New Life Games Tech Forums

The problem I had was when I played and hit a payout ( credit pay ) it would stop then start the payout again but this happened every once in awhile. I changed my game chip and noticed the SP chip was not all the way in..When I pushed the SP chip in everything started to work like it should...Just wondering if that SP chip is not all the way in or loose  would that cause this? Hope this makes sense.

Will never mind as soon as I posted this it started again it would just stop and start....MMMMM any suggestions?

Are you talking about the hopper "paying out"?
Is it spitting out coins intermittently?

No it's  when you're playing it will stop then start again...I spin the reels then it stops then starts..Could a bad ground wire cause this??

Did you check the pins on your SS "reel" chip?

Yes the reel chip is seated fine, I have it for credit collect only...When I tightened the ground wire it seemed to work just fine....Just wondering if there is any other things to check? I have just a little knowledge on these machines, but could use a lot of help.....Thanks

I don't quite understand the behavior of the machine, can you post a video of it?

I wish I could....It works great for awhile then all of a sudden the reels stop the display goes off, then it comes back on and the reels spin again....MMMMMM  :103- :103- :103-

Display goes off? Sounds like some kind of a short to me.  Have you taken out the power supply and looked inside it for coins or other loose metallic object inside?  All power supplies I have disassembled have had some sort of coin or objects inside. Might be worth a look inside for you.

Yes I have thanks so much ..All looks great,,,,Good it be the optic not lining up?????

There's a possibility of that, but if it happens with enough frequency, you begin to get 41,42, or 43 errors, at least that's been my experience.  One time I opened the door while the game was playing and got a 41 error that was near impossible to clear.  I had to use a ram clear chip to get the game working again.
Do you have a spare power supply you could try?  Do the lights (Flourescent) go off too, or just the LED display?

The lights do not go off just the display and the reels stop suddenly but soon restart....I do have extra power supplies...Thanks

I bet it's a power problem...if you open the door and close the door during a game, the game will not just continue on - it would error.  BUT, if you un-plug the power from the machine and plug it back in - the game would continue.  But you mention your fluorescent lights stay on.  I bet it's the power cable from the power supply to the motherboard.  This cable is a common problem - and I bet yours is working most of the time.  Check out the link to the post below - it tells you what to look for...

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=4078.msg34231#msg34231 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=4078.msg34231#msg34231)

Dan #2

Dan #2 beat me to it -- I agree 100% -- it's a seemingly common problem and the symptoms match (that the game will restart as if nothing was wrong).  If you can replace the cable that he posted a picture of, I'd bet that your problem would go away.

Thanks I will do that and let you ( y'all ) know........ :137- :139- :139- :139- :139-

Well I just played the machine for about 4 hours with no incident...Maybe it just need reseated???

Keep your fingers crossed though...once it starts acting like that, it will only happen again.
What is going on I think is that the molex for the motherboard is going bad.
The pins are starting to oxidize - giving you intermittent power.
It's best to make another power connector or buy a good used one.
If you give me a day, I can give you all the details on how to
make your own connector and it'll be like brand new!

Mark will also vouch (I hope) that DeOxit by Caig Labs sprayed into the connector may eat up the oxidation. I think Rat Shack sold it at one time.

yes,
but because of the high heat caused from the arcing inside the molex
(That's why they turn brownish color)
the tensile spring strength of the receptor pins are not the same as new ones
which "bite/grab" the motherboard pins better...

Ace Peter   If you feel adventurous!!!

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=2906.msg23785#msg23785 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=2906.msg23785#msg23785)


Jim

Thanks to you all and karma...

Well I put a new ( from another machine ) harness from the power supply to the motherboard and all is working like it should.. I played it for 5 to 6 hours without an issue. Thanks to all for replying... :3- :3- :137-

YeeHoo!  It's running again!
:136- :wa :92-

Hey stayouttadabunker :131- :131- :131- :131- if you get a chance show me how to make one..Thank you that would be great to know.... :131- :131- :131- :131- :131- :131- :131-

Oh, yeah...I forgot hey...
I don't have my molex connectors and receptor pins here with me at home but
I'll get on it sometime Monday at work okay?

Thanks stayouttadabunker looking forward to it...AcePeter :139- :139- :139-

Okay,
Here we go again... :96-
This is how you make an S+ power connector harness between the power supply and the motherboard.
First, you gotta go shopping for parts...
I've listed everything in these links>>>
Motherboard Molex>>>
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/09-50-7061/?qs=jBHU5RPckUrTLh%2feulHi6g%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/09-50-7061/?qs=jBHU5RPckUrTLh%2feulHi6g%3d%3d)
Motherboard Molex Trifurcon receptor pins>>>
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0105/?qs=zi95yC3thwEYobP%2fuWIz0w%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0105/?qs=zi95yC3thwEYobP%2fuWIz0w%3d%3d)
Power Supply 6-pin Molex>>>
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tyco-Electronics/794954-6/?qs=2zUUjv0WDjvsBt6plXOlPA%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tyco-Electronics/794954-6/?qs=2zUUjv0WDjvsBt6plXOlPA%3d%3d)
Power Supply receptor pins>>>
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tyco-Electronics/1586315-1/?qs=%252bRX4mxi9f%2f%252bTk%252bg46T6N3A%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tyco-Electronics/1586315-1/?qs=%252bRX4mxi9f%2f%252bTk%252bg46T6N3A%3d%3d)

