New Life Games Tech Forums

Hello,

Looking for the right way to wire the hopper to the machine harness  :99-.  When I picked up the machine everything was removed and I'm slowly trying to get everything back together.  I thought the hopper wire colors would match the harness, but no such luck :25-.
Thanks :131-
John

Can I see the plug on your hopper?

On a different note, I've never seen a top box quite like that one that's on your Dazzling Sevens machine.
Even the paytable on the award glass looks like a Double Diamond clone somewhat...hmm...interesting really.
The sevens look like Bally sevens though...funny machine...looks like a cross between a Bally & IGT? :103-

knowing my luck, I bought some wacky game! :149-

Miller,
Your hopper needs an SSR first AND the bracket that bolts down
to the floor using the 4 bolts coming out of the floor in the middle there.
You cannot plug these directly into the hopper
or you will burn something out.  :98-
The SSR's (Solid State Relays) use 5 wires.
I'm not sure why you're showing me 6 wires...
Do you have them coming from an SSR somewhere out of you picture?
This is what an S+ hopper SSR looks like>>>

I know I have the box (see photo) and I think I have a diferent looking SSR.  These photos may help???

That black box attached to the hopper plug bracket is what we're looking for!
Okay...there should be 5 male tabs coming out of it...
Looks like this.
Click on picture to enlarge it!>>>

I've got one with 6 prongs and a center post.  Looks the same as my Haywire only different wire colors.

That goes into the big rectangle hole on the face of the bracket with 2 special "wiggle" bolts.
The bolts are made so that the female receptor/receiver outlet is allowed to
move up and down to make lining up the hopper pins and female holes easier.
This whole plug unit will be destroyed if you don't use the special screws...
I've seen one too many of them shattered to pieces when a
nervous newbie shoves his rusty, sticky hopper in too hard.
There's signs of rust on your hopper tangs too!
The grooves on your floor slides look okay though.

I am wondering if I need to get my glasses checked, but is anyone else noticing that the picture 2.jpg is backwards??? It looks like you took the picture of the image in a mirror??? Are you messing with my mind, should I just give up for the day and take a nap to rest my mind??? :5- :200- :5-

Is this a job for Dr. House?????????????  :103- :79- :79- :79- :99-

CH :95-

The hard part is: He keeps hiding the bloody wires!!!!Arghhhh!!!!    :30- :72-

I need to see where those 6 wires are coming from so
I can point him in the right direction as to where they go!  :25-

Yes, somehow I flipped the photo to a mirror image  :5-

Here is another shot of the wires!

From what you've shown me so far, I can only verify that the green w/yellow stripe wire
and grommet at the end of it is a ground wire which will attach to the back bolt on the left for the bracket.
The other green wire is also a ground wire...however, that one has black electrical tape on the end of it...
Now this is only a guess at this moment until we figure what the other wires are for from visual pictures.
So I think the green wire with the tape is also a ground but might of had
the connector pulled out of it and it would have went into the ground tab on the SSR's black box.

Do you have a multimeter?
If so, place all the other 6 wires with the white tab connectors on a small piece of plywood
or block of wood so that none of them can come into contact with the metal floor.
Use a nut and bolt the green w/ yellow stripe wire to one of the floor post threads snug.
Get a pad and paper and write down all the readings you get with each wire connector
with the red lead of the multimeter in one of them, and the black lead to the metal floor.
Write down the reading of that wire from your multimeter- with the power on.
Remember to first set your multimeter on the highest setting for AC current, because
2 of those wires will carry 115 Volts AC. When you have all the readings from the 6 wires...
report back then we will know exactly what goes where!

If you don't have a multimeter and are too scared to risk the shock of getting 115 Volts
rushing through your body and send you trembling out the door with fear -
Leave the POWER SWITCH OFF!
Instead, take some of the black electrical tape off of the harness going back then as it splits going to the right side.
Those wires are the ones that we need the colors and locations of to see which ones go onto the SSR tabs.
This of course, requires you to take a few more good pictures.
You're getting better at it really!
No shaking of the camera and getting good light on them to discern what color is what.
For some reason,
if this is indeed an IGT machine, I cannot for the life of me figure out why
the colors aren't the normal colored wires we always see in other IGT's.

Dazzling Diamonds ??  :103- :103-
Wasn't that a Uni game that copied Double Diamonds??
But yours is not Uni because glass and reel strips are different size in Uni's. Strange!

