New Life Games Tech Forums

Hello out there, finally this great forum is up and running again,, and I need your help 
A couple of days ago, i buyed a universal one armed bandit but it isn’t working, in the past 5 years it have bin stored in a cellar,, so I hope you guys in here can help me getting it working again…
the name of the slot is : Mountain of money, and here’s a picture:

(http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/761/spillemaskine20003.jpg)

When I first got the machine plugged in… 4 numbers was flashing in “Winmeter” 21 22 13 and 50. After some reading I found out that those numbers might be error codes. Beside those numbers, the yellow lamp at the top flashed and the green where blinking….

after some more reading on the net, I found out that I could do I “ramreset” by pressing the bottom on the “motherboard” while powering off and on the machine… after doing that, the 4 numbers where replaced by a 12. And all the lights on the top was off.

according to an error list I found at another webpage that could mean battery polarity… but when I turned the slot machine off and then on again, the 4 numbers was back again….
Do you have any tips that I could try so I can fix this?
Im, from Denmark, so if my English is a little rusty, feel free to ask me to rephrase….
If you need me to take some pictures I can do this as well

Welcome to NLG iNiLLeR.
The error 12 is RAM ERROR not battery polarity.
Error 13 is power interruption. That will always happen at powerup and will go away when a game is played. Not a problem.
Error 50 is the door is/was opened. That too will go away when the game is played. (As long as the door is closed and locked and the mpu sees it.)
Error 21 is coin-in jam and Error 22 is Excessive coins inserted.

So errors 12, 21, and 22 are the real concerns.
Try another ram clear. Hold that button in on the bottom of the mpu for a good three seconds while powering it up.

If you could take a picture of the mpu board that may help. You will need to pull out the case and remove the cover.
Also take a picture of the inside of the door showing the coin-in optics.
Error 21 is common and can caused by faulty optics, missing sub board on mpu or optics unplugged.
Error 22 is not common at all after a RAM clear. Only after coins are inserted.
Error 12 is not good at all.


I believe you have 230 volt, 50 hz power in Denmark. Universal's can handle 220 and 240 so I imagine 230 should work too. And I'm guessing this machine was used in Denmark before?

Jim

Jim, if you're wondering, I deleted the 704 blank lines following your post!  WOW, I think that's a new record!  :88- :97- :97- :97-

I've heard of technical white papers before, but it was really hard to read this one -- everything was between the lines! :208- :208- :208- :208-

K+  (for the typing between the blanks! :200-)

SF :31-

I was wondering; "What the heck just happened!?"

Thank You Stat!

Wireless keyboard hell, perhaps?  :128-

(I have a love/hate relationship with my wireless setup. This looks like just the sort of thing a wireless keyboard would do when it felt like getting its owner riled up.)

after a reset now...

the tilt light is flashing

the green and the yellow lamp at the top is flashing..... and only 3 numbers appering on the win meter.. 21, 31 and 50....

what can i do to fix this... and you still need me to take pictures of something? or?

and yes the machine is "danish" (it takes 1 kroner) so all the things with power and so on,, should be allright



and one more thing, is the handle supossed to be stocked? i cant pull it? is it because there aint any credits counted or what :)?

Error 31 is hopper overpay.
There are several possibilities for these errors. You need to troubleshoot in a logical manner to find and correct the problem.
The mpu (main processor unit) needs to be checked to see if there is a sub-board attached at location A1. The mpu board is mapped A-M across and 1-10 down. Without this sub-board these errors will happen. This sub-board will be labeled 8116-SW(B-D) or 8116-SDS3.
Check for this sub-board first.
Post back what you find. Pic's of board would be nice.

Handle will not release until game is ready to play with coins inserted.
Jim

(http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/7682/upload3u.jpg)

(http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/1373/uploadfx.jpg)


(http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/2220/26408763.jpg)

Here is 3 pictures,,, if there is something u need me too zoom in on, or something, then just tell me..
are the switches in pic. 1 in the correct places...?

i really apreciate your help..

