New Life Games Tech Forums

Got a problem, probably a simple fix, I have an IGT Haywire, model B5033CW that has an error 61 code showing. Now I know that I'm suppose to press the reset button, but I don't know where it's at on this machine, my Triple Bonanza machine has it next to the on/off swith. Could somebody walk me through clearing this error code? Also the bill validator seems to want to work, but doesn't accept bills or light up. Any suggestions? Thanks.   

the switch is at the rear side of the small box the on off switch is in, you'll feel it when you reach a finger back there.  the bv won't work until it's cleared


w

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=4386.msg37790#msg37790 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=4386.msg37790#msg37790)

Once the error is cleared....if the BV still does not light up ... you are going to need a SET chip to enable it.

Basically a S+ slot works on credits and it before the BV works it needs to know how many credits to give for a $1.00.
The Set Chip tells the slot what denomination it is

I did find the reset button, thanks for that info. Now, I got the 61 code to disappear, reset  the machine, it started to fire back up, but the reels chugged and sputtered then stopped, giving me an Error 42. Does this sound like the motherboard needs to be cleared? When I bought the game it came with clearing chips, but I haven't a clue as to how to do this, any suggestions?Thanks   

41/42/43 are Reel TILT errors.

with the 1,2,3 corresponding to the erroring reel.
First make sure nothing is rubbing. Its possible that this happened in transit. 
Press the reset button, then turn the key switch to clear.

If the error keeps coming back remove the reel and swap it to another position and see if the problem moves with the reel.
If it follows the reel then it could be a bad or dirty reel optic. If it keeps coming back to the same reel position then there is a resistor that could be bad.

The reels were working previously. All three reels spin(chug/sputter), would one reel cause the other two to act that way?

Yep.... it makes a horrendous noise too like something is grinding....and they turn really slow.

I once caused a 41 by opening my door when the game was playing... It wouldn't clear the normal way after doing that. Had to resort to a clear chip.
I also caused a 43 when a wire for my progressive display got in the way of the reel. This cleared really simple.

Thanks. I'll give the reel change fix a try and see what happens. Since I'll have the reels out, how do I go about cleaning the optics? If that fails & it's a resistor, is it on the motherboard or on the reel itself? I'm new to this fixin' stuff on my own so please stay with me on this, thanks.

I doubt it's a resistor, try the easy stuff first,clean the optics if you wish.  Open the door turn the reset and close the door to clear.  You can try the reels in the other S-Plus

w

I'm a firm believer that anyone with a slot should have clear chip/s ans set/key chips, they come in handy and don't cost much.

w

1. Clear the error.... Test button, turn jackpot reset key. Make sure nothing is rubbing.
2. IF it comes back then try moving the reel. See if the problem follow the reel.
3. If it comes back and it followed the reel that you moved, clean the optic. Qtip water (no cleaner).

4. If it comes back and it does not follow the reel, check the reel harness (swap it with a known good one or check continuity on all wires with a meter).
5. If you have ruled out the reel and the harness and have reseated the harnesses and the board, try swapping MPU boards.
6. At this point, consider a clear or a check of the MPU board's resistors. There is a thread that documents the resistor issue if it comes to that.

Ok, here's the weird thing, I changed the reels(moved #1 to #2 spot)turned the game back on, no error codes and insert coin light came back on, accepted the coin,credited the game and played w/o a single problem. I changed the reels back and it put it right back to error 42 again with the reels chugging and shuttering. Where am I at at this point?

Sounds like a bad wire inside of a molex plug...
switch the reels back the other way  when you had it working with no error codes,
and switch the strips too so they pay out correctly and you should be good to go!

That was kinda my thinking too. You said to change the strips, did you mean the actual strip or the cage the strips are on? How do you do either of these? And what and where are these creatures called MOLEXES? Sounds like something from the movie Time Machine. As I've said, I'm not use to the technical terms & the ends & outs of theses games, but I am learning. Thanks to all for your time, knowledge & help.

No those were Morlocks......I can see you are going to fit in with this crowd really well already.....

Molexes are the plastic connectors at the end of the wires. I think the term comes from molded interconnect.

The reel strips are the laminated paper that is wrapped around the plastic reel. They are simply held in by friction.
There is a small cut out notch on the left side of the strip which is used to align the strip correctly on the wheel.

Once you remove the strip the little plastic nub on the wheel is all but invisible and the easiest way to find it is to put the edge if the strip in the grove on the wheel and slowly rotate it until you hit it. Then seat the start of the strip in properly......

MOST reel strip sets have 3 unique numbers with the lowest number going on the left most reel.
Some sets are all numbered the same and in which case it doesnt matter what order they go on.

So if you are moving the reel housings around you need to make sure you have your reel strips in the correct order.

My theory on your problem is that the interlocking pins are oxidized in a certain way and when you moved the two reels around .... the problem went away because in a different slot they now made a good electrical connection. The problem came back when you put them back because the points of oxdization lined up again a poor connection existed. Using a white eraser or a small bit of sand paper on the pins for a second or two should shine these up and make the problem go away for good.

