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Author Topic: New to me Bally 5500  (Read 11430 times)
Paladin
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« on: September 07, 2009, 12:49:43 PM »

I decided to buy a local project machine, a 2 coin Bally Double (blazing/flaming?) 7 Jackpot in a roundtop cabinet.  This is my first Bally of this era, and I'm not even sure which system it is.  My other game is an IGT S+.  I'd appreciate help in identifying exactly what I have.

The cabinet (partially apart for cleaning right now) has dates of 1996 all over it, but the board has copyright dates of 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993.  So far I've found that the battery is totally dead, and the fan in the top of the cabinet is pretty much seized up.  

It doesn't look like there's as much info out there on these games compared to the S+, but I've already learned that these things go through batteries.  I like the idea of the remotely mounted 3 AA battery holder with diode trick, and may give that a try.  

Here's a picture of my board, and a closeup of the mains.  Could someone let me know if this is a 5000, 5500 or 6000?


* board1.jpg (158.35 KB, 800x586 - viewed 425 times.)

* mains.jpg (193.25 KB, 800x775 - viewed 406 times.)
« Last Edit: September 08, 2009, 11:58:28 PM by Paladin » Logged
stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #1 on: September 07, 2009, 01:06:45 PM »

Your board looks exactly like mine!
I have a Bally 5500 that I acquired from one of our members recently...
Make sure there's no acidic battery damage in the area on the board around the old battery.
Use the battery pack mod to keep things up
and running once you've finished restoration! yes
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Paladin
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« Reply #2 on: September 07, 2009, 03:03:53 PM »

Sweet!  That's what I was hoping to hear.  So I should be able to perform the clear with the jumper and don't need to buy clear chips. 
Now, if only I could find a 5500 manual Hail
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StatFreak
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« Reply #3 on: September 07, 2009, 03:15:23 PM »

That's odd. A Bally 5500 manual suddenly appeared in the Submit section. I wonder how that happened? Scratch Head 3 Scratch Head 3    Wasn't Me  Tongue Out
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #4 on: September 07, 2009, 04:31:58 PM »

That's odd. A Bally 5500 manual suddenly appeared in the Submit section. I wonder how that happened? Scratch Head 3 Scratch Head 3    Wasn't Me  Tongue Out

Hmm....Magic!        propeller
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« Reply #5 on: September 07, 2009, 04:48:37 PM »

That's odd. A Bally 5500 manual suddenly appeared in the Submit section. I wonder how that happened? Scratch Head 3 Scratch Head 3    Wasn't Me  Tongue Out

Hmm....Magic!        propeller

No, it was the OTHER manual that magically appeared when I posted about half an hour prior to this post. This one got there by some other means.. Scratch Head 2  wave
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« Reply #6 on: September 07, 2009, 05:12:09 PM »

Hmm... your Karma went up too! 

Pictures added below during and after a good cleaning.  There's a block off plate where the bottom coin tray belongs.  Do you think that was put there so the game could be set for credit only use?  The laminate has some chips and skufs, but it's all one piece up and over the game.  I think I'll just leave it.

Damage found so far:
Fan in top of cabinet seized up.  Probably not needed in a home use game right?
One of the small square buttons has every piece but the legend melted or torn up, and another just needs a new clear window piece.
The artwork has started peeling a bit around the edges of the upper glass.
No keys.  Door lock had been drilled, reset and cash box locks still intact and locked. 

Bonus:
I found a $1 bill curled up between the validator transport and housing.



* cleaning1.jpg (145.2 KB, 600x1324 - viewed 437 times.)

* cleaning2.jpg (178.56 KB, 600x1305 - viewed 477 times.)
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StatFreak
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« Reply #7 on: September 07, 2009, 07:30:34 PM »

It looks like you did a great job cleaning it up.  yes propeller propeller

You shouldn't have a problem getting new buttons/legends, a coin tray, and a JP key from our vendors. They will probably have round locks that you could use as well, although you should be able to buy them from a local locksmith. I think that we had a thread dealing with peeling artwork..

<ADD> Here's one: http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=2747.0

Jdkmunch used Rust Oleum: http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=2916.msg25288#msg25288
« Last Edit: September 07, 2009, 07:36:08 PM by StatFreak » Logged

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« Reply #8 on: September 07, 2009, 09:54:16 PM »

Success!!  I went to Radio Shack and picked up AA batteries, a 4 slot battery try and IN4004 diode for less than $7 total.  I removed the battery from the MPU board and soldered in wires that terminate in a quick disconnect that I had.  I then soldered the diode in the 4th battery slot and added the other end of the quick disconnect.  I had some velcro, so I used velcro to attach the battery box to the reel shelf.