You need about 6 feet of 18-22 gauge stranded wire...
(I prefer 18 gauge wire really, because that's what size IGT uses.)
It's better if you can get different colors too!
When you order the pins, get extra and get the ones that are separate/bagged and not on the reels.
The pins on reels are made for machinery that does everything automatically...
those are the wrong kinds to get for these kinds of projects as we're not making thousands of units.
Click on the picture to make it larger and somewhat clearer>>>

Now, here I've cut 6 different colored 18 gauge (AWG) wires about a foot long and stripped the ends.
The second picture is the stripped ends re-cut to 3/16ths of an inch>>>

Now, this is important.
You have to stick the stripped end in far enough so there's a
little bit of vinyl cover past the inside of the outside crimp.
Crimp the inside crimp so the crimped metal tabs are actually facing into the middle of the wires.
Then crimp the outside crimp around the wire covering.>>>

Okay, I got 'em all crimped and now they're ready to go into their respective molexes!>>>

Can you see the numbers on these things? Arghhh!
good thing I have a magnifying glass...LOL

Because of size restrictions,
they put the numbers where ever they felt like it... :25->>>
Lunchtime...I'll be back in a little bit to show you guys where the wires go from molex to molex!

Now, it doesn't matter which color wires goes in into one molex...
make sure the locking tab on the pin is facing the
Molex cut-outs so it locks in when you push it in there!>>>

What does matter though, is how they go into the other Molex...
if you stick them in the wrong hole...
you're gonna have problems... :72-
(Same theory also applies to lovemaking... okay, scratch that...some people are kinky...:96-)

The locking tabs on the power supply side are different from the motherboard Molex receptor pins.
There are two tiny little tabs and if you look inside the power supply molex, you'll see the two tiny slots.
They only go in one way!

For the sake of thing's...because I 've already stuck them into the motherboard Molex -
Let's put them in from the motherboard Molex to the power Molex>>>

Motherboard side: #1 goes to #4. Power Supply Side
           "             #2 goes to #5.             "
           "             #3 goes to #6.             "
           "             #4 goes to #1.             "
           "             #5 goes to #3.             "
           "             #6 goes to #2.             "
         

I wrapped the wires about an inch from each end and in the middle with electrical tape.
I prefer to use plastic zip ties but I'm all out of them.
This will work until I get some more zip ties.

 :3- :3- :3- :3- :3- :3- :3- :131- AWESOME I already ordered my supplies.... :131- :3- :3- :3- :3- :3- :3- :3- :3-

oh...that's good Ace!
I'm sorry I took so long to answer your question but
I wanted to get it right! :89-
Have fun with it...
just don't start a factory, hire some immigrants and sell thousands of harnesses... :72-

MMMMMMMMMM Good Ideal! :137- :137- :208-

Bunker,

K+ for sharing in such detail, and being so helpful!  :3- :3- :3- :131- :3- :3- :3-

How much are you going to sell them for!  :208-

CH :95-

 :72- I ain't selling 'em!   :5-

By the way, I had a machine with problems,
threw in this harness I just made this morning and the machine works great!

Also, I cleaned the pins on the motherboard with
some spray metal contact cleaner and rubbed an eraser on them too.
It takes a little more effort to push the motherboard Molex back onto
the motherboard pins because the tension of the receptor pins are much stronger when new!

Another great job of documentation Stout!  :131- :3- :3- 
Just think: in three or four weeks you'll be taking over as the top poster!  :89- :71-
I'm so proud of my protégé that I need a Kleenex. :8- :8-  SF :31-  ...Oh wait, that's just my allergies flaring up again...  :96-  :72- :72- :72- :72-
(of course, if we count the posts from the old forum, you still have a ways to go yet... :97-)


Hey, sell as many original harnesses as you want AcePeter, as long as you don't start selling photocopies of them. :30- :190- :126-

Darn it, I just made 1000 photocopies..."OH WELL" :8- :8-

haha...I never planned to make this many posts when I first came onto NLG...
it just turned out that way :5-

Anyways, I love trying to making posts that will help future members...
The hardest part is finding the exact parts at the electronics distributors...Arghh!
When looking for parts, I usually have to search through about
4 or 5 different places before I come up with something that works.
But in the end, it's usually a lot cheaper and more fun to make your own stuffffffff!!!! :91-

HEY!!! got my supplies going to make a few and report BACK!!!!! Thanks stayouttadabunker for all the info.......