New Life Games Tech Forums

                   I posted two pics, the first one shows the board with part # 341-002-10B which is working on one of my progressive S5500 machines. On my other machine I have the board with part # 341-001-80, now it used to work when it was connected to two other computer boxes that did a custom lettering display where you can put your own wording on it and alternate between the jackpot # and your custom wording. Here is the problem, when the wording stopped working I sent one of the two computer boards in for repair and after 3 years I never got it back and the person had only excuses every time I called in to check on the progress. Needless to say I gave up. Anyone here know a Bill Mayer in Arizona? well that's the person who has my missing parts. Anyway at this point I don't care about the custom wording and want the progressive part to work. Can the part# 341-001-80 still work without the custom computer boxes? I did notice two things, one, there are jumper wires underneath the board going across the chips and second, there are wires configured differently compared to my other machine. The differences is are two wires are connected to the relay control connector and the other two are connected to the 6 prong on the lower right whereas the one working with the 341-002-10b has all the wires going to the relay control connection area. I hope anyone can understand what I wrote. Would it just be simple to buy another  341-002-10B board and rewire like my other working machine? would it need to be reprogrammed? if so I've never done reprogramming nor do I know how. I don't have and software either if it needs it. Any help is very appreciated. Thanks

                           Another related question, with either one of these led progressive displays work with either one of the Mikohn boards? The first pic showing the back of the led board goes to part # 341-001-80. Just wanted to know if it will work with part # 341-002-10B. I noticed the plugs are identical, but noticed the back of the led boards uses different chips and the layout on the back is different but the front display is identical.

I can't tell from the pics, since the labels are obscured, but that looks like a link extension device and it would use a display that has 12 of the individual rectangular LED assemblies on it. Once again, due to the quality of the pictures, I can't tell for sure but it looks like your displays are made up of 14 of the LED assemblies. Am I correct on the number? Can you post a better pic of the label on the left side of the board?

                                       Hope this is better, if not I'll have to take more closer pics when I get the chance to get to the boards again.

              Forgot to add, the one with the zip ties has 12 sections using the computer board part # 341-002-10B and the other led board uses 14 sections for part # 341-001-80. Does this mean you cannot interchange led boards? I really want my 341-001-80 to work with the 14 led board but due to a missing computer board it is not working. This missing computer board was used to put custom messages but now I'm without it. Can I still get my progressive to work without it by reconfiguring the wires?

Are the Cells 8 x 5?

                       I'm not clear on the cell size? you mean each led block size? centimeters? I'm new on this so there is a lot I do not know.

Each LED block in number of LED's per row and column.
I should have posted 5 x 8 but swapped them for some reason.
I know my 12 Cell display is 12 cells that are 5 columns by 8 rows which is display size of 60.
It will matter when you do the configuration of the board directly with the switches on the controller.

                                I took pictures of the board I need configured to my S5500. This board also was connected directly to my led board containing the 8 x 5 led units with 14 cells. Just not sure which wires should connect to the board and which wires go to the machine. This was the machine that had the custom computer box removed. I don't care for it so I'm trying to see if we can do without it. Also notice the yellow jumper wires. Is this done at factory or was this a modification done to make  custom scrolling words appear?

It is strange for those yellow wires to be soldered there on the solder-side of the board.
Those could have just been repairs for bad traces...
do the traces on top look scored or scratched?
There's a NLG member by the name of John Acres that might know more about the yellow wiring.

Then again, those could be hardware revisions. I've seen many like that from that era.

I have never thought of looking underneath my board to see if anything is wired up like that...Hmm?

                               There are traces purposely cut and not for reconnecting the traces. The wires are crossing over to other parts of the chip. Is this board even used at all? should I reconnect the cut trace to bring back to the original and see if this board can be reused? Or should I buy another board similar to my other board that's working. The led board is different though. They are both 8 x 5 cells but one has 12 blocks and the other has 14 blocks, could this make a difference between using different Mikohn boards? I don't know what to do at this point except trying to find a similar board like the one that is working on my other machine and rewiring the connections to the machine. I only don't know if did that if it will work on my led board now that is has 14 blocks instead of 12.

                  What is the part # of your board, does it look like the one I have? anyone use the board like the one I have posted with the dipswitches? Please take a look under the board of yours to see if it looks like it has been jumpered like the one I have. The only difference in the one I have is that it had another computer box which is now gone forever, used to be for programming custom scrolling words on the led board. It was cool when it worked but later it failed weeks later after turning back on the machine. Anyone know a Bill Mayer? He used to sell a few machines out of Arizona. He sold me the machine and has never returned my parts I sent in for repair. This has been over 3 years ago. I'm stumped

the Display with 12 cells is 60 size and the one with 14 is 70 size.
You just have to set the display size when you do the configuration on the board.

              Unfortunately I don't know how to do that and also I don't know what is up with the board with the jumper wires. Do you know which wires go to that board and where they are wired up on the machine. I believe there are 3 or 4 wires that go to the machine, but if my memory serves me right, only 3 wires get used.

The circuit board is a LED5 also known as a Cham1.
LED = Link Extension device.

There are 2 sets of white wire connectors. The 2 pin one at the end next to the LED (lamp) connects to a CON1 controller and this is the data input.
The other 3pin is for power from the power supply it usually sits on.
The 9pin connector is just there for show. It has no function.

There is also a ribbon cable connector that feeds the meter (LED display).
The LED display gets both power and whatever signal it needs via this ribbon cable.

