier/fuse inside
the original Wms power supply box.

If the voltages are good, remove the test I/O board,
and install the two "good" boards.
And you're off and running!

------------
I tried some 200 watt power supplies, they seemed to work fine.
But I would still say that 250 watts is probably the lowest you
should go.

Picture of installed computer power supply below. Note I removed
the black vent sheild below the handle. The existing screws make
nice standoffs to hold the new computer power supply in place.

(http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/wms/ps7.jpg)

Computer power supply running in Perfect Match:
(http://www.pinrepair.com/arcade/wmspm1.jpg)

-------------------


Yea it *looks* like there's tons of room with the hopper removed.
but after the hopper is installed, wow, there's like nothing left!
Might be room on the left back side (below the original P.S.)
Picture below...

(http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/wms/ps8.jpg)

-------------------------

ATX Computer power supplies with 20 pin connectors are starting
to go away, replaced by ATX supplies with 24 pin connectors. These
can still be used, just the last 4 pins need to be cut off to fit the
20 pin connector used in the pictures above. (Alternatively you could
just by a 24 pin mating connector. But in my case I already had a
supply of 20 pin mating connectors to use.)

On the 24 pin computer power supplies, just use a bandsaw and
slice off the last 4 pins of the 24 pin connector. If you are careful,
there's no damage to the connector. See the picture below.

(http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/wms/ps10.jpg)

Just wanting to make sure  since I do not have a spare IO board :89-  .
Using a soldering iron splice in two new red wires to the existing
Wms harness' red wire going from the power supply to the
back panel. Use heat shrink tubing for a clean insulated job.
This is +5 volts.
Using a soldering iron splice in two new black wires to the existing
Wms harness' red wire going from the power supply to the
back panel. Use heat shrink tubing for a clean insulated job.
This is ground.

Is that suppose to be Black to red???  EDIT: NO, red to red, black to black.  There was a typo which has been fixed in the original post and it now reads correctly.

Everthing else is done,just waiting on this to make sure  :103-

Hi Randy,
   I think the picture shows the correct way which would be red to red, black to black(brown in this case.),  I think he copied his first paragraph, and forgot to change the colour. Unless I'm reading this wrong?

Thanks,
Wayne

I was thinking that,but wanted to make sure. Thanks

Aye....I'm a bit confused as it shows 3 red wires on the williams power supply connector, but the instructions say only use two.  If I only use two, which two?  Basically the old power supply connector shows 3ea. Red Wires with a +5voltages designated by the blue arrow, but the New Power Supply connector only has 2ea. Red Wires going into it.

that's where I'm stumped.  I've got all the gear and that's when I started looking closely at these instructions.  Can anyone help out an old Pinball guy?

Thanks

All the red wires gang together. it doesn't mater
which ones you use.

So do I cut all 3 red wires and connect them altogether?  Or just cut one and run two wires off of it?

(http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/wms/ps5.jpg)

It does show in the picture. Connect all as Clay stated.

W

Okay thanks.  Looking at it now I guess you can see that the Black wires are done like that but it's little difficult to see with the red ones.  So to be clear, I'm cutting all three red wires that go from connector to connector, and soldering them all together with two more that go in the new connector?  No need to respond unless I'm wrong.

Just trying to do it right.  The wife doesn't like it when smoke comes out of my games........

I don't tink Clay cut the wires, it looks like he just tapped/splicedthem in.  just bare a section of the wires and solder togeter.


thanks and good luck,
Wayne

Spliced them or it?  That's my question.  It's just not really specific.  There are 3 red wires going from each connector.  Does he splice into one of them and add two wires for the new connector?  Or splice all 3 existing together and add 2 new wires.  This is where I'm confused.

basically all the wires go the same, in that they go from the
original left side (power supply) connector to the right side
(back plane) connector. What you're doing is tying (splicing) the
new computer power supply into these wires. This is clear from
the picture but i'l put it in words too...

The way i did this was to cut the wires in the center of the length,
then twist the cut wire groups together (assuming more than 1 wire
was cut, which is the case on red and black wires.) Then
I twist the other side of the cut wire group together, but also
add in a length of the same color wire (which will go to the new computer
power supply.)

Once this is done the two twisted wire pairs are mated together
and soldered. Heat shrink tubing is slide over the junction and
"shrunk" to insulate it. There's a few different ways to do this,
but that's how i did it, and it's a pretty clean look.

Remember the original power supply board is removed inside
the left wall box, so the original Wms power supply is no longer
in the picture, The new power supply is just spliced into the "middle"
of the wiring. So what you are doing is basically maintaining
a somewhat original "look" (the original left wall Wms power supply
box looks unmodified), but you're splicing in a new computer
power supply (which is cheap and easy to replace) in the middle of the harness.

