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How many slots are safe on one circuit?

Can an S+, Bally 6000, Dotmation, Reel Touch and and I-game be plugged in on one 15Amp breaker?.      How much current would they draw?  :98-

I was at a friends house and he had 10 maybe more machines and was just curious about the electric situation. 

Hmm,  I had a sheet on this somewhere but seem to remember a Bally S6000 drawing about 230 watts idle, S-Plus should be close, iGames and Reel Touch would be more.  I have had about 16 machines on 1 circuit, but have 3 circuits for 35 machines now.

W

When I built my game room I had each recepticle home run back to the electric panel with a 15 amp circuit breaker.   Each recepticle has a heavy duty surge protector to which I plug in 3 to 5 machines.  Whatever you do make sure you DO NOT skimp on the surge protector.

 I have an S+ and 4 Igames on one circuit, 3 dotmation and 2 WMS550 on a circuit and 3 S2000 (1 reel touch) on a circuit. Never had any problems

I cant remember the size of the wire that was used but I most of my had machines on hand when I met with the electrician and he took it from there. From what I do remember the machines do not draw that much unless the hopper is paying out.  Dotmation says right on the plate below the serial number 4 amps.

Yea, unless you have all the machines paying out at once, not that much current. Remember P=I*E    (Power=amps*volts) Configure it anyway you want to get p, i , or e.

I read in some IGT manual somewhere that they recommended no more than 6  S+'s per 15Amp outlet.
I hope this helps a little?
I'd throw in a 20Amp breaker just to feel safer or bring in an electrician
after determining the maximum amperage each machine needs to help the electrician.
One way you can do this is look at each machines' manual.
There must some info in there what each machine needs.

The hopper payout is the key. If you do not activate the hoppers simultaneously, then more machines can be attached to lighter duty breakers. If you have to be concerned with the grand kids pushing every cashout button on every machine you've got, then you have to use more caution. :96-


I have eight slots and a TNG pinball in one spare bedroom and have never had an issue. I'm fairly sure that they are all on the same circuit since most homes use one breaker for all of the bedroom floor plugs. I don't usually turn them all on at the same time, but have done so.

That's good news.   I haven't had a problem yet but the I-Game just got moved into position and I don't want any issues.

Munch I have 5 Game Kings using the same plug. Two tables in the garage each have 10 machines, each table uses a common wall plug, never had a problem.

I just took a closer look at my machines.  The identification plate affixed to the side of the cabinet states

IGT IGames - 120V  6A  60Hz

WMS 550, Dotmamtion, IGT S2000 and S2000 Reel Touch - 120/240V  6/3A  50/60Hz

S+ manual says
power consumption
Average - Idle                               180Watts - 115VAC@60HZ   1.5AMPS
Average - Idle                               200Watts - 220VAC@50Hz      .9AMPS
Worst Case - Hopper On                 450Watts - 115VAC@60Hz    3.7AMPS
Worst Case - Hopper On                 500Watts - 220VAC@50Hz    2.3AMPS

Worst Case - Hopper On S+                 450Watts - 115VAC@60Hz    =  3.7AMPS

I think this is why I seen where IGT said that you should
not hook up more than 6 machines to one 15 Amp breaker.

6 machines x 3.7 Amps = 22.2Amps...that's too much for a 15 Amp breaker.
Of course, that's only when all the hoppers are running at the same time.

Also, 450Watts x 6 machines is a crazy 2,700 Watts!!!

Can someone explain to us why this is okay to run off of one single outlet??  :99-

Bunker   what is the worse thing that can happen, pop the circut breaker and you have to reset it !!  NO snow here I can get to my electrical panel very easy, matter of fact I just jump on my golf cart and dive to the other side of the house.

That's eye Popping!!! (I'd use a funny smiley face but I'm using this quick reply thing.)


-  I wonder if that's the same for an LCD monitor??     I bet that 6A is for the CRT.

 :72-
Buzz, I oughta go throw some golf balls at you.... :96-
Those I-Games take some juice...
I'd like to check how much my big LCD tv screen uses.

Im sure that is for 6A with the CRT since its printed on the plate with the serial number, manufacture date, etc.

I wonder if LEDs in the buttons make any difference?

If you want to know what a 15amp breaker can really handle they you want to talk to Wayne A69mopar !