Thanks for the pic's.
Yes you have the sub-board.
It looks like your mpu board is an 8116-A3. There is a wire covering up the board number. But, your board is different from anything I see here in the states. It appears modifications have been made and it looks like a couple of small capacitors have been replaced. What is the white thing that has glare, located in the middle of the board?
In my first pic I circled the two cap's that look like they have been replaced. (no big deal) The second largest circle is the area that looks modified. Normally a chip is in this location. (C5)
The big circle is the white glare area in the middle of the board.
My second pic shows an 8116-A2 board. A little different than the 8116-A3, but the area around location C4 and C5 should be the same. Maybe yours is modified for use in Europe? I don't know.

Since you have the sub-board, the problem is either the main board or in the machine itself or even a bad sub board. We can't test the main board, so let's assume it is ok and check the machine. But the fact that you have had various errors like 21, 22, 12, 31 after different ram clears leads me to suspect the main board. Let's make sure it isn't just a connection problem, etc.
My next post will be on troubleshooting error 21.

Here is a link to a new topic on the coin-in assembly and error 21; http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=8317.new#new

IF YOU HAVE A STANDARD UNIVERSAL HOPPER;
Here is a way to determine if your mpu is the problem.
 With the error 31 flashing,try unplugging your hopper and then press the yellow reset switch in your machine. This error should go away. Then plug the hopper back in. If the error returns check the hopper for a coin stuck in the count switch area. (Right before the coin exits the machine)
If after unplugging the hopper and pressing the yellow reset the error is still there, then your mpu is the problem.

Your dip switch settings on your sub board suggest you have a high speed hopper. What type of hopper do you have? The above statement is for the standard hopper.
Is your hopper mostly plastic, maybe red. If it is then it is high speed. If it is heavy and dark green it is standard.

Here are some more pictures of the motherboard... and the hopper... i belive its a high speed?

after 10 resets or so the past 10 days... the same Tilt / error codes has popped up... 13, 21, 31 and 50...

so i think i havent done the resets correct... when it showed 12, 22 and so on.....

(http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/1482/dsc00163e.jpg)
Shot at 2010-06-20
(http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/6855/dsc00162wb.jpg)
Shot at 2010-06-20
(http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/1110/dsc00161w.jpg)
Shot at 2010-06-20
(http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/1587/dsc00160xm.jpg)
Shot at 2010-06-20
(http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/4442/dsc00159.jpg)
Shot at 2010-06-20
(http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/8199/dsc00158b.jpg)
Shot at 2010-06-20

but after i did what u said about the hopper ony 21 and 50 is flashing  :3-

so now i only need to get rid of that... but about that.... here is a picture more of whats flashing and whats not

(http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/2889/dsc00164r.jpg) (http://img97.imageshack.us/i/dsc00164r.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

That optic with the LED lit is your problem causing the 21 error. You can remove the coin-in assembly by removing the two screws above the comparitor and the two screws at the top of the deflector chute at the bottom of the assembly. Check to see if something (a piece of paper, etc) is blocking it. Otherwise swap it with the third optic at the bottom of the assembly.

For the error 31. There is three wires going to a small black optic. Look under the optic and make sure nothing is blocking it. (coin or piece of paper)

Your mpu board is most unusual. The processor sits on a raised sub-board. Never seen that before.

In the closeup pic of your hopper and hopper optic, is the number on it U-98P? If it is it should light green when no object (coin) is in it's path. As a coin passes under it the light goes out.

hey.... first off all... i got the wheels spinning :D!!!!!!!!

second: does the wheels spin slow comparing to new machines...

third: when i pull the handle... the wheels dont spin... they only spin when i use the spin bottum....

