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 I'am looking to buy a eprom burner and was wondering if anyone here has an idea of what I should get or if some one has one for sale My computer has usb plug ins  Thanks for the HELP

You can search the term 'eprom burner" and come up with several threads where we've discussed this topic in depth. There's more there than you'll need to make the right decision. :186-

You'll need to balance money against how often you'll use it and how many (and which) different chips you'll need to burn. :214-

Oh, and don't forget the eraser!  :25-

brichter hit on it, you first should say your price range as well as intended useage amount.  I have an Easypro 90B that is a great little unit for most eproms, I also have a chipmax 2 that I bought from Luke that works for the more in depth programming and is much quicker.  if money is no object, then xeltek 3000U would be nice.

Thanks,
Wayne

Words to live by.  Nothing worse than getting your new burner and chips and your stuck unable to erase them!

I've been using this for a year with no issues at all:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130298006229&rvr_id=&crlp=1_263602_263622&UA=M (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130298006229&rvr_id=&crlp=1_263602_263622&UA=M)*S%3F&GUID=400377901240a02699604000fffd8a7c&itemid=130298006229&ff4=263602_263622#ht_1665wt_908

Me too...that cheap little plastic box actually works...patience is the key! LOL
Go make a big sandwich and
pour yourself a drink while the thing erases all those tiny little things away!

Wait a minute, you wait to pour yourself a drink until you're erasing chips? :198-



  :208- :208- :208- :208-

 :96-    ^^^^^  comedians! :96- :200-

I'm surprised nobody saw this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/Chip-Max-Device-Programmer_W0QQitemZ330380400893QQ

:D

I had to snag it for a spare programmer. I really like the EETools brand of programmers.

RJ

Those are sooooo serial cable... :96-

Actually, I trust your judgment on these programmers, Channelmaniac...
If you like them - they must be pretty good! :89-

Actually, parallel cable.

My ROMMAX has easily paid for itself 2x over and it was a $500 unit that I bought new.

Now I can sell off my old TOP2004 programmer since I no longer need it.

EETools makes some of the best burners out there, I have a ChipMax II and it has been great. Of course I got an open box deal on it at Fry's for only $279 (regularly $500, it's still the current model and sells for $420)

It seems like they update software every month (honestly). I had a problem with the first one I got after 2 months, they swapped it out for me, the whole process took 20 minutes.

By the way, Channelmaniac, the burner you just bought for $41 is still sold by Fry's for $199. What a deal! :3- :3-

If you don't use to many eproms anyway then buy the EEPROM. This one you can erase with your programmer without the UV-light. Check for the WINBOND brand for example. No more need for any extra material. A little bit more expensive but if you do not use hundreds of them it will be a nice thing to try.

Hello all thanks for all the info will this one work off of Ebay  True USB EPROM chip Burner Programmer AT29C256 27SF512 its usb

Hello here is a pic and here is the name of it True USB EPROM chip Burner Programmer AT29C256 27SF512

Yes, It will work for the AT29C256...

The 27SF512 chip you want to use...
Doesn't it have a "SST" in front?
I'm wondering if the full name of the chip should be "SST27C512 "

Those USB programmers will work for all the CMOS versions of various EPROMs from 27C64 and up.

They may have trouble with older non-CMOS versions, especially when programming 21 or 25v chips such as 2732 and 2716. If you don't need to program an old chip like that then it should be find for most generic chips.

Just be sure it will do 16 bit EPROMs if you think you'll ever need to program them. An example of that would be a 27C1024. 16 bit EPROMs are common on arcade games, but I'll have to defer to the slot experts if you'll ever encounter them working on those.

RJ

PS: Make sure you get a good eraser that will do the quantity you need. I needed a bigger one and bought one on a "best offer" that was accepted this morning. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220449220052

It would be SST 27SF512

This is what I have and it's worked great.   I use it on my mac through parallels desktop and on an xp laptop.

:205-  In fact, I believe that many of us ended up buying the GQ-4X. I haven't had any issues with mine, although it's a bit slow. It takes 1 minute/Mb to program (reading is much faster), but this might be due to my computer's bus architecture and not the burner. I don't really know as I don't have another computer/GQ-4X combination to test against.