With respect to the meter (LED display) that is fused to your glass. If it has the same ribbon cable connector then it is likely for the Cham1 (LED5).
If the ribbon connector looks like it is a different size and there is a 2 wire power connector about dead center of the display then this meter (LED display) is for a ChamII or ChamII+
Sorry I could not make out connectors and such on the pictures of the display or I would have been more definative.

Hope this helps.

Is there an echo in here? :103-

 :79- :97- :97- :97-

Jay knows all the oldy moldy goldy stuff! :208- :208-

I wish I could find the manuals for this stuff, it's probably the only equipment I'm lacking documentation on. :60- :71-

                   OK, on the board, the 4 pin connector is used for power and the 3 pin connector is not used so that is where I think you may be wrong on as my other board that is working is configured the same way for power and the 3 pin is not used at all. On this board it has been modified I believe so I'm not sure it will work right as it was designed to work with a missing computer box, but I'm not sure if this board could still work the way it is or do I have to remove the yellow wires and put this the way it originally was but I haven't received and answer on that. Also for the 2 pin connector, where do these go?  for example on the two pin and lets say pin #1 is on the left side on top of the led and pin #2 is on the right side of the led, where do these go on the machine. I believe they go to the board in the back of the machine where it says relay controller. What pin # from left to right does the wires go to from the Mikohn board? Now this is assuming the Mikohn board is fine the way the yellow wires are. I'll take a closer look of the ribbon cable  and connection to see if they are different on both machines.

                                  OK taking another look from what you mentioned both my displays uses the 20 pin ribbon cable so they are both Cham 1. But were working on this one particular board with the yellow wires under the board. While I was checking my other machine I also noticed under the Mikohn board, that too has jumper wires as well but it did not come with an additional modified computer board to do custom wording like the one I need fixed. The board pictured does mate with the led board in the first place as they worked until I shipped out the box for repairs but that is long gone. All I need now is to see how I can get this existing board wired up to the machine. I just don't know what wire goes where to get it working as far as data wires go. It does power up the led board and keeps saying C1, Empty, and seldomly C3 and only because the wiring is not setup correctly due to the missing computer box. So far the only thing I've learned is the Mikohn board is called Cham 1 as well as the led board and the 9 pin does nothing.

            Now all I need to know is if the yellow jumper wires should be left alone and that is the way the factory set it up? second, what data wires should be connected to the Mikohn/ cham 1 board and where do they connect to on the machine. I noticed the wires could go to either to the relay connection area or the Bal Line. I hope this time we can get this working. I don't know what else to mention as I believe all the details are now mentioned from the led cells, how many blocks, what type of ribbon cable, type of Mikohn board. Just missing the answers I was looking for which are the first two mentioned and after that which I hope it doesn't need is the programming to get it to work properly. I hope I can come close to getting this to work. I do appreciate all your help, I just want to get this out of the way after over 3 years of putting it aside.

It seems that it hasn't been mentioned that your displays won't work as progressive meters without a CON1 or a CON2 controller (I'm not sure which, as I'm not a Mikohn expert).  That's your "computer box" that is missing and/or was stolen by the person you sent it to for repair.  The boards/displays you have will not do progressive functions on their own -- they need a controller unit to drive them.

As far as your boards go, if they were working at one point with those yellow wires there, leave them be.

                          On my other machine the setup is the same and the progressive works.  I think there may be some confusion. My other machine working has the Mikohn board that goes straight to the machines board and that's it! it works perfect. On my other machine I just happen to have a different part # board that is going straight to the led board as it always has, just before there was another box that was also attached to the existing Mikohn board that is missing. I doubt that box was anything necessary to get the progressive working as my other progressive machine is working without this missing computer box. I may have had something most have never seen as I have never seen this in casinos either doing custom scrolling sentences. This was a custom job done by the seller. I just want this to work normally with this existing Mikohn board. I can't seem to get a clear answer to this. What is this Con1 Con2 controller? My other progressive machine is working fine with the Mikohn board wired straight to the Relay plug on the back of the machine. The only difference between the two machines is the Mikohn boards and just needs rewiring. If I had another board like the one working it should be easy for me to figure out but since the two Mikohn boards are different, the wiring configuration will surely be different as the working machine has like 8 pin plug wired to the relay plug in area of the back of the machine whereas the one I have needing configuration has only a 2 pin connector. If only someone here would have the same board as I have shown can just tell me where the wires go to the main board on the machine, I think it will be much easier. No one has been able to tell me if the jumper wires are normal, seems most people don't check underneath the boards they have.

                     I think if someone can post pictures of where to connect the wires to and from my existing Mikohn board, it would be so much easier. Isn't the so called Con 1 or Con 2 controller the Mikohn board that sits on top of the power supply? On my other progressive machine, it's simply that, and the Mikohn board has only 3 wires that go to the relay connector on the back of the main machine and the progressive works like it should.

To the best of my knowledge... if you have one that's working with just the silver metal box (power supply) and the Mikohn board mounted on top of it, that's a ChamII+ -- look on the labels for that board for "ChamII+" and/or "SA" and/or "Stand Alone" and/or "Stand".  That one is designed to do what it's currently doing -- operate in an independent "stand alone" mode where it doesn't need anything else to operate as a progressive.  The one you pictured with the "link" indication on the label cannot do stand-alone operation -- it needs a controller.

A CON1 or a CON2, again to the best of my knowledge, is in a metal enclosure and has connectors for multiple boards/displays.  They do not look like the equipment you've pictured in this thread.

