New Life Games Tech Forums

I have an IGT S+ game Double Black Tie 3 coin game.  The game powers up, but will not do anything else.  The reels have power to them as they are rigid.  The insert coin lamp flashes.  The game seems not to reconize the door optics and I can enter the test mode but can not get the reels to spin or test sounds etc.  I have looked at the board and see no obvious signs of problems.  The pins are all straight on the bottom of the board.  All fuses appear good. 
HELP!!!!

Can you play in "test mode"?  With the door open, look for a little white button on the coin optics.  Press it to simulate coins dropping and then try to hit the reel spin buttons.  If it works, then your door optics are not working correctly (either bad optics, or they are not lining up, or are not connected).

No you can't play the game at all.  The game does not even spin reels as it should when game is powered on.  I placed a good set of optics on game and still nothing.

Do you have a different MPU board you can try?  Based on what you've said, my hunch is that there's something fried on the board you're using.

I had the same type of problem it drove me nuts. I took out the power supply and found one of the wires had come unplugged from a connector ( inside the power supply,you cannot see that wire ). I plugged it back in and the machine came back to life.....Good Luck.....

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I tried the mother baord removal and nothing.  The game was not working when I purchased it, It had no optics.  I looked in the power suplly but could not find any wires off.  If something on the board was bad, would the game still light up, flash insert coin, display an error code ( 49)  I moved one of the reels.  When I placed the hgopper back I got a 3100 error which is common.  Nothing else works though!!! 

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No I know what button you mean, the white little button by the comparitor.  That does not coin up.  I did try unpluging and pluging most of the plugs, but that still did not help.  I will take some photos and post tomorrow.  Really strange???  I thought it was the cpu?

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When you say that, are you saying that you tried a different MPU board?  If not, do you have a spare MPU board you can use to try in the problem machine?

No, I have a pe game.  I can't seem to post photos for some reason, it says filke attachments are too large.

The game I am speaking about with the problem is an S+ game.  I do not have another board (s+)  My other game I own which I took the optics off of is a PE game.  Hope this clears some confusion.

Make sure the optics on the door are red and black.
Those are "emitters"

The optics on the cabinet are red/white...
these are "receivers".

If you installed them backwards...they won't work...

optics are correct

Okay,
Jiggle the door latch handle upwards to try and line up the optics...
the eyes may not be seeing each other uh,..."eye-to-eye"...

Secondly,
Look at the door optic (red/black)  with a video camera and see if there's light in the bullet casing...
If there's a white light in your video camera . then it's a good optic emitter, if not- it's burned out.

Thirdly,
We need to try and fool your MPU into thinking the door is "closed",
That way we can check to see if the cabinet side receiver optic is working...

Turn the power off...

Take a pair of wires (About telephone type size) about 3 or 4 feet long.
Use two colors such as green and red. Pull the optics connectors apart for the moment and store the tails aside.
We need the connectors that go back inside the machine for this...
Stick the green wire into the green receptor of the door optic molex connector.
Then stick the red wire into the red receptor of the door optic molex connector.

Now, with the other 2 ends of your telephone wire, stick the green wire into the green receptor of the cabinet optic molex connector.
Finally, stick the red wire into the white receptor of the cabinet optic molex connector.

Now, with the 2-wire harness all connected to the optic molexes, turn on the power switch of your machine...
the machine now "thinks" your door is closed...
it should run through the "boot up" sequence of:
#1 The fluorescents turning on,
#2 The reels doing their "maiden" spin
#3 The green (sometimes red) light coming on the the coin comparator on the door.
If the green or red light comes on on the coin comparator, that means the game is ready to accept coins.
Drop one coin through the slot on the front of the door and let it fall onto the floor.
Press the spin button...if the machine plays one full game/spin...then you know there's definitely something wrong with the "reciever" (red/white) optic on the cabinet-side...

If, after hooking up this 2-wire harness to your optics blows a fuse on the power supply, that's because you crossed the 2-wire harness into the wrong side of one of the  optic molex connectors...
Don't worry, just replace the fuse and try it again correctly.
Nothing happens to anything else except for the fuse burning...after all, that's what fuses are for!

