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Would $300 be fair for this machine if everything works and in good shape?  I am not familiar with this one.  Anyone have any videos?

Hello...   $300 for any S+ is not bad; If it includes the Bill validator , then it's a really good deal. But  JACKPOT JUNGLE is really a very boring game IMO.  Good Luck, Bill

Hi Bill, why is it a boring game?  I'm not an enthusiast by any means and don't really know what to look for.  I would appreciate the insight.

This is just an opinion; but an opinion most likely shared by many on this sight.  The Jackpot Jungle's only feature is that the JACKPOT JUNGLE is Wild.  It's a very basic game in general as opposed to other game features like 2x, 3x,5x, Spin til you win, Bars notching up to  ( or down) to the payline, Haywire feature( where certain winning spins will repay the win several times over). 

for $300 is still a good deal if it includes a bill validator and a hopper.  You can always change the theme later, which you will do anyway.  That being said, if you are close to one of our many dealers, you could probably get an S2000 for 3 or 4 more bills and be more up to date, but $300 for an S+ is still good as an entry point.  I paid around $1,000 for my S+

In terms of desireability it depends what kind of S+ you are looking at.

THe hirearchy is: SLANT TOP (Sit down machine), 9" - also called crop top, 16" and Round Top.
In terms of attractiveness - you get more graphics on the 16" and Round Tops so they are more desireable than the others.

I have seen Slants going from $50-$100 in the past..... $250-$500 is average. These are heavy machines and if you are considering putting it downstairs make sure you can navigate the angles and have enough buddies to get it there. Deep Freezers are easier to move.

$300 for a upright S+ is a good deal as oultined in the previous posts. This applies to  any theme. If you want to check out the list of games look at Ricks FAQs and choose IGT game bible.

Some of the things I would ask about is the Mylar finish on the sides - chips, peeling etc sometimes show that this machine may have come from the NewOrleans area and it may have some water damage (Katrina left overs).

Once you have your platform you can start collecting S+ game kits.
A game kit is Glass + Reel stips + Chips

A gamekit goes for anywhere from $40 - $200 ...again the hirearchy appies ..... round top kits go for more because there are less of them slants go for less.
People seem to want 3 coin games more than 2 coin games and 5 coins (rare) are even more desired. Mult-line games tend to be more fun... etc.

Escentially a game kit allows you to morph a 1 line 2coin machine into any other game... 5 line 5 coin for instance.
If you check out the link called RICKS FAQs on our home page there is a lot of info on how to do a game change. Takes less than 15min.

I own two 9" and a 16" - I have about 60 game kits and have basically collected both a 9" and 16" top glass so I can play my game in either style of machine.

 If you have any questions feel free to ask.... No dumb questions here.

Here are some photos of the machine.  He mentioned that the the battery was dead.  He removed the battery from the board and added a "battery pack" and that everything has worked fine since then.  Any thoughts there?  The front chrome looks like it may have a snarf it it above the "O" on the word Jackpot.  Perhaps a decal of some sort would be appropriate to cover it up or if there's a way to polish it out.  Only takes quarters.

He's currently at $300, and mentioned that his price is negotiable.  What do you guys think?  Any ideas on the weight of this thing and dimensions?

It is definately an older machine, and it DEFINATELY does not have a bill validator!  :60-

 :81- For that fact I would pass for sure.

Was it a local item, or were you going to have it shipped to you?

CaptainHappy :95-
 :nlg- ADMIN

No shipping...I'd drive about 50 miles to pick it up.

Forget it. Boring game. Outdated machine. There are much better options out there. :89-

I would also say forget it but for a slightly different reason.

IF you look a the reel glass for most of the S+ machines. The credit windows, winner paid etc are across the bottom. This one is to the right.
While not totally impossible to find, the reel glass for this is harder to come (insert expensive) by especially if you want to swap it out for a 3 line, 5 line or the ever elusive 9line theme.

This potentially could even be an S and not a S+ can't say for sure.

That's what I meant by outdated. I figured that it could very well be be an S, which would severely limit theme selection when swapping. I would not recommend an S as someone's first slot. The machine has extinct reel glass and no DBV. Couple that with the fact that Jackpot Jungle is an older game with no color (they were still using black bar symbols back then), no multiplier, no nudges, no respin, no haywire...

Buy a nice clean S+, or even an S2000, even if you still want Jackpot Jungle. Once you get bored with it, you'll be glad to have a newer machine and a host of kit choices available to you.

