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I am Rick... just bought a IGT Triple Bonanza slot machine cheap... it quit working for the owner and she didnt want to pay a tech 100+ dollars to fix it.

It had a code 12... battery low. I got a battery today and replaced it. Now, a code 61.... I went thru the steps and got the 61-1, closed the door... turned the reset.... nothing. Did it twice with no fix... now it wont go to 61-1. I assume I need to clear the ram. This is where I get lost... what ram chip? How do I know which to get?

In the meantime, would you all suggest cleaning up the contacts all thru it, since I dont know the machines history?

Side note.. I learned so much on here today looking for answers, my brain is leaking. Thank you all for what I already learned. Great site.

Rick

Did you turn the reset key or turn and hold the reset key? You have to hold it until it beeps (dings, farts, belches...). :200- :208-

I am guessing here as it's been ages since I have worked on a S+ but you will need a SET chip since you lost all the settings when you changed the battery.    However you also need to be sure the door is being seen as shut.   The problem is you do not know the history of the machine as when it was last workging.  

This being said I would check all connections and be sure that the door optics are there and aligned up.   Same goes for the jackpot reset key contact, you need to be sure this is working as well to the backplane.  The machine shoudl resond when turned.  

Sounds like the board is working and is waiting for either of the above.  

ok... like I said, it went to 61-1 twice and did make sounds..... I will retry again after double checking the door.

I was told it just stopped working. It was bought by a lady for her mother who is crippled up... she loved the slots and would sit and play most of the day. I got it for $200, the tech guy at the slot repair place offered $150 and I outbid him... mostly doing a favor for this lady while wanting to learn how to fix a slot machine.... besides, my wife loves slots so I get brownie points.

I will report back....

ok.. the candle is flashing the lower light fast.... which mean the door is open. The optics are there, not sure how to test them other than replacing them :)

The 61 still wont change to 61-1... is this due to the door open error?

Most likely... First step: use a digital camera to look at the emitter (on the door), you should see it blinking. It's infrared, so you can't see it with your eyes.

If it's blinking, you can peek in through the reel glass to see if they line up properly (emitter and receiver). They're mounted on slotted plastic so they can be adjusted.

You'll also need to check the belly door (bottom one) for a switch, and for another switch for the door where the cash can goes. Shorting the wires for the belly and cash door switches will signal door closed for both of these.

ok... the main door emitter glows in the digital camera. I am not positive they are lining up, so I pulled the receiver and lined it up with the emitter... the light kept flashing.

The switch on the cash box door looks to already be shorted.... wires are green and red.

There is no switch on the belly door and nothing I see that has been shorted.

I am putting pics up next.

ok, here is the machine.... and a picture of the door switch for the money box.... and a shot of the belly door open, where I see no switch (next reply)

belly door and inside of main door, lower half.

Rich  I hope you and Brichter don't short out the  wires going to the cash can switch, but it's OK to connect them together. lol   I'm going to put a link for you to read, I think this thread will help you also might I suggest read anything Jim post about S+s you wont go wrong
 

 
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1   **Reel Slots** Gaming Machines / IGT S and S-plus Reel Games. / Re: IGT S+ - 6AMP FUSE BLOWN - NOW NO GAME? 
 
 
 I guess I messed this one all up no link  The post was April 1 this year

Where's the wires that went to the switch in the #2 picture? They should be connected together (shorting the switch... :96-)...

Is it just me? Picture IMG_3520 shows a 1 in the coin in and no numbers in the credit or winner paid windows, and the DBV bezel appears to be lit (although the insert coin light is not), and the reels have spun to the 0,0,0 home position. Have you tried dropping a coin into the machine?

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=7004.msg62550#msg62550 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=7004.msg62550#msg62550)     


I knew if I messed around long enough I'd com up with something!! :3- :3-

Bill     My deff. of a short is, you will see sparks and blow fuses

I far as I can remember that since you changed the batt the bill validator needs to be set again to enable.  This can only be done with a Set Chip.

So you will only get the coins to work.

Make sure the sample coin in the CC matches the coins you are using.

I could be wrong but I think there are two door swiches, one optic and one a cherry switch.

