New Life Games Tech Forums

Trying to help out a friend, 1992 S+ no dbv, here is his decription of the problem...

"Thanks for helping. 61 appears in the window. Per the manual, it says to hold down the reset button, then the error code does not change to 61-1. I bought the machine not working. When transported it, all the tokens fell out of the hopper. With needle nose pliers, tried to remove them. Touched something, and it tripped my breaker in that room, and a big spark from the transformer area. Changed a blown fuse, and it powered up. Two pinball guys said they could fix it. They took $160, plus a $20 battery and did not fix it. Also, the display is flickering, and when you reset, 5555 apears in the window"

I think he is having power supply problems?  The 5555 has me stumped?  :103-
Suggestions?

I'm sure a wayward coin fried his power supply. Who removes coins with the power plugged in?

With the flickering of the display I would think that it is the CPU board causing the problem.

I'll check and see which fuse blew and had to be replaced.  Could the bad power supply be causing the MPU board to set the flickering 5555?

People who like the....   :98- :98- :98- :98- :98-



I would guess that some components on the MPU, and possibly the motherboard, got fried.  You could try a known working MPU in there to see if that resolves the problem, although you're risking frying the known good board if something is really askew in the machine.

 :118-  AAAAAhhhhhhh...The Brown Smell   :23-

hmmm.. now think bad out it all brown smells are pretty bad  :97-

I have had the flickering and it turned out to be a bad connection on one of the legs of the BASE chip but I have never seen that 5555 code  :103-

Mabey it's the 555 timer chip... :25- :30- :97- :97- :97-  (sorry, I HAD to)  :30-

I've seen coins piled up to 6 inches deep in an S+...nothing even happened.
I turned the power off, removed the plug from the WALL outlet
and removed all the coins into a tray.
Turned out the divertor solenoid was out of order due to a broken wire.
All the coins went straight to the hopper and
overflowed like there was no tomorrow.

It's important to determine exactly which fuse had blown...
that would send someone like me straight to the cause.

As for the "5's" in the display...sounds a lot like somebody
was messing around with the chips.
Betcha it's a folded under eprom leg - which are hard to see.

Why anyone would want to go picking metal coins out of a hot machine
with a pair of pliers is way beyond stupidity...it's more like
a bad affliction of suicidal tendencies... :97-

I'd presume that the flickering 5s in the display are just a symptom of the displays getting power that they shouldn't be getting.   :50- :50- :50-

Hello, I am the genius that caused all this. Any realistic options, for someone who knows nothing, or dump it and buy a working one? I am almost $400 into it now, so another couple hundred is ok. I just want to play. Love the comments, they are half true!

Are there any members nearby you that might have spare MPU and
display, power supply and chips to try some
swapping out procedures to pinpoint the problem?
I'd try swapping the power supply first...
if that's it then all you need is a power supply.
If not, then swap a motherboard and see if that's the problem...
if that's it, then all you need is a motherboard...
Are you seeing what I'm trying to say?
We need to find out what blew.

The pinball guys couldn't fix it because they
didn't have slot machine parts...they only have pinball parts.
Now , why you'd get pinball guys to try and
fix your slot machine is beyond my thinking.
I would never call a Maytag dishwasher repairman to
see if they could come over and service my furnace? :129-  

Hey     polybius :  Post some of the pics you took.. so these guys can confirm the model.
I'm still a rookie here, but I went over to see him last week.  His machine is what I believe to be a cruise ship model? S+
Its more narrow than a standard S+, but the board mounts to the inside of the left wall.  It doesn't have a regular S+ power supply, the large transformer is mounted
in the center rear, and is openly exposed. There is a red box with 2 or 3 molex plugs marked 24 volt in the rear center right.
Reels look standard, as does coin mech etc.  Is this an S+ or an S??  He does have a working S+ sitting right next to the broken one.  They both appear to have
10 Mhz boards.  I was going to try swapping boards, but I didn't realize the depth of the aluminum back plate was different.  I didn't have time to do the switch that day, due to other
concerns.  But I will be more than happy to help him out in whatever way I can or you guys suggest.  Reels are firm when powered up, but it will not cycle, it just sits there flickereing the LED displays.  So much for me being the Hero that day  :97-

Well, one thing for sure...he has power...
Can you perform a clear for him?
Maybe put in a known good set of SP and SS chips to see if the display works?
Maybe bring a matching display board as well?
To switch MPU's in the different sized tray - all is needed is a good phillips screwdriver.
Doesn't take long.
I'd try to do a clear chip procedure first to see if that fixes the problem.