I'm gonna shoot myself in the foot and stand up and say that it's the earliest S+ version...
I don't think it's an "M" version.
I have a few of those and I have to agree with the guys...
it's not a very exciting game at all and it's such an old version that good game kits for this one
will cause you to change a lot of things to update it - starting with the reel glass for instance.
The door in this version wasn't designed to accept a DBV and
it would be next to impossible to try to retro fit a DBV to fit into it.
So IGT's next version I believe was to make a bill acceptor to fit into the reel glass where the small display board is on the right hand side.
That's when they came up with the display across the bottom of the reel glass.
You'll be banging your head  :7-  and wishing for the newer S+ with the display across the top of the buttons at the very least
You'll be much happier if you shopped around for an newer S+ or even better yet...an S2000. :89-

It's an early S+, I would wait around and try to pickup an S+ with the DBV integrated on it.  Or an S2000. :79- :79- :79-

He said that he would take $225 for it.  This is more of an every now and then play toy.  Bill validator is not a huge deal to me.  I guess if I can drop coins in, pull the arm or press the reel spin button and it pays out...I'm good.  Would 225 even be fair for a unit like this for the "non" enthusiast?

Not having a bill validator is actually a pretty big deal to most.  You'll quickly get tired of constantly putting in quarters.   You seem convinced that you want  the machine though...    I'd still recommend holding out for a machine with a bill validator ; even If it comes with a boring game because you can always switch out the game kit.  It's much more costly and time consuming to add a bill validator to the machine you're looking at.  My recommendation......pass

Well, you know what they say: "My confused is made up, don't remind me with facts." :5- :30-  :97- :97- :97-

Welll, I'm still on the fence.  $200 for this machine, or spend 5-600 on up for an updated model.  Can replacement chips, bulbs, parts be obtained for this model?  I just look at this machine vs. the same price as a crummy Pachislo...seems like good value.  I'm not really buying a machine to use all the time...it's more of a novelty that friends can pull a few times when they're over.  For that purpose stated, doesn't that seem like an ok deal?  I know you guys are enthusiasts, but I don't think I could find what you are all describing for 2 bills right?

You can probably get a S+ for about $350... contact the vendors on the home page.
The difference however might be shipping cost....as the one you have is close enough that you can pick it up.

$200 is a short night at a casino.  If you want it, buy it, we all started somewhere.  You did say it was working ok didn't you?  When you get the itch for more, which you will, then you can shell out a few more bucks.

w

Well Yoeddy1, you're almost there. Only four posts to go. :71-  :97- :97- :97-

Seriously, it sounds like you had already made up your mind to buy it before posting and have been looking for validation. Believe me, I've done the same thing many times with purchases of items that I really wanted and couldn't fully justify. :89-

In Star Trek, the Ferengi five stages of acquisition (as written by Ira Steven Behr, and slightly modified by me) are: infatuation, justification, obsession, appropriation, and resale. While it may be Star Trek, that doesn't invalidate Ira's observation (which he probably based on the five stages of grief).

(Mr. Behr's original order, which can be found on the internet, puts appropriation ahead of obsession. I firmly believe that obsession comes before appropriation. So I guess that these are StatFreak's Ferengi rules of acquisition. :5-)

It sounds like you've finished stage three and are ready for stage four. Buy the machine and enjoy it. :88- :71-

The rules above can also apply when chasing out women to be with.... :96-

I think Mr. Behr has a point though.  Don't we all have the machines already, and are we not obsessed even more after we have them?  Can you be obsessed with a device you do not yet own?  I think Infatuation is the correct term for something we do not yet own, but want REALLY BAD  I guess it comes down to a matter semantics.  :103- :103- :103-

I see infatuation as the first stage of developing a desire for the object in question. Once one becomes enamored, once has to justify their need for the object. At that point, it depends on whether or not the person can obtain the object immediately or not. I realized, after posting last night, that obsession can belong on both sides of acquisition. If one obtains the object of their desire shortly after justifying their need, then there is no obsession prior to acquisition. However, if, as is the case with many expensive toys, it takes months or years to purchase the object, then obsession definitely sets in prior to purchase. I ended up putting obsession first because most of the cool toys that I've wanted over the decades required time to acquire. So at the end of the day, it's personal experience that caused me to change their order.