Fourth: how do i check if the hopper works? and where is the number (U-98P) you are talking about?

just got 3, 2bars.... and the hopper paid me... but are there any places i can see the game modes, how you play and so on etc

and now it works.. i would like to shine it up.... are there any guides/ shops with cleaning tips/ and new electric bulbs and so on.... so i can make it looking crispy clean :)!!

 :105-

Nice to hear it is working!

Not sure what you mean by "game modes"?  :103-

There are tests you can run.
Check your email.

Standard window cleaner for the glass, chrome polish for the chrome. The bulbs are 24volt #657 wedge bulbs. I know Bulbs.com has them. Sure they are available at other locations too.
I saw your eprom numbers on your board pics and I do not have information on those game files.

As far as the question about your hopper optic number, I saw part of it in this pic you posted. Nevermind if it is working ok.

do you know anything about these 2 questions

second: does the wheels spin slow comparing to new machines...

third: when i pull the handle... the wheels dont spin... they only spin when i use the spin bottum....

I am not sure how fast Universal reels spin compared to newer machines. I have not seen much of a difference.

Your handle has three optics. One just right of the reels and two below the reel deck to the right. Check to see what color they are. Gray or Black. I would expect they are Gray.
These are the three optics;
                  "Handle Return Optic" -- underneath nearer the front
                  "Downstroke Optic"  -- underneath in the back
                  "Handle Release Optic"   -- on top next to third reel

Before dropping a coin in the Handle Return Optic should have the red LED lit. (Handle in upright position)
When you drop a coin in and it is accepted the handle solenoid energizes and the Handle Release Optic also has a red LED lit.
As you pull the handle the Return Optic's LED goes out and then the Downstroke Optic's LED is lit.
When you complete the downstroke both the Return and Downstroke LED's goes out and the reels spin.
Once the handle is returned to the upright position the Return Optic is lit again.

How can you check this with the door open?
Open the door and lock the door while it is open. This will satisfy the door lock optic.
Then pullout on the white switch(es) on the upper right of the machine inside.
This will fool the machine to think the door is locked and closed. (The insert coin light should be blinking)
Now insert a coin. Then slowly pull the handle and watch the optics. They should do as above.
Chances are you have a bad optic.

i have doned as you described... but without succed...

"Handle Return Optic" having a red LED lit... but i cant still pull it...?

the first 10 times or so the machine was working... i where able to pull it all the way down... but nothing happened....

now it just seems to be stucked :S

As I said above; After a coin is deposited and accepted the handle solenoid energizes and the Release Optic lights.
There is a small blade that slides into the optic's path and blocks it. when blocked it lights. When lit, handle can be pulled.
1. Before you deposit a coin, is the Release optic not lit?
2. After you deposit a coin, is the blade blocking the optic and is the Release optic lit?

hello ive bin on vacation therefor i havent bin able to answer... but i hope you still have some time to help me the rest of the way...

"Handle Return Optic"  = berfore and after coin trowh in ithis is red, but when i pul the handle the LED goes out.
"Downstroke Optic"  = Before and after coin throwh in there is no light... and i can't pull the handle that mutch down so the arm can go up to the sensor but when i put something "in front" the sensor the RED lid isnt light up..... and the sensor seems to be kinda loose.... ( so maybe thats the problem)
"Handle Release Optic"  = Isn't lid up, either after or before coin throw in. but when i take something and put infront of the sensor it is lighting up...

are there a method to cut off the downstroke optic? to see if thats the problem? and if it is... just simply not having it in use

But i dont understand how the arm could be pulled down some time ago.. and now it simply cant i havent touched any of the sensors before now.

hope this all make sense and you can use this to help me ;)

Hello again,
Here are a couple of pictures to help.
If the release optic is lit then that means the solenoid has pulled in the tab to block the optic and the handle should be free to pull. If it is stuck it could be hung up below the big spring where I posted GREASE HERE. Try wiggling this post while pulling the handle.
Compare the parts in my pictures to yours and make sure all tabs, springs, etc, are there.
The optics send a low/high signal so there is no practical way to jumper it or remove it.
You need all three optics in working order for proper handle operation.
If the downstroke optic is the only thing bad then the handle should pull when a coin is inserted but the reels will not spin.
Your case looks like a bad downstroke optic plus a stuck handle that may need a little lubrication.