                                    Ok I'm learning more about this. Yes my other machine that is working has a chip that says stand alone so I guess that is why it does not need this Com 1 box I've been hearing. OK now I have posted this picture of this box that was also connected to the Mikohn board that sits on top of the power supply, what is this box? now this use to work before I had sent out this computer box. So basically it was a 3 pc. setup. The Mikohn board that sits on top of the power supply, this new picture that it connects to, and the missing box I sent out. I have no picture of it and barely remember what it looks like. Would it be easier to just buy a stand alone then trying to find this missing box or can I do without this missing box and only need this board I have just shown?

                               Also what does this box do? I has 3 nine pin connections,  one input, one output and one that says chameleon programming. Can I link this to my other machine to work both progressive machines?

                      This is the picture of the standalone board that is working fine on my other machine.

Compare the 2 boards, other than the labeling and wiring mods are they identical?

I have no idea what I am talking about....lol....

But do not assume that just because your board has the yellow jumper wires on the bottom that it has been customized in some way.  Boards come from the manufacturer like this all the time - it just means they figured out an issue or a better way to do something after the board was made but before the board was shipped to the customer.  Your board is probably a standard board without any customization.  IGT MPU boards come with those type of jumper wires all the time.  It does not necessarily signify that it is something custom.

Dan #2

                        The two boards are completely different as you can see in the pics. One board is a standalone where the other board needs the missing module or Con 1 or Con 2 board.    I believe I found a person who happens to have a standalone board available but I would like to get this one to work where it does need the Con 1 or Con 2 board. The last picture showing the square computer board with in and out 9 pin plugs, is this so you can link to another progressive machine? This was used in the machine that doesn't use the stand alone Mikohn board. I just happened to be missing one computer board that was sent out years ago that I have not got back yet. Anyone have any pictures of how it looks like because I dont' remember. All I remember is it was encased in an aluminum box. Anyone have any pics?

It's my guess that the mystery board you posted would be used to link multiple slots or controllers together, but again I'm no Mikohn expert and I haven't seen that board before.

Here are some pictures I found of a CON1 that was previously sold on eBay -- it matches your description of "an aluminum box":

(http://i35.tinypic.com/iwtdhh.jpg)

(http://i37.tinypic.com/14uu8uu.jpg)

(http://i37.tinypic.com/erlvn9.jpg)

...and for good measure a Con2i:
(http://i33.tinypic.com/2iicz6c.jpg)


I do think you'd be better off finding and buying another stand-alone ChamII+ unless you really want to and plan to link all your machines together with a common jackpot.  It seems to me that the CON1/2 link setup is more complex than most home users want to deal with.

Here is  thread that documents the hook up......
Its between a CON1 and a LED4 (Cham44).
The LED4 board looks a bit different but its the same 2 wire hookup to the CON1.

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=3686.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=3686.0)

                                   I attached a pic of the square aluminum computer box which looks similar to the one on top of the larger box. Is it like the one I posted? Mine does not say Con 1 but rather Checksum and Gateway. What is this box I have do?

                   Seems everytime someone shows a board, they look different from what I have so this keeps getting confusing for me.

That's a gateway, not a CON1.

That converts signals between the machine and the controller and is necessary if the machine and controller do not both use the same protocol.

                               OK I see. I found a person selling a stand alone board and I'm thinking of going that route to make things simple. Do I have to program it after it gets installed or is it ready to go? Any resetting should be done before using it?

It depends on your definition of simple.

The "board" is probably a ChamII+
Make sure it comes with a power supply.
You will also need the matching meter (LED display) and connecting ribbon cable for it - the ones you have are not compatiable with a ChamII+

You will also need to build the 3 wire wiring harness between the board and the slot.
You will also need a copy of PSP to program it - same program also used for CON1, CON2
The serial cable between the PC and the CHAMII+ is also slightly modified from stock.
WIth respect to the PC you use - Windows98 is best as PSP is DOS program - XP usually works and Vista is 50/50 depending on your hardware.

                                       I already have the power supply, now I have no software program. Wiring or soldering is not an issue. Now matching LED display, that I'm not sure about. What type of display can only work? The current display has the same ribbon cord, no more, no less in pin configuration. The LED board has 15 cells 8 x 5 leds in each. Is this board not going to work? The board I'm trying to get is a stand alone version. The only thing I can see different is the led board has 2 more cell blocks than my other progressive that is using the stand alone board.

http://www.newlifegames.net/uploads/up/PSPv2.0.zip (http://www.newlifegames.net/uploads/up/PSPv2.0.zip)

This will take you to the PSP program in the "Submit File Section" of NLG

                       Thanks!

You're very welcome modman! :89-

Lets start at the beginning.

There are several ways to get a Mikohn progressive working.
There are Standalone controllers and Link Controllers.
Then there are Link Extension devices which connect to contollers to drive displays.
Then there are gateways which do signal conversions

I will try and outline the various components.


Standalone controller.
                                
                                      +==== Meter
                                      |                        
PC (with PSP) -----------> ChamII+ --------------------3 wire harness to slot.
                        (mounted on powersupply)



Link Controller (called a CON1 --- con stands for controller)
There are various revs of the CON1 ... some are designed for connection to 1 slot - (not sure why as this seems like a lot of trouble for 1 slot)
Some are for  4 slots, 16, and 32. They are all pretty much the same other than the number of pins on the connector.
The advantage of the CON1 is that you have multiple slots connected and multiple displays.
In my configuration I have 3 slots, each with a LED5 & display then two large overhead signs.



