New Life Games Tech Forums

I just picked up a Bally three reel multiplier (I don't know the model # because the tag is gone).  It is definitely a Bally and has cherries, bars, bells, and plums. It takes dollar coins, and you can play 1 to 3 coins. I'm having trouble with the handle release coil. When I first turn the machine on, the coil will release with the first coin. After that, it won't release or takes several minutes to release.

In a related (or not question) the incandescent lights were not working so I pulled the fuse on what I think is the 6V bus. To my surprise my ohmeter was showing zero resistance with no fuse in. Is this normal? I noticed it did this with the hopper and the reels removed from the machine, but stops when I unplug the wire harness in the door and the top of the machine.

Thanks for any help on maintenance or identification you can give.

A pic would go a long way in identifing the slot and getting you help.....

many members collect manuals and may share if they know the right one to send....

I don't really understand what you're saying here, mainly where you're measuring the resistance across. However, if you're measuring from the fuse holder to ground (chassis) you're measuring the resistance of the transformer winding, which is so close to zero that most meters won't register it.

I'm posting some pictures for more info.

If further explanation of the fuse problem: the fuse holder has two spots for wires to enter. My presumption is that those wires should only show as a closed circuit when the fuse is in place. In my machine, the ohmeter reads them as closed without the fuse. None of the other fuse holders demonstrate this.

thanks,
Mike

Sounds like a short.....

In the case of incandescent bulbs, measuring the resistance across a fuse holder with the fuse removed can be misleading. The reason is bulbs have a very low resistance when they are off. Put lots of bulbs in parallel as is the case in a slot machine, you end up with a very low net resistance and your meter may be registering this as near zero (effectively the transformer resistance as Op-Bell pointed out).

A more meaningful check would be a voltage measurement across the fuse holder with the fuse removed. Is it also zero?

Dear Ishmael,
About the only times I ever used a meter on an E/M was to check through the beau plugs to ensure that no wiring was loose behind them (without having to pull and physcally inspect them, and thus weaken the old and brittle solders and wires), to check an occasional diode or resistor value, and to ohm out the coils and solenoids which often fry. (Where there's smoke, there's open coils -- the nose knows)
You can do a complete fuse check without opening the door.
!. If ANY lights come on, you got 120V, the fuse is good.
2. If ANY of the 6V lights come on (insert coin, coin accepted, winner paid, top unit lites, etc) then the 6V fuse is good.
3. When you slightly pull and wiggle the handle, if you can hear the lockout coil de-energise (the armature flipping forward), or if you drop a coin in and hear any coil or solenoid activate, then your 50V fuse is good.
If all three check out, then your fuses are good, don't even bother with them.
WRT your handle release problems.  The Bally generally uses a 2-position coin in switch.  The coin passing across the switch pushes it down, and that releases the coin relay assembly.  That's basically all the 'downstroke' does. (I think it also resets the odds disc at that time...any help here you guys?)
When the coin relay assembly trips, several things happen.  First the coin accepted light should come on, and most importantly, a normally open (N/O) switch going to the handle release coil closes. 
After the coin falls off the coin in switch, now it returns to its normal position (upstroke), and there, it can now push its voltage across that norm/open handle release switch we just talked about.  That releases your handle.
Since that handle coil switch is normally in line with the coin in switch (up position), IF it were always closed, you would always have a handle release.  trace that wiring back to the coin relay assembly, find that particualr N/O switch, and gently bend it closed or carefully use a paperclip, preferrably a non-metal one.  You'll get constant handle release.  Bally designed it this way, very diabolically, and if perchance you do have a free handle, their other circuitry prevents the machine from paying out, and doing other nasty stuff. 
It's all very clever, but I'm sure some of the designers ended up in little padded rubber rooms eventually.
What you should do is first check all your switches and be sure they are all working properly.  Find out each relay release, and release them, checking one-by-one to be sure that each switch fully opens and closes.  Press down on your coil switch stack armatures to check likewise.  When a switch closes, you should noticeably see the actuator move and push on the other blade.  When it opens you should see daylight between the contacts.
Take some time and check all your switches, and while you're at it, take care to gently straighten out any bends or kinks you find in them.
When you adjust a switch, do it at the BASE of the switch, not at the top. You can also gently pull across the center of a stack with a small flat blade screwdriver to help knock of any carbon build up.
When you get good at it, and with some practise, you'll be able to check virtually every switch stack on a bally, in just a few minutes.
And to be able to do that simple thing, puts you light years ahead as far as fixing your machine goes.  You graduate to the next level then, or so I'm told.
 Please keep us posted on what you find out, and send some pix, as I have NO bally pics and have to do this all from a very feeble memory.
Sure wish I had an E/M to play with....
Think I'll go have a beer.
Good luck.

Forget about checking resistances through the machine with your meter, it'll only confuse you and me both.

PS, I've got a bunch of bad Con2 boxes in the shop, with numerous problems.  Anyone got schematics?
Thanks.

If you mean a Mikohn Con2 progressive,  :172- :204-

SF :31-

Thanks, statfreak,


Dear Ishmael,
OOOOps, I misread your post, sorry.
And, of course I went on a long tangent, blah blah blah.
A sticky handle release may be due to cold or old grease, something binding on the handle release armature, or even your dashpot switches not fully closing.
With door open, after coin inserted ( or push down and release the coin switch with your finger), then gently tug on that horseshoe shaped thingy coming out of the pump on the right hand side by the handle assembly.  If the handle releases then, then clean and adjust your dashpot switch (behind the dashpot).
After you drop the coin in switch, does the handle coil buzz?
If so, something mechanical is probably holding the handle armature stuck closed.
Gently lift up on the handle paddle (sticking out toward the front) and see if the assembly trips then when pressure is reduced....
Kinda like the Cheney oil spill, too much pressure bad, too little pressure bad, fluctuating pressure bad. All bad.
LOL.
I'll make sure to read posts more carefully.
I tend to sometimes shout off my mouth before the brain engages.

Wow!
Thanks OldReno,

I checked the dashpot switches and that was the problem. The horseshoe shaped thing was slow in returning and not returning far enough for the switches to make contact. After clean and lube it works great. The only other issues appear to be a bad fuse holder on the 6v fuse and sometimes no payout on when two coins are inserted and the right combo is played. I plan on ordering the wiring diagram, manual and star agitator from foxslots so maybe my knowledge will increase with study.

Thanks again