With all due respect, even if the optics aren't working the game would still operate in the 'test' mode (pressing the button under the coin comparator to put fake credits on the game), right?  If so, I stick by my original hunch and say that it's time to try a known good MPU board to see if the problem goes away.

I will try this tonight,  I really think its the MPU.  I will purchase another MPU on line.  Thanks

Hi, just added a image resizer on the submit a new file. Use this microsoft program to resize your large picture files to make them small enough to post and best of all it is a free file, FREE :wa :wa

I totally agree with you knagl...
it's just that I was trying to get him to to do everything else besides going out and buy another MPU board.
And without getting into on-board repairs and troubleshooting...

Plus, not all the MPU boards on fleabay works either...
I know from before because I bought like a half dozen each (10MHz and 16MHz)
and out of the bunch, only 6 actually had no problems...I don't like those odds...

I found out much better to go purchased used boards from somewhat-reputable sellers.

Our vendors listed on the top of the page here are the best!

Hey Rocket  how come you removed your Posts????

If you can get in the test mode then you can test all of the issues you are having. first and foremost get in the test mode and go to the inputs test. its when you have a 10-1 in the winner paid window. advance to test 13-1 ( either by hitting the service button or with the jackpot keyswitch-----depending what SP chip you have)  then close the door and push down on the latch as if you were going to lock the machine if the 13-1 cycles between 1 and 0  then your optics are working as they should.  then you could advance to the window where your SP ans SS number are displayed  then hit the spin button and your reels should spin and display the three top symbols. 

You could have a open loop in the optics circuit, you could be in the book keeping mode, you could have an open loop in the belly door, any of these will cause the issues you are describing.

Jim

 

I tried the 13-0 test.  The number never changes.  When I go to the ss/sp mode as you stated, the numbers flas, but the reels do not spin and the spin reels button does not light.  I know the button work and lights from other test.  I disconnected the two wires from the switch in the belly glass and still nothing.  The only difference I have noticed is that I actually have sound in the sound test mode which did not happen before.

  if you optics are not working then the machine can never reset. first thing is to get the door optics working. in the cabinet where the optics plug is located, take a ohm meter and check the green wire to ground, I use the machine floor for this (its metal)  you should get continuity on this wire. Then repeat the process on the door optic plug , same results should apply. then you should get con tinunity from green wire to green wire. If not then here is the first part of your problem. 95% of the problems with this circuit were the door lock switch on the bill acceptor cash can door.  or with the belly switch.

At the door led you should read 5VDC  on the other wire, on the cabinet door phototransistor  you should read 8-10VDC .

Jim

Great post Jim...
I actually have fun checking voltages and
resistances with my multimeter on a known good working machine...
without looking at a schematics...
when you do it enough, you get a feel for how much is needed whatever you're checking.

Then when you take a multimeter and
check a machine with problems - you instantly know whats wrong...!
That's where you can take the schematics and double check to see if you're right or not.

It's kinda like when I look at my gas guage in the car when I'm going down the road.
If the needle is on 'E", then I know I gotta go a get some gas!
But if the needle is 3/4's up there or near the "F"...then I'm okay!
I don't always need to look at the driver's manual to tell me that when the needle is on "F" -
that it's full of gas! :96-

Again, great post!...we are lucky to have you here with us at NLG! :89-

can anyone tell me how to bypass cherry switches on a slat top igt i am getting same problem with error messages , i bought this thing and 2 of the switches were gone but i don't need them anyway i know they can be by passed , but don't know what steps. thanks for your help.

Hi,

They are not cherry switches they are optics.

In order to prevent cheating IGT uses a modulated (pulsing) optic. This prevents anyone from trying to blind the optic with intense light. Or easily jumpering across the electronics.

I would recommend replacements. The sending optic is invisible to the naked eye however you can test which ones are shot by using a digital camera. The sending optic will show up as a pulsing light.

Also make sure the optics are aligned. It is common for these to get out of alignment when the machines are shipped.

  :103- i have cherry switchs on bottom door cash box  on slat top door next to reset  key switch, i do however have a blkack line  that looks like a optic under cabinet.. :279-