You can also purchase it directly from MCUmall at

http://www.mcumall.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4282 (http://www.mcumall.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4282)  (basic unit)

http://www.mcumall.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4312 (http://www.mcumall.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4312)  (full pack with these extras:)
PLCC32-DIP32 socket adapter
PLCC32-DIP28 socket adapter
FWH+/LPC+ adapter
PLCC IC extractor   (NOTE: This is NOT for pulling the DIP chips that we use in slot machines!)

 :205- :212- As I have this programmer (since it first came out) and have had good luck with it. I do not do alot of volume, so it works great for the price. Some call it slow, but it is pretty fast if you have came from their previous parallel versions of the programmers. I will have to time it some time for you Statfreak! :31-


To add to what RJ brought up in reply #15 above about 16 bit eproms, You WILL need one of these adapters for 16bit Eproms. If you are going to use to backup S2000' or Game King or IGames, 16bit capability is a must for Base and Key chips!

http://www.mcumall.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4290 (http://www.mcumall.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4290)

http://www.mcumall.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4289 (http://www.mcumall.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4289)

CaptainHappy :95-

If it takes 8 minutes to burn an 8MB chip, then it's in the same ballpark as mine. :96-  Buzz's burner burns an 8MB chip in seconds, not minutes. :37- But like you, I don't burn that many chips so, for the money, I'm very happy with this burner.

I have an older 40 pin adapter that originally came with the Willem Dual POS, but I think that it's 8 bit and not 16. I may have to purchase that board for $29.99 one of these days...  :79-

And it works great! It uses the same Windows based software that my ROMMax uses :D and I programmed a few 27C010 and 020 chips last night to phoenix (resurrect) a Capcom Punisher arcade game. (Grumble grumble, damn suicide batteries...)

Hey Bondoexpress!

What programmer did you end up getting?

I bought the True USB EPROM chip Burner Programmer with the adapter that burns 16bit eproms got it in the mail a few days ago I haven't used it yet and yes I
bought an eraser to I will let you know how it works Thanks For The Help  EVERYONE

Just to be clear...SST 27SF512 are ok to use as a replacement for 27c512 and are erasable? New to this and burner has not arrived yet.

You didn't state WHO makes the 27c512 you're asking about.
They are made by various companies and come in various device forms.

The SST 27SF512 is a very good replacement for many  27c512 eproms.
All of the different 27c512 makes? I'm not sure...

The SST "SF" eprom is re-writable (Unlike the OTP eproms) and
is conveniently electrically erasable.
It does not have the UV window.

They work on my S+...

Let me re-frase the question.....

What 27c512 chips should I buy off e-bay to work with the GQ-4x programmer to back up S+ chips. I like the idea of not having to buy a UV erasing lamp but may go that way for cheap chips to back stuff up once I know what I am doing. But while learning I think the SST "SF" may be the way to go. Am I correct or wrong. Never burned chips before and the programmer will not be here till next week.

That is what I needed to hear, but what do I look for once I know what I am doing and want to grab some of these bulk deals on e-bay that are not "SF". What ones work and which ones will not? I think 100ns or at most 150ns will work on a S+ 10Mhz board and know faster would be better. But what manufactures do not work for S+?

As long as you are buying the equivalent of a 27C512 and/or a 27C64 you should have no issues. I have found that chips as slow as 200ns will work in an S+ 10MHz board, but faster is better. Besides, you might find other uses for the chips as you progress through this hobby, and for other machines and configurations, you will want chips of at least 120ns or faster. In addition, the cheapest chips are those in current demand, so the faster chips will actually be less expensive than the slower chips. At least, that's what I see when I browse buyICnow.com for used chips from China, or mouser.com for new chips from the U.S.

I bought these: http://cgi.ebay.com/10-x-SST-27SF512-DIP28-FLASH-EPROM-CHIPS-SST27SF512_W0QQitemZ180406514635QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2a0110f3cb (http://cgi.ebay.com/10-x-SST-27SF512-DIP28-FLASH-EPROM-CHIPS-SST27SF512_W0QQitemZ180406514635QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2a0110f3cb)

They are 70ns. I bought 2 for test purposes at $4.99 total, including shipping. Looks like the price drops when you buy bulk...

