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I get this question alot as Universal never assigned a model number to a particular design of slot such as IGT's M, S, S+, and S2000.
Rather, Universal uses the game eprom number as the model number.
To make matters worse, Universal has a spot on the ID tag of each machine for the model number, most I find are blank. Seems like since games can be easily changed, no use stamping the tag.

Then it appears after the Nevada Gaming Commission (NGC) updated Regulation 14 in late 1988, all manufactures were required to stamp the Date of Manufacture on their machines.
Universal never did this before, and their current tag at that time had no place to stamp the date. So what did they do? They stamped the Year of Manufacture where the model number goes.
An example would be; "Y-92", or "Y-91".  Same with video poker machines.
So people think they have model # Y-92.  :60-
No, that is the date of manufacture.
Later they changed their tags to add a date. (see pics)

Universal made the same basic slot machine from 1984 to 1999.
There were others such as the Jumbo Slot, slant tops, the Ultra Series in 94-97.
The basic machine went through several small changes throughout the years. Several power supply changes, two different mpu boards, four different hoppers that I know of, etc. Not all documented in the manuals I have.  :8-

The basic machine has a game eprom and a machine eprom. The game eprom, also called the personality eprom, is specific for that game only. The machine eprom controls all the record keeping, outputs, etc. The machine eprom can serve several different games.
To see what eproms you have, press the green test button, that is near the meters, nine times. Then record the five repeating numbers in the win meter. Do not record the first number. It is always 9, the test number.
Example;
First number is the Machine Eprom              #  8601
Second number is Machine Eprom version     #  0021
Third number is Game Eprom                     #  8552
Forth number is Game Eprom version           #  0001     -this will determine what % payback the game is (see zip file in "Upload a new file")
Fifth number is the max credit limit               # 1200
 

Hello uniman

I took a pic of my tags.

Would the model be 5924?

It's kind of hard to figure out.

It looks like B59248A, would that be correct?

thanks

I haven't powered it up yet, still finding the fuses and replacing one wire in the wiring harness.

So I'm not able to do the eprom reading.

I am looking for a manual, so that's why I thought I would start with the model number.

Any other source for a universal manual other than ebay?

There are 2 versions on ebay now.

slot monkey

Welcome to the forum Slot Monkey.  :88-

Universal considered the game eprom number or personality eprom number the model number.
Your game; 2-coin Rainbow is game eprom #9248  with the extension 0003 that is the number for the 89.6% payback version.
The other number, 9116-0008 is the machine eprom number.
Look in the "Submit a new File" tab at the top of the page, there is an excel spreadsheet with Universal eprom listings.

I have no idea what the B59248A means??

As far as the manual goes, when you see it advertised for Type A,B,C,D,I,ID, and N, those are cabinet styles.
The Universal manual is for all models in those cabinet styles listed.
If your machine is 21-1/4" wide (not including the handle) and it has a top glass above the reels, then it is either
A, B, or C.
There are other options besides eBay, I sent you a PM on those options.
I hope that helps,

Uniman

 
Ok, the BS9248A-2MR/CS is;

B = Cabinet style
(modified) Not sure about the S   :103-  (don't think it is a 5)  
9248A = the model number      They included the "A" because there is another game with the same eprom (a clone) That other game is called "Triple Treasure" It most likely is game #9248B
2MR = A two coin game with a multiplier that goes 200-500 payout for 7's or 7-bars
CS = a credit selectable game, which means push the credit/cashout button so it is lit and credits stay on the machine, otherwise all wins will immediately cashout. (this can be changed via dip switch)

Show us a pic of your machine when you get it up and running!

Uniman

Thanks for the quick reply!

It gives me a place to start.

I'll be workin on this monster this weekend.

Mostly just getting familiar with all the pieces and parts.

I'll be ready with the fire extinguister when I fire it up for the first time.

If you smell smoke, it's probably coming from me..........ahahh

Here's a quick before pic..............

I have seen that machine before. For sale, I think on Craigslist in Ohio last spring?
The belly glass is larger than a regular Universal and the deck where the buttons are is much bigger too. Looks like they were trying to copy the IGT S+ with that door.
Maybe that's why the number was B  S  9428A !!!
Interesting theme.
Thanks for the pic.

You have a really good memory!!!

I picked it up from craigslist last week.

It was in akron.

It wasn't working when I got it so I might have a big project ahead.

We will see, if anything it will be a learning experience.

Iv'e always wanted to get inside a slot machine ever since I was a kid just to see how they worked.

Kind of like learning how a magic trick is done.