                                      ---- 2 wire harness to slot #3....etc up to 32 slots
                                      ---- 2 wire harness to slot #2
PC (with PSP) -----> Con1  ---- 2 wire harness to slot #1.
                             |  | |  
                             |  | |  
                             |  | |
                             |  | |             +==== Meter
      Wall Wart---------+  | |             |
     powersupply          | +----------LED 5  (also known as a Cham1 based on the etching on the board)
                                |        (mounted on powersupply)
                                |
                                |              +==== large Overhead Meter
                                |              |
                                +----------LED 4    (also known as a Cham44 based on the etching on the board)
                                         (mounted on powersupply)


Link Controller expanded with a GATEWAY
The purpose of the gateway is to provide a Data Return line to the video poker (or video slot) so you can get on screen display of the progressive amount.
The gateway can also be used to get the progressive amount on the Winner Paid LED's on the S+ slots but since this only shows up when the progressive is hit I haven't bothered


                                      ---- 2 wire harness to Slot 3
                                      ---- 2 wire harness to PE+ Video Poker------------------------------------------------+
                                     ---- 2 wire harness to slot #2                                                                                  |
PC (with PSP) -----> Con1  ---- 2 wire harness to slot #1                                                                                  |
                            | | | |                                                                                                                           |
                            | | | |                                                                                                                           |
                            | | | |                                                                                                                            |
                            | | | |             +==== Meter                                                                                           |
      Wall Wart---------+| | |             |                                                                                                              |
     powersupply        | | +----------LED 5  (also known as a Cham1 based on the etching on the board)                    |
                              | |        (mounted on powersupply)                                                                                 |
                              | |                                                                                                                               |
                              | |              +==== large Overhead Meter                                                                       |
                              | |              |                                                                                                                |
                              | +----------LED 4    (also known as a Cham44 based on the etching on the board)                   |
                              |          (mounted on powersupply)                                                                                  |
                              |                                                                                                                                  |
                             +---------Gateway ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

CON2 "SuperController" Link
The CON2 supports Mystery Progressives, as well as 8 levels compared to just 4 of the CON1 - Most people never use more than 1 or 2 levels.
You will note that due to the 3 wire harness nothing like a gateway is required.

                                     ---- 3 wire harness to slot #3....etc up to 32 slots
                                     ---- 3 wire harness to slot #2
PC (with PSP) -----> Con2 ---- 3 wire harness to slot #1.
                             |  | | 
                             |  | | 
                             |  | |
                             |  | |             +==== Meter
AC Powercord---------+  | |             |
                                | +----------ChamII  (Note Non + version)
                                |        (mounted on powersupply)
                                |
                                |              +==== large Overhead Meter
                                |              |
                                +----------Supreme  ----------------------------------------------------PC with Downloader software to install animation sequences
                                         (mounted on powersupply)

                     It appears then I'm missing the link controller, the part I sent out and never got back. So now the Gateway, why was this needed then? the only thing I can think of is that on the led screen, it had a custom phrase that I had ask for installed where it would alternate between the current jackpot and the custom phrase. On your diagram it shows going to a video poker which I don't have. This is where I'm not sure if the Gateway is needed if I don't care for the custom wording. But then again you mentioned that when jackpot is kit it is used to show the winning amount which is nice to have. So without the Gateway if you hit jackpot it will not show the winning amount? Also when you mention meter, are you talking about the tiny mechanical numbers inside the head of the slot machine or the actual dotted led board that shows the progressive amount? I'm starting to understand but need more details.

Forgetting about the gateway......(for a second). The meter (the LED dot matrix display) will show you the progressive amount + whatever wording you want. When someone hits the jackpot the "overhead" meter alternates between what has been won on what machine ..... and the new reset value that continues to increment for the other players.... The in-machine meter for the machine that won is frozen at the jackpot value - the other machines in-machine meters read the new lower progressive value.

My Meter scrolls and says "Welcome to Jays Irish Pub and Casino...."progressive value" .... Join our Pot of Gold players club .... "progressive value"... where everyone is a winner...."progressive value" .... We would like to thank our recent winners Mrs Chu with 600 coins on Double Diamond Deluxe. ....."progressive value" ....etc etc etc..

You don't need a gateway for any of the above...

On the video poker... the default win for a full house is 4000 coins. When you have it in progressive mode it says Jackpot. When you add in the gateway the word jackpot is replaced by the value on the progressive.

if you also connect up the gateway to the S+'s when you hit the jackpot the Winner Paid shows the progressive value.... your not really losing anything by not having this connected as you have your other displays that are showing the progressive amount.

                           OK so basically with only having a Con 1 board, I can put the custom wording and not needing the gateway. I have a couple questions, I was thinking about buying a stand alone board but will it work on a 14 cell 5 x 8 led cell? also will I be able to program custom lettering on this type of board? If not then I'm probably better off finding a Com 1 board. Where can I find one? what is the actual name of the board if I went looking for one? probably need a part # better?

The unit is a "Mikohn CON1i" (not COM). The "i" indicates its for IGT.  It looks like a metal box with a external wall wart. If you don't get the wall wart (power supply) you can always pick one up at Radio Shack so don't let the absence of the power supply be a detractor. Last time I checked Joey (NLG phone number on the home page) had a number of them.

