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I need help getting started on repairing these machine.  It powers up (fluorescent light work) but the display is blank (no error codes).  I have replaced the battery with a 3.6volt battery.  The LED light on the hopper board is off and nothing happens when I press the test or reset buttons.  I've checked the fuse on the hopper as well as the 6 on the back wall.

Any suggestions on where to start would be greatly appreciated.  I've added a few pictures.

thanks
Bob

a few more pictures

check the voltage on the Power supply - board is located behind the hopper to the right of the fuse block - s/b 10  7.5 and 5  DC!   check the fuses as well.

I checked all 6 fuses on rear wall and the 1 on the hopper - all are good
not sure where to check on the board you suggested - the board located to the right of the fuses had a large capacitor on it but I did not see any taps to check voltage.  would you have a picture of the board?

thanks
Bob

I checked the power supply board at all three test loops/clips to ground for the 5 vdc, 7.5 vdc and 10 vdc.  No voltage present at any of the three.  I unplugged the plug on the front of the power supply but couldn't find a schmatic showing what voltage each pin should have. 

Can anyone tell me what voltage I should get from each pin?

thanks
Bob

if you have NO  DC voltage at any of the pins - then the Power Supply is either bad or you have a bad connection (check the blue/yellow wires at the bottom 2 pins of the edge connector).  Do  not know what you mean by the PLUG ON THE FRONT OF THE POWER SUPPLY???  there is no plug on the power supply - only an edge connector that runs along the right edge!!

Should it be 110v between the blue/yellow wires? 

The plug that I was talking about is just to the right of the power on/off switch, I thought it was coming from the transformer which I referred to as the power supply.  The transformer is shown on page 62 of the manual but I can't make out the writing on it.

thanks for the help
Bob

Do you know what and where the power supply is?   

From the earlier post I believe the power supply is a board mounted behind the hopper on the rear wall.  I used a voltage meter to check the for the 3 different dc voltages.  I didn't get any voltage readings.   

What voltage should be present on the yellow/blue leads (bottom 2 pins on power supply).

thanks
Bob

If I understand the wiring diagram there whould be 9 to 11 volts dc at pin 1 or 2 on the power supply board.  I read between each pin and ground and had no voltage.  I traced wires back to pin 3 on the plug (secondary side) of the game transformer, there was no voltage present.  I'm guessing this means the game transformer is bad, if it is do you (foxslots1) have one to sell?  please quote price with shipping to 40228.

thanks
Bob

Progress update:

the problem with the power to the power supply board was a loose connection on the top left fuse located on the rear wall.  It now accepts coins but the reels will not stop. 

I'll try to work a little more on it this weekend so any suggestions on what to do next will be appreciated.

Karma+ to Foxslots1 for all his help.

i seriously doubt the transformer is bad - I would suspect that the connections to the bottom 2 connectors on the power supply board are burnt or you have a bad bridge rectifier on the power supply. 

I have the power proble repaired - see earlier post.
the problem now is the reels do not stop.

Reels wont stop?  Could be the stop solenoids are all gummed up.  A quick way to check is by hitting the Test button once- you should hear a big "clunk" as all the real stop solenoids activate.  There is always Test 2 which will eventually runs through them all one at a time - same thing, you should hear each Solenoid "clunk' as the test activates them in sequence.

Mark

all 4 solenoids pull in when I press the reset button (some times I have to press it several times).  when I run test 2 each solenoid pulls in one at a time.  After resetting and the reels will start but none of them stop.  the 2nd reel is turning slower than the other 4.

thanks for any help
Bob

run machine in 8 mode (use the coin switch on the door - leave door open) activate the coin switch - pull handle - do the reels all stop?  if yes can you activate the coin switch again?
if answers are all yes - lock and close the door - does the win meter show 71 000 or 50 000 - if not there is a problem with the door close switchs.
if answer is no then do the 5 test to see if the reels are reading - if you have 0000 then you have board or connection issues.

  I have all 0000

I tried reseating all connections the board on side and rear wall.  Is there other connections to try?

thanks, Bob

all zeroes  - bad reel reader control board or IO board.

