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This may have beee talked about on the old forum- :103-.  I have recently encountered a need for "rare" hard to get glass.  If by chance you have some "rare' glass and it is broken/cracked etc. It still may be of use.  First determine if the artwork behind the glass is ok.  Then if thats ok, (now do not freak) Use non-chlorinated brake cleaner to remove the glass from the laminate.  It will not damage the art work when done properly.  Once the glass is off examine the work and clean more with brake cleaner and a say "bon-do" shaper etc. to get all the glue and glass shards off.  It is tedious work but when you are done it is ready for a virgin piece of glass or to be scanned for files for the arcives.  I have done this a couple times myself from a freinds advice and it works-The stuff to me when removed and cleaned is nothing more than a laminate type feel simular to a driver license but a little thinner.  B.  I would post some pics of my success but again it was very "rare" glass for me to do this option-Hell it did not cost much to try But wear gloves and saftey glasses when doing for sure- :89-.  As A Big note also I have only performed this on newer s-2000 type glass.  2001-present.   It is better than throwing the stuff away and letting some varmant piss on it-- :96- :5-.

I'm looking forward to seeing the pictures. How did you use the brake cleaner? Did you pour it over the back of the laminate, or try to work it in-between the laminate and the glass starting at the damaged areas (or the edges)? Did you let is soak?  :103-

David,  Work in-between the broken glass-No Soak- :60-.  And absoultley not on the back at all.  I could show a pic tomorrow of the finished/removed logo/graphic even though it is a "rare" one.  Thanks B.  I think you may have been aware of this procedure- :103-.  I have started doing this on rare broken glass as there are no gurantees I would get another one so I thought worst case after time I would just fabricate/build the glass using household methods.

Here is one I removed yesterday.  Again this can be tedious work but I think it may be worth the effort.  I have done 3 others before this one which I have packed away incase I cannot find the "rare" or hard to get glass I can use this method.  Thanks B.

Have you found a way to re-apply it to a new piece of glass?

I had some WMS glass that was coming loose and I tried plain white glue. Like Elmer's, cause it dries clear. Not so good
I tried spray on glue, Too many air bubbles
I also tried Crystal clear top coat in the spray can. That gave the best results, but in some areas it attacked the artwork and the colors started to bleed together.

Anyone have a fool proof method?

I think Kenokarz found a spray adhesive that dries clear that he has used. If I remember, he said he got it at Hobby Lobby but I don't recall the name. Oh, Dave... fill us in!

 Dan (tacman)

As you can see on the removed piece I pictured the colors did not bleed using non-cholrinated brake cleaner to remove.  This also did not dis-color the clear plastic coating as well.  There will be no bleeding issues with this type of laminate as it is the art is "sandwiched" in between clear laminate simular to drivers license material just a hair thinner.  The three pieces once removed as pictured is actually very thick and tough.  The adherant should not be a big deal when I go to do it-Something that dries clear .  A window tint squeege or simular will be used on backside when applying.  This by no means is rocket science to do with the newer igt glass graphics.  I do not know about the other makes. I have started to save these graphics-"just in case" I cannot find the complete good ones.  when done properly this will still be a orginal -Just malipulated to once again function. Since the art work was not copied etc.-No harm, No foul.  Thanks B.

Hi Guys,

I had a thought.....

What are you using for replacement glass?? Do you take a good piece of glass to a glass company and have then cut blanks precisely?? Are you good enough to cut it yourself? Or do you sacrifice an IGT piece of glass and pull the art off and clean it (the glass) for reuse?

Just wondered, and thought that others may have the same question!  :103-

Thanks for detailing this for everyone!  :3- :3- :3-

CaptainHappy :95-

I will use a non-desirable theme glass myself or one that does not appeal to me.  Thanks B.

Here is an older post/thread about some of the talk about the decal/graphics removal. B.

Thanks this gives me the info we needed

I do not know too much about this subject but couldn't a person just scan the image in to a large format scanner and print it from a large format ink-jet printer. Then it could be mated to plexiglas. Again, I do not know but wouldn't it be legal to make a backup copy of the image for yourself? If I had a rare theme in glass, that's what I would do. Then I would keep the "master" in a fireproof vault.

I believe cfh has done this many times, he might can give you the details.

Ron (r273)

The problem I understand with scanning is -
the scanner has to go through the glass to get to the printed part.
That's where it gets kinda ugly... :5-

Well, I guess there is no easy way to do it. Rare themes are great but if the glass breaks........that's that. Or you could do Pwrstroke's suggestion and remove the decal first, scan, and then reapply it to Plexiglas. A lot of work but you would have a backup in case of anything. My company at one time had a large scale scanner and large format printer for mechanical drawings. This is the stuff you need. IGT has graphics but you better be a registered casino or rep, it's not available to the general public due to copyright.