April (see april slot sales on the home page) usually has one or two kicking around her shop as well. Her button takes you to her ebay sales so if there is not one up there any of her ads have her phone number give her a call. In both cases let people know you were referred from NLG as you typically get better pricing.

I concur that getting a CON1 seems like the logical path to follow here.

The "meter" you have is designed for the LED5 (Cham1) assuming the ribbon cable fits both ends. I never did see a picture of the connector.

If you pick up a ChamII+ (standalone board) which is mounted over its power supply the meter for these (albiet being similar same dimensions to the LED5 meter) is electrically different and the ribbon cable has a different number of pins. So you will want to get a complete ChamII+ along with the matching meter. if you go that direction.

In both cases - CON1 or ChamII+ you can program the words and progressive amounts in your choice of colors. You can scroll left, right, up, down, flash, fade and dance.

if you want animation you need to go for a CON2 and a Supreme (lots of bucks).

Not to threadjack, but I was under the impression that a ChamII+ could do stand-alone PE+ poker stuff, too, no?

Yes it can.
The ChamII+ is a 3 wire setup so it displays the progessive value.

The gateway is just there to compensate for the short commings of the con1

                       Today I loaded the PSP program in my laptop and connected the 9 pin port and got the screen to react but what I don't know how to do is load messages in the message programming and save. When I hit the send button it ask for a 6 digit or letter code which I don't have and it just says Password bad or low priority. The only messaging I was able to program was the demo.do but now my progressive is no longer working anymore.  How do I program a message and get it to go back and forth to the progressive amount and the message?. Now I have the program, I just don't know how to load messages and save or execute it. Any help greatly appreciated....

           Bob

When you startup PSP you need to select CON1 from the list it should then prompt for a password. The default is 135642... followed by a F10

haha...I always thought it was "123456"...somehow it works on mine.... :96-


ADD>>> ok, ok...I changed it again... :72-

That is what I said U fool (using my best french pink panther accent !)

Actually I did transpose a number or two.... (fixed).

Not fast enough for the Ninja edit... :187-

                    OK, now I got in and set the current jackpot but the numbers are more spaced out than it was before, how do I bring it close together? also between the current jackpot and messaging, it takes a couple minutes or more before the messaging comes out. How do I set the space time. Also I noticed before the messaging comes out, it will alternate between current jackpot and 00 a few times every 30 seconds or so. How do I get rid of that. So far things are coming along and learning.

There is two sets of messages.
The first is contained in the series of JPOT.DO (jpot1, jpot2, etc) and these are the played while the progressve is active (being played).
The second set of messages (contained in Mess.do) only pop up when the machine has idled out.
There is no control over the amount of time between the JPOT.DO and the MESS.DO.

Under the JPOT.DO you have control over the spacing (single or double width) or perhaps someone left spaces betwen each character.

You may want to look at the DEMO.DO for PSP syntax.

Doing the Prequel ..... who did you get your CON1 from and if you are comfortable in sharing ..... what did you pay ?

              I'm currently playing with a standalone board I have now, no Con 1 board.  I'm getting another stand alone board from a person I found on Ebay, his name is Barry. I'm getting a hopper board for $6, led board for $10, and the standalone board for $25 if my memory serves me right. I'm waiting for the bill as I told him I needed the parts shipped out today. I most likely get a Con 1 board to work on my other machine. I'm getting another standalone board just in case I can't figure out how to get my other machine back together when I do get the missing part ( Con 1 board) purchased and installed.

if this is a ChamII+ then please ignore some of my previous post.

The ChamII+ does not support the "time out / Idle " messages. You only have access to what is in each of the Jackpot files. What is displayed is controlled by the Speed Command, followed by a number.

            How do I tell which one I have? I don't see any marking on the board showing which one it is.

A CON1 is in a silver box with an external power supply (wall wart).
A CHAMII+ sits ontop of a power supply.

             Ok, the one I have is a standalone which sits on top of the power supply so that makes it a cham II+ then. My other machine is a Con 1 because it uses an external power supply. Thanks for the information.

                    Ok, now I realize the board I have is a Cham II. On idle it alternates between current jackpot and message every 3 or so minutes.  Is that how it is supposed to work?

I think we determined that your other unit with the external power supply was a Gateway (which is almost a perfect square box) and that you had sent your CON1 away never to be seen again .... but you still had the powersupply.
The gateway has about 3 to 4 sets of inputs on one side labled Bally, IGT, Aristocat etc and then the same on the opposite side for output.,

The CON1 is a rectangular box.....

The programming on your CHAMII+ (note the plus as that makes it standalone) determines the message and the frequency. There are 4 JPOTx.DO files named 1 thru 4 and a fifth which is just JPOT.DO

You need to look at these files... and compare the symbols in there with the characters above.

Normally it will start off with something like:
 [block mode] [speed]22 [progressive]0 [Travel Mode]Win Big at Modmans Casino [block mode][flash] [speed]9 Megabucks

Block mode is not written in text it is symbol....
The Block Mode centers the information while Travel Mode makes things scroll by

Speed is a symbol and the number that follows it determines how long something hangs around. Smaller is faster.

[Progressive]0 is the first progressive. On a ChamII+ and a CON1 you can have 4 levels of progressive on a Con2 you can have 8
So this command will display the progressive amount from Jackpot 0. I think the symbol for a Progressive is the spade.

[FLash] makes the info flash - this only works in block mode.... Dance works in travel mode.


