RED WHITE & BLUE Problems

[poppo]

Alarm went off when i hit the cash out button.

Just curious. If you toggle the cash/credit button to cash before playing (only use coins for this test) and hit a win, what happens? Does the hopper pay or does it go into hand pay mode?

[Jacell3]

Yes it pays out when it does that..But if i turn that off so it credits and then try to cash out the alarm goes off.

[poppo]

What does option - 'Cash Out Limit <18> Determines the maximum amount of credits that can be cashed out of the hopper.'  display?

[Jacell3]

How do i find that display number?

[poppo]

How do i find that display number?

Use the self test button like you did to get to - Max Hopper Pay <7>

If you look at that PSR sheet, the options will be displayed in the order listed on the sheet.

[Jacell3]

If i did it correctly it says 0000 with the last 0 flashing

[poppo]

If i did it correctly it says 0000

Good. Change it to 1000. Not sure which button you need to use to get the flashing 0 over to the left. The newer SP chips use the reset key to do that. The flashing digit is the one you can change.

[Jacell3]

Works like a dream...Thank you so much...Now i just need to figure out the solenoid problem on the coin diverter

[poppo]

Works like a dream...Thank you so much.

Good. Of course you can change the value (along with hopper limit) to something lower as to not put excessive wear on the hopper or have to keep refilling it if it does not have enough coins for a payout. 

[knagl]

Try hooking up the solenoid again.  It's possible it may be working now -- with the hopper limit set to zero previously, it may have been automatically diverting coins to the drop since it knew that no coins were needed in the hopper.

No guarantees, but it's worth a try.

[Jacell3]

I hooked the solenoid back up and it diverted the coins to the drop..How does the X10 coin comparitor work ? The reason i ask there is no wires hooked up to it any where.

[Jim]

when you pulled out the hopper and closed the door and nothing happened! I was hoping you would insert coins into the machine and see if they are still going to the drop. if so ,with the hopper out of the machine ,that would eliminate it as a possible part of the problem.

I made a mistake when I asked you to look for 10_0, it should have been 10_1 , then advance to the 15_0, when you short the probe to ground the 0 should toggle to a 1

Jim

[Jacell3]

I did pull the hopper out and yes the coins where still falling to the drop..I found the 10_1 and advanced it to 15_0 and grounded it and it did change from the 0 to a 1

[stayouttadabunker]

If the coin hopper probe is grounded, the coin divertor will kick in.
When you close the door and line up the door optics with the handle latch, listen carefully.
You will faintly hear the coin divertor energize and pull on the plastic gate.
Try this with the belly door laying down and watch the divertor solenoid as you close the door!

The 1st and final position of the coin divertor gate is when the
coin hopper is full and the hopper ground probe bolt is grounded.
In other words - the coins dropped through the coin mech will go into the drop hole under the machine.
Here's a short video clip of the coin divertor solenoid in action! >>>

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/nydFUm-njDk&rel=0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/nydFUm-njDk&rel=0</a>

[stayouttadabunker]

Grounding the hopper probe makes the coin divertor operate as well.
When you ground the hopper probe, you ought to see the solenoid
pull on the plastic divertor gate.

If grounding the probe doesn't activate the divertor, then something is wrong with the hopper probe ground wire.
Search around the connector area of that harness to see if there's any break in the wiring.
It doesn't hurt to check for continuity with a multi meter to see if the wire's okay too!
Check the light blue or light green plastic cam on the divertor that attaches to the solenoid too.
It may be cracked?

[poppo]

If there's only a few handfuls of coins in the hopper, the coin divertor will kick in.

Huh? Maybe I'm missing something, but my divertor does not change states as the door is open or closed (I have a bypass so I can watch it). When the solenoid engages, (pulls up) then the coins go to the drop and not the hopper. A low number of coins would/should not make the divertor kick in. Only a full hopper would. That is the whole purpose of the probe.