Yep, I have a clear chip we can use...let me know when you want to give it a shot polybius  :50-   :50-

I have to figure out how to make my pics smaller, then I will post. I am doing nothing after 2pm today. I hate for you to go through all this trouble for me. I just do not know exactly what to buy to try it. I think I might try switching motherboards. If I smoke the good one, does that tell me anything?

I'm thinking a clear procedure will help you at least see if the 5555's go away.
We don't know what the pinball guys did.
I hope they didn't accidentally convert the power supply into a 220volt unit!
Did they move any power supply wires around?

An easy way to post pictures without having to resize them yourself is to go to http://www.tinypic.com/ (http://www.tinypic.com/).  Click the "browse" button to find a picture on your hard drive, from the "resize" drop-down box select either the 15" Screen or 17" Screen selections, then press the big green "Upload Now" button.

On the resulting screen, copy the "IMG Code for Forums & Message Boards" and paste it into a post here.  Done.


As far as getting your machine up and running, don't worry -- we should be able to help you.  I think worst case if you replace the MPU board and the Motherboard your problems will be solved, but we can try just replacing the MPU board first.

I presume you've learned a valuable lesson here, and that is to not work on your machine with it plugged in!  Make sure the machine is off when removing or inserting circuit boards, and make sure the machine is unplugged if you're going to be poking around near the power supply.

knagl

Nice link for the pic resizing.

I will pass that along to some people that are a little computer photo challenged.

Lets see if I made the pic smaller

(http://i44.tinypic.com/25ho7sz.jpg) (http://i44.tinypic.com/25ho7sz.jpg)



Edited to reposition picture - KN

(http://i41.tinypic.com/2hxlrg9.jpg) (http://i41.tinypic.com/2hxlrg9.jpg)

Ok, not sure how to put a lot on one post, but I have detailed photos. Which ones will be most helpful?




Edited to reposition picture - KN

(http://i39.tinypic.com/1z228ti.jpg)

Hmm...your power switch is on...the 3 black vertical fuses on the power supply - are they good?
Also, you're missing the ground wire on the hopper beau plug.

(http://i44.tinypic.com/1takp5.jpg)

Is this any better?

the machine you have is a standard pre bill acceptor S+.  I would try and clear the machine before you try anything else. you won't need a set chip because you don't have a bill acceptor, so you really can't mess up anything else by trying.  Can you get the machine into the test mode ?? (door open, press white test button) You have a late version S+ board, you can tell by the diodes, yours are going east and west, the earlier version goes north and south.  Also make sure all the fuses are good!

Jim
 

Ok, I swapped boards. The defective DD, showed a game mismatch code. The good machine did the same, so when I switched them back to the right machine, the good machines bill acceptor quit working.  :37-

The good machine's bill acceptor needs the proper SET chip to "enable" the bill acceptor.
No big deal there. If you don't have one,  place an ad in the Classifieds"
section of NLG and hopefully a vendor will contact ya!

The defective Double Diamond machine -
You said it showed a "Game Mismatch" code.
Exactly what number was displayed?
Put it back in and get that number to pop back up again.
Doesn't hurt it...I want the exact numbers on your display.

I am going over to his house when he calls me to  use my clear chip on his board, and use a set chip to reset his bill validator.  I have a spare SP1271 I can loan him
if that will help fix things up,  Which set chip will i need for that in case I need it for his good machine??  :99-

Anything else you guys can tell us to try will be appreciated...

SET088,
SET089,
SET090,
SET091,
SET101,
SET102,
SET116, or
SET121
is required
to configure options
for this SP1271 chip.
Good Luck!

You can turn the bill validator on and set denomination ONLY... with a set 15. Not the correct chip but will work for those 2 items. If thats all you have handy.

 :131-  :131-  :131-  Thanks for the help guys, I dug through my goodies, and I do have a Set90 for the SP1271  :89-
If nothing else, I can get his other machine back up and running correctly....now as to the problem child  :190-

Spectacular.  K+ to you.  Always great to see members going out of their way to help other members here.