Assuming this is all you have the sequence will then repeat.
If you had this in Jpot1.do .... it would then execute what is in Jpot2.do then jpot3.do etc.....

            I tried to get the other message programming to work after the F9 but couldn't get it to work such as S-F1. Is there a special sequence to get it to work? Also if you want to program the function such as speed or effect does the command have to be before or after the message or word?

It needs to be before.....

Some of the items need a Value after the command

For instance if you did [Speed]Hello World
You would lose the H and just get ELLO WORLD.

Once again your best guide would be to look over the DEMO file provided.

I agree with Jay, the demo file has every sequence in order...
If you don't use the demo as your "template" -
your messages will NOT come out the way you want them to.

                      OK, I'll have to try that. Now I got home today to plug the board back up to the computer and now the progressive numbers aren't working. I don't know what I did wrong or did not do. I did the clear on the machine but that didn't work. The only thing I did is play with the jackpot numbers. The one good thing that is working is the messaging but now I lost the progressive from climbing every time I spin the wheel :(

                  I mean plug the board back up to the slot machine....

             I played with the keyboard and figured the S is for shift and the C is for Control. I was actually pressing the actual letters S and C, no wonder why I couldn't get it to work. So on my board (Cham II+) the Mess. Do  is not going to work for my board correct? if that is the case all I'm down to is to figure out how to set and get my progressive to go up in #'s every time I spin the wheels. Now I was thinking, the actual slot machine does not have to be programmed for this as this was the actual machine controlling this Cham unit correct. I was thinking the 3 wires are for triggering the Cham such as increments, Jackpot, and I'm not sure what the third one is except for possibly a reset trigger?  I think this would be the last step to getting the basics of this unit working correctly. Many thanks for all your help, I'm learning more from you guys every time.

I used to think the 3rd wire was to reset the meter.
I don't remember actually but I know this...the machine needs at least two wires to increment the display.
It works by the machine "closing" the circuit.
Every time a coin is dropped into the slot, one wire is sending down
each credit you put into the machine by "closing" the circuit.
When the machine "hits" the jackpot - what's happening is the machine "closes" that
same wire for more than 3 or 4 seconds and
causes the display to halt on the jackpot amount.
The 3rd extra wire?
My guess is that it's really used for sending info back to the cham and
CON in case of a "lower secondary jackpot" such as when there's two displays
hooked up on a machine?
It's been awhile...
Anyways, the wires coming from the machines motherboard to the CON.
using a piece of wire, touch the furthest two pins and the display should
roll/add one credit each time you touch the two pins.

CHAMII+ User Manual, Page 33 for IGT Vision, S+ and PE:

White wire (serial return)
Black wire (common)
Red (coin in)

Ron (r273)

Excellent post on the purpose of each wire r273!  :3- :3-

You are correct MESS.DO does not work with a ChamII+

The machine DOES need to be programmed for LINK progressive.

On older game chips you had to flip Switch 5 on the MPU board.
However given that you did a clear and it stopped working I can rule out the fact that you have older game chips (otherwise it would still be working).

From our home page click on RICKS FAQs there will be instructions on how to find out what GAME chip number you have.
You then refer to the PSR (Program Summary Report) that corresponds to your game chip to determine what you need to change.

If you POST your game chip some kind sole will probably email you a PSR. If you are not familar with PSRs (and they are not straight forward)
You might want to go to our Upload section and R273 has written a SIMPLIFIED S+ setup guide that will step you through.

To prove that your progressive is working and it is the SLOT you can short the COIN-IN and GND wires for about 1/8th of a second and it will increment.
Holding them together longer triggers a jackpot.

                    I did check the output of the wires that go to the standalone and it does register so at least I know the machine is working correctly. It's down to the programming of the standalone which I'm not sure how to program. Does it have anything to do with the odometer speed?

I think it does, but also the spacing you put in between the words
will determine how it comes out on the display.
Try making a simple message first with just 3 short maybe up to 7 letter words.
(When I get mad, I like using four letter words...LOL)
Put only one space between the words and
run it to see how it displays on the panels.
Then, change the message by putting like 20 spaces between the 3 words and
send that to the controller and see how it looks.
Once you try this, you'll get a better idea of how to program your words and stuff. :89-


When I first got these Mikohn displays...I played with the programming for hours upon hours....
sending, re-writing, sending, re-writing, etc....
eventually you'll get it to display exactly the way you want it to!!!!
Then you'll HAVE to show us a short video of what you did! :96-

NO. The odometer speed is only for the Odometer effect in the message programming. (numbers appear to scroll like an odometer).

You need to set the progressive basics.

1. Current Jackpot. This is the amount the jackpot is at now.
2. Base or Reset Amount. This is the amount the jackpot resets to after its won. Normally this is set as the same amount as the regular top award.
3. Contribution percentage. I set this at 4% for my quarter machines. It subsequently goes up 1c for each coin played.
4. Limit. I usually set mine to 9999999.99 (max 9's) otherwise if you set it to $1200 it will never go above 1200

5. Denomination. 25C this should match the machine. If this is set wrong you will get a wrong contribution. Ie if you set it to 1c .... then 4% of 1c is not going to increment very fast.

There is also a setting to choose between $$ or Coins. I prefer to use $$ as coins does not have any decimials.

Also remember anytime you change this stuff you should hit the F1 Send otherwise it doesn't become active.

Thanks Jay,
You are exactly right...

