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Ok, so I got a IGT S+ about a year ago with a DBV-200... worked perfect. Then I installed a progressive display board... and in the process of doing so, managed to break (?) my DBV-200. It continuously cycles from the moment it's powered on. I've been over all the wiring with a multimeter, verified all the bill paths, etc etc... can't find anything wrong. The only spare part I have is a power supply for it... which didn't help a bit. Can anyone give me some advice on how I can troubleshoot this without any additional spare parts? (I.E. Could I take the head out of the machine, power it while separated and see if the problem continues, and if so, that would eliminate the bill path, cash box, etc etc?)

Or is my only choice to start buying more parts until I happen to find the one that works?
 :99-

It sounds like the head might just need to be reseated. I would loosen the two screws up front, remove, reseat.

Done that... many times. How does the head know when it's seated? Perhaps there's a sensor or specific part I should be verifying?

Hello!

I had a DBV-200 and transport that would keep cycling at power up once.  Turned out to be a bad BV power supply - replaced the supply and the issue stopped.  But sounds like you already tired that...  :37-

I don't have a S+ to test with anymore, I believe the head alone will power on test correctly even with all the wires disconnected.  So unplug the connector on the right and the 2nd one on the left so that the only connector is the power connector and see if it still keeps cycling.  At least you would know if it's the head or not.  FYI - you don't really need to take it out of the machine to do that.

Dan #2

Have you checked the 4 wire connection on the right side to make sure all pins are connecting?

Ok... So I unplugged all wires from the head with the exception of the power cord on the left and the brown (8 or so wire?) header on the right, and it still cycles. When I unplug the brown header on the right as well, it doesn't cycle. Can someone try it on their machine and let me know if that's "normal" operation? Would that then indicate a problem somewhere in my bill path?

I'd be happy to try that in the morning and give you a reply.
Maybe some else will try it sooner?

Hello!

Once again, I no longer have a S+ to test with - but the brown header on the right is how the head comunicates with the transport - so that would make me think something isn't right with the transport.  There are multiple sensors on the transport to watch for a bill - maybe they need cleaning?  There is also a disc with slots in it that spins that a sensor monitors - it's kinda hidden within the transport and not as easy to clean - I would check that sensor and wheel too.  It must think there is a bill stuck in there...

Dan #2

Here's the DBV-200 service manual. It doesn't specifically cover this problem, but it describes the built-in test modes and the DIP switch settings to get to them.

This and all other JCM service manuals can be downloaded from product support/tech manuals (http://www.jcm-american.com/support/tech_manuals.asp) at jcm-american.com.

Yeah, I had looked at the service manual myself a bit... but if I'm not mistaken, the LED light they're referring to is the one on the connector they show on their photos... not the one that's built onto the unit itself. Am I wrong about that? Based on the pinout, I think it needs to go from pin 7 to pin 8.

I don't have a SET chip at all... (though I haven't needed one up to this point) I was a little hesitant to start messing with test mode on the DBV for fear of doing something like corrupting the ram or anything that might need me to use a set chip. Is there any chance of that, or is the SET chip all used for internal operation of the S+, and completely independent of the DBV? I also don't have any of that special calibration paper they refer to... so again, I'm very cautious about throwing dip switches on that thing.

I'll start by cleaning every little piece of the transport and going back over the transport's wiring again...

Thanks for the help!

Yes - you are correct.  The LED they refer to is not the ones built into the head.  BUT - if you have it in a machine, the yellow bezel on the front of your S+ is wired the same - so you can see the status/response blinks on the front bezel.  Follow?


I have done all the tests on a DBV-200 including calibrating with the correct paper and it won't affect the slot or the slots settings...so you won't need a SET chip after preforming the tests.  Just make sure to write down what the dips were set at before you change them so you can put them back :)

Dan #2

Ok, so I ran through some of the tests - thanks for the info on the LED on the front... It hadn't even occurred to me that those wires went up there.

Bill Registry without stacker passed with no problem at all.
Bill Registry with stacker sends it into an endless cycling mode. No LED indicators... seems to get locked up the moment I flip Bank 2-#6 off. I let it run for about 20 seconds before giving up... maybe I need to let it think about it for a few minutes?

