New Life Games Tech Forums

 :30- I have a S+ that I want to run without a hopper. Just a key out for any cash out. I know this can be done but can't figure it out myself
Thanks
AKLARRY

The simplest way is to run the machine with a later SP like SP1271 (the exact chip will depend on the game type installed.) They allow you to set separate hopper, credit, jackpot, and dbv limits, so you can set the hopper limit to 0 and the credit limit to 9999 and the jackpot limit to whatever you want. All cashouts then become hand pays to be cleared with the key.

This topic has been covered many times. Just browse through the S+ board to find out more details. You should also read Rick's FAQ Files. It will give you a lot of information about your slot.


SF :31-

there is a company in NY that has a ticket printer that plugs right into place where the hopper would be and prints a ticket. you might want to consider that also.

Now this sounds like a very interesting idea.  A ticket printer in place of a hopper.  Do you have any other information on this??  Name of the company or something?

Thanks, Ron

i know that they are located in Long Island somewhere. It was called empire gaming solutions or something like that. But the had a direct hopper plug in solution for like 150.00 and the piece where the coin tray should be to allow the ticket to pass through. I have tried to find the website but no luck, just can't remember the site address. But they claimed it did not require a reconfiguration of the machine, just plug and play.

Hi

More info here - http://www.egsny.com/. I have not personally tried this so cant vouch for their system. - Its a nice idea but I dont think really relevant to home game rooms.
As far as I understand its a cash out system only - IE Ticket wont be acccepted for printed value in another machine.

StatFreaks suggestion probably the quickest to implement. Its also possible to electronically emulate the signals coming from the hopper - Working on this will keep you posted.

Ian

Indeed, that system is ticket-out only.  A neat idea, but a little spendy for the home user.

Also, for what it's worth, I remembered this post in the PE+ section (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=5890.msg57129#msg57129) where a NLG member tried putting that product in their PE+ and it blew up some components on the MPU board.

Some basics I have used in the past to create a "hopperless" machine for customers is to first determine the voltage that the hopper runs at. It could be 24 VDC or 120 VAC. Then get a relay rated at that voltage and connect it where the motor was connected. Next determine what kind of coin out sense is used and look at the schematic of where it interfaces with the main board. Usually one optoisolator sees a low (optics) or a high (switch) and changes state to indicate a coin has passed through the coin detect optic or switch. Next find a small 5VDC power supply and build a 555 timer circuit that turns on and pulses when the hopper relay you installed in place of the hopper motor closes it's contacts and turns on the 555 circuit. The 555 pulses the optic on the main board and fakes it into thinking it has a coin out. When the payout is done the hopper relay opens up and disables the 555 circuit from pulsing any more coin out signals.

One inventive guy did a tester for us for the S+ slot and took the bowl off of the hopper and screwed metal tabs to the pinwheel so when the pinwheel spun it would rotate these tabs through the coin out sensor faking a coin out signal to the main board.

Instead of a relay you can also use a H11AA1 AC input optoisolator to fire the 555 circuit.

When I get some time I will post the mod I just did on a Sigma slot machine to make it (push button) coin in and (fake hopper) coin out.

"Instead of a relay you can also use a H11AA1 AC input op-to isolator to fire the 555 circuit."

It would be neat if you could show us how this is made? :133-

Aklarry, look what you started? :5- :97- :97-  I gave you a K+ for getting the "kings of tinker" tinkering and then sitting back to watch the show. :244- :244-

Stat :31-

Give me some time and I'll post some schematics. Right now all of my notes are locked up in the shop and the owner messed up his knee on a slot lift (those metal edges are deadly when you bang your knee into one).

Not nearly as dangerous as my mother's wooden laundry cabinets.
A couple of times I was pulling clothes out of her dryer and banging
the back of my skull upon her bloody laundry cabinets
where she stores her towels and washing stuff...
When you do that, all you can do is grab the back of your head
with your two hands and cringe in pain...LOL

The hopper can be emulated by a 555 and you do not need to worry about 120VAC to activate it.
There is a low voltage on signal
It turns on the Solid state relay mounted near the hopper plug that is in the machine.

 :30- Thanks for all the helpful feedback but one of the first replies was to check the FAQ which I should have done first. I just set the hopper out to 0 and it worked like a champ.
Again thanks for the help and glad I could get everyone talking
AKLarry

You post these 2 mods and I will give you positive Karma for a week.. 2 weeks with pictures.. 3 weeks with schematics.. 4 weeks if you come over and do mine FOR me.. 5 weeks if you PM me the info & don't share it with anyone else for a month so I can build it BEFORE Bunker does !   :79-

Yes, on the newer machines where a SSR is used to run the hopper motor you can replace the SSR with a optoisolator that turns on a 555 timer but the 555 circuit should use the machine's 5V supply and stay on then be triggered by the opto that is connected where the SSR was. Otherwise, if the 555 is turned off you will get hopper CO errors. A hopper optic switch is normally closed (at ground level) if you turn off the 555 it floats and can't keep the optic circuit in the normally closed position. Visualize a light beam hitting it's receiver, then blocking that beam means a coin has exited.