As Gomer Pyle would say "Thank ya, thank ya, thank ya!" :131- I have to do that awful thing today..............WORK. :37- So I'll give it a try later and post the results. While I have you here, the bill validator cycles like it should on door closing, but never accepts bills (or Hilarys)or lights up. Sometimes during a game it cycles, but never works. Suggestions? I've checked the connectors & doors all are good. :103-

Once the errors are gone you will likely need a SET chip to enable the bill validator.

I defer to RICKS FAQs on the top of the home page - it describes this whole process. Rather simple buy you need the SET chip. If you are busy buying a SET chip get a Clear chip as well.

I have a S+ double diamond. I cannot clear code 61. I press the reset and get 61-1, close door, turn key and right back to 61. I found a broken wire on door optic and replaced. Still same problem. I have put the board in another game and it resets then when I put it back it won't. Could it be the bottom board? Jim

The "bottom" board is called the motherboard.
You've tried the "suspect" MPU in another machine and it "boots" up - no, problems right?
That means you've possibly ruled out that the "suspect" board is bad and that the "other" machine is "known good"...


Now, just for kicks, throw the "known good" MPU from the "other" machine into the "problem" machine.
If it "boots" up and allows you to get past the [61-1] code - you will know that the problem lies with the "problem machine".

If all goes like the scenario we've just pointed out - now would be a good time to swap motherboards to see if the motherboard is bad.


You see how "trouble-shooting" works?

Before you go through the trouble of swapping motherboards (it's a minor pain to do so), I'd try a clear chip.  When you're stuck in a 61 loop, a clear chip will typically resolve the issue.  If you don't have a clear chip, many of the vendors at the top of the page (like Jim at Blueridge) will have one available for sale, or you can post a "WTB" (Want To Buy) message in the classifieds section.

I had 3 mother boards sitting in corner. Found out 2 were bad. The last one fired it up and I cleared code 61 and works great. Are these boards worth repairing?

The one that kept you in a 61 loop likely isn't bad, it likely just needs to be cleared.  There's a non-removable EEPROM (well, you could remove it by desoldering it) on the motherboard that has to sync up with the MPU board.  You can clear it with a clear chip.

As far as "are these boards worth repairing", it depends on what's wrong with them.  If they were just keeping you in a 61 loop, then yes, keep them because they just need to be cleared.  If they have burnt components and are otherwise damaged, maybe not.

The 2 others I installed did not light any led's to show coins or anything.

they are worth keeping, like knagl said, the 61 loop probably needs to be cleared. for next to nothing you can put a socket on the board and never have to remove the board even if the eeprom did go out. there are only some resistors, bypass caps and the chip and its components. not much could go wrong.  if the resistors aren't burnt , then you have a damaged trace. you can usually spot those pretty easy. they too can be repaired. 

Jim

Hey guys...What if he has a bad power harness coming from the power supply?  :129-
You think he might have a badly oxidized ground receptor pin
in the PS harness Molex in these "other 2" motherboards?

Thanks for all the help. Machine is working great. I have an older s+ triple diamond and would like to have an external bill acceptor. Are they available and how difficult are they to install?

There are side-mount bill validators available that can be added to an S+.  There are plenty of them out there, it's just a matter of finding a vendor who kept some in a back room and didn't toss them.

They're not too difficult to add -- you need to drill through the cabinet to mount it, another hole for the wires, and then attach one harness to the motherboard, and two wires to the power supply distribution block in the bottom of the machine.  Then, you enable it with the use of a SET chip like an embedded validator.

If your goal is to just more easily add credits to your machine, it would be cheaper and easier to get an SP chip that supports tokenization.  With tokenization you could, for example, tell the machine that one coin = 25 credits (essentially making it a penny machine), so if you put in 4 quarters you'd get 100 credits on the meter.

The SP chip sounds like a good way to go. So each coin in would equal 25 credits. Would hitting max bet only remove 3 credits?

yes, providing your game is a 3 coin game.

Correct, if it's a 3-coin game.  You can set it to give you however many credits per coin -- 25 was just an example (although if it's a quarter machine, setting it to 25 per coin is a good way to make it a "penny" machine that takes and correctly credits quarters).

(Edit: Sorry, Bunker, didn't see you had already answered that!)

Also, if you have 78 credits and press "cash out", it will spit out three coins at you and leave 3 credits on the meter.  You must play out the credits that are a fraction of a token, or win enough for the next token value (25 or more credits).

You need to have a 10mhz board (most S+ machines do, although some are running the newer 16mhz board), and then use a SP1137 chip in place of your existing SP chip.  You'll also need to get a SET086 set chip to program the tokenization settings.  Once you get those chips, we can walk you through the process.  The classifieds section (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=5.0) is a good place to post a "WTB" (Want To Buy) message for the vendors who frequent this site -- they'll be able to get you the chips you need.

If you have a blue volume knob sticking out of the top of the MPU board in your machine (behind or next to the hopper, depending on the age of the game), you have a 10mhz board.  If you're not sure, take the board out (make sure the power is off first) and take and post a picture of it here, and we can verify it for you.

lol...that's okay...I didn't have time to put in a better answer like yours...
I was running out the door at the time I answered that one... :138-

If you do put a BV in it, and with the right chips, you can retain the quarters giving proper credit and payouts, but have the BV give more credits. For example 1 quarter = 1 credit, but $1 bill =100 credits.