So if you manually line up the optics but do not close the other swtich it will not see the door closed.

When I drop a coin in, it goes straight to the tray. The sample coin is the same as the coin I am dropping in, but I will double check that. I got a can of tokens with this machine and that is what I am using.

I was told up front that there is something wrong with the dollar bill validator, for our use I dont care if it works or not, as long as it doesnt keep the machine from working.

Thanks for the responses.

Since it seems like you don't have a clear chip or SET chip on hand -
Can you try Statfreak's suggestion in the link on Buzz's post?

What Stat said was to take out the MPU board (With POWER OFF!!!),
remove the CMOS chip and ground the legs on something metal.
Be careful not to bend the legs and make sure the notch at the end of the
chip goes back in the same direction when you put it back in the chip socket.

Grounding out the legs on the CMOS eprom chip will sometimes act like a clear chip.

Re-install the MPU board and tray into the machine and power it on.
You should get a [61].
Press the test button for a couple of secs will get you a [61-1].
Close the door and turn the reset key may get you to "boot up" the MPU
and the reels will do their "maiden spin".
Wait a couple of seconds and then drop a couple of coins and report back your results!  :89-
Remember, the candle will continue to flash until you complete one full game.

ok.. I am going to do this after I take a nice ride on the Harley today.... yes, it clears the head. I will report my findings later today.

Thank you all, I have learned lots so far.

Just note when he changed the batt it cleared the NVRAM, I don't see the need to mess with the NVRAM chips. The issue appears to be a door clousre issue.  If the game is indeed ready to take coins put a quater in the coin comparitor and feed the machine quaters.  If the tokens are not exactly the same mint they will not work even if they are the same size.

There was no game change or chip change, he will need the SET chip to enable the BV if he wants to get that going.  Otherwise you can get it to take coins just no bills. 

   

both the red and green wires are hooked together in that spade connector, thus "shorting" them... I assume. Nothing was hooked to the switch and those wires are the only ones near the door switch.

 :103-  I was referring to picture 3520. I think that you might be looking at picture 3517 ? :128-

sorry statfreak...... I think I took the picture after playing with the reset key.... I am going to try the rest of the suggestions shortly, my ride is done.

OK... I tried this, step by step. Then I powered it up.... code 61 shows up... I push test for a few seconds and it goes to 61-1 and the candle quits flashing ... I close the door tightly and reset.... 61 comes back and nothing from the machine itself, no noise and no movement of the reels. I put a quarter in the coin viewer (?) and drop a quarter in and it drops straight thru.

I am gonna unplug it/replug it in and go thru the steps again..... this is almost fun :/

If you're stuck in a 61 loop, you more than likely need a clear chip.  You are doing the correct procedure, which is once you have the 61, press and hold the small white self-test button until you hear a ding and get a 61-1.  After that, close the door, and turn and release the jackpot reset key.

If that is just bringing you back to a 61 message, then you're in a loop and need to clear.  You can purchase a clear chip from one of the vendors on the site (like Jim at Blueridge (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=pm;sa=send;u=76)) by contacting them directly, or by placing a WTB (Want To Buy) ad in the classifieds section of the board (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=5.0).  While you're buying a clear chip, you should at the same time obtain a SET chip.  Once we get your machine working, a SET chip will enable the bill validator and likely get that to work as well.  The price for the pair of chips shouldn't be more than $25.00.

Don't get discouraged -- we'll help you get your machine up and running, and once it is it'll run for a long time -- the S+ machines are tanks.


To everyone else: Are there any NLG members in Phoenix where Rick is located to perhaps lend a clear chip and help him in person?

Thanks dude... I actually have a clear and set chip on the way, as of this afternoon.

I really dont get discouraged, I have grown patience with age.... I do realize I am stuck at a point that I cant procede without the chips you mentioned. After spending hours reading on this site, I have no doubt we will fix it and with the knowledge I am gaining, I will be helpful to someone someday.

The lady I got it from saw me today... she didnt own it, it was her coworkers.... she said they used the token I have in it all the time, so I assume they should work ok. She was impressed I got as far as I did, which opened me up to praising you all.

