IGT S+ accepts all coins as credits

[WELLMAN]

Yours has the blue volume knob on top?
If so, it's a 10MHz board.
Those without - are 16MHz.

Thanks

[stayouttadabunker]

You're welcome.
If you look closely at the crystals...you'll see the MHz number printed on them.
There's usually at least two silver crystals on an MPU board.

[Jim]

with the door closed and ready to play: measure the ac voltage at the cc plug. put the leads on the black and yellow wires. you should read 24vac.

Have you inspected and looked at all the plugs and wiring on the cc? if you bang on the cc while it is ready , does the led come on and go off?
 have you removed the four screws and taken off the cover to the cc and checked the voltage across C-1.  its a DC voltage. 19vdc.

I still think you cc is toast.
Good luck in your endeavors!

Jim

[WELLMAN]

with the door closed and ready to play: measure the ac voltage at the cc plug. put the leads on the black and yellow wires. you should read 24vac.

Have you inspected and looked at all the plugs and wiring on the cc? if you bang on the cc while it is ready , does the led come on and go off?
 have you removed the four screws and taken off the cover to the cc and checked the voltage across C-1.  its a DC voltage. 19vdc.

I still think you cc is toast.
Good luck in your endeavors!

Jim

I've inspected the wires and plugs.  black and yellow = 26vac.  Bang on the cc produces no action from the led.  As far as c-1 I'm not sure waht you mean by across c-1 but with one lead on c-1 and one on a ground I get 8vdc.

[Jim]

C-1  is the large electroltic cap mounted on the cc board. its the largest cap on the board. across it  means: one lead on the minus side of the cap (black lead), the other side on the Plus side of the cap (red lead).  you should measure 19 vdc .  If not then the cap is bad, or some thing is pulling down the 19vdc.

That cap going bad is a very common problem with that unit.  I think you may have found your problem.


Jim

[stayouttadabunker]

There's so many revisions of that board Jim.
Are the caps the same specs for these boards?
I'm thinking of picking up a few caps to see if I can get some life back into them.
I have a few S+ 16D CC's with acceptance problems.
 

[Buzz]

There's so many revisions of that board Jim.
Are the caps the same specs for these boards?
I'm thinking of picking up a few caps to see if I can get some life back into them.
I have a few S+ 16D CC's with acceptance problems.
 

Bunker every one I've looked at were 220uf 35V

[stayouttadabunker]

Yes...I agree with you Buzz...
I just ordered a few caps to try on some of my old ones.
Thanks for helping me verify it! 

[stayouttadabunker]

That's strange that they would leave out the "C1" on this list though...>>>

http://www.happcontrols.com/gaming/coin_comp/63011000.htm

Look at the price for the test stand.... >>>

http://www.happcontrols.com/gaming/coin_comp/35049900.htm

[Buzz]

Bunker All of them on ebay have the leads coming out of one end.  They will work, just not as pretty looking as the ones with the leads out of each end. I bought 25 with shipping for eight bucks. I managed to get 4 out of 8 working.

[stayouttadabunker]

That's pretty good work Buzz! 
That's 4 CC's you don't have to throw in the trash! 

[StatFreak]

That's pretty good work Buzz! 
That's 4 CC's you don't have to throw in the trash! 

Don't count out the other four yet.. 

Buzz has a knack for fixing things.

[Buzz]

Mark  I have a system, first time one won't work I use a Sharpie and put a ? mark on it. Second time it doesn't work I mark it BAD, third time I mark it NFG.  But I still won't S**t can it, maybe a magic cure will be discovered!!

[stayouttadabunker]

haha! I've seen those initials before...