Yes...I bought 10 for $20 to play with. Hoped I did right...and looks like I did

Yup... :244- :3- :244-

Awesome!...another "BURNER" in da fold! :3-

Does anyone have the instructions for the GQ-4x they could send me a copy of? I have the item on its way but would like to read up on it before it gets here and I dive in with out taking the time to fully understand it.

They have a manual for it on MCUMall.com

I saw software updates, but did not see the manual :60-

I didn't see one there either...ah, you don't need it...
just ask us LOL when you get your chips and everything...





I found this neat cross_reference sheet for SST chips at MCUMall.com>>>

Always good to have one.
I do a lot of stuff with radios and controllers..so having EPROM equipment is a regular part of
test equipment, Hence the STAG-2000 pictured here :) And the Willem PCB3

This is where I work on "Embedded" ITX controllers (using Asterik PBX) for radio controllers.A "Windows" and Linux workstations. The laptop is for dealing with CF Flash cards since it has 2 PCMCIA slots in it and it's worthless as a laptop (Its a Toshitta)
Now I KNOW the place is a complete mess (my wife reminds me of this)but I can find what I need.
Wife is happy, this hobby keeps me home.....

I have used this programmer using 2716 with no problems - the programmer just does not identify the manuf and doesn't seem to care.  the GQ-4X works flawlessly. (also 27c64 27c256 and 27c512).
 

The "Stag-2000" is older than your Oldsmobile....but it's still working :)
Check out the monochrome green screen.....

Hmm, when's the last time they came out with a software update for that burner? :103-


 :96- :200- :97- :97-

Not sure, but i think the updates were available at the local Muntz TV store....

Kirk

Are you referring to the GQ-4X not identifying the manufacturer? If so, you are mostly correct.

It can't automatically read a chip and determine its size and manufacturer. One has to manually set the size and type of chip first (generic options are available in the list). Once this is done, however, the burner will then correctly read the manufacturer and the specific chip number. One can then go back and select the specific chip from the list in place of the generic number.

This seems silly to me though, since once the user has gone to the effort of identifying the chip manually, there's not much use for the burner's "confirmation". It is the only aspect of this burner that I do not care for. Otherwise I agree that the GQ-4X works flawlessly. The interface is simple and straight forward, and the burner is a pleasure to use.

I could see this lack of automatic identifying of chips becoming a problem if one had to read Flash EPROMS or PROMS with stickers on them that covered up the size and type of the chips. It would require peeling off the sticker just to get the size info for the burner. :25-

You are also right that the burner doesn't seem to care about the specific manufacturer chip settings, although there is a message somewhere that recommends using these settings whenever possible. I have never noticed any difference -- at least with EPROMS (haven't tried other types) -- between using the generic chip option and the specific manufacturer option. I wonder if the software uses the manufacturer-specific options to make small changes to the voltages to match the slightly different specs? It certainly doesn't seem necessary.

Found the manual

http://www.mcumall.com/download/TrueUSBWillem/GQUSBPrgrmrUserGuide4.0.zip (http://www.mcumall.com/download/TrueUSBWillem/GQUSBPrgrmrUserGuide4.0.zip)

Great job there coorslight!!! :3- :3- :244- :89-

only the 2716 - will not id no matter what you do - all others id works fine.

 

Ok its getting late for me and I am tired, but need to ask this question that has me wondering.. Once i get past the learning/mistake stage of being a new chip burner, should I just buy the correct size chip from epromman.com ie: 27c64 , 26c128, 27c256 ect and not hassle with the offset? I know the SF chips are the way to go for a newby and if you want to reuse the chip. but I can buy 50 chips for $25 for backing-up IGT S+ mix and match.   :103- :103- :103-

The MAJOR differance is having to wait an hour for the UV light to erase the 27C series of EPROMS. i would stay with the 27C64/27C256/27C512 as well as the 27C4002/27C801 or 27C080.
When you save a file for use later you can name them "SS4713-64" so you know its on a 27C64 or "SB000655-4002" so you know its going on a 27C4002.
Some add a note in the file area such as... * all SSxxxx are 27C64* or *All S2000 base are 27C4002 and leave it off the indivdual file names.


