New Life Games Tech Forums

I was looking on ebay and saw this CPU for sale.  I noticed it has no battery.  It still has the nickel size battery, but the other battery is gone.
Will this still work ?  Should I take all the battery out I have in my machines ?
Will this cause problems with memory or coin credits ?


   :137-   U.S.Auto Service
       Dan

Dan, I believe Tilt found that battery is just used for accounting purposes and if it leaks can cause Door open errors. So the recommendation is to remove it and clean it up just like the one for sale.

 Dan (tacman)

I think that the board could use some more dust. I can still see some green. :200- :25- :97- :97- :97-

Those green nicad batteries are ticking time bombs on your MPU boards.  You can either periodically replace them before they start leaking, or just remove them and never worry about it again.  The green nicad's sole purpose is to provide power to the boards 'tell tale' circuitry when the machines power is off.  The tell tale circuitry monitors and logs security related functions such as the main door opening, bill validator opening, etc.  It's not something most people need for home use slots.

You do need the lithium coin cell battery.  It provides backup power for the CMOS memory and the real time clock.

OK !  can it be remove from the top or should I unscrew the board and remove it from the bottom ?

any and all s2000 machines ?  Once the green mold moves in and I clean it off, will it come back later to wreak havoc ?



   :137-  U.S.Auto Service
       Dan

Just use a pair of pointed snips and cut the legs from the battery.
A good sharp exacto knife would work too...be careful not to cut anything else though!

all mine found the trash can  :89-   you wont miss them.

I was serious about the dust. Dust traps heat and will hasten the demise of the components. You really should clean the board.

I don't think he has the board yet, but yes, it should be cleaned too.  When I get a "new" S2000 board I do the following:

1.  Remove green nicad battery. 
2.  Clean up any acid on board if necessary with water/baking soda solution.
3.  Replace soldered lithium coin cell battery with a coin cell socket and new battery. 
4.  Dust, clean, remove excess gaming tape, & inspect board
5.  Clean white plastic shield that is under the board and mounting tray
6.  Reassemble and reconfigure game options
7.  Enjoy for years - hopefully!

  :37- Crap...  :37- I didn't have time to check all the batteries today, but I did do a few.  This would explain why I have so many dead boards and dead games.

I think it has damaged my boards beyond repair... Big piles of junk.  Look at some of the led's when I tried to ram clear and set chip..




  :137-   U.S.Auto Service
       Dan

I found a easy way to take them out, like a dentist...



   :137-  U.S.Auto Service
     Dan

Anyone want some used battierys cheap ?


    :137- U.S.Auto Service
     Dan

Wow! That might be a bit drastic...pulling them clearly off the board may pull the board
traces off as well which may be connected to others too.
They were probably shorted as you grabbed both ends with the metal pliers.
I wonder if your boards were part of the Katrina damaged machines?

No, I don't think so.  I think they came from Canada.  And were stored away and neglected, left for dead.

They pull off like butter ! they are so rotten, you could flick them with your fingernail and they would pop off.

Anyone know what the lights on the MPU means ?  I assume they are junk .


  :137-    U.S.Auto Service
       Dan

That's an excellent question really ( the lights on the MPU board) !!!
I've seen some documentation somewhere on it and I will try to locate it
but let's hope someone posts before I do!

Here's what I found on the 2 amber lights furthest away from
the test button when the keychip has been recognized.
The amber lights usually stay on.
If the left amber LED lights but not the right, then an error has occurred.
Make sure the keychip is correctly installed.
If the right LED lights but not the left, the keychip has failed
because the processor board or MPU id does not match.
If the two amber lights do not come on, the keychip is bad.

Dan,

OUCH!  I feel your pain.  Those batteries are evil and will destroy your board as you've found out the hard way.  Typically when they start leaking they'll cause Door Open M/MB errors as several circuit traces for those circuits are in the vicinity of/under that battery.  Often one of them will open as the acid eats through the copper traces.  U92 generates the clock signal for all those circuits and is subject to acid damage too.  Maybe a mod will create a "sticky" similar to the S2000 reel strip cleaning warning posts about removing this battery?  It may save someone some grief in the future.

The only thing I can tell you about the lit LEDs is that it's telling you the MPU is not booting, but I'm sure you didn't need them to tell you that!  

 

I know my clear and set chips are Ok, I was able to get 2 boards completely cleared.  I believe the boards are dead, the pictures I posted don't really show the extent of the acid damage, it's on everything, 6 to 8 inches in each direction from the battery.

Another thing I should say is all the boards that tested bad, had new coin size batterys.... 3 or 4 had no problems at all clearing...[/u]

I guess the question now is "anyone have a dozen or so good boards cheap ?"  

    :137-  U.S.Auto Service
      Dan

HEY STAT I JUST LOOKED AT THAT BOARD, GUESS WHAT IT HAS NO DUST JUST CAMERA/LIGHT GLARE FROM THE PICTURE. 

