New Life Games Tech Forums

Hello Again....

Thanks to all the help on my door optics, we are running good on that!  Untill I hit the payout button.....

Current problem, I keep getting 3300 and 3200 error codes (not at the same time).  Hopper empty and coin out/time out (no idea what that means) error.  The hopper is full and according to the door codes, just opening and closing the door will clear these error codes.  Nothing is clearing?  I've never seen the hopper work, but I checked for jams and everything looks ok, I put everything back together and now the 3200 code.  My question is:
1)  Can I get the hopper just to run in a test mode?
2)  Is there different ways to clear codes?  There is only one button near the on/off switch and the key for the outside of the game.
Thanks!
John

http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/ (http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/)

I just had this on an s2000. If you've never seen or heard the hopper move might be you have a bad hopper motor. If it's not been used for a long time you can sometimes clean and grease motor bearings and get it to work. Remove and empty hopper. You should be able to spin shaft of motor without to much difficulty. If not, then try as I suggested till it spins pretty easy. Reassemble and see if it works. Good Luck!

First off make sure you are getting the door latch all the way down, if the optics can't see each other they don't know the door is closed. Can you hear the hopper trying to run ( pay out )?? Are you sure the hopper is in the lower  guides and plugged all the way in?? I may be wrong on this one, there is a hopper test but I don't think you can get to it when in a tilt mode. ( 3300 & 3200 )

3200 / 3300 are hopper errors not door errors

The way the hopper works is that slot provides power to the motor and it moves coins past a coin optic.
When the correct number of coins are counted the motor powers off.
The motor is however a big honkin thing that has a fair bit of momentum and it will continue turning even when the power is turned off.
On the back of the hopper there is a leaver on a spring - this is solinoid controlled. When the power is cut the solinoid retracts and the spring
brings the leaver down which acts as a brake to ensure the hopper stops (on a dime - ha ha) immediately.

With regards to a 3200 error you usually get these when an extra coin is counted.
The first thing to check is your hopper brake. It is common for the little spring to go missing or be busted.
If this is the case you can steal the spring from an old pen - cut it shorter and use that.

A 3300 generally means your hopper is empty. This is pretty much sensed by the motor running but no coins being counted. This is a timing issue.
In the old days people would cheat by shining a light pen inside the machine and temporarily blinding the count and by pulsing the light on/off you could get the machine to dump all its coins.
If you left the light on the 3300 would artifically occur as the coins were passing but not being seen.

If the hopper is full it could be that your optic is loose, dirty, missing or incorrectly positioned for the type of coin you are using.
First locate the optic. This looks like a U shaped piece of plastic near the back of the hopper ---- it was moved to the back as a security measure used to defeat the light pen trick.
As the coins are lifed by the hopper wheel the coin passes through the optic. If the optic is mounted too high --- Ie this may be a dollar hopper and you are running quarters then the coin won't be sensed.
The optics could also just be dirty. Coins are not clean or so my mother says. Using a q-tip and some water (never use alcohol) just run it on the inside of the optic and clean off 20years of accumulated casino funk.

Jay  let me ask you, will the hopper motor turn with the door open? I never said 3200/3300 were door errors, what I said was I don't think you can get to hopper test with either 3200 or 3300 tilt showing!!   I may be wrong on that one, I'm not going to tilt one of my machines to find out!!  I think if you read the start of this thread he said "I've never seen the hopper work" OK clean the optics that should fix it

Buzz,

On the S+ you can do a hopper test with the door open.... you just have to be a good catch....   :72-
I think the moment you hit the test button to get to the test options the 3200/3300 will clear.....

Thanks Everyone!  I will have some time in the morning to check the optics.  When I had the hopper apart, I was unable to spin the motor more then a 1/4 inch.  Is there gears I could harm trying to turn this? 
I will report more tomorrow!