The relase optic aint lit.....

(http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/1706/dsc00483bw.jpg)
Shot at 2010-07-17
Here is a picture.... is the tab supposed to be all loose? i can move the tab a bit.. and then pull the handle down (nothing aint happining though)


(http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/3088/dsc00489pt.jpg)
Shot at 2010-07-17

The only sensor thats Lit is the one at the picture...

When you drop a coin in and it is accepted the black solenoid with the two gray wires energizes and releases the handle lock. It also draws in the tab that blocks the optic on the handle release optic. It then is lit. (NOTE: If no one has used the handle since the last coin entry the tab is already blocking the optic and the handle is released. Pulling it will not spin the reels.)

You can pull in the tab with your finger. This will block the optic and it should be lit when blocked and it releases the handle. Again, pulling the handle will not spin the reels.

You said your downstroke optic would not light even when you blocked it. If this is the case then you must replace it if you want the handle to work. No way around it.
Same goes for the other optics. If they fail to light when blocked, then they must be replaced.

ohh okay..... :/... you know where i can get a replacement?

and btw. do you have a place i can see how the wires to the white bottom (that sees if the door is closed or not) should be... so i can get the error code 50 away?

Code 50 will stay on until a game is played (reels are spun).
You can jumper the wires to the white button by connecting the two together. If your white button has four wires than two are used for cabinet interior light. Jumper the blue and black wires. Also remember the door has a lock optic (Older models have a switch). When the door is locked the optic is blocked by a tab, similar to the handle.
If this door lock optic is not blocked, error 50 will happen. 

ok i just played a bít and error code 50 is there when im playing...

i got 3 BAR and desided to cash out to see if it works,,, but now it isnt working :/ is it because of the error code 50 you think

Error 50 should not be there once you hit the spin button. The reels should not spin if there is an actual open/unlocked door condition. If an open/unlocked condition happens during a spin the machine will alarm with a chirp-chirp-chirp and the reels will not stop until the door is openned and the yellow reset is pushed. You cannot cashout with an error 50.

thanks for the answers but do you know any places i can get a new sensor :) ?

another note; the white button, called a cherry switch, is mounted on a bracket that is adjustable. If yours is setting just a bit too far back the switch may be tripping the door open alarm. There are screws behind the bracket. You can loosen the screws, pull the bracket forward and then tighten the screws.

thank you.... when i tested the sensors... i pulled out all the cables to the white switch... do you have a clue how i put them back together :S :P!!

and thanks again...

btw2. did you know of any places where you can get a new sensor?

Jim at BlueRidge Slots should have them, not sure if he would mess with such a small order?
I may a few in the basement, will have to check.
How many are you looking for?

think its only one... but maybe 3 to be sure.... dont know

do you have an answer to my other question

How many wires were connected to your white switch and what color were they?

here are to pictures that shows it....

(http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/1439/dsc00492mg.jpg)
Shot at 2010-07-17

(http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/2696/dsc00491k.jpg)
Shot at 2010-07-17

Your white switch (cherry switch) should have six tabs with three at the top and three at the bottom.
The "door open" wires are black and blue. One wire (does not matter what color, blue or black) goes to the top tab.
The other wire goes to the third tab. This makes it a normally open circuit. You should see a little NO next to the third tab. NO = Normally Open

For four wires connected than there is a green wire and a second black wire coming from the first black wire.
Connect the black to the bottom tab and the green to the tab right above the bottom tab. This makes a normally closed connection. Should see a NC next to the tab second from the bottom.
Hope this helps.

Not sure about the purple? And I will check on the white and gray. But the Blue and Black are for the door open error 50. The green is for the interior cabinet light. They (blue and green) share the same ground wire. (The two blacks)

thanks man.. will try this out....

