New Life Games Tech Forums

So, I was working on a machine with the code 61 error, got it corrected and used the set chip to reset all the denoms that the machine originally took and now the bill validater is only taking $1 and nothing else. Isn't the denom regcognition done in the bill validate and not through the board? It's the older series bill validater..not a 200. Should I recheck my settings on the motherboard? It takes quarters fine and gives the correct amount of credits for them, as well as, the $1. I really think my issue lies in the validater itself. But, I'm new to these machines and don't completely know that answer, that's why I'm here, to learn from the best. Anybody have any ideas?
Thanks,
Steve

you may be bumping your validator credit limit, what SP are you using?

Hi Mdpokersupply,

It might help if you could clarify some questions.
Was the validator working correctly prior to the 61 error and your use of the set chip?
Why did you need to use the set chip? (A 61 error can generally be cleared without one.)
What SP chip (game chip) do you have in the machine?
If it was working beforehand, did you change any of dip switches on the validator?
Can you look for a sticker on the top of the dbv head or elsewhere and tell us what make and model you have in the machine? (If it's not a dbv200, it's most likely a dbv145, but it's never productive to assume anything.)

<ADD> Brianzz, you beat me to the punch while I was typing. :96-

I'll try to answer the best I can since I'm new
1. The validator was working correctly prior to the 61 error and set chip (from what I'm told-this is a customers machine)
2. This is an older machine and could not clear the 61 error any other way (we tried all the normal ways to clear the error)
3. I'll see if I can get the SP tonight off the game (I assume that will be printed on the game chip?)
4. I didn't touch any of the dipswitchs, but I'm going to ask my customer if he touched any trying to make it work.
5. I'm almost 100 positive it's a DBV-145, but I'll find out for sure tonight and post back my findings.

Also, can you explain this phrase a little more to me "you may be bumping your validator credit limit" I'm a newbie to the terminology...:-)

Thanks for the quick responses!

Look around in the "Rick's FAQ Files" to see to to get your chip numbers....
There's a lotta stuff in that FAQ's that'll help ya! :89-
When you get the numbers, post back to us and we'll help you!

Can you direct me to the "Rick's FAQ Files" thread?

It's right on top here on the page here on the right hand side under the vendors' listings ^^^^^>>>

                                                                                             Scroll up^^

I copied the link here>>
http://www.newlifegames.net/faq1/ (http://www.newlifegames.net/faq1/)

This website does have a lotta stuff that people miss completely...lol

duuuhhhh, thanks..I must be going blind...lol

This setting is option 7  5 on most chips

Thanks for the info, it that setup done with the set chip installed? Or, is there some other way of doing it? It funny that the guy says if he moves the validator to another machine it will take $20's and if he puts it back in that machine it only takes $1's. I thought mainboard had nothing to do with what the bill acceptor will take and only looked for a specific signal from the validator to know how many credits to put up. Am I wrong in assuming that?
Steve

There is also two types of IGT games. Some are type 23 and others are 24....(maybe thats 22/23 can't remember exactly).
Anyways there are some dip switch settings on the side of the validator that change the "ID" from one to the other.
One of the symptoms of having the wrong type is ONLY the acceptance of $1's

I know for a fact that the one machine that won't read anything but a $1 is using the SP772 chipset with checksum F6D4 (printed on the chip).

Shouldn't this be a problem with the DBV-145 chip version?
The newer bills don't work on most DBV-145 chips.
Find an older $5, $10, or $20 bill and try it.

Yea, we've tried older and still not working correctly. I'm going to go back on Monday and play around a little more with the machines. I'm hoping to get his one back up completely and tackle this one that is now only accepting $1, when before it took the older 5,10, and 20's.
Steve

On a 1271 the PSR reads.......
FEATURES AND CAPABILITIES
Bill Acceptor   Uses ID-023.  Acceptable bill denominations are $1, $5, $10, $20, $50, and $100.  If the bill pay mode selection is disabled, all inserted bills are paid from the hopper, regardless of the game credit type.  If the bill pay mode selection is enabled, the operator can specify in self test how inserted bills are paid.  Use the set chip to enable/disable the bill pay mode selection.


The PSR for the 772 does not include any ID-0?? info.

Try changing the type on the bill validator. You have nothing to lose.