I visited his Toronto home and he had more slots on one circuit than I could ever imagine.

In the many rows of many slots he would turn no more than 3 rows on at a time as they shared a breaker,.

I am not sure exactly how many he had on at one time but it was impressive.

Dont be fooled by nameplates!
120V * 6A = 720 Watts  WRONG!!!
There is no way in hell that machine is consuming 720 watts of power.
Get a neat little gizmo called a "Kill-A-Watt". a portable wattmeter.
Most machines running are in the neighborhood of 250 watts (or 2 amps)
Your coffee maker is around 700 watts (6 amps)
Vacuum cleaner is close to 1000 Watts or 12 amps...
The machines dont draw all that much power from the 120Volt AC mains...

Kirk

 :72- That must be a fun way to heat up your house in the winter....  :200-

Here is the Killawatt measuring the power used by a 17" 3902 I-Game with a CRT monitor....
What you see here is 140 watts idling....

How do you use those things Kirk?
I'm thinking of getting one... :129-

Hi Jay,
  I now have my other circuit installed, which allows all 35 machines to be on.  I may have had 20 reel slots on the same circuit in the past, but with the iGames on it, I only had 12 reels and 5 iGames.

Thanks,
Wayne

Bunker,

You gotta get one of those toys as they are fun to play with and absolutely simple to use. All you do is plug the device you want to measure into it, and then plug it into your ac outlet! That easy! It is very informative!!!

CH :95-

Here is some more info on power requirements, enjoy:


Ron (r273)

Wow! Those S6000's take a lot of power just sitting there! :52-
LEDs make a huge difference in S2000's... :89-
I better get some for my pinball machine... :79-

Bunker, of all the people on this site, you definitely don't need one of those! :37- :37-   It's WAAAY too easy for you to use. :200-

You can check the amperage of a home appliance by hooking a voltmeter (set to read amps, of course) in series with one half of the power line. I use one of those orange extension cords with the rubber female plugs on the end. I found that I can plug a device into them "backwards" so that only one male plug is inserted into the extension and the other male plug is exposed. The ground doesn't get connected, but who needs safety when you're playing mad scientist? :130- You then poke one pointy lead of the VOM into the empty female socket and connect the other side of the VOM with an alligator clamp lead to the exposed male tab of the device.  You do this BEFORE plugging in the extension cord, unless you like your hair crispy. :50- :50- :111- Then hit the power switch and take your readings.

You get a nice, clean Bunker-style Frankenstein setup. Watt measurements are frequency dependent, but it's not really an issue with the 60Hz flat B (or sharp B flat) that comes out of the wall, so you can just do the simple math conversion to get the watts.. :126-

I was actually an A student of mathematics...30 years ago.... :97-
But after 20 years of building tall high rises and long-azzed bridges - I've forgotten most of it.
I'll bet you I can't even complete a basic polynomial function/question anymore...
It's amazing how much the mind loses when you don't regularly apply it to anything in life anymore. :5-

Now, give me a curvy fairway and I'll tell ya where's the best, strategic place
to aim the golf ball at from way back on the Black Tee boxes...
But as far as math...my gosh -  Now I'm an A student of CRS... :208-

Random K+ alert. Everyone on this thread just got a +1 'cause I felt like it. :88-  :96- :96-
No, I don't want one in return. That would spoil the fun. :31-

But you can't tell me that a clean Radio Shack-type Mr. & Mrs. milk toast America measuring thingie would look better on your work bench than a Frankenstein Octopus of cables and technical gadgetry.. In fact, I'm rethinking my last post.. You should use an oscilloscope to measure the voltage instead of a VOM, but set it up just as I described, with lots of exposed 115V wires. :30- :25- :208- :208- :208-


<ADD> I think that I quoted you before you finished typing.. :72- :72- :72-

Well to add a little info to this thread, :103-  per UL and the NEC you have to add up all worst case loads and mark that on the name plate label. of course the worst case in a say typical S+ would be the hopper running, bill validate running, all light on, reels spinning and bell ringing. As we all know this can not happen  :208- :208- but per the code this is the way its done.
we can all thank UL and the NEC for a lot of confusions in our life's.

Mark

Yes, because "This Old House" may become "This Old Bonfire" if you don't follow the code. They are meant to prevent you from "Kevorkanizing" yourself.