I have enough slack wire to be able to pull out the MPU board and move the reset jumper.  If I want to remove the MPU board completely from the game I can just lift the battery tray off the shelf so it stays connected.  The reason I didn't attach the battery tray to the underside of the MPU board was for ease of battery replacement.

Now the game powers up, and if I hit psudo coin I can then spin the reels!  If I shut the door and put a coin in, it passes right through.  The bill validator doesn't feed bills through either.  I guess now it's time to hit the manual.


* battery.jpg (44.07 KB, 600x450 - viewed 488 times.)

* working.jpg (91.18 KB, 600x800 - viewed 469 times.)
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #9 on: September 07, 2009, 10:02:36 PM »

My battery pack has those double sided adhesive tape
and is stuck on top of some chips on the boards....lol
Works good though...
at least it's taped to chips that are soldered to the board
and I don't have to worry if the battery pack is blocking anything... arrow
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Paladin
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« Reply #10 on: September 07, 2009, 10:47:39 PM »

That's a good way to do it.  I was nervous enough just clipping the old battery off and soldering on the new wires.  I didn't want to touch the board any more than I had to!

I just got the machine fully working!  Thanks to the manual, I saw that there's a switch to enable the coin mech.  I flipped the switch, and now the game works!  It even accepted the couple dollar bills I had, although it didn't like the new $20.   I pretty much figured that would be the case, as it's a DBV-145.  I don't have any other bills to try at the moment either.

I also hit a 160 coin win on a 2 coin bet (2 double jackpots with a 5bar inbetween).  That's really funny because I've had my Money Storm for about a month and the best I've hit on it is a 100 coin win (3 triple bars with 2 coins)!

Now I just have to order a few parts to finish it off!
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« Reply #11 on: September 07, 2009, 11:51:33 PM »

I'd shop around for a DVB200 head at the very least...
I don't think they're too, too much...
I don't know the numbers though ...you gotta do a little research..
I would also ask Blueridge...he's an expert on which DBV's go in what... yes
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Paladin
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« Reply #12 on: September 09, 2009, 12:04:53 AM »

Is there a trick to getting the cash box out of this thing?  I drilled the lock, and then saw that the cash box is kept in place with 4 spring loaded cams.  I happened to have some plastic lying around, and found that if I stuck it between the box and the sides of the cavity I could pull out the box.  How do they do it in the casinos, is there a metal tool they slip in there?
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« Reply #13 on: September 09, 2009, 12:11:51 AM »

Yep...they look like this and Slot Machines LTD carries 'em... yes


I used to use a couple of golf cards... Duh!


* Cash box extractor.jpg (29.15 KB, 200x150 - viewed 636 times.)
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Paladin
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« Reply #14 on: September 09, 2009, 12:17:12 AM »

Ah, I thought so!  Thanks for the picture!

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« Reply #15 on: September 09, 2009, 12:20:27 AM »

I attached a link to the vendor that carries these things...

http://www.slotmachinesltd.com/
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« Reply #16 on: September 09, 2009, 05:42:03 AM »

You don't need it, though. Just use an old credit card. A normal-sized credit card is wide enough (when inserted as one would insert the card into an ATM) to push in both latches on one side at the same time. Slip it in on one side and pull the box out slightly. Then while keeping the first side pulled out, repeat the process on the other side. The cash box should then come right out.
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« Reply #17 on: September 09, 2009, 11:26:58 AM »

Another way that's much easier for home use,
is to just leave the cash box out....
tie the switch wires together so the machines MPU
thinks that the cashbox is in it...
then, all you have to do is reach inside the door
and grab your $20 bill after it's accepted by the DBV.
I use the same $20 note time after time....
I wish I could do that in a real casino.... Tongue Out
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« Reply #18 on: September 09, 2009, 10:39:03 PM »



Worked very well too.
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Paladin
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« Reply #19 on: September 16, 2009, 10:50:14 PM »

I just noticed I posted this thread in the video slot forum.  Sorry about that mods, feel free to move it to the reel slot forum!

I just received a coin tray and replacement buttons from Tim - Tradulovich - and put them in.  I also added LED's behind the buttons based on a thread found here.  They look great, although the flash of the camera washes the color out.  I used red for the 'spin' and 'bet max' buttons, and white for the others.
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I haven't met a Jackpot that I didn't like!!!


« Reply #20 on: September 17, 2009, 09:15:43 AM »

I just noticed I posted this thread in the video slot forum.  Sorry about that mods, feel free to move it to the reel slot forum!


Ask and Ye Shall Receive!!!

Machine is looking nice! Just needs a jackpot now!  rotflmao rotflmao rotflmao

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« Reply #21 on: September 17, 2009, 09:40:29 AM »

Yeah it is a very nice looking machine!

 Hail
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