New Life Games Tech Forums

Hiya,
Does anyone know what components to change on S+ optics?
Or to perform simple board diagnostics?

All these coin-in optic boards either won't register a credit,
cause the reels to spin and /or bring up the dreaded code "21".

My only tools are a benchtop DC adjustable power supply, an analog multimeter and a soldering station.
I don't have fancy scopes or anything like that.

Mark:   you can test these in the machine using the first three tests  of the inputs test.  Reassemble the optic using the metal frame along with a black coin in optic guide. then cut a piece of cardboard about 1/4 inch by six inches. when you call up that test  10-0   when you pass the cardboard thru the optic you shoild see the 0 change to a 1 telling you that optic is good, advance to 11-0  do the same and also press the little button down in the lower left cornor and it should produce the same results, finally advance to test 12-0  and run the cardboard thru again and see the 0 change to a 1. this will test all the optics and let you know if they are good.  If all the optics are good and it still won't work, I usually remove Q-2 on some models or Q 4 on others and that will fix them.  I also have a schematic for the above, will have to dig it out.   Good Luck.

Jim

thanks Jim,
I will try these ideas...
The schematics might help me figure out which pins to power up as well so I could test the optics on the bench...
if not, I could always test them in the young frankenstein I have...

I found out that a few of the optical diodes were burned out...

I found this .pdf file and decided to go pick some up at mouser.com>>>

Jim,
Do you mean this little chip at the Q2 position on the boards?
Do I just cut the micro component off?
I could apply some heat and unsolder it but wouldn't it leave an "open" circuit on the board?
See attached picture and circled component...
Click on the picture to make it larger if needed>>>

Is that something you could fix Stout?

Mark     that's the one    we would always remove this and it allows you to use a different acceptor ( other than the coin comparator).  Any time you see a electronic component that is indicated by a "Q"it means it is a transistor of some type. In this case ,it is a general purpose transistor. The photo diodes that you found bad are actually transistors ,thus the "Q" designation on the logic board. They are referred to as Phototranistors, part # QSD733.  Q-2 is a npn MMBT3904,SOT23.   the three emitter devices on the opposing board are IR (infrared) optic emitters.DS1-3. these send a IR beam to the phototransistors thru the holes on the black detector. When the beam is broken by a coin passing thru the coin optic detector , it then establishes a credit on the machine,basically. Their part # is QED523.

Hope this helps 

Jim

Yes I usually take a small pair of cutting dikes and break it off.

I'm trying Munch!...

I have like about 15-20 of these coin-in optic boards that all have problems.
My main problem is- there's several different board versions...

IGT continually updated the boards and let different sub-divisions make them...
some boards were made in Nevada, but others are (were) put together in Mexico.

I do not have all the matching board schematics for all the different versions.
I have like 3 board schematic sheets for like 12 different board versions...Arghhh!

There were so many versions and component changes...
This is not an easy task... :60-
Basically, they all have pretty much the same problems -
 They won't "tell" the MPU a coin fell through between the eyes!!! :37-
So, a lot of coins get "eaten up" by the machine and that just pisses me off!  :37-

But you know me, I just keep plugging away until I get all the schematics I can to solve this... :71-

Now, If I could only get one board to actually work..... :25- :72-

Oh, thanks Jim...! :3-

I want to try and repair these though so that will work with my existing 16D coin comparitors.
I think because if I try to use a different CC on my S+,
the MPU will sense that it's missing a CC and will go into a "21" error code...

Could I just pick up a bunch of new components (The Q2 npn MMBT3904,SOT23) and solder them in?

As far as a pair of dikes...LOL ... I prefer blondes... :5-

You can still use the CC-16  even with  Q-2 removed.    It will work as it should and you will never know the difference.  And if the boards pass those three tests (optics tests) and you have intermittent coin acceptance   cut off Q-2 and I know it will count every coin every time------provided you have the correct coin encoder installed for the right size coin.  Example ; 50 cent encoder installed and you are using quarters, you will probably miss one out of every 10 to 15 coins inserted .

Jim

Oh...thank you so much Jim!!!! :89- :89- :89- :89- :89-

Your answers are a tremendous help to me! :136-

Tomorrow, I'm gonna go look for a pair of dikes!!!! :96-

Please keep us updated!   I find it very exciting to fix circuit boards. 

So,
I went in this morning but couldn't find any dikes....LOL...
however, I did find an exacto knife and removed the Q2 component with it.
I installed what I thought for 2 years, a faulty coin-in board back into the S+...
Wouldn't you know it...it work! :89-
Oh my God, I have so many of these I want to try out now!  :72-

Jim ! That was THE FIX  of the year!  :133-

You mean you could not find any of this type of dikes? Or was you looking for something else? :79- :79-

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/PLATO-170-/22-8705 (http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/PLATO-170-/22-8705)

LOL...thanks for the link to the dikes...uh, shears.... :96-

FYI, old school called any of those side cutting pointed pliers, dikes. Oops showing my age again.