Kirk

An hour? Boy, that really goes beyond a tan and straight into cancer! :97- :97-

Oh yeah...not only will they be erased...they will be melted to a pulp as well!  :200-

Should you decide to go with larger sized devices - it's simply a matter of copy&paste anyways
and the eprom will fill up with data.
Having the correct sized eproms in the first place is nice if you can get them at a good price
without buying a boxful of eproms with bent legs.
Don't say I didn't warn ya!  :96-

I didn't know that about the 2716's. Thanks. :131- :3- :3-

 :97- :97- :97- :97-

Most chips erase in 10-20 minutes, and even the cheap UV erasers will hold 4 EPROMs at a time. You just use fresh chips while the other ones are cooking.  :79-
I prefer mine without Ketchup. :29-  :96-

Now to be truthful, my most recent order was for 50 1MB FLASH EPROMS, but they were actually less expensive than the 1MB UVs (probably because they are newer and more abundant). I bought them used from buyicnow.com, which Buzz recommended to me. I haven't received them yet, but Buzz says that he's always gotten clean, erased chips with no bent pins.

i use the 2716 for my e-series applications - i have a bytek and used to use a JDR burner attached to a 386 until the PC died - so I had to upgrade to the GQ-4X. My Bytek lets me do BIPOLAR proms 82S123s - which I cannot do on any standard burner.  The only issue with 2716 was  TI which I avoid.

If I remember the posts, the TI version required three different voltages to program and used a different pin configuration. ?

A for sure way to tell you are getting older.

As if we needed that to remind us!  :200- :72- :97- :208-

Having the correct sized eproms in the first place is nice if you can get them at a good price
without buying a boxful of eproms with bent legs.
Don't say I didn't warn ya!  :96-
[/quote]

Bunker ..A few people suggested Epromman...is that not good advise? I would rather pay a little more if all I am going to get is junk!

I've haven't tried to buy anything from that guy but buzz recommends  buyicnow.com...
I'd give them a shot first...at least one of our members thinks they're very reputable.

But China....3 weeks to get them ..Oh well, little fingers to straighten the little pins before shipping.

Thanks

A search for "epromman" seems to show that there have been both good and bad experiences with his products... i'm lucky, as most everything can be had locally. That's the perk of living in Nerdville... :186- :186- :186- :186- :186- :186- :186-

I have bought from a Ebay dealer called "IC-China" prices were good, chips were good and already blank..but I swear they strapped them to the rear end of a Yak. Took close to a MONTH to get here.
I dont know if it's their Post office or ours (USPS) but it takes forever.....
We need to find a dealer in the USA with good product AND prices....
(First person to recommend HAPP gets the Raspberry award)....
I'm sure HAPP will ship a tube of 27Cxxx chips anywhere in the USA
for $18......


Kirk

Surely you've heard the phrase "Slow Boat to China"? :200- :200- :97-

I think Kirk's chips came across the pacific in this thing...LOL

I think the answer is no - but can someone verify that you can not erase chips in a tanning bed?

Dan #2

Tanning bed? thats a good question Dan... (I dont know)
But I CAN tell you what doesn't work.....
I tried leaving them on the patio one summer day, didnt work. No harm done..but they were still "intact".
You would think all that UV would do the trick. Must not be the correct wavelength .



Kirk

Pretty sure it won't work because UV A (what the tanning bed has, and only the low end of the UV A spectrum) isn't the same frequency as UV C, which is what erases eproms. It might, given several days...

UV C is dangerous to the skin and eyes.

I have bought from all three sellers mentioned in this thread.  Epromman is by far the cheapest ( in Florida ) first ones I got from him was in tubes. second and third time they were pretty bent up, but for 50 cents each I can spend a little time making their little old legs stand straight. I just don't remember much about I C China, last three orders came from BuyIcnow all 4 & 8 meg chips, not one bad one in the lot, always erased,  all labels removed and never a bent leg, shipping about 2 1/2 weeks.

I placed my order with buyICnow.com around Christmas and it was shipped on 12/30. (Not really that long considering the holiday and weekend.) I'll let everyone know when they arrive and their condition.

WINBOND W27C010-70  $0.98 each (for 50) used, on foam.


