New Life Games Tech Forums

 :99- Well I was changing out some light bulbs in my S+ and I flipped it on to check them all out....and Then  :60-
that acrid odor of something in my machine that was WAY too HOT  :50- 
I turned the machine off, and started the old bloodhound/firemans nose routine, it took a while, pulled the MPU board and it looked ok , then
 :98-    bottom back corner of the motherboard!  Crap! its burned to toast  :8-  R-3 is burnt up!  So Do I need to replace the motherboard, or try to find
a replacement? Given that I am not the best in the world at soldering... :60-  Suggestions Gentlemen

(http://)

If it were me i would try to replace the fried component. If there was no major damage to the board itslef.

 :30-  My skill at reading schematics sucks.  By my reading of the manual,
 R-3 is  {Resist.comp 3.9 OHM .5W RC20* } is that correct?
What does this control on the machine?   :103-

Where do I find one, I haven't bought anything like this years!  :60-

Radio Schnack might carry them...any small electronics store really...
Just take a sharp pair of snips and cut down as low as you can next to the board...
We'll talk about soldering later...

Maybe you might want to pick up some soldering paste, de-soldering braid,
soldering wire (smallest ones they have)
a soldering stick, tiny pointy snips, a tool box to hold all this,
a nice magnifying fluorescent adjustable architectural lamp,
some rough sandpaper, and an industrial fan (to blow the fumes away),
a fold-able roll-away workbench.
Yeah, that should do it...
by the time you gather all these components together,
you will have wasted enough money to buy about 50 motherboards...!
                                     or
You can place an ad in the "Classifieds" section of NLG asking for an S+ motherboard
which you simply Paypal a vendors email address and they'll send
it directly to your house - then its just a plain swap.
Your choice! 

3.9 ohm, half watt, is not a common value. I don't mean you can't get them, but you'd probably have to go to a distributor and buy 100. For a quick repair, buy a packet of 10 ohm (brown-black-black), 1/4W - these are a Radio Shack type value - take three of them side by side, twist the leads together and solder them as a single unit in place of the old one. That ends up as 3.3 ohms, 3/4 watt. If you can buy 12 ohm resistors (brown-red-black) you will end up with a closer value, 4 ohms, but 12 ohm resistors may not be so easy to find in the mall.

The value is unlikely to be critical. It's probably in series with a lamp, to limit the inrush current when the lamp turns on.

Went to Radio Shack after dinner and found these. They look to be correct?
But since the original is incinerated I cant tell based on the color coding. 
R4 looks to have gotten pretty warm, can I test with a multimeter to  see if it is still
good or should I replace it while I am at it.  Can anyone confirm these are the right resistors please   :99-

(http://)?

NO do not use those,  they are 3.9K ohm or 3900 ohms    your denomination lamp probably won't lite if you put that in !   you need a 3.9ohm  .5watt  resistor

if you find a 4 ohm resistor as the schematic shows, it probably won't make that much of a difference.   

you must have the wrong bulb in that fixture!  On the S+ ,for that lamp you are dealing with 7vac, # 86 bulb. that circuit  places b grd. on one side of the resistor threw the resistor and to the one side of the lamp, threw the lamp filament, and to 7vac hot.

good luck

JIM

Thanks for the heads up Jim.. I was in hurry,  oh well I am only out a buck! :96-
Yep I was trying a new led for the denom light when the problem started!  Crap :30-
Burnt up my own board being stupid!!!  Well I'll check for a different resistor tomorrow..
Anybody got a spare motherboard they sell cheap to a stupid fireman???  :200-

Jim,
What would happen if Magic just jumped the burned out resistor
with a wire for now until he's able to find the correct one?
Would it cause more damage?
And Magic, don't do this until we get an answer! lol
Or you're gonna have to work overtime!  :98-

Actually, the Denom light still worked when I put the #86 back in.  But I REALLLLLY wanted to find out where the smell
was coming coming from, so I pulled the plug, and started the hunt.  :58-
 It wasn't worth leaving the game running, I didnt want to start a cascade failure!  :52-

Back to the other question, can anybody tell me the proper color coding on the correct resistor?? please please puullease!  :12-

I always used this one...

http://www.dannyg.com/examples/res2/resistor.htm (http://www.dannyg.com/examples/res2/resistor.htm)

You might be able the read the nearby resistor color...should be the same.
I don't have a S+ by me at the minute...can U believe that?   :96-

Orange/ White / Gold

Another site;

http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Resistor_Codes (http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Resistor_Codes)

Believe it or not...