First thing to checkout is the power supply. That reel glass almost makes it look like a narrow machine?
Is the power supply just to the left of the reels? If so, it is not a narrow machine.
If the power supply is mounted under the reels, than it is a narrow machine.

power supply is beside the reels.........

here is another one............

I would guess that is a yellow dot power supply. What does it say on the round sticker?

You have a high speed hopper, not as heavy duty as the regular hopper, but they work.
What is that wire from the door to the hopper?

the round yellow sticker has handwrithing stating:

"filter replaced, checked ok then a date"

The wire running from the door to the inside is a white wire connected to the change button on the door.

I had the wires hanging down because I was trying to get a better look inside.

The filter they are referring to is probably the noise filter. Needed in a casino environment due to all the flourescent lighting, etc. Not needed for home use, I remove mine when they fail. And they often do fail.

The change button should have two wires, pink/black, and black. Both going to the big black shrinkwrapped bundle.
That wire looks to be added by someone.

I would get the fuses for the power supply and test the voltages before trying to fire it up. Check out the power supply thread in the Universal section for correct voltages.

When you do fire it up, you should reset the RAM. You do this by holding in the reset button while powering up. The reset button is located threw the little round hole at the bottom middle of the MPU cage.

Have fun!!!

I checked the voltage coming in from the cord and it was 120volt.

I checked the voltage on the power supply, it checked out to be 26 volt at the molex plug.

I replaced all the fuses with new fast blow type.

I pressed the reset on the board and switched it on.

The flouresent tube lights came on in the bottom, middle and top.

I don't have any of the mini lamps in because have to order some so no way to test them yet..

So I shut it off and checked the fuses, the 5volt and two of the 3volt fuses were blown.

So I assume the 5volt has to do with the motherboard and/or wiring for the board.

I pulled the motherboard and am looking at now.

I will post a pic or two tomorrow of the board.

3volt ? Do you mean 3 amp fuses?
Try unscrewing the motherboard cage rack from the machine. In back where all the wires are, sometimes a screw or coin can lodge back there and short it out.

sorry my bad, yes 3 amp!

I took the metal cover off the board and there are 3 wires from the harness inside that were smashed between the metal housing with the screws.

The wires have a flat spot in them but doesn't look like it shorted out.

The 5volts DC is used in several places besides the MPU. Handle, reels, coin optics, hopper, etc. Anyplace you see a solid pink wire.
Pink is 5v DC.

thanks for the pointer, I will have to take a close look at the wiring harness and all the connections.

I checked behind the motherboard cage rack, I didn't find anything that would cause a short.

I checked for shorts in the pink wire in most of the wiring harness and didn't find any problems.

The 2 fuses that are blowing are the 5Vdc 5A and the 12Vdc 3A.

I will do some more looking but it seems to be pointing toward the motherboard and sound.

I will check into the power supply again, possibly removing the noise filter as suggested in other thread.

Any pointers for removing the noise filter?

Thanks again to uniman and everyone that replied to my threads.

I will keep updating as I go and add some more pics, I'm sure there will be more questions ahead.

Latter

I would not remove the noise filter just yet. Need to find reason for blown fuses. A logical process of elimination is needed. I would do this;
With machine turned off,
1. Remove the reels, hopper, and MPU board.
2. Unplug the three output connectors at the power supply leaving the 110v coming in connected.
3. Unplug the black connector to the door and the 15-pin white connector underneath it also coming from the door.

With known good fuses in the power supply;
Turn the power supply on and off. Remove fuses and check that they are still good.
If good, connect the 12-pin connector to the power supply and power on/off. Check fuses.
If good, insert the MPU and power on and then power off. Check fuses.
If good, plug in the two connectors to the power supply that are behind the reels. Power on and then off. Check fuses.
If good, connect the hopper, power on and off. Check the fuses.
If good, connect both door connectors, power on and off. Check the fuses.
If still good, then put the reels back in, plug in reel #1 only, power up and off, check fuses. Do the same to reels #2 and #3 one at a time.

You already checked several obvious areas, a couple more are the machine's power cord, especially where it leaves the machine. Often they are damaged. Another is under the MPU board in it's case.
Your MPU board is an 8116-A2, right??

Disclaimer
The above list of things I would do are intended for individuals who are familiar with live electrical contacts, proceed at your own risk.

uniman, thanks for the excellent troubleshooting info!

"With known good fuses in the power supply;
Turn the power supply on and off. Remove fuses and check that they are still good.
If good, insert the MPU and power on and then power off. Check fuses."