I thought about doing the Solenoid, Carrier/Storage, and Stacker Performance tests, but all three of them read "With the power off, set the DIP switches for the test. Turn on the power. All three LEDs will light, the left one will blink until Bank-2 #6 is turned off." And I have no idea at all which 3 LED's they're referring to. Can you give me some guidance what I should be looking for on those tests?

Is the Transport engaging fully with the stacker?

I know when I remove my DBV-200 and transport form my S+ that when I re-install it I have to make sure the transport goes in level, and does not stick up in the back once I have released the lever on the transport. Sometimes I have to give it a gentle push or tap to get it to drop into place.

I don't want to say I'm positive I'm putting it in right, but I had used it for a few moths prior to it no longer functioning and have a pretty good idea as to exactly what you're talking about. It took me a while to get the hang of it when I first bought it... but I'd like to think I have the hang of it now. That, and I've reseated it at least 25 times since it stopped working. I'd *hope* I had it right at least one of those times.

I agree with Foster, sounds like the stacker gear is not engaging, or something else is stopping the stacker motor (in the back part of the transport) driving the pusher plate. Has it got a broken tooth in the stacker gear train or the gear on the cash box? If you turn the cash box gear by hand (very stiff) does it push the plate inside? Does the little plastic plate at the back of the cash box top move? The validator has to sense that going up and down.

Checked the teeth - none appear broken. Turning the cash box gear by had does move the pusher plate (in one direction - it turns the feeder wheels when turned in the other direction).

I did notice though that the gears on the stacker gear train (the feeder path between the head and the cash box) never even try to move. The cycling I get is alternating between half a second of the head motor running and a quick "click" noise coming from the feeder path. Those gears that would be touching the cash box have absolutely no movement during this cycling. The cycling continues with or without the cash box installed.

I wonder if the harness wires on the right side become broken some how, easy to do on the S+ if you don't have the protection plate installed, keeps the wires away from the door latch area.

Have you removed the entire head, transport and cash box, inspect every thing for some kind of obstruction on a sensor,
also check the drive belts on the head and transport for belts slipping, also there are sensors in the cash back cavity near the
bottom on each side, I believe they are a kind of optical sensor, check to make sure they are not obstructed and the connections are good, check the cash box there is a hole in it near the bottom for those sensors to look through, check for obstruction there, if I remove my cash box and power up my unit it will cycle for several times looking for the cash box.

Wes

Here are some old notes from my files. Don't know the authors so I hope it may help.


Re: Continuous Cycling of DBV-200
« Reply #6 on: November 13, 2006, 09:34:28 PM »   

________________________________________
That black four pin connector to the right of the head is the connector to the optics in the cashbox housing.
This harness itself can go bad by developing internal breaks, causing such symptoms.  And the optics I speak of in the housing also goes bad.  This is quite possible.  It is a great idea to keep a second housing around.  You can take the hopper out, put your head/transport in the test housing and place it all where the hopper would be, put your can in and fire it up to see if you have issues with the original housing optics or harness.
  Another thing that happens is that the heads of the wire ties that hold that same four pin black harness routed along the transport path on their way into the housing can be sitting in such a way as to not allow a good seating of the transport, causing similar symptoms.  This usually occurs after you remove/replace the transport for a bill jam.  Cut the wire ties and tuck the harness under that lip loosely just long enough to test it again, then re-wire tie it so that the heads do not impede the transport from being flush to the housing.
  Those cash box housing optics have to be able to see through the two holes on either side of the bottom rear of the cash can at the exact proper time in the cycle.  If they don't, you will have these issues.  Great idea to have second cash can to troubleshoot.  Also, if the feet that prop up the cashbox get bent too far down (or up), this is another case where those same housing optics will not see what they should when they should.  Check the feet and adjust as necessary.
  Also:  if one particular wire is broken on the 12 pin brown connector that goes from the right side of the head to the transport unit, you will have similar problems.  Great to have an extra of those harnesses to help troubleshoot as well. 
   
 
I had the same problem with one of my dbv-200s when I upgraded my machines. The head that was not flashed correctly just kept cycling quickly o&o. I bought it from Ben Sr. and I just sent it back and he sent me a replacement. Is there any chance you could contact the seller for a fix or replacement?
Even if it's been a while - they might charge you a little, but it might be worth it.
Just a thought.