I dont know these machines much, but I know Harleys inside out... so if anyone here needs help with one, just ask.

You are doing great, and I am sure that you will get it up and running. As has been said, those S+'s are great machines and are like tanks! Thanks for your great positive attitude!! It is appreciated by all, you will soon be a slot addict, that is uless you already are? :97- :97- :97-

K+ (Karma+) to you for the fun of it and your great posts. :244- :244- :244- (Also to the helpers here in this post!)

CaptainHappy :95-
 :nlg- ADMIN

I am enjoying this.... it is great therapy, not as good as the Harley, but close :)

While I wait on the chips to come in, I am going to start a thorough cleaning... inside and out... all contacts, etc. The main door hindge seems weak, the door sags about 1/4 inch or more when opened... hoping to tighten it up. Also, I was snooping around for another slot machine, that needs work... so maybe I have the illness afterall?

If you check out Ricks FAQ in the middle of the home page.

There are instructions on how to do a game change.

You can change the theme of your slot to any one of the 200 or so other themes available.

There are also custom themes (think Harley Davidson) that can be done up for your slot.

ya.... I thought of that too.... once I get this up and running I may just do that, or get another broken one and set it up for a change of game.

I read thru the faqs, but honestly they didnt mean much at the time... my first day here. I will have to reread them, now that I know a little more.

I'm a little more OCD than most here, but I actually take all the buttons off the machines when I get them and wash them.  I literally remove every button assembly from the door, then take apart each button down to its individual plastic parts and springs and whatnot, and give them a bath in the sink with some liquid dish detergent, then set them on a towel to dry before reassembling them and putting them back in the door.  It's the best way I've found to remove the years worth of spilled drinks, nicotine, and other random gunk that is in them.  Just be careful washing the legend inserts -- don't use anything abrasive on the front of or you can lose the writing on them.

got it... knowing me, I usually start off cleaning then see what I can take apart etc.... which has gotten me in trouble before.

The best way to learn what makes a slot tick is to take it apart -
the hard part is getting it back together... :96-

I am working on it as we speak.... I came in to get my camera, found some interesting things.... I see where a plug has a home made jumper in it, looks like a paperclip jumping across 2 contacts. Lots of dirt/dust in this machine, but not too bad. I dont know how long it was in this persons house or what all they had done to it while they had it.

More later.

Did McGuyver own the machine before you?  :72-

hahaha... I just asked the neighbor if she knows where it came from. She said it was bought from IGT here in Phoenix, I guess they have some outlet (?) here? It was owned for about 4-5 years, and hasnt worked for the last year. I am putting some pics up shortly.

 :103- :103- :103- :103-


I wanna go to the IGT outlet store!   :97- :97- :72- :72- :200- :200-


But seriously, IGT doesn't sell to individuals -- in fact, as best as I can tell, they don't like the idea of individuals owning their old slots.  Arizona is a legal state for slot machines, so more than likely your neighbor bought it from a company in Phoenix that buys and sells machines.  Many places buy truckloads of old slots, refurb them, and turn around and sell them to the retail market.  I'm guessing that she bought it from a company like that, which may have had a warehouse full of machines and she thought it to be an 'IGT outlet".

you could be right.... I have no way to know, but now I know it wasnt an IGT "store". Either way, its mine now :)

I DO wanna go to an IGT outlet store too!! :72-

Imagine going and pick up a brand new AVP or brand new parts for any platform?
Now that would be cool! :184- :183- Not 20 yr old stuff... :30- :25- :30-

I think that IGT used to sell to the home market, at one time. then they stopped doing it. (The used machines that is).

From their website FAQ:

Q: Does IGT sell used machines to individuals for home use?
    A: No, IGT no longer sells used machines.  However, there are a number of used-machine stores in Las Vegas and Reno.

I wonder if my camera is about to go.... crappy pics.

1. Here is the motherboard.... with the new battery on it.

2. Also the counters

1. this pic shows where the connector has the jumper in it..... paperclip, I think. Next reply will have a cable I found that may fit into this connector (?)