Mouser had new ST chips in tubes
SST27SF010-70-3C-PH  $1.19 ea (for 50)

I would have gone with Mouser, but I needed 2MB chips as well and they seemed to be perpetually out of stock on those. Their prices for UV 2MB chips was much higher than BuyICNow's counterparts, and they wanted to charge me the 10% Kaliforni-Duh sales tax, making it a bad deal.

I have been buying more items on the internet, or not at all because of that horrible tax. I will go out of my way to avoid paying it. For those sticklers, it's actually 9.75%. BFD. It turns good deals in to lousy ones and takes away every local merchant's competitive edge.

I wonder if the lawyer got in trouble for that advice?
That's like saying uh,...."now don't you worry about red lights at busy intersections,  just keep on driving straight through"  :97-

From Kirk above,

"I tried leaving them on the patio one summer day, didn't work. No harm done..but they were still "intact".
You would think all that UV would do the trick. Must not be the correct wavelength".


I remember on the old site, NLG 1  :98- , there was discussion about UV light, and leaving them out for a few weeks in the sun was suppose to work. Also, the use of a lamp used for reptile habitat or aquariums were used under a cardboard box. Remember the UV light is bad for your eyes. Anyone remember this?

There's two things about getting older. The first thing to go is your memory,...................................and I can't remember the other one.

Richard

Oops, sorry about that Bunker. I decided to retract that part of my post. When I looked closer, it turned out that the "ST" company suing them was actually Standard Microsystems Corp., not Silicon Storage Technology. My error.

Since you responded, here is the original information again. I should think that their former attorney would be in hot water over this.

They will eventually erase if exposed long enough to sunlight, but then again, you could also try to bake a cake with a magnifying glass.  :81-  :96- :30-
Why bother?  :127-

If one has spent over $100 on a burner and probably $50 to $100 more for chips, why worry about the cost of a $20 eraser?  :103-
There are dozens of them on fleapay every day.
Here's one example. Many of us have these and they work just fine. I am not endorsing this seller, just posting an example.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110475944577 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110475944577)

I also bought another type of eraser, so I can actually erase 8 chips at a time now.

FYI, the EPROM identity is read out by pulling pin A9 up to 12V and then reading the "silicon signature" from locations 0 and 1. Flash and EEPROM chips use a different, low voltage method (writing a command word by some complicated process) and quite often can't stand the 12V, so some programmers won't try the high voltage until you at least select an EPROM type. Then they use the manufacturer's code to pick the right programming voltage and algorithm, though there's not much variation in modern devices. It was difficult 25 years ago, with dozens of different manufacturing processes each with its own algorithm, but as the proprietary knowledge got passed around and memory cells got smaller they converged on the same one.

The 2716 came out before the silicon signature idea was developed, so most don't have it, but some do.

Op-Bell, how do the more sophisticated (and expensive) burners successfully read a chip blind and determine its type, size, and manufacturer?

Sent epromman two e-mails with no responce over the past week...

If I want to burn a 27c64 IGT SS chip to a sst27sf512 chip what offst do I use with out using the copy paste to fill the chip? Burner arrived and having a ball so far backing up everything to my 2Tb home network storage drives This thing is FAST!  :71-

What burner are you using?
You will see from this topic I've attached that I went through all this last year...
It's amazingly fun to learn. :89-

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1947.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1947.0)

Check out reply#15...Statfreak's answer for a newbie burner like me was excellent! :89- :3- :131-

mcumall GQ4x

C000


Foster's follow up answer is, as well.  :71-

By the way, if one wants to be security conscious, write 00 to the rest of the chip. FF is the state of an erased location, and 00 is fully written. Writing 00 to all unused blocks prevents any further information from being written to those blocks unless the entire chip is erased.

Well first they have to determine the VCC pin! The really expensive burners have sophisticated pin drivers that can drive any pin to any voltage and determine how much current it draws, so they power up each of the known VCC pins in turn until they find one that has the right characteristics. Then they cautiously raise the voltage on each known possible A9 pin in turn, watching the current, and if it gets up to 12V without looking like it has a protection diode to VCC they try to read the signature. If that fails they go through the other known low-voltage algorithms until one responds.

Glad to hear it!  :244- :244-