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Having a problem with an IGT Triple diamonds 3 coin 3 line. Battery went dead(Code 12) New battery. Code 61, 61_1, close door, reset key once. Reels spun, Insert coin lit, Fast flashing lower candle light. Wont take coins. Got Ram clear chip and bill validator chip. Cleared Ram and set validator. Same flshing candle. Checked inputs and outputs including door switch. Tried another mainboard with different chips. Same result. Only thing I haven't changed is the motherboard the main board plugs into. Frustrated and looking for advice as to what to try next.
   Thanks Wayne

Hi Wayne and Welcome....
Did you turn the reset key after you closed the door?
Code 61 the 61_1 close the door and turn the reset key.

Try that and post back.

Having problems and new at this. First my INSERT COINS is on solid, not flashing. Have a lower fast flashing candle. Will not take coins. Tested door switch inputs 13_0 when open, flashes 13_0 and 13_1 back and forth closed.(Normal?) Cleared Ram with chip. Set bill validator with chip. (I only have a coin comparitor and not sure what settings are other than $.25) Tried different Mainbord and chips. Reels spin. Any suggestions.
  Thanks Waynelk

Yes tried the reset key. Machine starts, reels spin, fast flashing lower candle. My insert coins is on solid not flashing. Not sure if that is right. I know the lower candle shouldn't flash. Book says Idle door open? Door inputs 13_0 with door open, flashes between 13_0 and 13_1 with door closed?

Just a stupid question - no chance that you have already fed max coins to the unit and just have not hit the spin button or tried pulling the handle ??

Your SET chip is for bills so you can put that notion aside for now.

The flashing or not flashing Insert Coins usually means that the door has just been closed. As long as its lit in one form or the other is good.
If your door was open your insert coins would be dark which means we would be looking at door optic problems rather than comparitor problems.

The first thing I would double check is that your Coin Comparior has a sample coin in it. If so take it out and reseat it.
Next double check that the wires that feed the wiring harness are inserted. Remove and reseat.
Try again.

If still no go there is a very small button on the coin optics directly below the coin comparitor. If you push this button it should give you 1 credit and let you play it just like normal (but with the door open).

Well, I think 13-0 flashing back and and forth from 13-0 to 13-1 is fine
when the door is closed
because what is going on is that the receiver optic is "reading" the emitter optic.

Does the machine accept any coins when the door is closed?
The flashing candle will not go away until after you've completed
at least one game...rarely, but sometimes, 2 games.

I just tried to answer this question on your other thread...
You're not supposed to have 2 threads with the same topic.

LINK REMOVED.  Link had pointed to the post above: Reply 5.









MODERATOR NOTE: Circular link created after topics were merged. SF :31-

No coins just fall through. You say it's normal for a fast flashing lower candle untill 1 or 2 games are played? If thats so maybe I should work on the coin comparitor. Should the insert coins be on solid or flashing?

Sorry I thought I posted the first in the wrong forum. Tried spin reels. Nothing. coins say 0. Will try to find button under coin comparitor. I am frustrated that everything seems to work but the machine wont operate. 300 lb. paperweight at this point. Thanks for the suggestions.
   Wayne

The candles are always screwed up.
Different casinos have techs messing up candle wiring all the time so it may not be correct.

"Coins falling through"  to where? the hopper or the coin tray?

If it's the coin tray, open the door and use a small small screwdriver and
turn the screw on the coin comparator all the way to the right,
back to the left than right again but stop halfway.
Also, wiggle the two gray wires on top of the coin comparator.
Those two wires control the rake.
Finally, if all that fails, pull out the coin comparator and
set the test options for "Coin-in B" and drop a coin into the coin-in optics boards.
The display should change from a zero to 1 if it works correctly.
Check the door emitter with a video camera and see if it "glows" or "blinks".
This doesn't work for the cabinet-side receiver though because the receiver never "lights" up.
If that doesn't work- tell us what SS and SP chips you have and
I will have even MORE information for you to try.
You have a lot of testing to do...try all this and report back your findings with
as much detail as possible and I'm am VERY SURE we'll get your machine up and running!

