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| | |-+  Noobie needs some help.
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Author Topic: Noobie needs some help.  (Read 19028 times)
fireman216
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« on: December 29, 2010, 05:24:31 PM »

I need some help with this machine.  I think it is a S+?  I have no info on it and bought it yesterday.  I can't find a manual anywhere on the net for it and want to make sure I am searching for the right one.  Also the coin comparitor or something is not working.  I have the quarter in the slot for ident. The red light on the case does not light and the coin falls straight to the tray.  on the + pin I have 1v, but if I plug half the pins in it jumps to 24, and all the pins inn it drops to 0v.  So my mind tells me the board is bad?  With the cover removed I can see 1/2 the board is dark brown like a "burnt state".  The cove does not have any info on it but the ser# which is 830609 but no voltage model # or any other helpful info.  If anybody can tell me a part # that would be great, my guess is a cc-16?  Also I want a bill validater but don't know what I need, eeprom for flash (I have no idea what these mean) but I want to know so I can get the right stuff.  From everything I have read on here so far you guys are great and VERY helpful!!  Thanks for any info you can provide as I am lost!! Well I can't get all the pics on here, it is a bally/igt double cherry machine.  If you need any info I will post asap.


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slots4home
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« Reply #1 on: December 29, 2010, 06:20:01 PM »

Is their any codes on the display?
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #2 on: December 29, 2010, 06:31:19 PM »

There's a 2-pin wire coming out of the top.
If they're gray - it's a 24volt coin comparator is that's what your S+ uses.
If they're green, it's the wrong one as it will be a 13 volt coin mech.
See the little hole with the arrow?
That's the coin sensitivity dial.
Turn it fully counter-clockwise to the left then turn it a quarter of a turn clockwise.
Install it back into the machine with the power off and
close the door with the latch handle fully downwards.
Drop some coins and report back here with details!

Remember, the more you tell us - the more we'll tell you!
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knagl
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« Reply #3 on: December 29, 2010, 06:51:42 PM »

Keep in mind that you won't see the light on the comparator come on unless the machine sees the main door as closed.
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kforeman
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« Reply #4 on: December 29, 2010, 10:00:38 PM »

regarding the bill validator...it looks like a JCM WBA housing in your pic so you should need a WBA-12-SS transport and head.  i'm sure you can find a vendor link at the top of this page who can hook you up. propeller

what on the machine does work?  are your flouro's on?  7-seg display reading anything?  hopper test function?  anything?  Scratch Head

i need data!!!!!!!!   Please Post Pictures   Please Post Pictures  seriously though when you can put more pics up it will probably help your troubleshooting assistants (us) find what is incorrect or missing entirely in your machine.  old, used slot machines are often picked through pretty well for parts, especially if you get em cheap, so there may be harnesses, connectors, the bill acceptor  Tongue Out , fuses, circuit boards, etc. missing from your machine.  also i concur with stayouttadabunker...looks like an S+ model IGT machine.  i don't remember much about them but there are plenty of very knowledgeable members that will be able to help figure your problems out.  everyone always asks what software you are running so you should probably take a pic of your MPU board and chips as well.  yes

welcome to NLG!!  waving flag waving flag waving flag waving flag
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Now You're Techin'!!!
stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #5 on: December 29, 2010, 11:01:25 PM »

Where do these two red wires lead to?   Sherlock Smiley Scratch Head 3 >>>


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fireman216
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« Reply #6 on: December 30, 2010, 02:01:28 AM »

I am going to try the coin mech in a min, no codes so that is good.  everything else works on the machine as far as I know, under the coin optic there is a little white button, when I push that the machine credits and everything works, when I close the door and reach through the front glass and push the button noting happens, but I feel this is normal.  here is the two pics I can post this timem the two red wires as u can see in the pic go to two AA bats that are hooked to the board.  If you want a pic of the inside I will do.  I wrote down the chip info, c35 game prom is sp1048 and c36 reel prom is 3411. 


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fireman216
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« Reply #7 on: December 30, 2010, 02:13:40 AM »

I turned counterclockwise and back 1/4 powerd on, closed the door reels reset put some 1/4s through but just dropped straight through.  And here are more pics.  Like I said 1/2 the board is dark brown like it is burnt.  Also I see pics with a white button next to the power switch, I do not have that button, do I use my jackpot reset key in its place?


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fireman216
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« Reply #8 on: December 30, 2010, 02:19:23 AM »

And some more pics.


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fireman216
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« Reply #9 on: December 30, 2010, 02:33:11 AM »

One of the board chips and one where the batt wires are soldered.


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brichter
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« Reply #10 on: December 30, 2010, 02:36:21 AM »

I turned counterclockwise and back 1/4 powerd on, closed the door reels reset put some 1/4s through but just dropped straight through.  And here are more pics.  Like I said 1/2 the board is dark brown like it is burnt.  Also I see pics with a white button next to the power switch, I do not have that button, do I use my jackpot reset key in its place?