Take the hopper out of the machine...with your left hand hold the brake arm flat against the motor.
With your right hand, reach inside and rotate the agitator clockwise.

Bunker, you should have added, now do the hokie pokie and shake....  
Just funin.

w

 :97- :97- That would have been an excellent suggestion!... :96-

The hopper brake should prevent this from moving at all.... but it does sound like your brake is working.
Once you release the brake you should be able to move it - not quite freely but easier. Its a direct drive motor.

Ok, here is the update:

I do have the spring attached in the back of the hopper by the motor.
I was able to push the break and spin the hopper.
I cleaned the optic on top of the hopper and noticed a piece of tape that seemed out of place, but I left it alone (see photo).
Put everything back together and still get the 3200 coin out error.

Is it possible the code isn't resetting and the problems are fix or is that unlikely?
Jay said if I hit the test button my hopper should spin and codes clear, that's not working either.
Thanks,
John

See the bolt on top?
Take that off and throw the whole top part away into the garbage.
Move the hopper optics to the top and secure it with the blue bolt.
When you're done, place a bout 3 0r 4 quarters onto the shelf between 12 and 4 o'clock and slowly turn the agitor with your hand watching the quarters go through the optics without getting jammed or falling off the shelf before reaching the optic eyes.
If they go through the optics and roll down off the ramp like they are supposed to - then put the hopper back into the machine, press you test switch about 9 times until you see a "3" in the "Coins Played" window, press the spin button or turn the reset key to kick out 10 coins.
You can enlarge the photoshopped picture below by clicking on the picture.
Doesn't this look more like an offensive play Joe Montana used to win the Superbowl?>>>

Pressing the test button will clear the error when you close the door. It won't cause the hopper to spin.
You would need to step through to the menus to the hopper test for it to run.

I agree with Jay...
also, I'd like to add..."tape" should not be anywhere near a hopper.
Remove it if possible...it may be impeding the flow of coins out towards the exit ramp
 and causing the coins to fall off the shelf before they get a chance to pass through
the optics causing the empty hopper code as well.

Good Morning,
I have removed the optics as suggested and placed the "magnet" sensor in its place.  (See photo) Still having the 3200 error.  To the left I'm holding the removed optic and to the right you can see the magent sensor mounted in its place.

The only way I can get into the "test" mode is to have the door close and turn the reset key.  After hitting the reset key I believe Im in the test mode?  I've uploaded a youtube video for some better discriptions of my problem.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kmk0lhvlKQ4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kmk0lhvlKQ4)

Thanks,
John

Sorry here is the photo of the hopper optic update

Actually, when you turned the reset key - you were in accounting mode.
The machine was showing that there's 21,588 "coins in".
Then you went over and hit the Credit/cash button which threw
it out of accounting mode back into error code mode.
Instead of hitting the cash/credit button, hitting the spin button would have
shown you the second page of the accounting mode which would of shown you "coins-out" numbers.

Turning the reset puts you into accounting mode whenever the machine's door is closed.
However, this only shows you the "books" and will not help you get rid of the "3200" error code.

Try to follow this next set of instructions to a T and report back to us and we'll take it from there okay?
Here we go>>>

Open the door, up where the power switch is, there should be a little white test button...
Sometimes it's right next to the power switch just to the left of it on the orange sticker.
Other times, reach behind that little power switch box and the test switch will be right behind it!
Why IGT sometimes put it there is beyond me.

Anyways, when you find it, each press of that test button is actually flipping you through test pages.
Now, press the test button while watching the display panel on the door.
Keep pressing it about 8 or 9 times until you see a "3" in the "Coins Played" window.
What that is...is the page for the hopper test.
Now, with the door wide open, turn the reset key momentarily.
The hopper should turn and try to spit out 10 coins.
Each time you briefly turn the reset key, the hopper will try to count out ten coins.
Watch the hopper carefully as the coins are coming out to see if they're jamming up
against anything or fall off the coin shelf back into the hopper bowl.
You must have at least 3 - 4 four handfuls of coins in the hopper bowl for this to work good.
After you do this test...tell us exactly what happened
and we can give you some more help!

THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR THEIR HELP & PATEINCE! :131-

I believe that my test switch isn't working!  Nothing is changing when I press or hold the switch.  My test switch is located right next to the power switch. The box seems to be pretty secure to the machine.  There is one screw, but nothing seems to be easily removed?  HELP!

I got the box apart and will try and hit the shack for new a new switch!

There may be nothing wrong with your test button...
sometimes it doesn't work when there's credits on the display.
You need to get the hopper to kill off the credits...
a ram clear chip would be helpful for this situation.
It's also possible that your hopper is designed for a larger token and the quarters,
when sitting on the shelf, don't get picked up by the hopper optics.

It looks like you did a great job with the hopper optics!  :3-
The quarters should get picked up from the bottom of the bowl,
ride up onto face of the wheel towards the outside getting caught with the wheel nipples.
By the time they're at between 2 an 4 o,clock, they're sitting on top of the quarter shelf.
Then they continue on the edge under the kicker onto the top of the knife at 12 o,clock.
The coins then ride up onto the knife and pass between the hopper optics.
Each coin passing through the optics gets a signal sent back to the MPU -
to count as a credit being paid out.
Then they continue along over the top of the knife and down the ramp out
towards the door and fall into the coin tray.

You can see this happening very slowly if you place a few coins in the grooves on the
wheel at about 1 and 3 o'clock, releasing the brake with your left hand and
rotating the wheel counter clockwise with you right hand.
I want you to see the quarter actually riding up onto the knife and passing between the optics.
That is the correct way to check an S+ hopper.
If the coins fall off before they go over the top of the knife,
then the knife needs to be adjusted, cleaned , and/or replaced!

By the way, the optics are inside the two black plastic piece where there quarters ride in between.
When you saw the machine at the vendors, did the hopper work there?
Did quarters come out of it?
If there's no power going to the motor, then I'd like you to check the 3 fuses on the front of the power supply box.
I believe they're 6 Amp 250V, 8Amp 250V, and 6 Amp 250V  >>> from top to bottom.

In another closely related thread here on NLG, I took a photograph of what the fuse should look like.

 

Sorry, I changed this cuz I'm a bonehead and don't pay attention to page numbers before I reply. :30-

Ok, all fuses look good!  Motion on the hopper and knife look good.  What do I tackle next?

Power to the hopper.

This is one way to test your hopper to see if the
motor and it's components are operational.
This one has the lift gate still installed.
Yours has just the plain hopper optics attached to the top of the hopper.>>>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FE2lEmcFqaY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FE2lEmcFqaY)

Great News, Haywire is up and running!  BIG THANKS to everyone for putting up with the rookie slot machine owner!! 
1 down 2 to go.  Next project is the Universal All in One....stay tuned!

Only fair that you tell the rest of us what it took to get it working

Details, details, details... :96-

Well, I did everythiing.....After removing the hopper about 20 times, cleaning, testing, & repeat.  On the 21st time I decided to check out the wiring harness where the hopper "plugs" in.  All in all it appears to be a poorly crimped wire!  There were issues sure, but I think the wire was the problem.  That my story and I'm sticking to it!  :)

The 2 bottom ones are for 115Volts.
Those are the ones I used with a power cord to send
power to the hopper in the video above.

That's where I started, I hooked up my meter to test if there was power.  I had to push pretty hard to get the probes in and the bottom right probe slipped and I knocked off the wire.  Got her back on and she worked.  I still think there were other issue or I wouldn't have got the error codes.  I'm still having a little problem with the bill acceptor continually running, but other then that....

See? It was your fault!  :72-
Thanks for letting us know what the problem was
and how it was finally resolved. :3-
This thread may or may not help someone in the future! :5-