After inserting the mpu, two of the fuses blew, the 5Vdc 5A and the 12Vdc 3A..

When I received the machine, it had a wire that was fried from the optical sensor that is under the coin comparater.

The male molex plug on the optical sensor was bent and had shorted.

So the sensor might be bad too, but that is further down the road.

So I'm assuming that short damaged something on the mpu.

I believe my board is an 8116-A3.

I included some pics.

Don't thank me just yet, I see I missed a logical step.  :30-
But, if you had the door connectors, hopper, and reels disconnected when you tried the MPU, then you know the problem is not in the door, hopper, and reels.
But did you have the three and six pin connectors connected to the power supply when you blew the fuses with the MPU? Hopefully not. If you did, try it again with those two disconnected.

The step I forgot was to only connect the 12-pin connector to the power supply (with no MPU, no door, no hopper, and no reels) Power on/off, check fuses. This would eliminate wiring harness to the MPU if it checked out OK.
I have modified my above post to include this step.

Even after performing the above step and if it turns out only the MPU step blows the fuses you are down to the MPU and wiring exiting from the MPU in the main cabinet.

Did you ever check all the output voltages on the power supply 12-pin connector? Pin 1 is DC 5v, Pin 4 is DC 12v. Pin 7 is a ground.
I thought I added the output voltages to the Power Supply thread, but I can't find them now. I will add them again.
Output voltages added here; http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=177.msg1067#msg1067

Your board, 8116-A3 is an upgrade of the 8116-A2. I have no info on it. Similar to the 8116-A2 but with some differences. I did recently bought an 8116-A3 but it was used in a Jumbo machine and does not work in a regular machine either because it is defective or has been altered, I don't know.

You are still "the man" in my book! :3-

"did you have the three and six pin connectors connected to the power supply when you blew the fuses with the MPU?"

Answer - no

"Did you ever check all the output voltages on the power supply 12-pin connector? Pin 1 is DC 5v, Pin 4 is DC 12v. Pin 7 is a ground."

Answer - I will check it in a few minutes

"Your board, 8116-A3 is an upgrade of the 8116-A2. I have no info on it. Similar to the 8116-A2 but with some differences. I did recently bought an 8116-A3 but it was used in a Jumbo machine and does not work in a regular machine either because it is defective or has been altered, I don't know."

Question - Does that mean that I can put a 8116-A2 in this slot as a replacement, if I was able to find one?

Be back in a few.........

Yes, the 8116-A2 will work in your machine with your eproms.

"Did you ever check all the output voltages on the power supply 12-pin connector? Pin 1 is DC 5v, Pin 4 is DC 12v. Pin 7 is a ground."

Answer - pin 4 is DC 12v, Pin1 is 0.00. After checking the voltage at pins 4 and 1, the power supply it's self, with nothing plugged in,  blows the 5A 5v and 3A 12v fuse. No other components were plugged in at the time of this test.

Ok, just to make sure I'm on the same page; You set your voltage tester to DC. You put your red + lead on #1 and your black - lead on #7, then red + on #4 and black - on #7 and it blew the fuses?

1  4  7  10
2  5  8  11
3  6  9  12

Actually you said #4 first.

yes, the red and black leads were correct, and I got the 12 volt reading on the 4 pin and 0 on the 1 pin.

I shut the power supply off and both fuses were blown.

I had my tester to read DC.

So then I put new fuses in and turned the supply on and blew again, without any testing at all.

Kind of crazy.

I also checked the power cord at both ends and in between where it comes in the cabinet.

The volts checked ok for the cord.

I'm thinking a bad power supply......

Although, I'm new at this, so I don't know much........ just enough to get in trouble.....haha

Do you think I should get another power supply?

I agree with your thinking! Sounds like bad power supply. And I don't think the noise filter is the cause. Noise filter is located ahead of the coil. Symptoms I see for bad noise filter is a lack of power, not blown fuses. Still wouldn't hurt to remove it as you need to open up the power supply now. Someone has been in there before to replace the filter, might find a loose connection.

I'm no electronics expert either and I have never repaired a power supply. My best guess would be the coil is bad, but that is just a guess.

BlueRidge slots might have a used power supply to sell you.
If not, I may have an extra working one.

Looking at the schematic below, I circled the two fuses that are blowing and highlighted the line back to the coil.
If any electronic experts care to chime in, please do!

Great job again, uniman

I'll plan on getting another supply.

Another question......... Reguarding the mini lamps that are used on the boards for the door lighting, what number mini bulb is to be used for universal slots?

