PE+ Slant Double Bonus- Not enough Voltage to Large Buttons

[Jim]

Knagl--  I have to agree with you, I believe the front end of the input circuits are messed up. perhaps many of those diodes are shorted or that area of the board is damaged. Hopefully the things I asked Kat to check will shed some light on the problem. the diodes and the resistor packs and the ILQ'S are easy to test with a meter. 

Cherry switch company was a very popular company, one of many that manufactured switches for the electronics field. they made a good switch and sold alot of them. they seemed to be used in gaming and arcade machines.


Jim   

[katilicous]

Hi Guys- Sorry it's taken me so long to respond.  My Chucky Cheese cold got pushy with me for a few days.

Where do I start? So much has happened since your last posts.

Thank you all for the "cheery" switch info, it came in handy a few days ago. (i will get to why in a min)
Knagl-
I'd be more than happy to loan you a board to try a different one for the purpose of testing, before you go and spend money on a replacement board.  (I'd like it back at some point, though.)  Let me know if you'd like to do that..  
Thank you, that is so very cool of you to offer.  Random happenstance, a friend of mine happened to have the same exact PE+ slant top "Bonus Poker" machine.  He was using his coin out as a storage space for mini alcohol bottles so I bought it from him for $100.
 It's a little more than the $58 I spent at auction but this one is packed full of problems and will be a parts machine at best.  He said that it worked fine except it wouldn't take coins or dollars anymore but it when I turned it on the display wasn't working either.  The door sensor looked good (mine is shot) and the buttons, wires and boards were clean so I bought it which has helped narrow down the problem real fast.
But before I get to that I thought I would answer the questions you asked me because I went through my machine via your questions before I had the other PE+ fall in my lap.

Jim-
I am beginning to understand why that machine ended up in a auction--what a surprise.  lol, sometimes I get some really cool things that work (core drill, high end stereo receivers & speakers, appliances ect.) and other times I work for the magic to happen and have awesome luck apparently finding help (thankyou)
when you are testing the voltage on the hold buttons (9.8vdc)  what does it drop to when you push the button? .9 / .9 / .1 / .23 / .27
what is the resistance of the n/o contacts of the deal/draw button and its other loop switches? deal draw dropped from 2.9 to .01  bet max from 2.9 to .01  cash out 2.65 to .06  bet1 2.93 to .03
 
looking on page 86 you will find a simple circuit of the deal switch.  as you look at all the switches you will see the same circuitry is used on all. RP4 (resistor pack 4 510 ohms ,and ILQ1  some use RP3 and a different ILQ1.  and then you have the matrix diodes that are connected to the RP. these can be tested as well. using the ohms scale , set to X20k, black band on diode is the cathode, other side is the anode.  black probe on the cathode, red on anode, observe readings, reverse leads, observe readings. one should be open, the other around 15k ohms. you will see what I mean. did this and also followed this circuit all over both boards coming up with continuity everywhere and the proper readings and values except for the resistance values noted above.

After I bought the brother machine of mine I swapped out the processor board and motherboard and still same problem
After that I swapped the buttons and the wiring harness attached to the buttons and still same problem.
Swapped the harness from the board to button harnesss and still same problem.
Swapped the harness from the fuse panel by self test to jackpot reset and also swapped the black box that sits in the upper cabinet where the florescent bulb is from the bill enabler and this time when I plugged it the bill enabler made a motor sound for the first time (never heard it before so didn't know it was supposed to).  Self test on buttons revealed a 1 on all buttons. YIIIPPPIE!
Now off to find quarters.  Found quarters and played for several hours.  
Tried dollars and dollars are not being acknowledged at all.  I'm gonna look through this site for  some answers here but if you guys have a good suggestion on where to start (post or place) that would be great.

[katilicous]

OK now for the mushy part.  I probably would have given up on my own quite some time ago and never would have gotten to the bottom of the buttons problem.  I don't even think the other machine would have found me because I wouldn't have been even looking for it bc my machine would have been a sad dust collector in my garage.  So thank you, both of you and this lovely forum for being so awesome.  I know you don't look for something in return when you offer your great assistance with these problems but I would like to offer to either of you or someone else on this forum who may need help any of the parts on my new parts machine that you might need.  I have swapped most of it between mine and the other.  Besides the part that was taken out and the bill / coin thing it's pretty good, ugly and messy but great for parts.  So I am serious, it sounds like you both do quite a bit with these so please look at the attached pics and in my Picasa folder http://picasaweb.google.com/myfirstnamekati/PokerIDonTEvenKnowHer?authkey=Gv1sRgCIOu2aXluazruQE&feat=directlink and let me know what you need and I will ship it out to you.
I really can't thank you enough for your patience.

[knagl]

Well, I'm not entirely clear about what part made it start working, but...





I'm thrilled to hear you got it working!


More than likely, your bill validator is disabled.  Press the self test button a few times and you should see a screen that tells you if the validator is disabled or enabled.  If it's disabled, you'll need a SET chip to enable it.  Once you have a SET chip, here are directions on how to enable the thing.

Good work on sticking with it, and good fortune on finding another PE+ slant top cheaply to get parts out of.  Does the monitor from the parts machine work in your now working game?  If so, I think between that and the extra buttons and switches and wires and whatnot, you did very well with your purchase.


As far as wanting something in return for helping, about all I ever ask is that people consider donating a few $$ to the site if you got helpful information here.  The site is funded by Joey, the owner of New Life Games in Bullhead City, AZ.  The hosting bills aren't cheap, and he's not making money by running the site.  Pretty much everything I've learned about slots has been from here, and as such I'm happy to have been able to contribute some cash and some knowledge I've picked up along the way to help keep the site going.  There's a link at the bottom of every page (and in my signature) for the page to donate to the site.  In addition to helping the site sustain itself, you'll also get a nifty "Contributing Member" badge next to your name.

I mean it when I say that I'm thrilled that you got your machine running.  I've been there before with a broken machine, and it's a great feeling when the darn thing starts working.  Congrats, and thanks for keeping us updated.  I hope you enjoy your machine for years to come.