2. Motherboard plug-in area..... I see nothing wrong here except some dust.

1. This cable was laying in the bottom floor of the machine, to the left of the coin hopper.... might this be for the cash door switch? Or the missing belly door switch?

2. See the black connector to the left the door hinge? No clue where it went. Also, see the broken cable I am holding, this must be why the door opens too far and sags so much.

1. Optical door switch (receiver)

2. Coin validator with token in it that has been used for years by the previous owner.

1. Inside rear of door, bottom half.

2. Closer shot of the mystery connector

So sorry for the crappy focus, not sure whats wrong.

1. Wires I thought were "shorted", for the cash door switch..... red and green running into one spade connector, with a splice hooked to the red wire.

2. clear shot of the lower cabinet

Thats all I got for now.... see anything wierd? Need a different or clearer shot? Want a beer?

Let me know.

Rick

Pic one: Cable on floor...no idea=not needed.

Pic two: Wire cable from reel tray to door...it's busted!
Get a new one by placing an ad in the "Classifieds" section of NLG.
I'm sure a vendor will spot your need and be glad to sell you one!

Pic three: Nice!

Pic four: Make sure the coin that is inserted behind the sliding catch mechanism
is the exact same type f coins that you're playing with!
Bad example>>> If a nickel is in there - quarters won't work!!!

Pic six: That black 5-pin molex ("mystery") connector is for the backlighting
for multi-lined shadow box lighting for 3,5,or 9 line games.
I wouldn't worry about it if you only have a single Payline game.

Pic seven: The red and green wires are fine spliced together there.
As long as the door receiver optic is working correctly.
You can tell if the optic is working by observing the number change
in the "Coins Played" window on your display when you open/close the main door.

Pic eight: Looks fine except something spilled onto the floor...
There's some yellowish-looking stain there.
As far as beer- lol   I gave that up years ago....but thank you very much anyways! LOL
Also,
There's no MPU board in the back tray there.
 Did you remove it?

door cables.... after inspecting the machine this morning, I am going to replace ALL of the door cables. Every last one has something wrong with it, conditions from fair to bad.... but I am going to use a supplier on your site. I will try to explain my need in the classifieds.

I retried the "putting the cmos chip on a conductive surface" thing... turned it on.... 61 came up... pressed the test button for a few secs and let go... it dinged and went to 61-1... closed the door tight and locked it.... turned the reset key once.... back to 61... but at the same time, a zero flashed in the far right window (credits?). Mean anything?

It went back to [61]? Hmm...sounds like you need to get a CLEAR chip
because that error code can be very persistent if it's not cleared correctly.
The rubbing-the-legs-on-the-butter-knife-trick doesn't always work.
A set of SET & CLEAR chips are not too costly.
Many of our highly regarded NLG vendors will be able to supply ya with them!  :89-
What are the numbers on the labels of your SS and SP chips?
I may be able to get the good fairy to send you some mail!

 
 
 
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Kevin


    Re: New IGT slot owner with questions- imagine that
« Reply #22 on: April 25, 2010, 06:24:57 PM »  

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you're stuck in a 61 loop, you more than likely need a clear chip.  You are doing the correct procedure, which is once you have the 61, press and hold the small white self-test button until you hear a ding and get a 61-1.  After that, close the door, and turn and release the jackpot reset key.

If that is just bringing you back to a 61 message, then you're in a loop and need to clear.  You can purchase a clear chip from one of the vendors on the site (like Jim at Blueridge) by contacting them directly, or by placing a WTB (Want To Buy) ad in the classifieds section of the board.  While you're buying a clear chip, you should at the same time obtain a SET chip.  Once we get your machine working, a SET chip will enable the bill validator and likely get that to work as well.  The price for the pair of chips shouldn't be more than $25.00.

Don't get discouraged -- we'll help you get your machine up and running, and once it is it'll run for a long time -- the S+ machines are tanks.


To everyone else: Are there any NLG members in Phoenix where Rick is located to perhaps lend a clear chip and help him in person?
 
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I have them on the way.. is why I am on hold and cleaning the machine while I wait....