Found the button, pushed it, got 1 credit. Pushed spin reels. worked fine. Great suggestion. My guess is the coin comparitor is giving me problems yes? When I checked the coin drop optics 11_1 and 12_1 sometimes they registered and sometimes they didn't. I bought a coin comparitor but it was 13 volts and mine is 24 volt I believe. Red led on mine. 13 volt has green led. cc-16d(Mine) cc-16d ,INH,IGT 13VDC was what I bought. Anyone know good place to get another?

Betcha the 13V CC had two green wires on top.
I hope you didn't put that in your machine... :98-
I'd place an ad in the "Classified" section on NLG asking for a 24V Coin Comparitor.
I'm sure one of the vendor will be willing to sell you one!

Wayne   Before you go out and buy a new comparitor take a look at the other thread you started, reply #5  from Bunker, It just might help you. Only I would start out with the adjustment screw all the way CCW ( can be fine tuned later ) 

Yes green wires, mine are gray. Next thing I tried, I pulled the rake out in the back of the coin comparitor and put something behind it so any coin drops through. Problem is they go into the cash box and the optics don't seem to recognize it and give me credits. I am guessing the level probe in the bin is what works the solenoid for the gate to put it into the bin instead of the cash box? And also my coin optics are not working correctly? There are 3 leds on the coin optics? Do all have to register to see a coin or just one? At least everything works with the push button for credits so I am on the right track thanks to the forum help. I see some coin optics boards have 2 leds but mine has 3. What do you need to know to buy one? Number of pins on the plug?
    Wayne

Coins fall through to the coin tray. I pulled the rake out on the coin comparitor and blocked it open so all coins fall through. They go to the hole for the cash bin in the stand. I guess the solenoid would divert them to the payout bin if it was not full to the bolt for the level? Also my coin optics did not see the quarter and give me credit. I did test the 11_1 coin A and 11_2 coin B before and they were so-so. Sometimes they worked and sometimes they didn't. Does it have to pass through all 3 leds before it registers or just 1? You guys have already gotten me further than the 4 techs I have been asking questions. Because of the coin credit button on the optics board I know the machine will work if it just sees the coin and gives me credit. (P.S. my game prom is SP772 and my reel prom is SS6986) Looks like some coin optics boards have 2 led diodes and mine has 3. What do you need to know to get one? Number of pins?

Stout helped me out with coin optic problems. Turns out that the harness that goes to the coin comparitor was dry-rotted, once it was replaced volia, it worked. Might be the same in your position

ADMIN NOTE:

TOPICS MERGED BY ADMIN, TITLES LEFT AS ORIGINAL.

CAPTAINHAPPY :95-
 :nlg- ADMIN

Okay,
This might help you identify candle flashing codes   :89->>

[Two Stage Candle   
The top level signifies tilt/change conditions;
the bottom level signifies jackpot/door open conditions.  
If the drop door is opened and the drop door option is enabled in the self test mode,
the door open candle flashes at twice the normal door open rate.  
If the game is disabled, both levels are lit.]

Is your game in "disabled"  :5- or "Out Of Service" mode? :129-
That would be in option setting [9]

[Out of Service Page <90>   
If enabled {1}, this function renders the machine inoperative without turning the power off.  
The progressive displays and lamps are turned off, the change candle is lit,
the door candle flashes at the door open rate,
and the digits 1 through 9 scroll across in the
Winner Paid, Credits and Coins Played windows.]
 

Wayne let me ask a couple of questions.  has this machine ever worked for you, and has it always been a .25 cent machine?

For what it's worth, different SP chips have slightly different candle codes.  If memory serves, earlier ones would flash the lower candle rapidly when the door was open AND it would remain flashing after the door closed until one paid game has been completed.  Newer chips would stop the flashing of the candle once the door was closed, but then the "Insert Coin" lamp would flash until one paid game had been completed.

He has a fairly old SP772 chip?
I quoted the candle operation from the SP772 PSR actually...

Sorry if I implied that the information you posted was inaccurate -- that wasn't my intent.  Rather, there was some confusion earlier in the thread about the Insert Coin lamp flashing or not -- I was just adding my $0.02 to that.