 
Re: DBV 200 troubles
« Reply #15 on: Today at 08:05:50 PM »   

________________________________________
I'm not sure I am following you. Did you say that you pulled the good machine CPU board/tray and plugged it into the non-working machine, used the set chip (despite the fact that it indicated that the DBV was already set) and then played one coin before getting the error 3200?
 
Did you try using the bill valuator after you reset the denomination in the known good CPU board (before you pulled it back out and put it back in your other good machine)?

If you plug the Non-working Bill valuator CPU/tray into your good machine, does the Bill valuator still work on the good machine?

I am thinking that maybe you have a bad CPU board that is not recognizing the activated DBV?

Another thought ... Are you sure you have the 6 pin plug for the bill validator harness plugged into the correct slot (J6 - perpendicular to the front of machine) on the motherboard?
The correct wiring for J6 on the motherboard (as per my machine) ... Pin 1 (closest to front) Yellow with brown stripe (Bill acceptor output) Pin 2 - Brown with Yellow stripe (Bill acceptor input) Pin 3 - no connection Pin 4 - Green (Ground) Pin 5 - Orange with Green Stripe (24 Volt AC Hot) Pin 6 - no connection.
I ask because you switched the motherboard, and J13 is also a 6 pin slot (positioned horizontally to the front of the machine) but is for a printer.

On the Harness were the DBV power supply connects you should find two additional wires ... Black with Red stripe (117 VAC Hot going to your main Power supply) and White with Red Stripe (117 VAC Neutral also going to your main power supply).

I took out the cash box and verified the wiring (using a basic multimeter) from the cash box sensors up to the wiring harness... no problems there. I verified all wiring from the bill transport sensors back to the side-mounted PCB. No problems there either. I also verified all wires coming from the head unit to the side-mounted PCB... no issues there. So I'm 98% sure my problem isn't a broken wire at this point.

Noticing that the transport motor never seems to spin at all (and someone mentioning that it sounded like the head thought there was a bill in the path that it needed to clear), it occurred to me to put a bill in the path and see what happens... Doing so caused it to no longer cycle. It doesn't become active (I.E. no Bill-ready LED on the front), but it does seem to stop the continuous cycling. I don't know what that means, but I'm pretty certain that's not normal behavior - I would've expected it to spin the transport motor to clear the bill. Incidentally enough, I also learned that when I have a bill in the transport and the cash box removed, it doesn't cycle (just as it does with the cashbox fully inserted) - BUT, when I then put my hand between the cash box sensors, it begins cycling again.

So at this point, I believe I've eliminated wiring, the cash box itself, and the sensors in the cash box (seeing as how those sensors are detecting my hand). I think that leaves me with the transport itself or the head... though the head seems a little less likely, since it passes it's internal bill validation test without the transport connected.

I do wonder about the J6 vs J13 thing you mention on the motherboard... Can you point me to any pictures or diagrams as to what that's referring to?

And can anyone give me any more detail on how I'm supposed to perform the Solenoid, Carrier/Storage, and Stacker Performance tests (or at least what I should be looking for and expecting)?

Well, I went through the other DBV tests despite not knowing that LED's they were referring to... I still don't know, *but* I do know that the Normal & Reverse Motor rotation tests rotated the rollers on the head only. The stacker Performance and Carrier/Storage tests sent it into continuous cycling mode, and the Solenoid test toggled the Solenoid, but no continuous cycling. At this point I'm strongly suspecting an issue either with the motor in the transport itself, or a problem with the PCB mounted on the side of the transport. That, or I managed to damage some part of the logic within the head until without damaging the head unit's self-tests - Possible, but seems unlikely. I'm thinking my next step is to start looking for a replacement transport unless anyone has any better ideas.

FYI Slotster,

Thanks R... I took a quick look, and although I have the BV connected properly, interestingly enough there is a harness connected to the printer output as well... I'll have to trace those wires one of these days and see where it goes. It did make me wonder though - the problem all started when I hooked up the meter... I have to wonder if I possibly damaged something on the motherboard. :( One more suspect part to add to the possibility list.

So curious - can I eliminate the MB and wiring harness to it by disconnecting the MB connector and powering it up? Or will it not come on at all if it doesn't have a connection to the motherboard?

The BV will power up, they run off a seperate PS especially in the S+ it is J6 on MB for the S+.