A couple of points of information for you:

- What you called the "motherboard" in picture 3521 is actually called the MPU board.  In your case, you have a 10mhz MPU board (the small blue volume dial on the top of the board is the giveaway).  The 10mhz board is good, and actually preferred for home use as the newer, 16mhz boards tend to have static in the audio -- you wouldn't hear it in a casino, but you will in a quiet home.

- The motherboard of the machine (sometimes called the "backplane" on other machines) is what you took a picture of in image 3524.  The MPU board (removable) plugs into the motherboard (fixed in the machine).


- The mystery gray wire/black harness connector near the door hinge is, as Bunker said, for the (optional) stepper light box -- it's perfectly normal for nothing to be plugged in there.


- What you pictured in 3523 concerns me a little (your "paper clip" connector).  If you can, please trace the wires of both the sending and receiving door optic to ensure that they are connected all the way back into wire harnesses and into the motherboard.  The wires you have pictured could be door sensors.  If someone previously bypassed the door optics by shorting the wires together (with a paperclip, for example), the game would have worked for them, but would not get past a 61 game change error (which can also happen after a battery change).  We need to make sure that your optics are connected 100%.

It's possible, though, that the connector in question is for a drop door or other sensor not needed.


All: My memory is fuzzy on this -- is it possible to perform the optics test with the machine stuck on a 61 error?  I'd like to prove that that optics are in fact completely plugged in and functioning correctly.

I did the thing looking at the sending optic (on the door) with a digital camera and it glowed.... I will look into those wires after Beck is off the air, while enjoying a cold beer. Its getting hot down here in AZ now.

Rick

Yep, I read that -- that proves that the sending optic is connected (good!), but unfortunately you can't test the receiver optic like that.  Since we don't know the history of what's been tinkered with in your machine, it's a possibility that someone did jumper the wires that lead to the receiver optic to try and bypass the door optics (and allow play with the door open).  There is a test in the machine that will show whether or not the optics are functioning correctly, but I don't know for sure if that'll work when you're stuck in a 61 code.

Someone here should have that answer for you soon -- in the mean time, enjoy your beer.   :222- :222- :151- :151-

when I turn the rest key to start a self test.... the first thing it does is flash a 1 and 0 (zero) in the far right display.... I understand that is saying the door is closed.... correct?

Well... I'm not in front of my machine at the moment and it's been ages since I've done the door test, but I do know that when the door test is active and the door is closed, the display is supposed to rapidly flicker between 1 and 0, and then that should stop when the door is open.

Does the state change when you open the door, or does the number continue to alternate rapidly between 1 and 0?


What SP chip is in your machine?  (If you don't know off hand, with the machine powered off, remove the MPU board and look at the label on the chips.)

here we go.....

Game prom:
S-Plus Game
SP872 TYO/1/45
7-22-98 (1-512) RS
IGT L97-0976

S-Plus Reel
GK SS6242
1/8/97 (1-64)
IGT L95-0556

CMOS
KM 6264BL-10
246Y Korea

 :172-

Yes I did.... thanks sir.

OK.... got the "clear" and "set" chips today in the mail.... ran thru the "clear" instructions then the "set" ones.... "Set" didnt seem to work for me, so I put the game chip back in, went thru a few errors and there it is..... working great!

I see there are a few problems I can work on as I go.... the arm isnt working to spin the reels, I will check the wiring etc. The bill validator isnt working, I was told it hasnt worked since the last owner owned it. No worries on either account for now, it takes the tokens and works fine.... my biggest win so far is only 60 coins, but at least it shows the hopper and coin chute is working!

So in the end, I have a total of $227 invested in this machine... not bad if I quit messing with it now. I know I wont, but will let the wife and others play it before I dig into it again. My grandkids are dying to see what it does... hahaha.

Again, thanks to all of you for the help. Now I will need to find another one so we have a variety of games :)

Your SP872 needs a SET026 chip to enable the bill acceptor.
Your SET chip may be the wrong one.
I'd throw it into a GQ-4X programmer/reader and find out what it is... :79-

ok... what I got is Set-90.... I will need to get the Set-026.

I think I have to clean these tokens too.. my hands are filthy now from playing :)

Thanks....