Nice "All-In-One" though!

Thanks, I can't get the All In One working either!  I guess that will be another followup post!

Maybe these pictures will help?

Thanks Ohio!
The problem with Millermaster's machine is that he has totally different colored wires....
They are not like the normal orange and doubled up green ground wires we usually see.
I'm suspecting that it's a pre-DBV S+ and a bit of a Hybrid of some sort.
First, I 've never seen the transformer on the left in a S+.
Maybe it's an "M" or early straight "S" model?
Here's a couple of photos from a Pre-DBV S+.
Click on photos to enlarge.>>>

you have a " S "  slot machine, to verify, you should have three connectors that go to your main logic board, located on that alum. tray at the back of the machine, two on the top and one on the lower right side.  you have 7 connections that make up your hopper plug, 2 are for the 115vac (trace the two connectors from the motor to the pinouts), 1 for the hopper overflow ( trace it from the probe in the bowl to the pinouts)  3 for the optics (trace them back as well  and 1 ground. If you can read schematics, go to the repair manual in the submit file section and look at pages 42,24, 25 this explains the overall connections.  the SSR, one side of the output has the 115vac  input from the machine power distribution tab, when the relay is energized, it put that voltage on the other output which goes onto the hopper plug and thru the connection and to one side of the motor. the other side of the motor goes out the plug and to the a/c (115vac) neutral side of the power distribution tab. the inputs to the SSR come from the logic board connectors, as does the overflow and the optics. I'll have to dig out my S manual to tell you where the inputs come from. YOU WILL NEED TO TRACE THESE WIRES BACK TO THE RESPECTIVE CONNECTOR, EITHER BY A VISUAL, OR WITH A METER.

Jim 

Jim,
Great information...
Did all the straight "S" machines have their transformer located there on the left?
Was that and the different colored wiring what told you that it was an "S"?

the S models had all that stuff located on the left side of the machine, there was the main power switch,the white test button, the three fuses, a power outlet, the transformer, and a light bulb/with switch. this looks as if someone transferred the guts of the machine and added their own things????  never saw the on/off and fuses mounted like that either! that whole bottom assembly could be removed as one unit, similar to that of a S+, the speaker was mounted above this assembly underneath the shelf unit that housed the reels.

The reason I pegged it as a S model  was the aluminium tray configuration, it had a cutout on the top as pictured, this is where the two wire bundles were routed when the board was secured in place with a screw.


Jim

this is according to a S model manual I have: wiring schematic
Hopper plug is J-19
hot 115vac from line filter to  pole of on/off switch to Fuse 3 to pin 2 of transformer, from there to one post on the load terminal of the SSR.
common side of 115vac from line filter to other pole of on/off switch to pin 1 of transformer, from there to pin 12 of hopper plug.
Pin 11 of the hopper plug goes to the other load post on the SSR. (when relay is energized puts 115vac to the motor to turn it on)
Pin 8 of the hopper plug goes to pin 6 of J-1 (coin out signal)
Pin 7 of the hopper plug goes to pin 8 of J-1(hopper full signal)
Pin 9 of the hopper plug goes to pin 1,2,3,4,6 of J-4 (7/8 vac common)(this wire also goes to the ground post on the SSR)
Pin 10 of the hopper plug goes to pin 10 of J-4 (+vb) approx 10/12 vdc
Pos. #2 of the SSR goes to pin 16 of J-4
Pos. #1 of the SSR goes to pin 22 of J-1

Hope this helps     Jim   

Thanks to everyone for their help!  Hopefully this weekend I can hook up the volt meter and record my findings.  My game appears to be different then most......some other new guy observations.....I will need a replacement reset key that can support 4 wires (seems weird) and the coin/credit counters are behind the top glass and the fuses keep blowing???
Thanks again,
John

Let me know when you get to the Uni machine, we'll get that up and running too!  :89-

First we need to isolate the power connectors coming out of the transformer an inline filter with the multimeter.
To get the fuses to stop blowing you will need about 2 packs of 6Amp and a pack of 8Amp quick blow fuses.
All want hooked up for now is the power switch from the transformer and the hopper wires.
Disconnect the motherboard and MPU power wires for now or you gonna screw those up.
Then you'll be crying about burned up MPU boards...lol
We want to check those wires going to the hopper first.
If you disconnect everything except the switch, and a fuse STILL BLOWS -
then there's a major short in and around the transformer or power switch box.