Remember, you need 4 wires for a button.
2 for the bulb and 2 for the micro-switch.
MICRO-SWITCH:1st Wire) See the black wire w/red stripe that's doubled up in the other picture?
You need to reconstruct that from the MAX Bet micro-switch.
That goes to the bottom tab of the new micro-switch.
It's for the micro-switch's ground wire.
2nd Wire) The solid yellow wire attached to the bottom open tab of the micro-switch
runs all the way back to the door I/O Molex connector.
You need a wire long enough to go from your new micro-switch back to that Molex,
compete with a female micro-switch tab at one end and a pin at the other end in the
proper pin location on the door I/O Molex housing.
Follow the yellow one on the machine that has this wire configuration,
to determine which pin location on that I/O Molex, is un-occupied.
LIGHTBULB:3rd Wire) The solid red wire is also doubled up at the MAX Bet button
but is the ground wire for the new bulb light.
That's easily doubled-up from the MAX button other bulb tab and runs
to one of the two light bulb tabs.
4th Wire) Same thing here as with the 2nd wire.
This is the hot blue w/tan wire for new bulb's other tab.
It needs to be long enough to go back to the door I/O Molex connector.
Again, follow the other machine that has it already to know
where to put the pin into the connector housing.
Once you have it all together and the settings into the options
correctly configured - you oughta be good to go!
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