 "odometer" :25- :25- :25- what was I thinking?   :97-

                     I did check out the FAQ section but only mentions about IGT machines. I didn't see anything in regards to my S5500. Is it important to know what game chip I have in the machine even though the machine is sending out pulsed to the standalone? It appears the standalone needs to be programmed correctly since I messed around with the progressive #'s. If the game chip is important, how do I determine what type on my S5500?  There is an area in the PSP program that shows something like slow to medium , medium to fast  and digits you can change. I believe the denomination is incorrect, that may be the case. I'll take a look at it again.

                                  I played around with the program some more but no luck. I changed the denomination to .25 since the machine is setup that way. I didn't see a percentage area. I did the amount of coins needed to change the numbers to 2 coins minimum, still nothing.  There are other areas I'm not familiar with like the machine type M00, M01, etc. Since this machine originally worked together with this standalone board and it's a quarter machine, how should the settings look like for the PSP program?  An example should help out I think. Thanks....

The "Jpot.do" and the "Demo.do" files should NOT look like this if you've changed it...
these files are the default way it comes with the PSP program>>>

The demo.do in it's original form.
Click on it to see the writing clearer>>>

                The Jpot do does look like that but not the Demo.Do   The Demo.do does look like your second pic. I did confirm the trigger inputs on pin 1 and pin 5 on the standalone board that when you touch both inputs for about 3 seconds the sign shows winner and then back to the starting jackpot. I then touched them again for a second and it went back to the base value. Now you say on the Jpot.do, how should it look like?

uh, .... exactly like the first picture I put up....  :89-


If you hit the F3 twice,
I think it erases everything you did and goes back to the original default programming that came with PSP.

Then you can start over and write new messages the way they should be written according to the demo.do file.

             
              I figured how the messaging works. The Demo.do file looks correct (factory setting) the jpot.do looks like your pic but you say that is not the way it is supposed to look like? I tried to reset the board by pressing F3 but nothing changed. By resetting it, would the trigger input change progressive #'s each time the wires are closed?

                    OK I think you are talking about erasing the message programming right? I have the messaging figured out, the part I'm trying to get working is the progressive to move each time the wires on the standalone board is triggered. As of now only the jackpot 3 sec. trigger is working. Just now got to figure how to get the programming correct to activate the coin drop trigger or each time the wheel spins.  For example my machine is setup for .25   I put the base at 250. current jp 250. - 00000's on hiddenJP, jp limit 9,999,999,99,  increment 1  01 increment 2 00's.   Below it is the F4 button, I don't know what the setting should be, currently it is set at M-00.  Next is the multiple controller setup. I don't know how these should be set as well.

yes, in the manual...I think the F4 should be set at "M05"?
I'll check back in a minute


ADD>> Page 71 of the PSP Tech Manual  for Machine types.

                        I did the setting a M-05 but that didn't work.

Keep momentarirly touching those wires together (without triggering a jackpot) over and over again. The progressive should increment. 
If it does not increment this way then I suspect you still have your %% values for the progressive wrong.
If it does increment this way but not when its configured in the slot then you need to program the slot.

What Game chip are you running ?


The M05 and such is for timing. If its wrong (no matter the value) the progressive still increments but may not trigger into a Jackpot properlly if its wrong.

              I'm at work with the standalone, powersupply and led board playing around with it. The machine is at home but I don't know how to tell which game chip I have. I don't have and IGT but a Bally S5500.   Momentarily tapping the two wires did not do anything but holding them together for 3 seconds hit the winner (jackpot) and tapping once resets it.  How do I set the values for the progressive? I think this is one of the problems as I couldn't figure out how to set. I searched the settings and didn't see anything for setting percentages or perhaps I don't realize which one it is?

Since this is Bally - Ignore my comments about the game chip. This pertains to IGT.

I am at work too, and don't have PSP infront of me so I am going from memory.
From within the Main Screen I think its Option 1 Jackpot Values or Jackpot Summary.

I can dig through this more tonight when I am at home.

               OK when I get home I'll check back too. Thanks

Its probably going to be tomorrow for me now. Just got invited to tonights Flames/Blackhawks game.
Corporate box seats.  :199-

                     No problem.  I'll just keep experimenting on it, so far no luck though.  I got onto the main screen and went to the jackpot summary portion but not sure what to do from there.  I do have the denomination correct at .25 and have the flip rate at 02 but that's it and everything is set at all 0's. The other settings look like this, F3 ----  and  F4 JPO. Is this the critical area for making the progressive work?

I have mine hooked up to an S+...can you give me the pin outs for  the Bally?
I have a Bally 5500 Proslot and if I fool around with the PSP tomorow, and
get it working I could take tell you what I find?

Flames lost 7:1 to the blackhawks. Embarrasing.

Anyways....
Option 1 Jackpot Programming
Set Base Value to 1000
Set Current JP Value to 2000
Hidden JP leave at 0000
JP Limit 99,999,999.99
Increment 1 set to 1.00
F3 should be SNGL
F7 $$$$
Once you set this up press F1 for SEND

CHAMII+ User Manual Page 28:

Bally Pigtail                CHAMII+

Pin 1 (Red)            Pin 3   (Machine Input)
Pin 2 (Black)          Pin 13 (Gnd) 
Pin 3 (Wht)           Pin  9  (Do+)
Pin 4 (Grn)            Pin 10 (Do -)   

Ron (r273)                            

Thanks for the pin-outs r273!  :89- :89- :89-
That will be so helpful!

uh,....Atlanta or is it Calgary Flames now?
Always loved Larry McDonald and his lumberjack mustache....lol

Lanny Macdonald.... hes a class act. Long retired. He now is the sponsor for autiusm and runs a ski athon at Canada Olympic Park to raise money....