Yep - powers up without J6 connected, but it continues to cycle... so that at least eliminates the MB and the wiring harness coming from it. I'll try disconnecting the transport motor from the PCB and give it 12v by itself... make sure it still spins. Since that's the one thing that isn't happening but seems like it should. Anyone know of a good way to test these optical sensors? I would assume I could apply 1.5v to one side and check voltage (or resistance?) on the other side... But even if that's true, I don't currently know how to tell which side it the LED side and which side is the sensor, or which is + and which is -.

Ok - powering the motor up by itself proved useful! It spun very slowly for a second or 2, then picked up speed - as though there was some dirt or oil in there that was preventing it from spinning, but then broke free. I stuck it back in the machine, and it successfully took a bill!

Unfortunately, one seemed to be it's limit. When trying to take the 2nd, it struggled for a minute trying to feed it through the transport, then finally gave up. Resetting it sent it back into it's continuous cycling mode.

So my next step - take apart the transport so I can get to the motor, and figure out what's going on inside that shiny motor-looking thing that the motor connects to. I'm betting it's some sort of gear assembly (?) that needs to be cleaned out....

I would think it is the motor itself.  I have had some in the past that weren't strong enough to do the job.

Good luck,
Wayne

No such luck there either... Everything moved amazingly well once taken apart. I oiled it up a bit, rotated everything by hand (rather easily) and put it all back together, only to be right back to where I started. Reverted back to powering the motor by itself again, and this time noticed that as the motor struggles, it's also shooting all sorts of sparks internally. It again loosed up after a few seconds. Since everything turned with little effort without the motor in place, I'm now thinking that the problem is contained within the transport motor itself. Anyone know of someplace to get a new one? I found this link on e-Bay - http://cgi.ebay.com/WBA-TRANSPORT-REPLACEMENT-MOTOR-FOR-YOUR-WBA_W0QQitemZ260266326289QQihZ016QQcategoryZ13731QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247 (http://cgi.ebay.com/WBA-TRANSPORT-REPLACEMENT-MOTOR-FOR-YOUR-WBA_W0QQitemZ260266326289QQihZ016QQcategoryZ13731QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247), but that motor really doesn't look much like the one I have at all. Mine is short & fat.

That one is for a WBA.  You may find a transport easier.  You could also contact Jim at Blueridgeslots (member and vendor here) as he likely would have what you need.
http://stores.ebay.com/BLUE-RIDGE-SLOT-SERVICE (http://stores.ebay.com/BLUE-RIDGE-SLOT-SERVICE)
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=profile;u=76 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=profile;u=76)

Good luck,
Wayne

Thanks Wayne. Looking around the net, I did find the replacement motor at AG&E (www.americangaminginc.com (http://www.americangaminginc.com)), but they have a $25 minimum order... and I've found a full (refurb) transport for $35, so I'm thinking the transport's probably the way to go. I did take apart the motor itself and confirmed my suspicions.. It was filled with magnet dust, and the brushes were pretty well destroyed. I had some hopes of cleaning it out, adding some lube and putting it all back together again until I broke the little (already well on their way to being broke for good anyway) brushes trying to get the cap back on. It was good to see that I have in fact found the problem though. The thought of buying spare parts (Cash box, transport, head, harnesses, processor board...) just to get a toy up & running didn't sit well with me - not knowing which would really do the trick..

I'll check with Blue Ridge & see what they have before going with the transport I found. Thanks again to all for all the help!

Hello!

Don't know if you fixed this yet or ordered a replacement transport - but there is a transport and DBV-145 head on eBay right now for $9.99.  I think your head is ok - so you would really be just buying it for the transport which is the same for the 145 and the 200 - take a look :)

http://cgi.ebay.com/JCM-DBV-145-SS-Bill-Acceptor-Assy-IGT-S-Slot-Machine_W0QQitemZ350117935809QQ (http://cgi.ebay.com/JCM-DBV-145-SS-Bill-Acceptor-Assy-IGT-S-Slot-Machine_W0QQitemZ350117935809QQ)

Dan #2

Wow... that is a pretty unbelievable price. Thanks for thinking of me. I did get in touch with Jim at Blueridgeslots though, and he said he can get me my choice of new or used motors for the transport. He's been very responsive, and since I can get a new motor pretty cheap [as I would have expected... assuming I could find them], I'm just going to go that route. With $18 shipping on that auction and 6 days left, I'm betting the price will be going up a bit before it's over.

Hello!