The machine used to work great. It belonged to my brother who passed away. My nephew had it till it quit working. When I got it the battery was dead and he was poking around not having any idea what he was doing.Pulled MB, pushing test and reset buttons. It was always a 25 cent machine. My book says the flashing lower lite is idle door open. (Door switches are woking perfect though) I have gotten to where I think the problem is the coin optics boards not seeing the coins and the comparitor not working. I bypassed the comparitor by wedging the rake open so all coins pass through. It is a 3 led board and all 3 leds are lit looking through a camera. In test mode It sees coin drop once in a while. With a screwdriver I can trip it if I move the screwdriver back and forth. If I push the small button on the board it gives me credits and machine works fine with door open. I have some 8mm IR leds for my pinball machine. They are a bit big and if it's the reciever leds, which rarely go bad, I only have 1 of those. This forum has helped me immensely and I appreciate everyone helping out. I need to check the wiring connections for good contacts since the leds are lit I would think.
   Wayne

Good!
 The important detail you gave me was that while
 "In test mode It sees coin drop once in a while."
Is that test with the coin comparitor removed or are you still
dropping coins in from the top through the pulled back rake?

Try taking out the coin comparitor but leave it hanging with the
coin comparitor harness still plugged into the coin comparitor.
With the mouth of the coin-in optic sandwich boards wide open -
drop some coins into the slot of the sandwich while in the test mode
and observing the coin comparitor LED light.
Each time you drop a coin through the coin-in optics -
the LED light on the coin comparitor will momentarily go out.
Also, you will see the zero change to a '1' each time a coin
goes through the coin-in optic sandwiches.

We want to focus primarily on the coin-in optics boards registering 
that it is sensing objects going between the eyes.
I wish you had a known good spare optic board to try in the machine
as there could be a component on the coin-in optic
boards that is giving you intermittent coin sensing.
After you try this test without the coin comparitor, report back!
I have one last thing you can try before we go ahead and replace that board.

Another couple of things that causes intermittent coin sensing is the black
plastic coin guide in between the two coin-in optic boards.
The plastic "wedge" of the guide breaks off inside and the quarters
fall between the optic LEDs but miss one of the LEDs' light beam.
It's pure luck if your coins actually break all three optic beams if that "wedge" is busted off.
Sometimes there's no "wedge" at all because some tech back long ago decided
to go with a guide that was actually designed for a larger token.
( Those ones don't have the "wedge"
because the huge size of the tokens break the 3 beams every time! )

Here's a picture of two coin-in optic guides.
The one on the left is one that someone tried to glue something
 there one time and it broke off.
The one on the right is the right one you need to guide quarters
between the 3 holes I've encircled correctly!
Click on the photo to make it larger!>>>

Wayne    the flashing bottom candle is a non issue for home use. I'll explain later. as far as your problem with the coin -in issue : because you were able to coin the machine by pressing the button on the coin optic board the rest of the machine works as it should. Your problem is in the coin -in module, coin comparator or coin in optics or its wire harness. since you did this already, make a better test item to test the optics. I have always used a piece of rigid cardboard cut to the size of a popcycle stick. (The card board from the back of a legal pad)  then when you run the test you will get better results and see the changes as they occur. that unit accumulates dust and coin and metal filings so its possible that one of the tiny holes that allows the IR beam to hit the detector could be blocked. To get good results when shimming the rake out on the comparator, remove Q-2 or Q4 from the optic board, this allows operation with out any coin mech installed( meaning you could put a coin chute direct to the coin in optics and it would work). Not that is done but you get the idea! then check the cables : the one to the coin comp. should have 5 of the six used. A black, yellow,violet, and a red loop. the other is a five or ten pin connector (coin optics), the third is where all these connect to  the machine harness. check all these for pushed in pins and broken  wires. Hopefully you will find the problem, especially since the machine worked fine before the battery went dead.
The candle:used by security and floor personnel to tell status of machine, and by floor planners to place machines by denomination.Jackpot=both flash at the rate and time, door open=bottom flash a 1 sec. rate, tilt= both flash alternate same rate, etc.etc.  Colors =yellow 25cent, blue =dollar, red= nickel, orange=50
purple =5dollar, green= 25dollar, etc.etc.