You could also upgrade your SP chip to a newer one that the SET90 would work on -- SP1160 or SP1306 would be good ones that would work with your game and a SET90 will work with it.  Food for thought.   :71-

With the bill validator, we could use the machine as a bank... put in a dollar and get 100 credits/tokens... right?

Currently, I can play with one or two tokens.... it will not take a third token.... is this something adjustable to let you put in as many tokens as you want? I have not tried adjusting any of the game settings yet.

Yes, if your SP chip supports $0.01 denomination (which the SP872 does), then yes you could set it so you get 100 credits for $1.

You have a 2-coin game (per the paytable on the glass, and as set in the SS chip specific to your game) so the maximum bet you can place is two coins.  It's normal behavior for your machine to reject the third (or more) coin, as the most you can bet is two at a time.  There is an option called "Montana Credits" which would let you put in additional coins, and those extra coins (beyond the first two) would go to the credit meter.  Your SP chip does not support it -- you'd need to get a SP1137, which uses a SET86 to enable the validator.  Then you could have the validator working, $0.01 denomination (so you'd get 100 credits for $1), and Montana Credits where you can feed unlimited coins in.

By the way...
 :105-
...on getting your machine working!   :3- :3- :3-

My thanks to you all for getting this working.... I am still excited. Wife isnt home yet, she will probly be on it all nite.

I am a genius.... after trying to figure out how to make this not pay out each time and give me credits, I notice this note on the glass... to use credits, push the credit button .... well duh!! So now I built up a few hundred credits and am forgoing feeding it each time. I did find out the hopper is jamming (error 3100).... took it out and unjammed it once, took it out and cleaned dustballs out of it.... and the last time I just opened the door and banged it once, which made it work fine. I will probly take it apart and clean its parts good. I think I unjammed years of crud from it.

I have an SP1160 if you need it. You know where to find me. :88-

Tell ya what.... I am in the midst of restarting my small business... I print custom stuff like cups, mousepads, can covers, etc.... wanna barter?

Well, we put the machine thru the ringer tonite.... my son and his kids were over, and those kids have been waiting to play "gramps' toy"... and play they did. I dont know if its legal or moral, but who cares... they had a blast. I had it on credits, but they liked feeding the coins.

After they left, I watched my wife play it... man, she likes to win! I may have to but a better odds chip in it... hahahaha

From what I've seen, it's probably good for kids to play slot machines at home. After playing long enough, they learn firsthand that it's impossible to beat them. Having open access to them also removes any mystique or allure.

Look, the kids won't get a chance to play them until they are 21 so having them play them now might be their only chance to do so. We have a party and cookout every year on our deck and I put one of the machines up on the deck for all to play. One lady accused me of "...........corrupting her child's morals". I didn't care. I said "It's not real money anyway so there is no gambling involved" But she over reacted. The machine got a lot of play and all were happy. Another guest said "If I can't play with real money, it ain't worth it". Oh well, can't please everyone.

ya, I dont care what people think... my son and his wife played last nite and couldnt win for trying. I went to the garage this morning for a smoke and hit the button a few times and got 900 credits in one shot.... I just had to take a phone pic of it and send it to them... they werent impressed.

I had to laugh.  I bet they worked hard for you to win the 900 credits.   :97-  That's just how they work.  You fixed it so it likes you :103- :97- :97-
 

Who cares if it's moral or legal.  Did they have fun?  That's what matters, at least IMHO
 

I been reading this thread as I have had time :71- and not once has anyone warned you of what I am going to tell you. :47-   :25-  Do not, I repeat, do not :60- leave this machine in a dark room and left alone.  These things are like bunnies and multiply very quickly. :89- :89-  My house is overrun with them now.  We started with 4 machines February 2009 and now we are up to 30 at last count.  I actually need to update my ManCave pictures one of these days.  If you wanna see what I am talking about you can check out our ManCave posts in 'home game rooms' or here http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=3071.0 or ask anyone that has seen it in person. :91-

This is a very addictive hobby but oh so fun.

BTW  :136- :105- :136- on getting this up and running.

Thanks... I know what you are talking about, I am already to get another one and put the word out to get another non-working one. The wife just shrugged...... then slobbered a little.