Stout - I would drop Justification from that list when it comes to women..... and per resale.... hmmmm

No Resale!!!??? :37-
No!...
How am I gonna get my money back from purchasing
all those online Soviet Russian wives I was all infatuated and obsessed with , Huh? HUH??????.... :72-




(just kidding... :96-)

I wasn't going to reply to Jay's comment, but since you mention it.. of course there is resale. It's called divorce. It's just that she gets all of the profits, and you get the depreciation.  :160- :73- :106-    :50- :125-     :50- :125-   

Ya, but was it worth all the years of.....  :190- :110- :117- :190- :141- :169-
You may have come out a head of the game.  :30- :72-

Hi guys,

Well, despite all the "don't do it" posts, I made a trip, bought it and brought it home.  It is one squeaky clean machine and for a bit less than 2 bills, I couldn't pass it up.  I'll update the photos with it sitting in my room.  I ran a big time clean up on it.  What I don't understand is that the previous owner left some sticky tape on the chrome, the glass and reels were dirty, but after I put my OCD touch on it, it's looks sweet.  He didn't even have the volume turned on...only reel noise!  

Anyway, I cleaned the reels and noticed that the short edge of the reels, not the long edge the fits in the baskets, appear to bow out a bit.  I thought about taping them but wanted to get your opinions on what to do.  The reels are a bit noisy, although not offensive by any means...would taping those down help?  Does anyone have a good taping diagram, thread, tutorial?

Also, as it was unplugged for hours on the way home, it initially came up with a code of 61 and then to 12 after holding the self test.  After sitting plugged in for a while it finally cleared itself and has been running great.  Board battery was removed and a battery pack of 3 double A's was soldered onto the board where the old board battery used to sit.  Am I able to turn the power off every night or will this battery pack drain and give the same error?  Is this how the original board battery worked as well?

Thanks everyone!

Thanks everyone.

Pics of the inside of the cabinet would be a good help to let us know if we are dealing with a S or S+
The errors so far it sounds like an early model S+ without a bill validator although the strange config of the reel glass still leaves the jury out until we get a pic.
There might also be a plate next to the pull arm.

I will defer you to RICKS FAQ on the top of the home page. He has well documented the process in which to do a game change. 61 is the first error you get after a game change. I suspect the bouncy ride home made the board slip a bit and that is what caused the 61. As opposed to the machine being off.

The boards come stock with a 3.6v lithium battery soldered on. These die about every 6-8 years and sometimes leak. You previous owner was smart to change this out to a battery holder but you should not need to change these too often. You will get an error 12 (battery) low until then don't worry about it. 

Thanks jay, I'll put some pictures up tonight.  So is it ok then to turn the machine off when it's not in use?  I have it plugged into a surge protector.  Is it ok to power off at the surge protector, or is it better to power off using the toggle switch inside of the machine?

I guess I'm concerned that if I leave the machine off now for any long period of time, it's going to come back to a 61 or 12.  Like I said, I put fresh batteries in the pack just as a troubleshooting step, and we are back to normal...although I'm not sure how that happend.  ;)  When the machine is powered off, the batteries on the board are what keep the memory in tact right? 

If you power off, the battery will slowly drain to maintain the data stored in cmos intact.  Even if the machine is plugged into an outlet, it will still drain battery, the S+ does not have a stand-by mode like modern electronics, in this case the on/off switch is really an on/off switch.  The only way to keep the battery from draining is to have it on all the time.  But since you have a batter holder, getting some of those high energy lithium batteries should be able to keep it there for quite a while.

My machines are off 2/3rds of the time.... sometimes for weeks at a time. I have my whole basement 4 slots, pinball, 8 neons etc .... all on X10 control.
THere are about 5 circuits in my basement but a single press of a button (A1-ON) and snap-crack the basement toys come to life. The slots are on power surge power bars and I use 2 500w x10 modules (one on each power bar) to control those.

When I moved from Pittsburgh PA to Calgary AB I left on Nov 27th, 2007  - since my basement was not built out at the time, It took me until Oct -2008 before I was in a position to get things running again. In shipping my units I didn't want any grief at the border. Canada is non specific on slot ownership other than you are not allowed to use them for gambling, however PA has a 1940 or earlier law so I had taken the boards, hoppers and DBV heads out just so I could claim they were non functional parts machines. When I put all back together I didn't even get a error 61 they just popped up and started working.

I have since had to replace one battery (error 12) but who knows how old that board really is - I had it for 5+ years and the battery looked orginal.

 

My S+ machines are off 99% of the time, since I only turn them on to play them (that still works out to an average of about 14½ minutes per day per machine, or 1hr 41min per week per machine. No, I won't say how many hours per week that comes out to in total.. :79- :30-)

I have never changed a battery on an S+. They all appear to be original, which means that they are, on average, about 15 years old.
Now, Bally ProSlots, on the other hand.. :60- :58-  :190-  I have a stack of batteries in my freezer, just for them. :96-

So, let me see if I understand correctly...

