New Life Games Tech Forums

Hello everyone, I fixed up this Bally 1000 about 9 months ago(with a lot of help from Barry Fox).  The machine has been working good, but messed up on me about a month or so ago.  I fooled with it for a while and felt a reel switch may have gone bad(reels would not stop spinning) I ordered 2 switches from Barry.  When I finally got some time to install the switches, the machine worked again for several weeks until a few nights ago. 
  When I fire up the machine, I hear a lot of solenoids popping(seems kinda normal), but I notice the yellow win light flickers.  The white light on top does not come on with the door open, but does light when you push the attendant switch. 
  I tried to reset and perform a switch test with the test button, but it will not perform a test??  Here is the code that is on the display..Any ideas??

check your power suppy - reseat the connector -   if this is a 1000 - reseat the ram board (the smaller board with the battery) mounted on the mpu.

Barry, reset all the connections on the board and no change.  I checked all  fuses, and reset a bunch of other connections.  I must have touched something, because now I have a tilt code with this error code.  I think I'm close-any direction??

One other thing, the door light seems to work normally now.

your meter now reads 5000000 - check the ribbon cable between the mpu and the IO.

I disconnected the ribbon cable and inspected. Looks ok to me.  This thing is weird. At one point, it was giving me the 5000000 code then cycling to a different code, and back and forth. I will inspect further tomm. night. Thank you

This morning I fired up the machine.  The code 500000 is on, and the tilt light is lit.  With the door open after a minute or so, the win light will come on and the buzzer will buzz for about 4 seconds then go off??

again - the 500000 is usually a symptom of a bad connection between the IO and mpu board - check and make sure none of the 16 pins are broken.

Ok, I will check the connections again. I got some contact cleaner from radio shack today. If the connections look ok, I will ohm out the ribbon cable-maybe there is a crack in a wire or something.

So I inspected and cleaned the ribbon cable, and had the same issues.  I took the power control board out and inspected the connector. There was a loose wire so I fixed it, but still same issues.  I unplugged the large connector from the board and cleaned the contacts.  Now when I turn on the machine, the 5 amp fuse(upper left on the panel blows?) I have to be getting close to something??

Hey Barry, So I removed the power supply board and inspected the bridge rectifier.  It was slightly melted on the side.  I checked it with a multi meter according to instructions I found on the net.  It deff. has a shorted diode.  Im hoping this is what was causing the fuse to blow. My local electronic store had the part.  
 The other 4 diodes on the board look ok, but my question is can I check them without removing them from the board??  I have extra diodes, would you recommend I just replace them? I also picked up a voltage regulator, would it be advisable to replace it while I got this thing apart?
I have been having intermittent problems with this machine for quite some time.  I'm hoping the issues may be cured with a solid power supply??

Diodes - continuity check if shorted then replace.

Ok, looks like I got a lot of diodes to replace tonight :25-

One last question(you know thats a lie) Is there anything I should look for that may have shorted causing the damage to the power supply board?

old age - if you find the answer to that one - I will go partners with you.

Having said that LOL, I decided to replace pretty much everything on that board that I can get my hands on.  I can't believe my local electronics store, www.baynesvilleelectronics.com has all this stuff in stock??  I'm by no means an electronics guy, but that place is awesome!

Hey guys,

I just wanted to give a little K+ here :244- :244- :244-

Slotter for sticking with it, and continuing to get it closer!

Barry for being so helpful!

CaptainHappy :95-
 :nlg- ADMIN

Ok, so over the weekend I pretty much rebuilt the whole power supply board.  The bridge rectifier was not bad(I tested wrong), but replaced it, the other 4 diodes, voltage regulator and small cap.  I tested the voltages at the test ports and they all seem very good. TP1=4.96v, TP2=7.2, and TP4=9.96v. 
  When I turn on the machine, the bell rings a couple times, and the tilt light is on and the other lights are blinking. I am still getting that 500000 code, so I took out the ribbon between the 2 boards and ohmed  all the wires, and could not find any opens.  I also cleaned the connectors and pretty much every molex and other connector in the machine.
 I did notice tonight, that the small lights in the reel mechanism are not lit up.  I thought I remembered they were always on when the machine is on??

reverse one end of the ribbon cable going from the io to the mpu - 500000 is usually a bad ribbon cable - or the cable is incorrectly installed  can also be an board problem but the chattering and bell ringing indicates the ribbon cable.