If you find some sensors then ill be happy :D!!!!

The White and Grey wires are normally attached to a second cherry switch and are used for communicating to the casino's monitoring system that the door is open. You may see a bundle of wires wrapped up behind the hopper. Same circuit. Not needed for home use, not a concern.

another post :) just to tell you that i got the cashout working and the error 50 code away :)

so now i only need some sensors...

and one more thing... are there any places you can get the small light that are in the machine those used to light through the front glass

Sorry, I don't have any extra optics for the handle.
But there may be a solution.
The handle optics are smaller than the coin-in optics. They do the same thing tough.
At the bottom of your coin-in assembly there is an optic below the diverter. You should see two optics together and one down below. This optic counts coins that are diverted to the storage can that would be located in the stand below the machine. If this optic is unplugged or missing it does not cause a machine error. So it can be used as a spare.
I removed my downstroke optic and put this bigger one in it's place. And it worked just fine.
It is a bit of a chore. You need to remove the coin-in assembly first (two screws at top and two screws at bottom behind the chute) Then unplug the bottom optic, unscrew it and remove it. Reinstall coin-in assembly.
Then, above the hopper, remove the interior light bracket (two screws), unplug the downstroke optic and unscrew. Screw in the bigger optic in it's place. Reinstall the light bracket. (removing the light bracket gives you room for a screwdriver to remove the optic)
The smaller optics have a little pin to hold them in position, the big one does not. If you move the machine you may need to check the position of the bigger optic. But I doubt it will move.

The light bulbs are 24 or 28v wedge bulbs. I see them at bulbs.com  24v wedge #657  or TZC 28v 80MA also wedge type

before i disatach that sensor, i think i whant to test if the rest of it works..... therefore i took this picture

(http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/888/dsc00495.th.jpg) (http://img838.imageshack.us/i/dsc00495.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

i think the tab that goes into the sensor is loose... and there is two holes where the two red rings are... are theese suposed to be connected?

Yes, that is a problem. Your solenoid is disconnected from the handle release. There should be a cotter pin connecting those two pieces. You need to correct that.

thanks... the big light linears.. thear are behind the big glasses at the top and the bottoms... are they at bulbs.com aswell?

By your help ive now manage to get the handle working also.... you dont know how happy im am :D!!! many many thanks dude...

Ive got a question more... on the internet ive read that the machine can be very warm and maybe set fire if its on to long.. is there anyway to "stop" that?

I do not know of any casino that caught fire because the slots were too hot! And in the casinos they are on 24 hours a day, seven days a week!

I would suggest shutting the machine off when not in use. That's what I do. (Some folks leave them on all the time.)
And I would suggest a surge protection device on/with a power strip. You can then turn on/off your machine without opening the door. And depending on the quality of the surge protection, it will protect the components from power surges.

yeah ok... ive thought about that to.....

Are there supoosed to be light at the "belly glass" ??

And sometimes when i throug coins in they come out again...... but then i just push the door so its more closed then the coins are taken... are there any way to solve that problem?

It was an attract feature on the Bally Blazing Sevens..... :30- :72- :200- :208-

 :208- :208- :208- :208-  Dayum! This casino is on fire!! :200-

Are there suposed to be light behind the belly glas?

See if there's a fluorescent ballast behind the door.
If so, then you probably need to measure the socket's length
and go buy a bulb at your local hardware store.

Yes there is a light behind the belly glass.
To remove the belly glass and chrome frame so you can get to the light you need to remove the two outer most screws located in the bottom of the inside of the door. There are two more screws at the bottom, they need to be loosened. You can remove them too if you wish.
Then you have to use the palm of your hand to push up on the chrome frame from the bottom and lift it up and out.

thanks got the light working :)

do you have any idea to a nice stand for the machine?... have it on my kitchen table right now... and after a month and a half.. i now would like it back :P