Is it 656?

thanks........

Yes, 656. Jim at BlueRidge Slots has the best price I've seen for these bulbs.  :89-

I placed an order with Jim at blueridge.

It should be coming this week.

I will keep the forum updated on my progress.

I installed the new power supply today.

Went through the check list from uniman:

"With known good fuses in the power supply;
Turn the power supply on and off. Remove fuses and check that they are still good.
If good, connect the 12-pin connector to the power supply and power on/off. Check fuses.
If good, insert the MPU and power on and then power off. Check fuses.
If good, plug in the two connectors to the power supply that are behind the reels. Power on and then off. Check fuses.
If good, connect the hopper, power on and off. Check the fuses.
If good, connect both door connectors, power on and off. Check the fuses.
If still good, then put the reels back in, plug in reel #1 only, power up and off, check fuses. Do the same to reels #2 and #3 one at a time."

After going though the above checklist, all the fuses were still GOOD!

So I fired up the slot and got some sound and lights.

It had error codes, 13, 21 and 50.

I then powered down and restarted it, this time holding the reset button on the mpu.

It then had error codes 13 and 50.

I powered down again and restarted, again holding the reset button on the mpu.

It then had error code 50, open door.

So after reading the manual, the code 50 could be removed after closing the door, inserting credit and playing one play.

So I inserted a coin and the coin dropped straight through, no credit.

So I am at my next obstacle.

I have to test my coin comparator and optic sensors.

There is a led light on the side of the comparator, is it suppose to be lit when powered on?

uniman, do you want me to start a new universal thread for the coin comparator and optics or do you want me to continue here?

You seem to have everything well organized in the universal forum, I didn't want to start messing up your order of things....

Time to get some sleep......... later!

Your comparitor LED should be on when the door is closed, off when the door is open.
To test it and the optics do this;
Open the door and power up. (Error 13 & 50 are ok)
Pull out the knobs on the two cherry switches circled in the pic below. They should stay pulled out. This simulates them pushed in when the door is closed. The black one should be for the inside light. The white one tells the MPU the door is closed or open. But pull them both.
Next there is an optic in the door, so you need to lock the door latch down like when you close it.
Now the insert coin light on the reel glass should be flashing (unless the bulb is burnt out) and the comparitor light should be on.
Drop a coin through and it should go through the comparitor and through the two optics below. You should see both optics flash a little red light as the coin passes.
If the comparitor does not allow the coin to go through the optics, check your sample coin and make sure it is in firm and straight. If that doesn't work, there is a sensitivity pot in the lower right hand corner of the comparitor. Turn it all the way to the negative, I believe counterclockwise, with a miniature screwdriver.

uniman, you are a miracle worker, great job!!!

It is finally accepting coins and spinning some reels.

After doing the above checklist that uniman provided in the above thread, the optic sensors worked but the coin comparitor was still dead. After checking connector 3 (3pin, black, blue and violet) for voltage, I found out the black and blue wires in the connector had been reversed. Once I switched them, the coin comparitor lit up and was working.

I got to play alittle with it about 30 plays.

The sounds are pretty good, all though, I didn't win too many plays so the sounds were kind of limited.

The coin hopper sounds like a garbage disposal, wow.

So that will be my next assignment, is to remove, clean and diagnose the hopper.

I read a thread here on the forum about the universal hoppers, so I will reread it again and start to work on it tomorrow.

Once again uniman, you saved my arse!

Time to turn in............ later

Hallo Uniman,

only now I found out how to activate the green test button, which I thought was inop in all my 12 Universal slots. I have to turn the meter key in clockwise direction and leave it there, only then the test button works, no comment about this in the manual.
For the meter reading program is also different from manual:
meter key in anticlockwise position, then one goes through the number of reading via MAX BET = up, and 1 BET =down.
Only now I can verify the numbers of Eprom , serial etc.
I wonder how you translate the # 4 Percentage reference number into actual % ?
I found you mention a zip file in a upload section, but I cant access that section, password and username required, my normal ones don't work.
I have those nice machines, but it seems the PO% is quite high on most, especially this one:
1 Eprom Series No   8601
2 Eprom version     0145
3  Eprom model     8765
4  Eprom %       0031.
The meter reading program does not give me the actual  PO % , cos for some reason memory does not keep all coins played stored, only until shut down, maybe the battery.?

If there is a formula of sorts to determine PO% from the % ref-no. it would be great or any other way to ssee.
Thank you alot, I llearn alot from reading all those older posts even.