Still scratching my head....I made a new ribbon cable today.  I carefully removed the end connectors and was able to snap it back together on a new ribbon.  I checked each prong with my ohm meter for continuity and found them to all be good.  I then reinstalled and same thing happening.  I tried reversing one of the cables, and the machine went nuts when I turned it on.  Bell ringing, lights flashing etc.
 If I disconnect the front 12 prong connector from the reel assembly, the machine for some reason will fire up normally.  A 50 .0.00 code is displayed.  The lights will operate normally, 1-5 quarters, bell rings properly with each quarter etc.  Of course the handle won't pull. As soon as I plug that connector back in, the 500000 code is displayed and the feature lights and tilt light will flash.  I also notice that the reel reader lights(or led's-not sure what they are) are not illuminated.  I always remember them being on all the time??

either the IO or MPU board has a problem.  the 500000 indiicates that the 2 boards are not connecting - the ribbon cable is USUALLY the culprit - so it has to be in one of the 2 boards - may be as simple as the J connector or ?

Barry, I just purchased a new ribbon cable from your store.  Maybe a prong is not making a good connection in the socket?  I also ordered a few triacs for the IO board.  It looks like the #32 triac may be bad.  Can you refresh my memory on how to test?  I think I had the positive lead in the middle and one of the outside prongs showed open.  I did the same test on a few of the other triacs and they tested different.  I also noticed the solder looked a little bubbled on #32.  I remember testing the triacs on the hopper board at one point, but forgot the correct way to test.  If the #32 is bad, could that be a possible cause to my issue?

tab is ground - ground to cabinet will actuate the device.  the Q32 - I believe is the reel lites but I would have to check

Any one of the 3 tabs to ground?

Oh, never mind. Metal case on triac body is tab.  Was not familiar with terminology.

Made a little jumper wire and grounded out some of the Triacs.  I can get the stuff like the bell and feature lights to works.  It seems like anything related to the reel assemble does not work-solenoids, reel lights?? It seems like the whole reel assembly is not powered up or something?

Hi... Have you checked the 2 molex plugs on the reel assembly in the right rear to make sure that you don't have a broken wire? I had a machine I picked up that I couldn't get to work my reel readers. The wire was broken on the top plug but just sitting there looking like it was connected. Once I found that and repinned it my problems went away... :72-

Thanks Amachanic, I have checked those connections several times, but the connectors are so old I may be getting a bad connection somewhere. I will really go over those connections this weekend and see what I can find.

Ok, so I did find something last night.  I replaced the reel kicker switches last week and had them both adjusted wrong.  They were both closed all the time! Got them adjusted correctly and the tilt problem fixed. So as of last night I can insert quarter, bell chimes, lights light up correctly,  just nobody home at the reel mechanism. 
  This afternoon fired up machine and got a weird code, bell chattering,ect.  Turned off machine, wiggled reel connectors-fired back up and it's back to what it was doing last night.  There has to be a bad connection or an open wire in that harness--I will keep probing.

Hey Slotter... Did you ever found the lock up problem with your Bally 1000?? I just found a problem on a power supply board that's been giving my fits for a while now, so I'm wondering if you might have the same issue?? My Bally 1000 would play correctly for about 10 minutes, then it would give me a code 33, and my coil on the handle release would chatter, and lights flicker... The voltages were all good, 5.07V, 7.03V, and 9.54V. I finally got my hands on a different power supply to try in my 1000 and the problems now gone. Everything on the old power supply checks out OK, but I know it's my problem. I finally found the problem with the power supply... Mine had 8 cracked solder joints at the power plug pins. They were so small I didn't see them with the naked eye, only when I used my lighted magnifier at 10X. After re-soldering the pins and testing the voltages again, I found that the voltages have increased to 5.07V, 7.32V, and 10.01V. I reinstalled this power supply and played the machine for over and hour without one single problem. I don't know if this is whats wrong with yours, but it's worth checking in to...

Gary   :61-

Hey guys.
What's a Bally 1000 look like?
I've never seen one.
I did a google search and all i found was this...lol >>>

[Court Orders Bally To Send Refunds To 1000 Texans - The Consumerist
Sep 1, 2010 ... The Texas attorney general has advised Bally Total Fitness to
send refunds to 1000 customers it bombarded with false invoices, the Dallas ...
consumerist.com/.../court-orders-bally-to-send-refunds-to-1000-texans.html - Cached]

My reference was to the Bally E Series... Early ones were known as 1000 series, they had the hopper relay boards and different MPU Boards. I have 2 of them, one is a E-1091, and a E-1216.

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=5696.msg49943#msg49943 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=5696.msg49943#msg49943)

Hi Gary, Thanks for the tip! I have not messed with my machine in a couple of weeks. I went on vacation, then my car broke down this week :(
  I will recheck/re-solder the board hopefully this weekend if I get some time. My problem sounds very similar to yours.  It seems the whole reel assembly has no power(reel lights not on ect.)