When my 3 AA battery pack starts to get low, will I start seeing 12 errors, or will I start getting 12 errors when the AA's are completely dead?  I guess what I'm wondering is if they start to get low and I start seeing the 12 code, can I hurry and remove the old batteries and replace with fresh batteries and keep everything in tact and not screw up the memory? 

Once you got a 12 your batteries are low, too low to use in anything else and basically your cmos is lost (game settings etc).
If you yank your batteries tomorrow and replace with fresh, your cmos is lost (game settings etc).
Your dammed if you do and dammed if you don't. On a pin ball machine you can change batteries while the machine is on to preserve settings.
No such luck here.

The previous owner made your battery change convienient - better than soldering to the board but the results are the same.

You are not likely to run into trouble anytime soon. I would recommend that as you begin to acquire other game kits and misc addons for your slot that you pick up a Clear chip.

A set chip is used to reactivate a bill validator - since you don't have one of those this is not a concern, however after your battery goes dead its common that you get a 61 error that just wont go away. A clear reformats the cmos and cleans this up. Like I said its not likely to happen tomorrow or the next day but you will eventually want to get one. When my battery went dead I did not need to do anything other than clear the 61 but I got lucky.

A battery change can be done while using a temporary power source, such as a battery pack alligator clipped to the wires. This would hold the settings.

Thanks,
Wayne

Not sure how I managed to get mine to work then...4 hours in the truck without power, I even took the 3 AA's out of the pack and replaced with other batteries.  I was running into problems over and over for about an hour trying everything I could, and then...it finally took...reels turned and presto, it was ready!  Whew.

Anyway, here are some photos.  Can I even get a clear chip or other games for this machine...it is an 88 model.

Couple more of the inside and door...

I found this thread:  http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=148.0

That's exactly how my battery solution was modified.  Now I'm wondering if that's how I got lucky with my battery swap and avoided a clear memory?  If the machine is powered up, and I take out the batteries quickly and replace with fresh ones, could this avoid memory corruption?  The pinball guys recommend this for those machines...wasn't sure if it's recommended for a slot with my type of battery mod.

Did you go into Ricks FAQ yet ? the section on game change will show you how to clear the 61.

For what it's worth, too, I just did a battery change on my S+ a couple of weeks ago (due to an error 12) and I didn't even lose any settings -- my bill validator was working, and I even still had credits on the machine after the battery change!

knagl, did you do your battery change with the power on?

I'd imagine it would be okay to hook up the battery
with a parallel battery attached to the dying battery.
You'd need to make a remote battery pack with alligator clips to do it though.
The remote pack keeps the ram's memory intact
as you physically change out the dying/dead battery for a new one.
However, all you're really saving is accounting stuff...
it's not that important for home use.
It's a lot safer to remove the dead battery
and replace it with a new one just in case you make a mistake
and hook up the remote with  a series hookup.
If that happens, you'll fry  :98- some components for sure... :8-

Your machine is a S machine.  you are limited to most of the earlier games. Double diamond, red white blue, etc.  no nudge games  or anything fancy.  you don;t  have a sp chip either only a game chip, that board uses the same battery as the S+  ,a 1/2 AA 3.6 volt lith.  replace with power off .  board is removed by taking out the screw at the top and pulling the board forward, remove the three plugs and you can remove the board.  the blue pot at the bottom right near the plug is the volume adj.

Jim

Jim makes a good point regarding the chips. The S uses RS chips for game themes, not SS, so if you do look for a replacement kit, you'll need to find the older RS chip rather than the "standard" S+ SS reel chip that most sellers offer.

I'd love to see how you'd do that.   :96-

No, with the power off I removed the board, brought it to a friends shop, we replaced the battery there, and then I drove the board back home and re-installed it.

Oh true.  If it was a standard battery soldering job, I can see how that would be tricky.  In my case however, I just replace the AA batteries and don't even have to remove the board.

I don't think this is going to be any benefit to you at all.
When my battery died I got a error 12. The machine was on etc.
It would be my hypothesis that when you pull the AA's you will get an error 12 state just the same as the battery going dead on a live game.

So you will be in the same pool regardless....if you do it with the power on, off, in or out.

When I changed my battery - shortly (a couple of days) after getting a 12 I did not need to run a clear or any other chip through it just worked cleanly with no errors not even a 61.
The large caps on the board will hold memory for a while. This involved soldring in a new battery.
Knagl basically proved the same thing except that it sounds like his board was out hours not min.

These boards were NOT designed for a live swap and I would be somewhat concerned that you have the potential to do more damage than just the potential of getting a stickey 61.
Dealing with a battery change like everyone else.