New Life Games Tech Forums

Just picked up a non-working S+  - coins up - but the spin button does not work - so I check the micro switch - tested good - tried a different switch - nothing.  Traced the yellow/blue wire all the way to the mother board - no breaks - has continuity.  So tried different CPUs - changed out the mother board - tried grounding the switch to the cabinet - even when I did a clear and SET15 (the set 15 would not work because the SPIN button would not fire).   after all the moving and clearing - I have door optic issues - where 61-1 won't clear.   Is there a ground someone other than the hopper that could be my problem? 

Barry    the spin switch and the handle switch are in parallell, so if either doesn't work then you probably have a ground problem.    it starts with the chassis ground goes thru the mother board to the switches and out to main logic board.  check the manual on the S+ inputs page 7.   


on the door optics  check out this link     http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=4571.msg39193#msg39193



Jim

the handle does not work too so as I thought it is a ground issue.  looks like I have alot of tracing to do.  thank you.

making progress - I think.  Disconnected the wires going to the handle switch - and voila the spin button works!!!!  thats the good news - then I get into door optic issues - 61-1 would not clear - the ground wires were good (continuity) -  tried every optic I have - no change - so I did the bypass - using green wire to green wire and color wire to color wire and that allowed me to clear the 61-1 (had to remove one of the wires to simulate door open - etc.  once past the optics issue - turned off put in a hopper and 3100 error - which will not clear - I have tried 3 diiferent cpus all do exactly the same thing.  the bv door switch is jumped closed.  will go back and review prior 3100 issues - but the door optics puzzles me.


Jim
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I think your wires going to the handle were backwards.
Instead of the solenoid on the handle pulling back on the pawl - it was probably pushing it...lol
You need to resolve the door optics and/or do a clear chip and start over.
If you don't have a clear, use an entirely different SP chip then reinstall the original SP chip.
That will reset the ram.

 i did the clear etc on all 3 boards that I used for this project - all have different sp ss chips to avoid any issues - all clear - all get the 61 - 61-1 (then have to bypass the optics) - then 3100.   will play around some more tomorrow.

Barry    I think the handle switch was miswired. one wire should go to the commom post, ( the closest to the rubber shock absorber) the other wire should go to the middle post (normally open).  the top post should be empty,  if the wire is moved from the middle to the top post it will put a constant ground on the input to the logic board and you will get the results you are having.

As for the optics, forget about the 3100 code for now, I think when you get the door optics working all these other matters will go away.  look at the repair manual and see the drawing with the "constant door open " defect, this will show you the dc voltages that have to be there for the optics to be operating, if you have a working machine you can place the door and cabinet optics in the other machine and see if they are good,if they are then leave them there and put the good ones in the bad machine. test the dc voltages on each optic wire, the door should be +5vdc, the cabinet should be+ 10 vdc.

Are you sure the mother board that you swapped out was any good?  you did say the machine did coin up, so maybe you put a bad motherboard in the machine.


Jim

Jim - thank you first of all for the responses -  the repair manual you refer to - the only manual I have is the IGT service manual (the monster).   I changed mother boards BEFORE I disconnected the wires going to the handle.  I did not look at their positions since the BV pretty much blocks that.  The strange thing is I use the BYPASS OPTICS procedure using wires to the molex - this alllows me to get past the 61-1 -  (all wires on - door closed  -  remove one wire - door open)..   now I have the door closed - get the 3100 - so removing the wire and reinstalling the wire should be the same as open/close door - but that does not clear the 3100 - works for the 61-1 but not the 3100.   I did not check the coining with the forced door close (with no hopper).   I will begin anew today - replacing the mother board with the one that was originally in the machine.    again the repair manual you use in your responses - is that they FEY manual or ?   thanks again.

I would go into the inputs test and try a few of these tests.
Concentrate on the door optics and spin button tests.
You need to get them working correctly in order to clear the error codes.
Bypassing the optics with the bypass cable will not solve your problems.
You will still have optics problems.
Test for the voltages Jim mentioned - very important in getting your machine
up and running the way you want it to.

Click on it to make it larger.
They might be in your Fey book as well.
If you'd like me to email you them, PM me.>>>

FIXED!!!! the mother board had a bent pin - sounds like that should have been a no brainer but realize the initial problem of the spin button/handle not working - resulting in swapping boards - clear - etc with no fix to the initial problem - once I FIXED the handle (by removing the wires) thats when the optics and 3100 error reared up - going back to square 1 and all fixed.  As for the handle switch - since the switch is not easily accessed with the BV in the way - could not see how it was wired - I would have to assume that the wiring was good but the switch was not-  I am not about to take the bv apart to find out why - this machine will NOT have a working handle.   thanks to all that chimed in - at least the important info is the relationship of the spin button and the handle switch - this could help others in the future. 

Barry    glad you got the machine up and running!  there is no time then the present to practice taking out the bill acceptor assembly.  only takes about twenty minutes to remove it.  only need two screw drivers, (Phillips # 1 ,#2  hardened tip)  and a 1/4" ratchet, six inch extension, and socket.  the hardest part is taking off the bottom two nuts underneath the assembly , I usually drop one in to the power supply, have to remove its cover to retrieve. Next time your up this way stop in and I'll be glad to show you around a S+. I usually have one in some state of disrepair.

The manual I am referring to is the one that is in the "submit a file section" on NLG. Its the S+ and PE+ Electronic Repair Manual .pdf
this book is a powerful tool in repairing a S+. anyone who works on a S+ should have this book.   


Jim

That's the truth! Happens to me too.

appreciate the training offer - I have taken the bv off numerous times - just not worth fooling with if not needed.  thanks for the point to the manual - thought you were referring to the Factory Service (kill a forest) manual..   I will be almost near you next week - making a trip to SLOTDEALS and picking up another truck load of machines.  I am sure the ones I get from Terry will be alot better than the NOT WORKING - AS IS - I buy locally.  The Spin button definitely was a hair puller.