Don't know if the price will go up because it has the older 145 head on it...but can't go wrong with Jim - he's great!

Dan #2

I also noticed that the 145 head they're including doesn't have the EPROM... I'm sure it wouldn't be tough to find one, but sold separately, and may not work at all...

I have a the same problem as mentioned aboved. Validator head will spin and unit will click, validator head will spin and unit will ckick over and over for 15 minutes or so, then it will stop and take bills for the rest of the time until I turn off the machine or open the door. I think it is a power supply issue. Have cleaned and checked installation to no avail. Ordered a new power supply to see if that fixes it. IGT s+ machine round top currently a 731 and 3089 chip for double jackpot .

Good luck. My (main) issue was in fact the motor, and replacing it solved the initial problem. Unfortunately, I also learned that my rubber belt to pull the bill through had also lost it's pulling power by the time I got the motor replaced. I should have just gone with a new transport in the first place.

Replaced the power supply today....no change :37- Was only a $9.00 investment though! Time to replace the head or transport. I think the head is more likely as the trasnsport is not in play yet when it starts to cycle the gears have not even moved yet only the motors in the head. The leds on the head board flash one then the other with the clicks and the head motor runs to match. If I open the head the motor runs constant and when I close it again it cycles. When it stops cycling the face plate will illuminate as if it is ready to accept a bill, but if you insert one it will go in about a half inch and stop and the cycling will start again and the bill will stay there.

The symptoms sound just like what I was experiencing. I think it's possible that the head is trying to cycle the transport but the transport's not responding properly. If you can find a cheap transport, it might be worth a try - those heads are expensive!

Found both a head and transport or $49.00. We will see what works..

Installed the new head and transport assembly. Same dbv200 unit with updated software. Now it powers up as it should cycles and is ready for a bill. It will take the bill (any bill) all the way in..wait 8 seconds then give it back. Should I need to set the value again after changing the DBV and power supply? Also I did change the game to 731 5 times pay 5 coin. Will try another game that the validator worked with just in case it is a compatibility issue with the game. Any other ideas?

OK installed last known game that worked with the bill validator, 1271 chip with a 4080...validator would not light up. Put the 731 back in and no validator lights??? I have to find a set or validator set chip. Was at least powering up but now the chip swap around ended that.. :103-

You either have Dipswitch 10 on the BV set to ON, for the 731, should be OFF, or you have the Credit Limit set too low, or possibly another setting, but when you changed the SP (Game Chip) that disabled the BV and you need to use a Set Chip, such as a SET 15 or similar

I have changed games a few times and never lost the bill validator, Is it normal to have to reset the validator after a game change? But will check the dip switch settings and i have to find where i left my set chip or just give up and buy another :25-. Time looking for it cost me in money and stress :37- :25-. I am sure I put it right where I would know it be, now if I could only remember where that was  :103- :103- :103-

You can change the REEL chip without loosing the BV setup, but when you change the GAME chip from a different Family you will have to use the SET chip, (Family like SP 1271 to 1274)

OK, got the set 15 chip today, installed it and set the 9_0 to a 9_1, set the denom to 25 when the 6 was in the coins played. Re-installed the game chip (731) cleared the 61 to 61-1 and the bill validator now lights up again and takes bills all the way in and holds them for 8 seconds and returns them. Hopper, max pay, bill limit ect all set to 3000 coins. Machine is set for 25 cent play reel chip is a 7720 5 times play 5 coin. Do I need to set a dip switch on the validator different for this game. I have had this machine with other games for years with no bill validator issues until the last one died.  :103- :103- :103- :103-

Turn all dipswitches OFF on BV, do you have a flash or eprom based BV Head?, may be a version problem but make sure you check dip 10 on the BV for being off

Also the Dipswitches on the CPU of the Machine (not BV) should be 1234 ON 5678 OFF (unless you have a progressive hooked up) also you held the self test button after you set the 25 in the set chip menu until the display went blank correct?

All switches on validator are off, flash rom updated for this machine to accept all but new $5, 1234 are off on system board. I again installed the set chip was allready on 9-1. still showed blank for denom, changes to 25 pressed and held reset display went blank then 0, turned off reinstalled 731 and same thing.

