New Life Games Tech Forums

Any things to look for?, can't find anything jammed.

Did you remove the hopper completly and take it apart?
Does the hopper brake disengage when you press on it?
If you can disengage the brake, you may be able to turn the pinwheel
with your other hand to see/feel if the gears in the transmission box are okay...

Thanx Bunk, Did not take it apart yet.  I am a total slot newbee... have not disassembled a hopper yet.  Tomm. I will get some fresh fuses, and see what is inside that hopper! Dave

the most common reason for e1000 hopper fuse blowing is the MAC-15 on the hopper control board. 

Thanks Guys, I pushed the hopper brake and turned the hopper manually, seems ok.  Barry, I just ordered a few triacs from you, I will see if the MAC-15 fixes it.  My control board is really worn out! It has burned up before, and someone jumped a few wires where the cuircuits were fried.  I may end up having to get a new control board from you. Barry, I have a feeling you will eventually take all my money. :37-

you didn't order any mac15 from me as I do not have any for sale. 

Oh crap, Got the symbol Q1 confused with the Q1 triac on the I/O board. What is my best option the whole board?

Hello again, so I located a MAC15 triac and soldered it into the board.  Reinstalled the board, turned the machine on and the fuse did not blow! Great, I thought I had it fixed.  I played a couple rounds and everything was fine until I hit 2 cherries and POOF, the whole first floor 15A circuit breaker kicked off!  After resetting the breaker, I checked the hopper fuse and It was not blown. I turned the machine back on, and then the hopper fuse blew again.  I'm sure the MAC15 is toast, and I'm thinking the hopper motor must be shorted or something.  I can turn the hopper by hand, so It doesn't look like any jam.  Anyone have any ideas?

check the traces on the back of the board - you also may have a bad cap.

I looked at the back of the board carefully. The board has been fried before and there are a buch of jumper wires, but I dont see any new damage. Can the capacitors be tested?  Should I jump the hopper motor to see what happens?

you can jump the motor to make sure it is turning and there is no jam - but the hopper motor should not cause the 110v breaker to trip.    Check the caps for a short - recheck the mac15s as well - usually when the mac15s go they take something else with them - especially the traces.

By traces, do you mean the printed circuits on the back of the board?

that is correct. 

Ok, So I jumped the hopper motor and it is fine.  I can't find any new burns in the board.  I got another mac15 at my local electronics store, and the at tendent looked at the caps and told me if they were shorted, they would be visibly burned up.  I asked him how to check them, and he got mad at me and gave me the "Ive been doing this for 40 years!" So anyway, I was wondering how to test the caps.  I have an multitester.  Can I just check the resistance in the caps? Also, when I replaced the mac15 last night, I only replaced 1 of them(Q1) The electronics store is out, but I am expecting 2 more in the mail any day.  Should I replace both? I am afraid of wasting too much $$$-those things are about $5 a piece!

the easiest test for the mac15 using a multimeter - do a continuity test - black lead to the metal tab of the mac15 - red lead to the left then right lead - if there is continuity the mac15 is shorted.  When the mac15s go bad - usually both go.

Yeh, both are smoked.  The mac15 in the Q2 position actually had continuity on both sides.  I also found some cold solder joints on the 15ct plug pins, but doubt that has anything to do with it. Question, the Q2 mac15 is supposed to be a mac15-8, as opposed to the mac15-6 in the Q1 position.  Both defective triacs I removed have the same part number.  I'm assuming the mac15-8 will handle more voltage than the mac15-6?  I only have available the mac15-6's. Do you think the board will operate with 2 mac15-6's. Or should I search for a mac15-8?

mac15-6 is the correct part 15amp 400v

Thanks!

Got it! Got some more mac15 in the mail today and replaced both this time.  Works perfect, Thanks Barry-big Karma to you! Here is a pic of the patch job. The trace wires were someone Else's work, so I guess the mac15 burn up quite a bit?

One would think that if trace wires are burning off the bloody board that
someone would have noticed that and said...
"Uh...ya think we should make those a little wider?".... :96-

I hear that! I'm just wondering who made the jumper wires. They did a beautiful job, looked like they may have done it a few times before!

bally hopper boards are notorious for burned up traces (power supplies as well).  If you work on e-series machines you have to learn to improvise.  I had a replacement hopper board engineered to eliminate all the problems - same board works on either E1000 or E2000 (board has to be cut to fit the E1000).  The board removes all the redundant circuitry - just does what is needed for home use. 

I saw that in your store. Very cool. As soon as I get some extra $$, I will order one from you to keep as a spare.  Thanks again for all your help. I got the reel glass in last night and the machine looks great.  My wife even likes it now!  I am enjoying learning how these things work, and hopefully will have a few more some day.

Great discussion.  I have the same problem! 
Thanks,
Jeff