I only concern myself with my kids and the grandkids safety.. otherwise, I let them do their thing.... they are 4 and 2, fun ages. Lately I have been having fun chasing the youngest around with my new false teeth.... yes, I can also be an ass.

2 main problems with my machine seem simple enuff.... handle doesnt work, gonna take that apart later or tomorow... might be where that cable I found goes to.

Also, the hopper knife seems cracked and loose.... thus the jamming. I see knifes are cheap, gonna wait to see what else I need before ordering. Otherwise it works fine on credits.

 :103-   Hmmm...might some good business in reproducing some of the harder to find reel strips for the guys on here......   :94-

interesting.... I can look into it. Anyone have a broken one to mail me to see if its even possible? I dont want to take mine off....

And my "barter" thing wasnt to drum up business yet.... altho once I am ready, this website members get the discounted price once I figure out what that will be.

I am sure there are plenty of members here who would have some "extras" you could examine.  Another possiblity might be for a group order of "NLG"
tickets to go in their TITO printers....I know I would buy a few if there is enough interest to make it worthwhile to all concerned.   :89-

I got a couple old strips I can mail you if you wanna check it out and see what you can do.  I'd beinterested in some printer paper too if that's a doable thing for you.


Hey, I did the last two group orders (that I know of) :30- :30-  Do I need to do it again??   :97- :97-

Of course printing on mylar would be a plus too!  :89-

 Dan (tacman)

Oh yea, some nice NEW clean legends without casino schmutz all over them would be nice!!  :89-  :89-  :89-

Ashyron, your just a sucker for hard work and self punishment...did I miss out on the NLG TITO tickets??????  :60-

 :96- I don't mind hard work if it's for a good cause.  This forum has bought so many of those illuminated stickers that there are hardly any more left.  Lots of blue/white ones though. :30- :30-  And my recent quest of hard work and self punishment is trying to build a crate to ship a game.   :103-

As far as the printer paper, I do not recall anyone telling me they wanted some.  I haven't ordered any from Happs yet but we were talking about that just last night.  I am out of paper and need some. I need to get on that. :50-

ok, lemme explain what I do since you guys are smart enuff to understand it.... it is called "sublimation" printing.... I print on specially coated items and the ink "vaporizes" into and under that coating.... and lasts forever basically. Thats the equipment I am setting up now, to do cups, mouse pads, coasters, signs, can covers... all sorts of stuff. I do one-offs mostly, like mothers day stuff with the kids pics on it, or logo's for businesses, and even business card cups for realtors to hand out with each sale. Thats my current setup.

BUT, I have friends here in the printing business also... one of which knows a guy inside IGT :).....  anyhow, we are working on reel patterns and how it might work out. They look to be 29 inches long, on mine, so a 36 inch sheet would be doable IF I can get it coated the way I want. The rest would be getting the graphics and the pattern needed.... the rest is simple doing it my way.

So thats where it is currently.... investigation time. I think I can do it ... but I know it can be done. I got no clue what these are worth, we can worry about that if/when we can do it. I will start a new thread once I have an idea about it.

What would mylar be used for? The reels?

It's the printed stuff on the back of plate glass used for award, reel, and belly glasses.
Comes clear to begin with...
I have no idea how they get it to stick to the plate glass without bubbles though...vacuum?

Yeah! But it is OK for  her buy them Grand Theft auto, or a shoot um up war game or rape game for their game console and thats OK!!! My Grandsons 3 and 18 months love the machines. The 18 month old will say "HOLD ME" sit on my lap and hit all the right buttons and get excited when he wins. The 3 year old is more interested in the tokens going in and winning them back and seeing them hit the tray. No corruption.. just playing with antiques as they will remember when they get old enough to undersatnd. Poppy's toys!!

stayout... I was told the glass is screen printed today, when we looked at my reels..... maybe some were mylar, I dont know. I used to draw on mylar, hated it...... back before CAD.

The kids do prefer to see and hear the coins go in and come out... so I guess I better get my hopper fixed sooner than later.