Took the 731 out and installed a 1271, cleared code and played one round with coin, powered down used set chip and then re-installed 1271. Validator powered up and did same thing. Put old sometimes working validator that has worked in this machine for years and it does the same thing when it finally quits clicking and wants to work.

a bv that clicks and stops is usually the power supply

you could also look on the motherboard (board mounted in machine base that CPU plugs into for a burnt trace)

If you read the top of this post I tried that first with no luck. Old one clicks, new one works great just will not keep bills. Validator and transport are new.

also tried the OEM Haywire kit that came with machine (4080 & 779 ) same thing. Old and new validators act different, I am sure the the new validator is working strong, old one clicks still new one snaps to life crisply and takes bill from you quickly...but just gives it back, no clicking. Guess i will pull mother board and look for trace issues tommorrow. Old one accepted bills when it was not clicking.. but not any more something changed.

Confirm with the supplier of the NEW head that the software is DBV-200 SS ID 022/23

It is. Supplier was worldwide gaming.

have you cleared the 4 square on the mother board with a test 123? Ben

Do not understand cleared 4 squared with 123 test, please explain

you put a test 123 chip in the game socket and do a deep ram clear puts everything back to default and it clears the 2 square chip on the mother board. If you don't have one call me. Ben

Sorry its the 4 square chip on the mother board

is that same as the ram / clear chip I bought from you a few years ago or is it a special clear chip. my just sayes ram clear on it.

Hello!

I don't know if you have seen this post in any other thread, but you may want to check it out.  There are some tabs in the back that have to be aligned just right....

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=4226.msg8620#msg8620 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=4226.msg8620#msg8620)

Dan #2

I did see the thread, that was one of the first things I tried.  Thanks

it will say test 123 when you use the chip it goes through 2 files and stops at 999

My offer stands to test your Head (and preferably transport with harness in between) to determine if the problem is in your machine or the head, since you did not have a problem before changing out the head, just because the head is new (to you, not new in box) does not mean it is working, even bench testing can show good acceptance and not communicate in the machine, I have had 200's that had a comm. problem before and bench test fine, this is since you don't have another machine right there to try it in

Thanks for the offer and I might go that route soon, The old validator will do the same thing when it stops clicking. The clicking was intermittant and the validator worked. Then it stoped working . So symptom was there before head replacement, just had clicking too. now no clicking. Power supply change was about when it stopped working, old supply is back in machine and is plugged into the correct harness connector. No pins backed out or bent. I will try the ram clear first to see if it helps and so we can rule it out.
Question back to the set15 chip. Installed the set chip changed the 9-0 to 9-1 pressed button to get the 6 for denom set, window empty and steps up to the 25 cents, press reset and hold window goes blank then to 0. reinstall game chip and clear code, validator lights up and takes bill and gives back....now for the question...If  I pull the game chip and put the set chip back in it shows 9-1 first without having to change it...but show nothing for denom until I press spin button again. Should it come up 25 right from the start as it was all ready set to that last time around? If so it is not saving the denom and that maybe my problem???

The 4 wire harness on the right that goes under the transport into the machine (the one the door latch bites into) which I think is for the cash can optics, would it cause this problem if it is faulty?

OK, Tonights progress or lack of... Found out why original validator was clicking, 9 pin connector where validator power supply hooks to machine harness had the green wire backed out. Repaired this and tried again no change. Tried old validator head and it no longer clicks. Powers up and acts just like the new one. Takes bill and gives it back in 8 seconds, tried a new 5 that it is not programmed for and it gave that back in 2 seconds! Both old and new head did this. Tried set chip again no change. Can't find my ram clear chip to save me :8-
Pulled the mother board and checked connectors and for burnt traces..none found. Checked all other connectors for backed out pins, none found. Tried dip switch 10 on the validator just for the hell of it, no change. Ran the JCM test mode for bill registry with stacker and it took the bill all the way into the cash can with no error codes. Both old and new head. To me this rules out the heads.
Need to order a ram clear chip since I can't find mine.

Sounds like you need some one on one call me. Ben

Success :3- :71- :131- :88-

Installed the 123 clear chip and let it do its thing, re-installed the game chip powered up and cleared the 61-0, put the set chip in and set the validator to on and 25 cents, put game chip back and all works great again!!!! :3- :3- :3- :3- :3- :3- :3-

Thank all for your help  :131- :131-

Another one solved

I so happy you got your game up and running again!  :3-
Looks like you had a corrupted ram chip....the clear chip wiped it out to start fresh!