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Author Topic: E2240-121 (non-working)  (Read 7375 times)
deity2
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« on: December 18, 2010, 10:49:10 PM »

all i have are door lights....i did check all 6 fuses on back wall and they're all good, i also replaced battery because it was bad...i don't know where to start...any help would be great....thanks  a lot, bob
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monitorman
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« Reply #1 on: December 18, 2010, 10:58:28 PM »

I don't know that model can you post a picture with the door open.
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StatFreak
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« Reply #2 on: December 18, 2010, 11:03:57 PM »

Moved to Bally Reel Games board.


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deity2
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« Reply #3 on: December 18, 2010, 11:23:56 PM »

i hope this works....let me know if you need different view...thanks bob
 i should tell you it's a 3 reel, 1 line, 5 coin nickel machine thanks again


* Picture 245.jpg (48.6 KB, 640x480 - viewed 363 times.)

* Picture 242.jpg (47.03 KB, 640x480 - viewed 331 times.)
« Last Edit: December 18, 2010, 11:39:42 PM by deity2 » Logged
deity2
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« Reply #4 on: December 19, 2010, 02:33:21 AM »

well after tracing some of the wires i found a loose one....the cooling fan was also unplugged so i figured the last owner unplugged it because of squeaking or something...i was right...i replaced that too...then i find out the coin comparitor had problems so i put a different one of those in too (thank god for the parts machines)....i have a couple final things to do then this one should be done...does anyone know why the lower light of the candle stays on? hopefully somebody had this issue before and can point me in the right direction....ok thanks
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Amachanic
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« Reply #5 on: December 19, 2010, 02:51:07 AM »

Have you checked for power output at the power supply? Its the board mounted on the back wall behind the hopper. There are 3 different voltage outputs to check. They are all DC voltage. The first is 5V at the +5 loop, second is 7.5V at the ZC loop, and third is 10V at the +UR loop. These will be about + or - .5V. Since your fuses check good this is what I would check next.


* power supply.JPG (369.51 KB, 1800x1200 - viewed 327 times.)
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If it's jammed, force it... If it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway...
deity2
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« Reply #6 on: December 19, 2010, 03:05:06 AM »

sweet...i will check that first thing in the morning...thanks so much amachanic....bob
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FOXSSLOTS1
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« Reply #7 on: December 19, 2010, 10:29:06 AM »

lower light (white) means the door is not closed and locked - check the hinge switch
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deity2
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« Reply #8 on: December 19, 2010, 12:58:56 PM »

yes it's the white light...i knew i had the door open code (50.000) and like the other machine you had me adjust hinge switch on i was going to do the same on this one but i didn't know the white light meant the same thing...i guess i should've waited till hinge switch was set before i asked about the light but i wanted to get question asked last night in case it was something more serious....thank again barry for your help and kudos to you....bob
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deity2
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« Reply #9 on: December 20, 2010, 05:06:10 AM »

well i did the dc volt test on the 3 loops...+5 was 4.9   ZC was 6.7 and the UR loop was 9.1..... i checked the door switch to adjust but it seemed to be ok...i took it out and put different switch in and there is no change...the white light is still on as well as the 50. 000 code....any ideas would be greatly appreciated...thanks ....bob
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FOXSSLOTS1
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« Reply #10 on: December 20, 2010, 09:15:42 AM »

can you run any tests?  using the buttons on the hopper?
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Amachanic
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« Reply #11 on: December 20, 2010, 11:45:51 AM »

I had a machine do this same thing once, but I never really found the problem. It just went away one day when I turned it on and it never has come back?? If your door switch is working correctly, then does it have the switch at the door lock? You can check to see if that hinge switch is working by running test 3 through the hopper, or when you close the door does the test stop running? Closing the door should cancell or stop any test you might be running... Your voltages seem OK at the power supply, but the 10V is a bit low. If your get a chance, remove the power supply and check the solder joints around the pins for the plug and the rectifier. I had one machine doing weird things and it was due to bad solder joint on my power supply board. Now I just check ever one I get in first thing...
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If it's jammed, force it... If it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway...
deity2
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« Reply #12 on: December 20, 2010, 01:37:13 PM »

for the heck of it i did try running a test 2 yesterday just to see what would happen and it just kept going even when i shut the door...i finally had to hit reset to stop it....i'll look at the solder joints on it later on today...should i have ran a test 3 and NOT the test 2?    thanks all....bob
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FOXSSLOTS1
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« Reply #13 on: December 20, 2010, 02:09:27 PM »

guess you don't have a manual - the 2 test does keep running - it activates all the IO - if the lights and coils activated then that is a good sign that your boards are somewhat functional -  no sense going on until you get an operations manual so you understand the tests.
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deity2
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« Reply #14 on: December 20, 2010, 02:15:24 PM »

i do have the manual but i don't understand it....i'm not a slot tech and don't pretend to be one, that's why i'm asking questions
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FOXSSLOTS1
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« Reply #15 on: December 20, 2010, 03:48:09 PM »

do the 8 test - meter reads 80 000 - using the coin switch on the door - press down/up quickly - can you pull the handle?  do the reels spin and stop - win meter says?
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deity2
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« Reply #16 on: December 20, 2010, 03:59:26 PM »

i'll do the 8 test as you asked but can you tell me what the 3 test is meant to do..reading the manual doesn't tell me nothing....i was able to play it yesterday when i put coins in it if that's what you want to know (i got the 50 000)(i didn't play till i won, i just wanted to see if it would work)....i'm warming (wood stove)up my shop now and will go out in a while to do the test(s) and tell you results....thanks bob
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« Reply #17 on: December 20, 2010, 06:39:30 PM »

 did I miss something - you started the post saying you had no lights - with the assumption machine was not running - now you say the machine RUNS?   what are you asking? 
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deity2
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« Reply #18 on: December 20, 2010, 08:13:03 PM »

at first i didn't have anything at all just the door lights...then a couple posts later i said i found a loose wire, then the bad cooling fan and finally the coin comparitor or so i thought....the last issue i had to deal with was the code 50 000 but i knew from my other machine that that had to be the door switch....i did NOT know the white light meant the door was open ....i intended to adjust the door switch the next day as i was calling it a night....i was thinking (there you go) that the candle light was a WHOLE different issue and wanted to ask what that was all about so when i went out the next day i would be ready to fix that too...well now we get to today....i still have the code 50 000 AND the white candle light on....i CAN put coins in but after the machine sits for a couple minutes the alarm goes off...i'm assuming that has to do with the door code too....ok that's it...i'm sorry for the confusion
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