I don't know if it's Mylar or not but I know one thing...I dropped a
reel glass one day onto the coin tray on the floor.
Cracked in half and then some...but I noticed I could actually peel away
the printed backing from the glass but it tore.
I've read a bunch of posts that some of or members use kerosene I think it was, to completely
remove the printed backing so it could be reinstalled to the back of another piece of plate glass.

I bought a piece of plate glass and had it cut today at my local auto glass place.
I love it!
They used a sanding belt machine to finish the edges really really nice.
They used 1/4" pinball type glass with smooth rounded edges.
Because I'm making a custom machine from scratch - there's no graphic
pattern for this particular machine I'm making.
I've used a paint shop program to make my own design.
Now, all I need to find is a local printing place to
have them print out something to put on the back of my glass.

As far as kids playing with these old machines...I see no harm in that.
I'd make sure they use tokens though...keep it more playful really.
It's a lot easier to show them how these old machines are than it is to
talk to them about the birds and the bees...LOL
I'll leave the schools to do that part... :72-

I just dont know... maybe printed mylar.... OR... a printed transfer, like how they do tshirts. My machine was made in '93... the dude that has an ink business and knows printing told me it was silk screened... and maybe once dried on, it will peel off in one piece?

Making your own.. too cool.... got parts you need converted to 3-D models? I aint looking to make money, I just enjoy my work :) Been doing it for 20+ years.

I don't have anything like that (3-D parts) but my real enjoyment is
designing and building my own Frankensteins from scratch...LOL
Putting machines together from gathering parts is okay too but
nothing beats making something with your own hands from head to toe!

If you were designing the thing from the floor up, you would be making the frame, covers, doors, etc.... you may have sketches on how you did it. From those you would make the 3-D models and built the virtual machine. From there, you do drawings then any changes or ideas came be done without cutting any metal... to see how it may look or work. We did this with jet liners, satillites, farm equipment, etc in my carreer. I currently use a 3-D coffee cup and put the graphic on it (JPEG) so I can show it before burning it on a cup. Its cool stuff, to me.

 :103- You know, come to think of it...a mouse pad with maybe the IGT symbol in the middle, and different reel signs
around the edges might be pretty cool to have... :109-


Hey rickh    check your  email    :172-

email any ideas to me... rick@animal-pen.net..... graphics etc.... I can work on a sample :)

Just to show my grand daughter is enjoying the slot machine..... her and her brother say "come on cherries, hit that line".  :131- :3-

Double fisted smoker and drinking Bud ! :200- Slot machines are the least of your worries with her  :200- :200-

you have no idea..... she will be the nightmare for my son.

I live near NY state and just got back from the Monticello Casino and race track yesterday and there was a family with a little kid in tow.  All this little girl wanted to do was play the slot machines and man was she crying! Dada and Mama had to explain that she had to be 18 to do this which made her cry even more............Poor kid, well before you know it, it will be like France where anyone of any age can drink, etc.

My slot machine is working fine still, other than the coin hopper jamming up with some payouts... cleaning it out is on my to-do list and it looks like the agitator and not the knife is cracked and loose.

What cracked me up was when a riding bro stopped in this week with his girl.... she zoomed right over to the slot machine, put in 2 tokens and pulled the handle. I was about to tell her the handle dont work and there it went and worked fine! What the hell.... ALl we can figure is I was trying it when on credits and not after a coin dropped..... and it dont work on credits. Assuming this is correct, thats one last thing to fix.

And do you guys know how dirty little kids get one of these machines? Little finger marks all over it after they were done!

Use a micro-fiber cloth to "buff out" the dirt and prints, it will look great, no water or cleaner needed.

Most SP chips don't treat the handle as a "repeat bet" switch.  Try this with credits on the machine:

- Press the Bet 1 button once or twice
- Pull the handle

If it works, then that's normal behavior.  You must insert coins (or wager credits) before the handle will work.

aha.... I will try it, thanks.

Coin hopper is all I got left to figure out... I found the agitator is cracked badly in 3 places, and that part is available. I am figuring to put it on the work bench and take it apart, clean it up with WD40, and see if thats all it needs. Sound right?

Sound's good, don't know if WD-40 is the right stuff to use, check around.