I've heard before that Kinko's will do reel strips!
Though I don't know what they would charge to do a scan of an award or belly glass.
Or how it would come out... :5-

I would never use "plexi-glass" for the ones I have.  I will use a non-desirable them orginal cut glass to transfer the art work to.  Does not matter if it is 31 inch,16,9,round etc..  For some this method is much cheaper and is still authenic/orginal if done properly and looks much better the scanned repro. glass.  I have some repro glass in a few williams games and I do not like it but it works for now.  There is deff. a differance.  I have some relatives that work in casinos and broken glass is a common thing there.  Depending on theme I save them from the trash can for possible future use.  I had re-posted to this thread last night to try and help slotsteve.  This method has already been done and proven-it works.  I will say this you really have to like your game/theme to go thru all this--- :5-.  B.

What adhesive are you using to reapply?

When I first started this I used this method on a belly glass and it was smaller for testing purposes. (this was about a year ago).  I took my artwork and a orginal glass sheet (with art removed) to a window-tint business where a buddy of mine works.  He sprayed the glass and the art work,applied it,squeeged it and said here you go and handed me the bottle.  I will have to ask him what the ingrediants are.  Sure its not that hard as the stuff has hardly any odor.  Any ways the work dries a little hazy and after aprox 1-day give or take it looked like I mean a factory make.  I was impressed with the end result.  The stuff has a thickness and ply to it (artwork) that makes appling it a snap as far as air bubbles etc. goes. The adhesive is water-based I do know that much.  The stuff is kinda like puzzle-glue but a bit more liquidey.  B.

You need to get ahold of that guy again...! :89-
Ask him what it was in that bottle... :96-

I will do that but think about -I give the whole recipe away!!--"Window-Tint".  The adhesive used on this is the same.  Some window tint comes with the adhesive on the back and other types use the spray on type.  The spray type is used on the thicker tint I think.  The stuff dries clear-shoot It is for Windows.  Anyway I will ask him next week.  At least I do have nearly a full bottle of the stuff for now.  It does not take a whole lot to do this-Both parts were sprayed until they were coated and dripping and applied and again sqeeged out. (proper spelling of squeege?).  I do not use spell chk. here as most could probably tell-sorry B.

I was just at a pinball website were the guys have a library of playfield parts scanned.
The parts scanned are basically the same as belly & award glasses we use.
The scans are awesome!
I compared the scans to pieces from my own pinball game and could not see any difference.
There's barely no perceptual difference between and original and a scanned piece.
Nobody sells the scans and they are freely passed around or are uploadable
so any pinball machine owner can print them onto their own pieces of plastics.
(uh,...they don't use much glass inside the machines except for the
one large piece of tempered glass over the top of the machine...LOL)

   Hey, I want to check that out..   :205-  list a link to the site please  :89-

   I found a place that sells large 11 x 17 sheets of "decal paper" that can be printed in reverse  from a standard office coping machine (color of course) and then transferred to the back side of glass.  This would be great for making your own "themes"   :79-

Ya, Ask him.
I thought of the window tint a long time ago because my highscool friend's dad owned Sun-X glass tinting. If you purchased a Ford vehicle from the 70's thru the 80's it has his glass tinting from the factory. Anyways, I did some research all I could find was that the tint was treated at the factory with the glue. The only thing in the bottle is water to activate the factory applied glue.

So please see what you can find out.
I checked water soluble spray glues and all that seems to come up is Elmer's.

Will do that.  Evidently you do not believe what I am stating.  Anyway I will do that and I encourge others here to experiment as there are some experiments I keep to myself.  This glass thread is simple if you can handle a little work and are crafty.  I only get time to work on my stuff in the late evenings -mostly weekends -Late night.  Until I am retired it will be that way.  I am going to post some pics next week of the "dirty Job" I have to endure and it is not good on the back- :8-. B.

 :211- :211- :211- :211-

I have about 8 pieces of glass that have separated. The backing is completely off.
I have been looking for a way to re-adhere them back to the glass.
I tried the spray glues but they are spotty. You can see the spray pattern when the light shines thru. Kinda like using a can of spray paint. It look good until you hold it up to the light.
I also tried the Elmer's, I figured if it dries clear why not. It has been 6 months ago and it's still not clear in the center. The edges came out good, but after that dried the stuff in the center is still wet.

The most promising was Krylon crystal clear triple thick spray. The only drawback is you have to be accurate and quick. It's real slippery and if you screw around with it too long the spray will start to attack and bleed the graphics.

Just wanted to post my experimenting around with this stuff, so other don't have to go down a road that has been traveled.
If anyone come up with something better, please post your results. :131- :131-