(http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/wms/ps5.jpg)

K+ Clay - thanks for helping JT!   :3- :3- :3-

I'm so sorry, and I feel so stooopid for belaying this question.  Let me see if I can explain my dilemma.  There are 3 wires that go from the connector on the old power supply to the connector that goes to the backside board.  These wires run independent of each other.  It would seem to me that I would cut one of the 3 wires and add another red wire to that cut that now goes to the new connector.  And do the same for another red wire (independent of each other), there by giving me two red wires to the new connector and not changing the existing configuration except for adding 1 spliced wire to 1 existing red wire.

But to me it sounds like you are cutting all 3 red wires, and adding 2 additional for the new connector and splicing them ALL together in one big heap?  So essentially you have 8 wires coming together at the middle point (3 going to the old PS, 3 going to the board, and 2 new going to the new connector)?

That's what I need clarity on and again, sorry for being so overbearing on this.

Thanks again for your help!

I think I get it.  Cut all three red wires and take the 6 ends from these cuts and add 2 more ends for the new cables.  1 'BIG' clump of all the red wires tied in together?

Thanks again!

I think so.  I think that's what Clay was saying here (my underlining):

Yah this is where I need clarification.  If it simply said "all the red wires gang together", I would have been fine.  But the part where it says "it doesn't matter which ones you use" makes it sound like you can pick ANY of them, which, if they did all gang together, you wouldn't have to PICK.

I just wanna make sure I'm clear before I start this.  I've got all the parts sitting on my table and am ready to go but wanna make absolutely sure so I don't smoke a board in the slot.

Thanks again.

"Ganging" them all together would be fine.
W

OK did it.  The machine boots and tells me coinJ so I'm also thinking I have to replace the board on the door.  However, my reels spin slow on bootup, then haul ass during a play.  Also don't have any sound.

Any ideas?

BTW I did not gang them, I just used one red wire for each red wire connector

You previously had the CoinJ issue, right?  We decided that your coin optics board needs to be replaced, right?  (Correct me if I'm wrong, and I'm too tired to dig through the other threads to see if it was you or not.)

Slow reel rotation on bootup, and faster during gameplay is normal.  There are two speed settings (medium and fast, if memory serves) -- I'd suggest setting them for the slower spin speed to help preserve your reel baskets.  The manual explains how to set the spin speed.

You have absolutely no sound at all?  Do you get a "bong" at startup?  Did you ever have sound before?  You do have the coin tray in place, right?  The speaker is in the coin tray, and there's a connector that gets plugged in when you place the coin tray in place.  Check both sides of that connector (in the machine and in the coin tray) to make sure it's connecting properly and making a good solid connection.

Yes on almost everything.  It is the optics board, no doubt.  I've got it unplugged and am running in demo mode successfully so no coins are needed.  Yes slow reel at boot, fast at play, but the settings are set to slow...hmmmmm?  No bong at startup but no coin tray either for testing.  Didn't know the coin tray had the speaker.  Explains everything.  Computer Power supply is doing the trick.  All 5 red lights on mobo are lit.  Thanks again for all your help!

Here's the latest.  I installed the PS successfully.  I did use 1 red wire to 1 red wire and did NOT gang them together.  Once I put the hopper back in and the coin tray, the system fired up correctly, bonged and the wheels are running at the proper speed.  There is NO WAY I could have done this without everyones help on this board.  I will need to order an optics board, but that an easy replacement and I don't need it when running in demo mode.

Mucho Cudos to you all!!!!!

There is a REASON all the red wires are ganged together!
We didn't tell you that because we're bored. Now you
are supplying the entire 5 volts through ONE WIRE. You're
chances of setting the game on fire (or at minimum melting
the wire) have now increased exponentially.

OK great.  Thanks, I can fix it easily and have the system unplugged.  So to be clear I'm going to have 8 red wires ganged together?  3 from each of the ends of the existing connectors (to total 6) and 2 to the new connector that goes to the computer power supply?

I just wasn't 100% sure because the response said "Ganging" them all together would be fine."  Not "this is the way it MUST be done"

Thanks again and appreciate your response.

CFH,

I want to take the time to give you a special THANKS for your post re: Wms 400 lower power supply fix.
I have 2, a Stampede & a Power 7's. I just fixed the Stampede after being down for 3 months and tomorrow I'm gona fix the Power 7's that's been down for over 4 years. You du man!

Thanks again   :3- :3- :3- :3- :3-