Larry Macdonald is the CFO for Nova Chemcials - he retires at the end of November.

Lanny! That's right...LOL
You think Larry ever had a lumberjack mustache?  :208-
I'm gonna try growing one this winter... :5-

I have had mustaches iin my younger years and I am not too sure what it would take to get it looking like one of those lumber jacks...... They are not just wide but also deep.....

                                     I did the settings like you mentioned but still did not work. I'll post the pics of the settings to show you.

                   More pics

                           Now the color of the wiring is different from what Rr273 listed. The colors are yellow, brown, and orange.    The wires are active as I tested it. Also the standalone board does react only on jackpot (3 second close of first and fifth pin/ orange and yellow wires)

Your Increment is wrong......

Your 1 is so far behind the decimal point.......I don't want to fathom how many coins you would need to play for the system to increment by just a penny.

You must be thinking like a casino operator  :89-

For test purposes put the 1 in front of the decimal.
This should give you a buck for each coin played

Later you can change it to 0.04 which is 4% or 1 cent for each quarter.

                                              AHHH! no wonder why the meter wasn't working! I didn't think much of the decimal points missing and assume just start on the right side like a register. Now it's working! horray!!! The pics sure helped out a lot. I had a feeling it would be hard to explain and easier to just post the pics of how it looks like. I purchased a con 1 board for my other machine so when it comes in I will try to remember how to put it back together. I purchased one for $30 actually today from an Ebay member who just recently sold one yesterday. Hopefully the board is good. Anyway I really appreciate everyones help, many thanks Jay, Stayouttadabunker, R273.  I can finally put this one aside and wait for the con 1 board to come in to fix the other machine that has been waiting for over 3 years to be working again. I'll be experimenting more on this program to learn more about it. Thanks again everyone!

That's great modman!
I'm so happy you got it going!
High-resolution pictures re-sized to fit on NLG is the way to go... :89-
We can just click on them and zoom them way larger  to see every freaking detail!  :96-

I changed my avitar in celebration of your success... and while it may look like the cat is simply stretched out.... he is actualy doing the wave and you just caught him in mid stance  :72-

That cat looks almost comatose...LOL

                             You guys have been a great help and I am feeling fortunate to come upon this site and have you guys helping me out. Jay: you changed your avitar just for my success! I don't know what to say, thank you!  :131-

Well it was better than saying I shot the cat because this problem was so frustrating ......  :72-

113 posts to get the bloody thing going! Arghhhh!... :96-

 :105-

Glad you got your meter working!  Persistence paid off for you.  :89-

For your future reference, you can take nice screenshots in windows without having to actually take the camera to the monitor: just press the  "Print Screen" key on your keyboard (usually in the upper-right part of the keyboard -- sometimes labeled as "PrtScr").  Once you've done that, open up Paint (start > programs > accessories) or your favorite image editing program, then just "paste" (edit > paste).  You'll get an image of everything that was on the screen when you clicked the keyboard button.   :71-

And if you hold down the Alt key while you press PrtScr, you'll grab the active window only. :214-

...and the teacher (me) just became the student -- I never knew that.  K+ for that tip!  :3-

And like Bunker likes to say:

You learn something new everyday!  :89-

I used to do it the KNAGL way, but after I pasted it into the paint window, I then use the selection box for the area that I want to display and I cut it and then paste it into a new paint window. I will try it Bill's way next time I am doing that! K+ to both of you for sharing your secrets with everyone, and for the heck of it!  :3- :88-

CH :95-

Step for step that's what I'd do -- perhaps no longer, though!

I tried it! This one's with just the "Print Screen" button>>>

And this is using both the "Alt" & "Print Screen" buttons.
I don't see any difference though.
Am I doing something wrong?>>>

When the active window is in full screen, it will look the same because the active window is in full screen. Open 2 windows and set them side by side and try it again.

Also note that you can paste these screeenshots directly into a rich text file (.rtf) or a Word document, or even an email if you use Outlook.

                                I know about the print screen but my old laptop was not used for the internet and it was plugged next to the machine for programming where I could not hook up to the internet and I was using my desktop so using the camera was much faster for me. Thanks...

Thank you very much for that info brichter!
I can try that soon, but my problem is that whenever I do that,
It saves the screen shot in .rtf (rich text format) and
I cannot post these types of of pictures onto a post here on NLG...
so, if I try to save it onto another format - I lose all the pictures and only get text...
Why can I NOT load an .rtf picture onto an NLG post?
Would there be some possible somewhat easy way to do this?

Oh, I did upload two .rtf screen shots to my earlier posts didn't I? :25- :25-
I guess this was an new addition to the website?

No, you uploaded .png files.

Joey ! Statfeak ! Somebody !
Could you guys please rig this website up to accept .rtf  files?! :37-   :96-

Oh well, I guess we don't need to.... :96-

Bunker, What are you doing?  Trying to crash the site again?

Ahh.... you know me by now...just a-tinkerin'... :96-

Instead of turning screen prints into Rich Text(rtf) files, open microsoft paint, and paste(cntrl + v) the screen print in there, save it as a .jpg


Thanks,
Wayne

Thank you Wayne... :3- :131-
I have enough info to play with for a whole week now!  :96-