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Hey guys,

I have a JCM WBA 12-SS in my Game King.  Takes all denoms except for the purple 5's...no biggie.  Ever since I've owned it, I've noticed that sometimes when I power it up, the motors/gears sometimes seem to turn slower than other times.  Not sure why that would be.  I have cleaned as much of it as I can, on the surface, and I was curious if there is a cleaning/lubrication procedure for these units?  I noticed that there was a lot of brown gunk inside the bright green bill entry head.  I stuck a rag on a small screwdriver and cleaned the plastic area...lot brighter now without all of the gunk.  But in the area where the bills disappear into the unit, is there a way to clean that out?  I have read the terms about "cleaning the heads"...but not sure where those are or how to get to them.

Any help and advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jason

I understad exactly what your saying -since Idont have a approved tube of JCM lubricant
I do have piles of tubes of COSMOLINE


May not be approved by JCM BUT I HAVE USED IT FOR 15-20 YRS PLUS ON DBV'S NEVER A PROBLEM !!
I use COSMOLNE in tiny amouns with "q"tip on gears

Cosmoline is the trade name for a generic class of rust preventatives, conforming to MIL-C-11796C Class 3, that are a brown colored wax-like mass; have a slight fluorescence; and have a petroleum-like odor and taste (as detected when working with it).

Chemically, cosmoline is a homogeneous mixture of oily and waxy long-chain, non-polar hydrocarbons. It is always brown in color, but can differ in viscosity and shear strength. Cosmoline melts at 113-125 °F (45–52 °C) and has a flashpoint of 365 °F (185 °C).

of course there will be chatter of its real use firearms !!
PLUS OF COURSE SOMEBODY WILL SAY ITS NOT A LUBRICANT . BUT PETROLEUM BASED .

It would be helpful too if there was a photo of "where" to apply the lubricant. 

*Yoeddy shuddering at the thought of where this thread could wind up since the word "lube" is being used*

Jason I wouldn't tell this secert to just anyone but for you here goes. Open the top of the WBA head ( where the optics are ) If the duck bill ( the green thing ) has two screws in the front, remove them, slide the duck bill up and it will be removed fron the head. Kitchen sink and soap no more gunk !!

And the next big secret of the day is you can download a free manual from the manufacturer.  Get it here: http://www.jcmglobal.com/en/support/downloads/manuals.aspx  it's on the third page and titled "WBA Manual".   

Rocket  Let me ask you, isn't lapping compound petroleum based ?   Would you use lapping compound to lube plastic gears?  I thought not !! Maybe you have had some good luck using cosmoline, but you and I both know, lubrication is not it's intended purpose.

If I were to lube a WBA gears I would use Lubriplate. I don't use any lube on bill heads and transports because I feel dust/dirt will tend to stick to the lubricate, Any one with a half a brain can figure out what dirt will do to a plastic gear.

All of the above is just my opinion. A opinion is like a rectum everyone has one !!!!


Jason next time you think the BV is binding up, switch the bill box with your Game King. See if that makes a difference. (Bill box has gears and they seem to take a beating!!)

You guys are awesome!  Thanks for the manual Tilt!  Got everything washed and put back together.  Nothing lubed.  The duck bill was dirtier than I thought!

Buzz, unfortunately my bill box is the only one that I have...my S2000 has an MEI setup.  No biggie.  I'll watch it, and I guess if it started showing binding symptoms, I'll track down another cash box to try. 

Thanks,
Jason

Buzz-- its always fun to wake up to a semi --contradiction post from you . lol

I use COSMOLINE that you are very well aware of  Navy! water -rust - because its free .

the problem with this NLG at times you have to be a PHILLY  LAWYER when describing something !! before the first guy hits google and says that's not right!!  

as far as Jason's DBV  he most likely has what I call a >>SQUEALER<<< OF A DBV . meaning when it cycles it squeals from a mis-match of gears --or worn gears etc .>>>>> I only <<<< put >>>COSMOLINE<<< on one that is a SQUEALER and have tried everything else to cure  the problem . I did not mention or say in my first post on the subject that I used COSMOLINE on every
DBV in every machine ??

I think Jason and you Buzz  understand ???---what Jason was talking about when he first made his post ??

that he must have a unit that makes noise ?? vs a unit that does not make noise ?? this is not a retaliation post just a clarification post. I have piles of tubes of cosmoline U.S. GOV  ISSUE ..lol

I was just posting a opinion that I   used it --my fault I did not mention that I  use it >>>>sparingly <<<
on a "Q" tip on the gears of the transport of the said DBV . ON TRANSPORT GEARS THAT HAD A SQUEALING PROBLEM!

I think anybody  who has had a slotmachine or arcade product with a DBV has run into the problem of my terms
a >>squealer < < now and then .. when the DBV CYCLES .

sorry to anyone for me posting a opinion on a subject of what I had good luck using  over the yrs ??

ive found that putting one drop of wd40 at the center of each gear including the 3 on the head and then blowing it off thoroughly with an air compressor will not only eliminate grinding but speed up the exceptor

The best cleaning solution Ive found has been a mixture of simple green and water at a mix of 40/60 thats 40% simple green and 60% water, used in a spray bottle. I tear down the unit completely, all motors, boards, etc off the unit spray the solution, use a toothbrush, then rinse in hot water, then dry using an airhose, since Ive done this, ive never had a problem with any unit, Ive begone to open up the motors to clean the brushes on them and its been working pretty good so far. I DO NOT USE THE SOLUTION ON THE MOTORS, just use a wire brush and very fine steel wool.

for lube, try using Graphite, not too much

usually a noisy bill validator is the cause of the carry motor, when cycling, try cleaning the motor or replacing it.

While any of the above lubes will probably work fine, I use 'servo gear grease'. It's pretty much just white lithium grease, but at least you know for sure it won't harm the nylon gears. Found at any hobby shop for a couple of bucks. I already had some on hand, so that's what I use.

I've never been fond of using graphite on nylon gears. For some reason it just doesn't seem to work well for me. YMMV or course.

I have used the graphite on the rod holding the gear, as far as the gear itself I just clean them because I found that if I use any type of lube on the gears, it gunks it up and I have to clean them again, even when I used the graphite in the shim it still gunks up, I really found that just keeping everything pretty clean works wonders. :3-

.
thanks, just what i was looking for

Since I've been so busy with my WBA 12's lately with the TITO project, I decided to clean the hell out of the gears.  I put a drop of WD-40 on the end of each gear shaft.  HOLY CRAP!  These run twice as fast now.  No sluggishness at all anymore.  A must for anyone that is experiencing slow performance.

Thanks,
Jason

Oh yeah, and by all means order a WBA calibration paper from JCM.  A bit pricey at 16 bucks shipped, but after running a thorough cleaning of the bill/ticket path, the calibration will make a world of difference if you are seeing rejections.  Both of mine run like new now!

Thanks,
Jason

http://www.americangaminginc.com/products/products.asp?ItemId=27030 (http://www.americangaminginc.com/products/products.asp?ItemId=27030)

damm they have a 25.00 min order...... anyone has a calibration paper i can borrow for a day......my wba12 is acting slower lately and getting a few rejections.....

Funny  I seem to never have a problem putting together a 25 dollar order.