It's right behind the power switch, mounted on the back of the power switch enclosure. Reach your left index finger around the back and your finger will be on the self-test button. yes
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Thanks,
Bill
fireman216
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« Reply #11 on: December 30, 2010, 02:40:55 AM »

Found it Thanks!!!
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« Reply #12 on: December 30, 2010, 04:43:56 AM »

Your coin comparitor looks like a cc-16-d 100 rev. f. The capacitor on the board is the most common problem with those comparitors, the capacitor is the long cylindrical part positioned vertically on the board. A good shop can replace the capacitor, otherwise you may need to get another one. The capacitor is usually a 220uf 35v Axial Capacitor.
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fireman216
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« Reply #13 on: December 30, 2010, 11:05:48 AM »

Is there a way to test it?  If it was a diode I would just jump it to check but never messed with a capacitor. American Flag  Nevermind, I just looked it up and I might try this eve.  Will let you know what I find out.
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uniman
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« Reply #14 on: December 30, 2010, 12:29:17 PM »

Hey guys, how many wires are connected to the S+ CC-16 ??
I see five wires connected in the above pic and that seems at least one too many. But I'm the Universal guy, not IGT.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #15 on: December 30, 2010, 01:08:34 PM »

The wiring is right Uniman ( 3 wires on the harness and the red loopback)
but the soldering job is terrible on the pins!
Someone didn't know how to take the pins out when they broke the wires off of them.
So they soldered the wires to the pins while the pins were still in the plastic housing!  rotflmao

I would suggest a new coin comparator harness and a new coin comparator at this time.
Placing an ad in the "Classifieds" section of NLG for these parts ought to do the trick.
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fireman216
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« Reply #16 on: December 30, 2010, 01:23:37 PM »

I'm guessing this is a winner?INDIVIDUAL WBA SS CASH HANDLING PARTS.

 


TRANSPORT UNIT WITH HEAD:  WE CARRY USED SS-12 THESE WILL ACCEPT NEW100's 20's BIG HEAD 5's AND OLD BILLS ALL 4 WAYS, EVEN UPSIDE DOWN!

Item Name: WBA SS-12 DBV UPDATED FOR NEW 20'S
Item Number: SS-12 DBV
Price: $100.00
   JCM WBA SS-12 DBV

             
 

 

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fireman216
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« Reply #17 on: December 30, 2010, 01:50:11 PM »

Yes the solidering sucks!  I did not do it as it came this way.  I did a continuity test on all pins and all worked if you can imagine! 
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« Reply #18 on: December 30, 2010, 02:26:57 PM »

I'm guessing this is a winner?INDIVIDUAL WBA SS CASH HANDLING PARTS.

 


TRANSPORT UNIT WITH HEAD:  WE CARRY USED SS-12 THESE WILL ACCEPT NEW100's 20's BIG HEAD 5's AND OLD BILLS ALL 4 WAYS, EVEN UPSIDE DOWN!

Item Name: WBA SS-12 DBV UPDATED FOR NEW 20'S
Item Number: SS-12 DBV
Price: $100.00
   JCM WBA SS-12 DBV

             
 

 



There's a couple of issues in regards to installing a WBA-12 BV in your machine.  #1, it appears to be missing the power supply.  It's normally mounted to the on the left side of the bill validator frame.  #2, your connector on the rear of the frame is for a WBA-10/11 BV.  You'll need to replace it too.  Lastly, made sure that you get a BV transport with the proper protocol ID for your machine.  S+ should be ID022/023
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fireman216
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« Reply #19 on: December 30, 2010, 08:43:40 PM »

Isn't it funny what you learn when you read what is right in front of you?  Do you think this has something to do with it not accepting coins, or does it not matter if you have an american coin in it.  Or do I need to find a Canadian coin and try?  Why would you reject an american quarter anyway? Look down at next post for pic I forgot it.
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fireman216
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« Reply #20 on: December 30, 2010, 08:45:48 PM »

Here is the pic.


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Buzz
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« Reply #21 on: December 30, 2010, 09:27:40 PM »

Isn't it funny what you learn when you read what is right in front of you?  Do you think this has something to do with it not accepting coins, or does it not matter if you have an american coin in it.  Or do I need to find a Canadian coin and try?  Why would you reject an american quarter anyway? Look down at next post for pic I forgot it.


If you have a American coin as a sample coin in the comparator, you must use American coins.
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« Reply #22 on: December 30, 2010, 09:39:54 PM »

The S+ has 3 line coming from the machine to the comparitor, but there is a jumper wire on the plug making it look like 5.
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fireman216
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« Reply #23 on: December 30, 2010, 09:44:18 PM »

Well I guess thats not it, I pulled out the circuit board so I could see the light when the door is closed and it is on now, but still rejecting coins.  STUMPED spam
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« Reply #24 on: December 30, 2010, 10:12:05 PM »

If the capacitor is bad, the red light will still light up, but it will reject coin still. change the capacitor and it should fix the problem.
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