Maybe I am misunderstanding what you mean by 'kick in'. the normal state of the divertor is the solenoid off (i.e. plunger down, just like when power is off). It should stay that way unless the probe is shorted and then it pulls in.

He already did an input test, so we know the probe sensor is working. For some reason his solenoid is engaging when it should not.

When he unplugs the solenoid it works ok. So either his MPU has an output problem, or there is a short somewhere going to the solenoid engaging it.

[stayouttadabunker]

Whoops thanks poppo!
I'll edit the previous posts. thank you.
I'll make a new video of the hopper probe being grounded then...lol
You think his hopper probe is shorted out somewhere in the line?
Or a possible stuck/bad triac on the MPU?

[poppo]

You think his hopper probe is shorted out somewhere in the line?
Or a possible stuck/bad triac on the MPU?

All of these ninja edits.

As noted, his probe input test passed, so either the MPU, or something in the line to the solenoid.

Personally, unless he has a drop hole in his cabinet or plans to have an overfull hopper, I would just leave the solenoid disconnected. Sometimes trying to find a wire issue results in more problems. He could swap MPUs with his other machine, but then he will have to mess with clearing errors, settings etc. and I don't know if he has a SET chip to turn the BV back on. .

[Jacell3]

poppo --- is there any kind of test i can do that will check either of those problems .

[stayouttadabunker]

Try dropping a coin in with no hopper in the machine as Jim suggested?
That would eliminate the problem residing at the hopper probe wire on the hopper area.
The problem will be elsewhere such as in the hopper probe wire from the
hopper connector to the motherboard or on the MPU itself.
You're trying the pinpoint the probe grounding problem exactly.
Of course if you win when playing the one credit, you'll have to put back the hopper in to erase the error.

Here's the hopper probe test watching the coin divertor solenoid and gate.
Remember, the divertor doesn't change position until after one complete game is played.>>>

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/o6mTULXZiVo&rel=0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/o6mTULXZiVo&rel=0</a>

[Jim]

If you want to get adventurous and check out the board: then, the two active components that put a ground on the diverter are U-16 (MOC3031) and Q-17 (MAC3030).  U-15-17 are the same as U-16  to compare resistance values.  Q-16-18 are the same as Q-17  to compare resistance values. 

U-16, pins 1&2 are inputs , PINS 4&6 ARE THE OUTPUTS

REVERSE BIAS ALL THE JUNCTIONS  and see which one is different, since 15/17 are good there resistance should be similar to 16
same applies to 17       16 18 should be good     

hopefully you will find something wrong with Q-17 and its associated circuitry, if not then a ground is being put on that line somewhere between the motherboard and the plug.
another way to eliminate the board: WITH THE POWER OFF, open door , unplug diverter, check each pin of the plug to chassis ground. then with the meter still hooked up , remove the board and see if the ground goes away. if it does then the problem is in the board, if not then your problem is elsewhere.

Jim

All these tests are preformed with the board out of the machine, no power applied, just resistance comparison tests.   

[poppo]

If you want to get adventurous.....

Which can often lead to   

... if not then a ground is being put on that line somewhere between the motherboard and the plug.

I wonder if he powered up the machine wiithout the MPU, if a shorted line between the MPU and solenoid would make it engage.

[Jacell3]

Ok i did the test when i pulled the board my grounding problem went away.....On Q17 all three legs show a reading but on Q18 and 16 just the outter legs show a reading

[Jim]

If you have soldering equipment:  remove Q-17   sounds as if it is shorted.   you could remove 16 or 18 and put one of those into 17 and see if that fixes your problem. then order one and put it in the one you borrowed.

one other thing, I would test the bridge rectifier on the solenoid and make sure its not bad. probably a coin fell behind the cc and wedged itself in and around the diverter and took out 17. 

Jim

If you do soldering, the pads on these boards don't like excessive heat or pressure, so....be careful or you could end up having to do more repairs.

[Jacell3]

I will give it a shot and check for a coin behind the cc..Thank you so much