Tthis was the "nice" way to remember the resistor color codes in high school.
I think it's highly dis-regarded memory tip in science classrooms nowadays I'm sure...>>>


Bad Boys Ravish Only Young Girls But Violet Gives Willingly

I found a place right here in town that sells them:

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=2966484 (http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=2966484)

Of course it an electronics mega-warehouse, and they would probably make me ship them, even though they are only a few mile away...
A penny a pc, and $12.00 to ship... :101-

can order them from here for .55 cents  (10 pack)

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=002-3.9 (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=002-3.9)




EDIT>> $3.95 shipping

The resistor is only there to limit the inrush current for an incandescent bulb. When the filament is cold it can take 10 times the current it draws when it's hot. So it's common to put a small resistor in series with bulbs that turn on and off frequently - it makes the bulb last MUCH longer.

You can jump (short) this out without fear of anything except a somewhat reduced lamp lifetime. If you are changing to LEDs you don't even have to worry about that.

Thanks Op-Bell, I am still hunting a good led replacement for the #86 bulb.  Ive seen some threads on here
but I still haven't gotten the right bulb.. :37- {obviously}  I am really open to suggestions...
 I am gonna try Frys tomorrow, maybe they will have the right resistor.
Do you thin that R4  may have been damaged when R3 had its meltdown?
Are the Coin accepted /Insert Coin on this same feed?

You'll probably find one at Frys, though for very low resistances like that (under 10 ohms) you may have to buy a larger size than half-watt. That value - half-watt - is how much overload it can take before it makes a "brown" smell and burns out. You can use a 2W, they're bigger but not much. I doubt if the neighboring resistor was harmed. I don't know the answer to the last question.

Still haven't made it to Frys, that place is a madhouse on Saturdays, but I did get the burnt resistor de-soldered and removed.
The board still passes the continuity test  :25- So now I guess I just gotta find that darned little resistor.
Man do I feel stupid burning my board up this way :127-

Don't feel stupid, feel educated, because we all learn the hard way sometimes!


Thanks,
Wayne

A lot of us buy extra parts for days like today...
that way, all you gotta do is swap parts and presto!
You're back up and running!
Keep a look out for spare parts for your machine and
snatch 'em up! :89-

I am working on that very thing, following up on a couple of leads.  I may be able to get a spare MPU/motherboard combo here locally for
about 50-60 bucks and a 1 hour drive...if not I am just gonna post an ad in the classifieds here...

 :98-     Burnt resistors SUCK!

so...you should have your machine back up and running tonight!  :96-

Well....maybe.....  I have applied a fix with piggybacked resistors that I got from Frys  :37- 
No they didn't have the right one either  :30-
So I piggybacked 2  1/4 watt 1.5ohm units together.  But I think I screwed up, it should have the .5 watt rating,
but I think that the ohms resistance is going to be too low... :60-
So I am just gonna leave the Denom bulb out until I can get the correct one for the board.
I am still waiting to hear back from the local guy that has some parts.

That's ok. If you make one resistor from several, and they share the load equally, they split the power equally too - so two 1/4W = one 1/2W

And since it's just an inrush protector, the value is relatively unimportant. The lamp, once lit and up to temperature, is very much more than 3 ohms - probably more like 100 ohms.

 :140- So its ok to light the Denom lamp??  I dont want any more Brown smell   :118-

I reckon it's ok. It can only have been a fault that burned it out in the first place, like a shorted lamp.

If the LED had wires on all 4 sides of the contact pads instead of folded over on just one side you had a short right there, Positive to Negative at the contact, Automotive style LED bulbs use the 4 wire type and will fry boards

Thanks guys, yep it was a shorted lamp. I found out that indeed the two legs of the led were touching each other at the bottom of the socket.
Therefore I continue my Quest to find the BEST led replacement for the #86 bulb. Any and all suggestions will be considered  :3-
Only from now on, I am going to buy them, not make them! :81-

By the way....     :wa
The machine IS back up and running!    :136-

Excellent! :244-

Glad to hear it is up again!! :94-

I knew you were gonna get it going tonight!!!
Now, get us a winner on the payline!  :136-

 :148- No big winners on the payline, but during reassembly...curiosity led me to find out that I
now have $350.00 worth of legal tender (tokens) in the hopper, didn't check the bill stacker.  I knew these
machine would work out to be nice expensive piggy banks.   :123-

My resistors go Red, Blue, Red, Gold... from looking it up it says it is a 2.6k 5%.... I replaced with a 2.7K OHM 2% but have not tried it yet.. Is this the right one? I know I can just jump this out if I use a LED but I am reverting back to a regular bulb for now..