New Life Games Tech Forums

I have a IGT flavored DBV-200 with a flash ROM.
I noticed the board has holes for an EPROM socket
(the flash surface mount fits between the two
row of socket leg holes.)

Has anyone tried cutting the surface mount flash
out, installing a socket, and running the DBV-200
with an EPROM?

I heard of others on here doing it.

I am not sure if those posts got transferred or not I will search and see
I dont see anything about it currently
Hopefully those that have done this will chime in and give details.

I have done quite a few, every one worked well.  As per the previous post it is best to cut off the surface mount, I do it with a small Olfa knife.  Dont cut too hard, you don't want to cut the wire traces on the board.  After I cut it off, I make sure that the remaining ends are separate from each other, then it's as simple as soldering in a new socket and inserting an eprom.

There was a previous post that had pics, if it didn't get transferred then I'll take and post some pics.

Thanks,
Wayne

Here's how to convert a "flash rom" DBV-200
to an "EPROM" DBV-200, in pictorial format. I can't
flash DBV-200 heads (i don't have the software or
the serial cable), so having an EPROM is far easier
for me. Below are pictures of an IGT DBV-200 SS head.

The holes for the EPROM socket on the DBV head board are
already there. I tried both low-profile green and regular
black strip sockets. Both worked well.  The new socket for the
EPROM can't stick up further than the metal housing
(otherwise the DBV-200 won't mount correctly). The green
low-profile strip socket worked best, and standard black
strip SIP sockets also worked (but there's no room for
anything taller).  Before soldering the SIP socket strips in
place, i gently sanded (400 grit) the solder holes on the board
so the solder sticks nicely.

Also it is careful work removing the original Flash ROM.
I used a razor blade and cut all the pins on one side
of the chip. (Be careful not to cut the board or the board's traces.
Cut perpendicular to the board, towards the chip. This avoids
cutting the board traces.)  Then bend the chip up and back/forth
a couple times, and the chip breaks off. Lastly clean-up the
board with a fine soldering iron where the chip was cut with a razor
blade. This ensures none of the (very small) pins that were cut
and left behind on the board are not shorting to each other.

This same procedure can be applied to Wms DBV-200 SH/SG
bill validator heads too. I tested this and it works well for
the Williams/Bally heads.

(http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/igt/flshrom0.jpg)

(http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/igt/flshrom1.jpg)

(http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/igt/flshrom2.jpg)

(http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/igt/flshrom3.jpg)

(http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/igt/flshrom4.jpg)

(http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/igt/flshrom5.jpg)

(http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/igt/flshrom6.jpg)

(http://www.pinrepair.com/slots/igt/flshrom7.jpg)

Outstanding! .. Good Karma to you!  :3-  :137-  :131-

I don't use those low profile sockets and haven't had a problem with the eprom clearing.  I do like those sockets though.
W

I do this with the olfa knife also,  I had tried with solder wick but found the olfa knife was easier and quicker with better results.

Thanks,
Wayne

I did a williams dbv-200 head today, and it works fine too.
I also used standard black strip sockets instead of the
green low-profile strips. That did also work fine, but man
there's no head room. it's close, but it works.  and when
cutting the original flash ROM out, cut towards the chip
(perpendicular to the board), to avoid cutting any board traces.

Ok stupid question from a nubie: What is the purpose of the conversion? Is it so that you can install the new $5 bill software or some other reason? Please let me know. Still trying to learn it all. thanks

NO SUCH THING AS A STUPID QUESTION ON OUR FORUM!!!  :60-

You hit it right on the head about the desire to upgrade the software in the head. The flash models require specialized programming equipment that not to many people out there have. I have a couple DBV and WBA programming setups, but I am lucky!  :71- :71-

Feel free to explore and ask away! Enjoy our site!  :89- :89-


CaptainHappy :95-
 :nlg- ADMINISTRATOR

Good answer Captain. 

I would like to add that the cost of shipping the heads somewhere to be updated then return shipping is much higher than that of shipping an eprom.  Also you have some down time while you wait, when you could be using older bills til the eprom arrives.  If I lived close to someone that can flash it, I wouldn't bother, But I'm in Canada and eproms make much more sense to me.  It's an easy modification.

Thanks,
Wayne

Just a note that there isn't much New $5 software available for the 200 heads in Gaming, mostly just the Bally (as of right now 10/08), but for anyone who does need the heads flash, we still do it for $15 including cleaning and calibrating, but when you have many to do the Flash is easier, that is why there are both types

$15 is very reasonable. 

I wish they would make the $5 update for the WBA 10/11.


Thanks,
Wayne

Does anyone offer a unit already converted and programmed for the new colored money?  If so what do they sell for?  Thanks, Matt

Sure they are available, we have them ready to go or will flash yours to the new $10 bill, that is the newest it going to take on the S+ platform in a 200 head or we can sell you one outright, cleaned, upgraded, calibrated and tested

Quick question on this conversion. Is the eprom strip soldered at each hole in the board or just at the ends. I haven't attemped the conversion yet but am getting ready for a try.

Yes, you solder it at evey hole, or the pins won't make contact.

Thanks!! :88-  I suspected as much but wanted to verify before I plunged in and made more work for myself :89- :103-

Just make sure you put the socket in the right way if you use one. The 'notch' (top) end is printed on the board, but one can easily forget that step and put it in backward. In any case, just make sure you plug the eprom in the right way. The notched end goes to the right above the switches as shown here.

(http://www.marks-home-theater.com/stuff/dbv200.jpg)

Thanks again, I was looking at the pictures again in the thread thinking about just that thing.  no need to have  :98- :284-

Also when you reassemble things, double check the dip switches to be sure you didn't accidentally flip one. I had one that did not work at first because a switch got halfway flipped.

Old post ...but update. I did a few of these for a guy and found using a hot air station the best way to remove the flash chip or if you do not have a hot air station, use solder wick and a good iron. . I hate telling anyone to go at a circuit board with a sharp blade!!  If anyone needs help doing this job contact me..