I don't know about that, it looks like a big fat thumb print on the lower left corner... :208- :208- :208- :30- :25-

THE BOARD COMES WITH SOME CHEAP WALLGEEN GLASES ALSO !  :3- :208-

(http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=7775.0;attach=21643;image)



I don't know about that... Bottom left corner. :208- :208- :208- :208- :208-

maybe the camera lens was dirty....LOL  :208-

Nah, it was dirty everywhere but there... Yeah, that's the ticket!  :200- :72- :96- :200- :200- :72-

 :131-   :131-   :131-   :131-  Thanks for the heads up guys...  I removed the battery on my board this morning and did not have to
perform a clear etc.   :25-  One end of the battery was starting to corrode, so the timing was  propitious  :89- Glad I got that sucker out before it went
boom  :192-

...the timing was propitious.
I love it! Forever expanding my vocabulary... :96-

Perhaps I should have said fortuitous or serendipitous??  :89-

All the way through my school years, spelling and a large vocabulary were my forte...
Most of my teachers said that often my papers were too "wordy" and or long, but I still managed
to get great grades.  Now when it came to dissecting and diagramming paragraphs etc...I just could not
get the hang of dangling my participles and the like... :52-
Of course now after 30+ years in the fire service, I curse like a sailor, drink like a redneck, and spend money like
a Scotsman  :97-  :97-

Hello all!

Has anyone had any lucking fixing any of these boards after battery/acid damage?  If it's just a bad trace - that should be any easy fix...

Dan #2

It all depends on the extent of the acid damage and your equipment
on hand to do a decent repair job instead of a hack job.
Like you said, if it's just one or two traces - not too much of a problem.
But acidic corrosion damage gets into places you cannot see.
The more damaged boards require a good washing...but that can only be
done with ALL the power removed from the boards.
That would include both batteries removed and
various IC components replaced entirely.

The pinball guys have this same problem with
the older Stern pinball machine boards.
There's much to learn about how to take care of
battery acid damaged boards from clay's website.
Sometimes, it's just a lot easier to ditch the heavier damaged
boards into the trash bin and get another one.

How did you get the battery out ? did you use the pliers method as I have had much success with !

I have 3 boards drying in the sun to test tomorrow.  Will let you know tomorrow if cleaning works.  I used car battery acid cleaner and a tooth brush. 

    :137-   U.S.Auto Service
     Dan

Dan,  I simply used a pair of angled board nippers, the kind that are made to clip things off flush at the solder joints
on boards.  About $6.00 at radio shack if you need them.  Clip the inside joint, tilt the battery up out of the way and
clip the other joint. Takes about 30 seconds to do it carefully... :89-

I took a few pic's of the boards, some are worse. As you can see from the photo they are really bad.
Most have error "close main door" and some are totally dead.  A few show a garbled display .  No one told me about this problem, I guess some dealers want to sell board and have kept this to them self's.

I was able to yank the batteries from good machines with the pliers and had 100% success.  3 or 4 twists and out the batteries came.   

I hope the word gets out, so people can save some cash and time .

   :137-   U.S.Auto Service
       Dan

I took them out the old fashioned way - desolder - sure safer than YANKING - or just heat the leads with a soldering iron and pull.  I have fixed one board and saved another by removing the battery - this is the same VARTA battery that bally used on their POKER machines (V series) and they too self destructed - in those cases you had to have the battery.  Guess IGT wants to sell boards - they did such a good job on S+ boards no one bought any.

YANK !     YANK !    YANK !

by the time I hit the 10th wasted board , front and back of the boards infested with acid, I was in a yanking mood.
after 15 I didn't even need the pliers, I just flicked them off bare handed !

I love the smell of battery acid in the morning....... smells like .....    Victory !

   :137-  U.S.Auto Service
    Dan

usautoservice singing >>> "I'm...a Yankee Doodle Dandy! I'm a Yankee Doodle Boy!..." :72-

Take a look at this pile !

  :137-  U.S.Auto Service
    Dan

Good grief, that's a lot of yankin'!  :25-  Looks like most of them were leaking too  :8- :8-

Holy crappers!  :127-
You should of put them in a jar and made us guess how many batteries were in it!  :72-

Oh, that's funny, and a good idea too. Wish I would have thought about that.  But hey, I'm not done yet. :60-
Anyone want to contribute to the "help  U.S.Auto Service pay for new boards fund "?
   :37-  I'm a end user, not a dealer, this hurt !   :8-
 :208- :208- :208- :208- :208- :208- :208-


  :137-    U.S.Auto Service
      Dan

I un-solidered mine when I first got it, no problem.

just curious on replacing the 3 volt lithium. Will the ram need resetting afterwards? I have one at 2.8 and am selling. i would like to replace if not too much trouble. jr

When I found out about the battery problem, I removed over 50 batteries and never had to do anything.  Al the machines are up and running like nothing ever happened.  In my opinion , take it out asap to save your board.


  :137-   U.S.Auto Service
      Dan

Dan I'm not 100% sure but I think you and pinball are talking about two different batterys.  :103- :103- :103-