Jim

Good stuff Jim! :89-
That's what I was going to tell him to try next!  :88-

You guys are the best. If I had gone here first I wouldn't be half crazy now. I was going insane trying to get the candle to stop flashing. Not sure what the Q2 or Q4 is but I'm guessing the plug? (New at this) I did get the coin comparitor to work by adjustment. Now coin goes into payout hopper but optics is not seeing coin and giving me credit. I cleaned the leds, holes, connectors, with contact cleaner. Bunker the guide is in there. I cut a piece of cardboard the width of a quarter. The coin chute is about 1/4 inch wider than a quarter at the bottom. NOW WHEN I PUT THE PAPER IN THE COIN OPTICS THE INSERT COIN LIGHT GOES OUT, I GET A WIERD UH NOISE, AND A CODE 21 SHOWS UP IN THE WINNER PAID WINDOW? Guessing thats a safety feature for coin on a string attempts? Have to close the door to get insert coin relit. i HAVE THE 10 PIN, 3 LED COIN OPTICS BOARD, AND AM GOING TO NEED TO FIND A NEW ONE. Bunker said the 2 led are for the 5 pin S2000 12 volt and not the S+ 3 led 10 pin 24 volt. The test mode check of the coin optics was without the comparitor as the book said to remove it. 10_1 test coin in A, remove comparitor and unplug, 11_1 test coin in B, 12_1 test coin in C.(B and C for encoder optic board) One other thing is I don't think the red led is lit always on my comparitor. When I did a comparitor test it lit. Thinking mine only light on slugs, jam, tamper,or wrong coin? This drove me nuts also thinking it should be lit. Had 24 volt AC Yellow wire, book said 24 volt DC but wire from motherboard schematic says 24 volt AC to comparitor. With the piece of paper the 11_1 and 12_1 work every time but not with the dropped quarter so as per bunker I think I need to look at the plastic guide a little closer. Update!!! Droping a quarter through works 1 in 10 times. Laying a quarter over led works every time. Speed of quarter going through is my problem. Guessing it's one of the chips on the board acting too slow so need new board?

We're getting somewhere!
I am almost 100% positive that coin-in optics are shot.
You were right about the '21' error code.

These are "ABC" optics.
The top one is "A", middle optic is "B" and the bottom optic is "C".
The computer MUST read the coin dropped as A,then,B,and finally C.
Putting in the paper gave the MPU a reading of ABC but,
when you pulled up on the paper- it gave the computer a
reading in this sequence>>>>A>B>C>and then B !    (SIRENS GOING OFF !!! :72-)
If you stick the paper in there and block the optics TOO LONG, then you ALSO get the "21"error code!

Now you have an idea how optics work.
You are right about a component taking too long to read the coins passing the beams...
faulty optic emitter or receiver perhaps...could be a number of things...
even a loose ground wire somewhere...

Place an ad in the "Classifieds" section of NLG and
I'm sure one of our esteemed vendors will be glad to sell you one!

This is a couple of pictures of the certain component Jim was asking you to remove.
They can be easily taken off with an sharp tip of an exacto knife or something stong and pointed.
I've attached two photos because sometimes they install the
Q2 on the OTHER side of the board between the 3 optics.
One of these boards, an optic is missing because I needed it to repair another board.
Basically it's become my "parts" board.....
that's why it's good to have extra boards and parts...you just  swap parts!
Click on the photo to enlarge it!>>>

Thanks to all who helped me. Couldn't have figured this out without you. I found a guy who has the optics board for $12 and he has the Triple Diamond reel and game chips for $25 (have a spare CPU board with chips for Wild Star RWB 5 coinMP) so I am going to get them and hopefully solve my problems. Waiting to see if he has the 24 volt coin comparitor and if so the price. Hopefully within a week I may be able to get this working and have some spare parts for the next problem. Thanks again to all. You make me think I almost know what I'm doing now. Stayouttadabunker, sorry about the double post, (Newbie) You are like the Slot Machine Guru and the last guy I want to upset. Jim, Buzz, Knagle thanks also. Between all of you anything is possible. Appreciate you taking the time.
   Wayne

 :97- :97- :97-
One thing for sure, I'm no slot machine guru!!! :72-
Believe me, there's a lot more guys that know a lot more about these things than I do! LOL
I wasn't mad about your double-posts...that happens a lot with newer guys - I was just trying to
let you know that it happened so you better not let it happen again! :14-
( just kiddin' ya!  :96- )


Hey! When your coin-in optics come in, can you give us an update?
That would be awesome!

You know I will update and I hope it's good news not HELP ME again. In the meantime I may try to play with my optics board, maybe with my 8mm infrared leds I can make a super optic board out of it? You helped me a lot more than the 4 slot techs who do this for a living and had me pulling my hair out. I went through this when I got my first pinball machine, my first roomba, my first computer. I'm no electronics expert and my wifes way of fixing electronics by pounding on them doesn't seem very scientific to me? Thanks again to all and as I learn more maybe I can chip in from time to time.
    Wayne

After you've hung around with us for awhile, you're gonna know more than those 4 slot techs... :72-
Don't tell them where you got your info from though...LOL
On top of that, they had to get poked and pinched by the federal government for
every detail about 'em including an FBI background check... :97-
Not only that...they had to PAY for it! :30-

OK first update and question. I noticed that the plug on the coin optics kept coming out when I bumped it so I bent the pins forward so it would pin the plug against the plastic. It started working and after the first spin the flashing lower candle went out. WOW The 300lb. flashing paperweight has a use. Still not perfect as it works best if you keep the coins to the left when you drop them. I need to check the 10 pin plug solder joints. My question is- Is there a setting so I can keep putting quarters in and build up the credits. Right now it will only take 3 quarters then you have to spin. I seem to remember when I played it at my brothers you could put like 100 quarters in and get 100 credits.
   Thanks Wayne

Yes,
It's called "Montana Credits"...
you have to ask a vendor if they will sell you an SP1137 game chip.
With this chip, all the coins you drop into the slot get added to the credit display!

Stout, why are they called "Montana Credits"?

IGT puts out PSR's called Program Summary Reports of each chip they make.
These reports include a more detailed info about the chips installed in your machine
and the PSR for the SP1137 calls this set-up - "Montana Credits".
This chip also has a few other different options and are named "Euro'Credits" and
all kinds of strange names... :96-

Saw this in a post. Standard Euro Credit, Euro Non Credit, or Semi euro II is probably what you want for extra coins to credit

Standard Euro Credit
Coins to game first then extra coins to credit

Euro Non Credit
Seems to be same as above

Nevada Style Credit
Max coin only and wins paid from hopper

Loto Style Credit
All coins to credit

Semi Euro Credit
Max coin only, wins to credit

Token Credit
Think it's an option when machine is tokenized, did not check as option does not show in setup {7}

Semi Euro II
Max coin then extra to credit

Yes,
Statfreak tried all the different options and it seemed like a couple were very similar.
I tried all the different styles too but have always liked the "Montana Credits".
We get on this subject about twice a year and I always lose all the documentation we had on it!
I have too much!!!  :7-  Can't find nothing on my computers anymore...LOL  :58-    :96-

Pachislo games have "Montana Credits" You can only load up 53 credits. The first 3 are used for the first game played. The rest can be used for play or stored. Japanese law states that you can only have payouts of 15 credits when you are in fever mode. This is to limit jackpot payback. So the most a person can have is 50 on the credit meter at one time. Now, you might say "What does this have to do with anything"? Well, nothing. Just wanted to add to the discussion. R

Japanese law is actually quite interesting. The law is based on a 5:1 payback. 3 metals played = 15 won.
Once they hit 50 the rest are paid to their hopper. To get around this the Fever mode was created where you are guarenteed a certain number of sequential wins.
I believe the 50 credit limit is related to libability and banking law. In that non-banking institutions are not allowed to "hold" funds. The metals are not supposed to hold value but as they can be redeemed for prizes they do have a nominal value and by limitiing credits to 50 it becomes a insubstantial amount. You won't find "lay a way" in any Japanese store.

As noted metals are traded for prizes, and cannot be redeemed for cash. Usually on the same block you will find a prize redemption center that just happens to want to buy your new stuffed bear for cash. Metals are either pachislo tokens or pachinko balls.