Thanks, where can I find information on the chipset (772) that's in the machine? Is there some database that I can access to find out the information like you did?

Check your email Mdpoker! :89-
There's a little present for ya!

thanks!!

I Believe you are correct with the assumption that the Main board has nothing to due with what types of bills the validator will accept.
You should verify what the customer said about the same validator taking 20's in another machine. Be sure and use the same bill when testing the validator in each machine.
I would also try cleaning the optics on the validator head.

Well, the machine was up and running...taking 1,5,10 and 20's. Now all of a sudden (after a week of working fine) it locks up and starts adding credits up on the credit window and you can't stop it. I've tried unplugging it, reseating board....still acts up. I went to use the clear chip in it to see if that would allow me to do anything and now it's not responding at all. It will get to the first part of the clear chip process, but when I go to hit the test switch and bring it to 61-1 it does nothing. Does this sound like a bad mainboard or something? These machines can't possibly be this hard to work on and it has to be because I'm just green with these types of machines (not electornics-16yrs as a electronic tech), so...am I crazy?? lol..any help is appreciated.

I think it is a mainboard or eprom issue. Do you have a spare board?

Are you saying you cannot get past 61-1?

Could be a mis-aligned cabinet-side door optic receiver?

Yes, that's correct...it there a way to bypass the optic? Just jumper the wire for the optics maybe? I don't have any spares, but I'm looking for a S+ mainboard to buy for one.

No such thing as bypassing the optics, it's an IR LED and an IR phototransistor like these:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049723 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049723)

The output of the emitter is pulsed and the receiver needs to see those synced pulses in order for the machine to see the door closed.

the good news is you can use those parts to replace bad door optics, and I have built an extended harness using these so I can operate the machine with the door open for testing purposes. I use heat shrink tubing to hole the emitter and phototransistor in alignment.

Thanks for the info, I'll just make the bypass using shrink tubing like you did and that should help me with the troubleshooting.

Hello all!

Now - I haven't owned a S+ for awhile, but I broke the wire off my emitter once and used the instructions below to bypass the door optics with just a wire until I could get a replacement.  Now I make no promises this will work or won't do any damage if used long term - but it worked for me.  I did not write these instructions and I no longer have a S+ to try them again - so your mileage may vary.....

If someone tests or tries this - let us know what you find....

Good luck!

Dan #2

This procedure allows you to completely bypass the S+ door optics. Please DO NOT use this procedure UNLESS it is absolutely necessary to get your machine working. THIS IS FOR MEDIUM TO ADVANCED SLOT MACHINE OWNERS- If you are NOT comfortable making this modification then STOP NOW!

• Open the machines main door and then remove the coin tray by grasping both sides of the tray and lifting up and then out towards you.
• Remove the hopper assembly. This will give you a clear access view of the back of the machine and the wire harnesses that are plugged into the processor board and bottom main board.
• At the back of the machine you will see 4 clusters of wires (Harnesses) each plugged in separately to the topside of the processor board. These plugs are white. You need to look for the largest of the 4 plugs. It will be located the 2nd one to the right counting from the very left side of the machine.
Find the black and purple striped colored wire that is located within that cluster of wires (Largest plug, 2nd connection from the left)

Once you have located the black & Purple wire you need to cut it a few inches ABOVE the white connector plug so that you can strip the insulation back to expose the bare wires on the connection side.

<<<< NOTE >>>>>
I did not splice this wire - I just used a straightened paper clip pushed into the top of the Molex plug along with the wire still in there...hard to explain - but worked well....

Now you will need a separate piece of wire that is about 2 feet long in order to make a splice connection between the optic sensors. Strip both ends of insulation to expose the bare wires on each end, then twist one end onto the black & Purple wire that you stripped previously.

The other end of this splice wire will connect to the RED Colored wire of the optic door sensor.

This will complete the bypass procedure for the IGT S+ Door Optics Sensor circuit and should allow the game to be reset and you should be able to play the machine. Keep in mind that this procedure should only be used as a TEMPORARY means of resetting the machine allowing game play however this circuit will need to be disconnected momentarily in order to clear any error conditions on the machine such as a hopper fill or coin jam. You can optionally install a more permanent fix by using a "normally open" switch that is available in the aftermarket from electronics retail stores such as Radio Shack, Fry’s Electronics Etc: