New Life Games Tech Forums

hello, I have a S+ 16Mhz and game prom sp1309, when they are playing it shows it "error" 42 and the reels they begin to rotate slowly. I rotate the reset key and it returns to the normality, but after a time it shows the error 42 again. I appreciate any answer. :131-

Error 42 means the center reel has a problem. Make sure the reel is not hitting anything while it is spinning and the reel strip is tight and in position. Make sure plug is seated properly.

You could also try swapping the middle reel with the first reel, if you have a bad reel the error code will be 41,
 if you still get error code 42 than try re seating your game board and Check that the wiring harness is plugged in tight
to the bottom of the reels and at the top of the game board

Wes

Check the wiring for the fluorescent light that goes over the reels.  As you close the door, the wires for the light may be sagging and hitting that middle reel.

Thank you for their answers. I already verified all that and continuing with the same error. I changed the driver of the reel #2 (SAA1042) and it follows the same thing. I appreciate any answer

The sp1309 is a tournament chip, what reel chip are you running with it?

If its not rubbing the most likely cause of this is a reel optic - most likely dirty since the problem is intermittent.

The first thing you should do is swap two of the reels around and make sure the problem moves with the reel.
Subsequently you would expect a 41 or 43 depending on which reel you swapped.

Make sure you swap the reel strip too otherwise you will get the appearance of some unexpected and wonky pays.....

If the problem moves I would suggest getting a q-tip with a bit of water and cleaning the optic. Post back if you need help with the dissasembly and such.

I am using the ss3505 (red, white and blue)

From experience,
I have about 15 of these 10MHz S+ boards...
All of these boards have that stupid 41/42/43 error code I couldn't get rid of.
I was told by a member a couple of years ago
that the cause was a bank of five resistors down in one corner of the board that go bad.
If you remove the board from the tray and hold it up to a strong light behind it..
you'll notice how yellowed the board has gotten behind 3 of these resistors.
Why only 3 yellowed ones? Most S+'s only run 3 reels...
and those 3 resistors are the ones that are bad...
For fun, I removed one resistor that looked real bad
and replace it with a new one...by golly it worked!...NO MORE ERRORS!!!
Those resistors are usually very sturdy stuff...
but imagine this...those machines were 'ON" in a casino for years and years at one time
Those 3 resistors were trying their best to "hold" the reels in place while nobody was playing them.
Ever notice how when you first turn on your machine, the reels "stiffen up"?
That's those 3 resistors doing their jobs at the moment...
Whenever the machine is on and no one's playing...those resistors are working their behinds off! :89-

I 'll try to post a pic of the bank of these resistors when I can get a chance, okay?

Great advise but, he said he had the 16Mhz board  :103- Is that the same resistor bank? :103-

Gee,
and I thought it was because the motors on the reels are stepper motors.

I thought so too Neon, :128-
but there was some posts that Ozzy put up last year or
on the old NLG forum that clearly described the functions of those 5 resistors. :89-
When I changed those resistors with new ones, the 41/42/43 error codes went away
and never came back...That's why I have so many old boards...
I kept buying them from some where to change them out.
I couldn't figure what was causing those darn codes to keep on coming up
until Ozzy helped me.
I wish I could find those pictures...
I searched but didn't have any luck locating them. :8-
I remember printing them out one time and storing them in my S+ archive binders...
I'll look for them tomorrow and re-scan them and post them up here if I get a chance to...

Sorry to ask again but does this also apply to the 16Mhz board?????

LOL...yes,yes!

The only difference I think is there's no sound knob and the CPU processor is faster...LOL

I would still follow the same diagnostic process.

Move the reel they just pop out. IF the problem moves with the reel then you know its a reel problem.
If the problem does not move then its a problem with the board or something rubbing - and you already said nothing is rubbing.
If the problem goes away then it could have been a connector issue (oxidization etc) and re-seating probably fixed it.

I would hate to start doing board level repairs if you don't have too....

I agree with you Jay,
I was just saying what was happening with me and my stack of boards...
Here's a pic of the resistors I was talking about....
Click on it to enlarge it!>>>

Mark,

I was not pooh-poohing your solution, in fact I filed it away in my repair log for future use.......
I was just saying that before I get out the soldering gun I would go through the process of elimination.

On another note, spoke to Oz yesterday. He is currently in Alabama doing a job, then over to india before returning to the DR.
Sure wish he could find time to post more.... he can be absolutely brilliant...

LOL...yeah,
Just don't get him going about politics though....!

Would this be of any help from Oz?

Ron

Those were the ones! Thanks r273!  :89-

I couldn't find those anywhere! :25-
Again, There's not a whole lot of difference between the 10 and 16 MHz boards..
esp. the reel control components on the boards...
The U3 ( socket) position on a 10MHz board is usually empty
unless you have a machine that has a bonus reel or something like a 16" upright Barcrest.
That socket gets occupied with a TY40477 chip that
has 16-pins but the middle 4 pins are cut off and not used.

Thank you stayouttadabunker, nó more error 42!!! everything thanks to your experience. :131- :131- :131-
Also thank you to all those that wrote.

I'm so happy you got your machine up and running again like it should!  :89-

Can I ask you, what did you end up changing?  :129-

Always try to keep us updated as we can learn from you too!  :71-

I changed the resistances that are in the corner, and the machine began to work to 100%. thank you.

That's great that you posted the repair! :3-
It'll definitely will help future members! :89-

Keep an eye on it and let us know later on if any problems arise.
It's good to stick a note on the board tray
of the repairs done to the board for future reference too... :89-

What are the ratings on those resistors 470 ohm?   

Hmm...
Yellow/Violet/Brown and Gold = 470 Ohms...

Yeppers!...You've just won a free slot machine from Joey!  :5-

do these TEST bad?   everyone says just replace them and Voila!   I have several with 4x type errors yet my multimeter shows them at 470?   

Yes, they will "Test" bad ...if not, then the problem will lie elsewhere on the boards...
Sometimes it'll be at the area where the U10(reel 1), U2(reel 2), and U11(reel 3) are.
The U3 sockets will usually be un-occupied.
Check this link out>>>
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4423.0;attach=12413 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4423.0;attach=12413)


If you're lucky, then it's only the bank of resistors....
if not, then it's a more costly repair and you'd really have to get into using a scope and even more sh---t!
At that point, it's kinda like...well, should I get new motor and transmission for
 this piece of you-know-what I've been driving for the last 20 years?  :72-

These boards are still plentiful and cheap enough to just go out and buy another one...

thought the fix was TOO SIMPLE - fixing these boards is kind of dumb since there are so many good boards floating around - but finding a easy fix - oh well - appreciate the info - kudos