Yup, sounds like a problem in the reel position reading circuitry. I'd look at two things first:  The Reel Reader boards (you have 4 of them) and the Reel Reader Control board.   You will have either incandescent lamps or LEDs in the Reel Reader boards?  If lamps- you should be able to see them light when the reels are spinning.  The infrared LEDs are harder to tell if they are on and working.  But IF for some reason they are all bad or not getting their lamp voltage you could get all zeros I believe.  You should also look closely at that Reel Reader Control board.  It's mounted up under the reel mechanism.  Double check that the two connectors are not damaged or filthy dirty and insure the connectors are seated all the way down.  Pin 8 on J-1 should have 5VDC which powers the boards circuity. Lastly do a close inspection of the I/O boards J-3, insure its seated properly, etc.

Good luck
 
Cheers- Mark     

Thanks and K+ Mark, I did find a loose connection on the I/O board and I am now able to play until I hit a win.  When a WIN is hit The slot startsw making a noise and 32 flashes on the display.  I believe this is a hopper error, right?.  I checked the fuse on the hopper and it is good.  I did notice that the hopper has a lot of slop (can turn approx 1/8 turn by hand. 
Should the hopper have that much slop? 
any suggestions,

thanks again
Bob

when I run test 4 the display starts flashes to 32 (I think this is hopper empty).  The hopper does not run.  The fuse is good.

any suggestions?

You're making progress Bob. :89-  You are correct, the hopper is empty.  But obviously if the hopper isn't turning you will shortly get a 32 no matter how many quarters are in the hopper.   :5-  One little detail is there should be a delay before you get the 32 error as the microprocessor times out as it waits to receive coin-out signal from the hoppers coin-out switch.  So the question is:  Why isn't the hopper turning?  My first thought is the hopper control board is shot- a very common failure with these machines.  The component which goes out most are the two Triacs (Q-1 & Q-2)  If you are handy with a meter you could do a quick on them.  You will want to eyeball all the hopper wiring, especially the backside of the hopper connector to.  The hopper motor runs on 120 AC.  If you wanted to you could isolate the hopper motor and briefly connect 120 straight to the motor to insure it is good.  Watch your fingers though so you don't get bit with 120 VAC or by the turning hopper.  If its not something obvious then it maybe be easier to just R&R the hopper board.  I think Foxslots had them.

Good luck.

Mark

Can I connect 120v to the motor terminals to test?  Do I have to disconnect the hopper board first?

Yes, definitely.  Isolate the motor from the hopper control board.

I unplugged the hopper board and connect the hopper to 110v, the hopper ran fine and dished out coins as it should.  I the re-installed the hopper and palyed a few coins.  As soon as a "pay" is hit the machine makes sounds and about 10 seconds later the 32 cose appears. 

Does this mean the hopper board is bad?

thanks
Bob

Hi Bob.  Glad the hopper motor is good.  Yes, it may be the hopper controll board is bad, but you say the machine makes a noise when it should start paying out?  Can you tell where the noise is coming from?  Backing up a little bit- I wonder if the 110 V is getting to the hopper assembly along with the other signals via the connector in the rear.  If the noise is coming from the hopper then that would tell me the voltages probably are.  You can try this  :79- - remove the hopper, put in a box to catch the coins, play the game and listen for the noise again.  I'm betting its the control board though.  Do you need the schematics?

Cheers- Mark     

When I said it made a nosie it's a bell/tilt sound and not a mechanical nosie. 

OK, I understand  :25- .  I'd swap out the controll board, odds are high that is the problem.

anyone have a hopper board and door lock assemble for sale?

I received the hopper board from Foxsslots1 and after installing the slot is working perfectly.

A big thanks to Barry Fox and MarkInAx,  I really enjoying working on these older Bally machines but would be lost without your help.

Bob

Great!  :3-  Yup, its always satisfying when you finally get them up & running. 

CRAP!

was working perfectly for a couple of days, now as soon as I turn the key on the door it goes into tilt (closing door doesn't cause the tilt, tilt happens when key is turned to lock position.  I can open door and a press reset, tilt light goes off, shut door, turn key and back to tilt.  only code on door is 50.

with the door open it periodically will go through a cycle where the coin mech energies, drops out, the coin out flap (below coin mech) shuts for a split second and finally the coin on the handle mech pulls in for a split second. 

hope someone can help.
thanks
Bob

Hi Bob,

Take a look at both your door lock switch and your door hinge switch.  Also, you can do test #3 and check if the MPU "sees" them working.

Mark

it's working again with the thanks of Barry, re-seated the CMOS chips and all was fine.

 :199-