I put the good board in the DD...
When power up, code 65-2...Pressed reset button for 3 seconds...Manual says, "error code clears from display-close door." It did not clear, closed door, same code 65-2 flashing fast. Candle is fast flash lower, medium flash top. Turned reset key, Winner paid- 0006... Credits- 5535...Coins Played- alternates 0 and 1 still flashing fast. Spin reels button lit, 25cent denomination light blinking fast.
Pulled handle, and Winner paid- 50... Credits- blank... Coins Played- 4, flashing fast.   Pulled handle again. Winner Paid- 49... Credits blank... Coins played- 4

Put the correct board back in machine. Winner Paid- 61... Credits- blank... Coins Paid- blank. Candles the same as above. I let it set turned on, and noticed intermitant digit section flashes.

This is the most complete description I can give. If there are any specific things, please advise. Thanks guys.

Magicslots here at his house.  Trying to reset his dbv on his 3cm Blackjack.  SP709, and SS3670, neither my set026 or my set 90 will work with SP???
Did I miss something? 

 :172-

 :172-   I messed the first one up,    forgot to attach PSR

Finally got the Blackjack S+ up and running again!  :25- I loaned him a SP1271, because the SP709 wouldn't work with either of my set chips.
Did a ram clear on it, and got the WBA11 working normal again, so at least he has one good machine to play.   :5-

Now for the problem child...Its an SP731, i cant recall the SS # ...Anyway, performed a Ram clear on this machine as well, it ran through the count-up procedure
like it should, but the led displays are still flickering heavily  :37- 

When powered back up it goes to a 61, that will not clear, still flickering. There is no response from the self-test button  :37-
Reels are powered up, all lights etc still  working, just the remaining flickering of the led display.  I took a voltage reading from the back of the denom light, this should be around 6 volts?
I got a reading of 10.4vdc.

Power supply problems???
Suggestions??   :103-   :99-

You could try pulling the power supply from the working machine and installing it in the problem machine and see if the problems persist or are resolved.  They're not too difficult to remove from the machines.

If the problems persist, you'll likely want to try a known good MPU board and a known good motherboard.  If the flickering continues, try a known good LED display panel.  There's really no telling what got zapped with voltage it shouldn't have after the initial blast.

1) you don't have the same machine power supply in your Blackjack  as you have in the Double Diamond, so you can"t swap it.
2) you can put the Blackjack chips in the DD board and see if you can get the program to load,(put this board in the Blackjack machine)  don't even worry about the bill acceptor at this time. if the program loads and displays don't flicker then you have determined that the board is good.
3) I don't think it is the power supply, all that power supply does is convert the incoming 120 vac to the lower levels of ac needed for the game,e.g. 6.3vac to run all the lamps (denomination lamp), etc.

I think that you probably blew the E-Squared eeprom on the motherboard, usually when you can't clear a 61 code or a ram clear doesn't work then its usually bad.


Jim

Ok, I pulled the transformer, EMI filter, and the little red box. (Looks like some kind of disribution block). The trx is a Basler Electric p/n BE 23035 001. I checked their website, and they do not sell onsies and twosies to the public. I could not find one on the internet to get the specs off, to cross reference it to Advance, or Acme. Here is the question, is what I need, contained in the power supply that I see readily available? My trx, etc, is exposed, not enclosed in a box. Thanks.

hopefully you only removed the four screws and the two nuts  that hold the entire platform in the machine.  for your purpose you can actually test it out of the cabinet. Why are you wanting to order something if you don't know if it is bad??  Unfortunately  we are dealing with a force we cannot see,therefore we need help. that's why when you are working with a electronic device you need a meter, to test voltages and check continuity. then you can rule out certain items as being you problem.  If you would go to page 74 in the S+ repair manual in the submit a file section you will see the power input to the transformer and its outputs. All this can be tested with a meter, set to measure ac voltages. the transformer output is  24 vac and 8vac and 7vac.  these are sent to the motherboard via the plug that causes all the problems ( the one that gets brown and causes the intermittent connections). from there they go into the main logic board and are converted to the d.c. voltages that are required to run the game. If your denomination lamp is on then the transformer is indeed working and providing 7 vac  to the lamp. yes you have to measure this voltage on the ac range not the dc range or you will get a wrong voltage. I would try this first before placing a order for any parts.  the little red box is actually a Solid State Relay (SSR), it turns on the hopper when its told to!  All the power supplies are located on the board.

Jim

I replaced the power supply, and the DD is doing the same thing. Flickering 61. Anyone want to sell a complete board, with the correct chips installed? Thanks.