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Sadly today I received my first battery low error 81 (00) on my 6000.  After swapping out the battery do  I need to do a partial or full ram clear?

I hope that I won't have to put in all my info again.  

I shouldn't be upset though cause it's the first time this has happened to me.  :98-

Yes.  Change out the battery and replace the U28 and U43 with your clear chips.  Then power on the machine while holding the test and pseudo coin buttons on the board.  Continue to hold until the button lights start flashing on and off.  Power off and put back in your U28 and U43 game chips.  Power on and leave the door open.  When the LED display starts flashing number for date entry...just push the service button and the display will go to a 5-0 door open error.  Press the test button to get to the 11d settings.  Enter all your custom settings for the game including limits.  Close the door and your good to go.

So a complete clear is in order. Shoot

Yes it's always good to write down the settings
when you set the machine up for the first time just for this purpose
even worse when it's a progressive and you start from scratch again.
Just in case you need a guide here's good ol Wayne
showing ya how it's done.

Tim


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJ-yRz4AnYc&feature=player_embedded (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJ-yRz4AnYc&feature=player_embedded)

Your right - I had on my bucket list to write down the settings IN ORDER for easy install. 

I find that if you have the settings and you don't have the order in which they appear it's really frustrating. 

Your right - I had on my bucket list to write down the settings IN ORDER for easy install. 

I find that if you have the settings and you don't have the order in which they appear it's really frustrating. 



I hope my batteries are good too. They have been sitting dormant for a year.

Typically the default settings after a clear on standard S6000 titles will "run right out of the box".  After pressing the change button when the date flashes you can just close the door once or twice and it should run.  But you might want to go back in and change your limits and/or enable a printer, etc.

I was part of that group buy of batteries too guys...
I think it was 30 batteries for $5 bucks or something like that.
I know they're still good!  :89-
I haven't done any battery mods on my Bally MPU's so I'm kinda wondering when they go too. :7-
One thing for sure, I'm writing down the settings on a pad and
leaving it in the topbox so I'll have them when they do die.  :89-

Bunker your right - I have a bunch of these white batteries - the'll work right?

Yes, they are the same voltage 3.6 I believe.
However, the sliver ones we got for the S+'s are of a smaller Mah capacity so I don't expect them to last as
long as the bigger purple/greens ones that died I'm afraid...
Also, I think the sliver ones are Lithiums and not the Tadirans.
Offhand, I don't know the difference between those two batteries... :103-
I think they're BOTH Lithium cells and "Tadiran" is just a "brand name"?

You might need to get one of those battery holders and
mod your MPU battery area to have more Mah battery capacity?
Make sure the total output is no more than 3.6 volts though...

Or get a new Tadiran battery the same size as the dead one?

I put the white battery in and it fired up just fine. 


The most frustrating thing is setting up my ticket printer - to set up the name takes a while.

Oh Boy Munch let the fun begin
are you writing everything down this time.... :72-

Oh my god that's the worse thing I've ever seen when I did mine last week...arghhh!
I did it but it was a ROYAL PAIN IN THE YOU KNOW WHAT!!!!  :72-

Yep Yep - That's why I was hoping partial would do it.  :208-

The crazy thing is I had got some numbers and options that weren't even on that list
and some of the capitals that were ON the list were wrong...
Please don't ask which ones because I hope I never have to do it again...lol
I remember printing a ticket and I look at it and scream to myself "What the @#$%&?"  :72-
Then I go back and see what was supposed to be there but it doesn't match the list....arghh!!!

(Need a smiley with me pulling what's left of my hair,  out of my head ! ...lol)

Buzz and I were talking about your machine 81 code Munch.
He suggested that the battery could have been changed while the other was in there.
It's called a "Live Switch" or "Hot Swap"...switching batteries while in parallel series.

This is done while holding the new battery in contact with the old battery and
when putting the hot soldering gun on it, the new one is switched and the old one
removed without ever completely losing 3.6 volts to the MPU.
It's requires deft soldering and octopus's fingers... :72-

I thought it was fine do9ing the "hot swap" as long as there was enough voltage
was strong enough to hold the settings in the MPU's memory chips.
Error code [81]means that the battery dropped below a certain 
pre-determined voltage at some point while the power was off.
It doesn't necessarily mean the battery is dead completely.

However in your case, it may have died on ya while you were on the cruise boat at sea... :5-

I think the power company juiced me while I was at sea cause my WMS is dead now too.  ''

I actually like the AA battery mod on the outside of the MPU tray.  This way you can just replace the batteries with the machine on and never loose a thing. 

I think I'll have my wife spend two hours reprogramming the name on the ticket.   :72-

lol...Tell her I said she's a good woman! lol

I prefer to use the correct battery, but you can double the batteries up in parallell if you only have the small ones. That would be both positives together and both negatives together.  I set up the machines quite often so I don't bother writing down settings, however for the printer I do have a cheat sheet which I have taught my wife to set up now.  Grace is awesome!

Thanks,
Wayne

So Wayne the white batteries that I have are no good?

they have less than half of the capacity of the original.  They will work fine but won't last as long that's all.  I usually do the opposite and put a full AA on an S-Plus which would originally have the small battery.

Thanks,
Wayne

Quick question, someone who supposedly knows about Bally's says that the ticket printer will not print locally, it must be attached to an SAS like system to print whereas IGT S2000's don't need that. Is that true?

Not true with the right mains it will print

how come ticket printer wont print on the bally 6000 monte carlos? and on other 6000s it prints?

Settings or mains may be wrong.
My 6000 prints just fine in standalone mode.

It just doesn't convert the tickets back to coins -
that's where the external validation system comes into play.
Who needs them?
Well, us guys of course!!!

One of us will snatch up some sorta SAS-type software someday and we'll be sticking them in our
home computers and we'll be making our own little play casinos work just like the real ones someday.
Remember, it'll all be in fun and just to make the slot ownership a little bit more authentic-like.

The casinos will be way ahead of us by that time as their validation systems will be far
more complex with all sorts of @#$% high-tech super encoded/encryption
that even the smartest geeks can't figure out how to read.
Why?
Cause it will all be programmed in a sort of combo Borg/Klingon dialect that only Capt. and Stat understand! lol

It should unless the monte needs newer mains which causes the printer to be disabled.

And like I suggested why can't you design a system around TCP/IP or just serial comms? You would have to design a ciricut that would understand serial or IP and not SAS ............

I would rather write a custom firmware for the bv so it could read a paper insert instead of bills.

I agree with Munch but to answer your question reho - I don't think we know how...lol