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Author Topic: S+ Reel Dead - Board Repair Opinions Needed  (Read 13558 times)
modessitt
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« on: January 03, 2011, 07:46:15 PM »

I've got a Haywire slot with a dead Reel 1 (41 error).  Swapping the connectors between Reel 1 and Reel 2 gives the same error, and the previously dead reel starts working while the previously working reel goes dead.

I have verified I have no voltage at the reel connector for the motor.  Traced good continuity back to the processor board.

The board in question is a 75505704 Rev A 1894 GTC.

I traced back through the schematics to U10, and have found a short between pin 3 (voltage output to the reel) and pin 9 (ground).  Compared to the identical chips around it at U1, U2, and U11, this is not supposed to be there.

Do I sound like I'm on the right track?  I'm thinking I can replace U10 to fix my issue.  Perhaps I should swap it with U2 first to see if my problem moves to Reel 2 (socketed of course)?  If so, then I know for sure the chip is bad.

Any ideas on where to find a replacement for this?  The number is SAA1042V.  I see nothing on Digikey or Mouser, and no NTE cross reference.

Thanks for your help....
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StatFreak
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« Reply #1 on: January 03, 2011, 10:39:20 PM »

Consider that you can buy a replacement S+ MPU board for about $20, give or take.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2011, 02:50:03 AM »

I have a whole bunch of dead boards...
I will look in the morning for your IC, modessitt !!
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StatFreak
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« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2011, 07:33:36 AM »

I have a whole bunch of dead boards...
I will look in the morning for your IC, modessitt !!

That works, too - if it turns out to be the problem.  Tongue Out propeller propeller
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modessitt
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« Reply #4 on: January 04, 2011, 11:48:38 AM »

Thanks.  Let me know...
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Jim
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« Reply #5 on: January 04, 2011, 01:29:51 PM »

According to the IGT repair manual    page 41  one motor is non functional     you are on the right track...    however IGT states that they have used two versions of the chip in question.   The SAA1042A (WHICH they say is obsolete)  requires two shunt diodes on the output.  one of the diodes is connected to pin 3 and the other end of that diode is connected to ground. this diode could be shorted, and causing your problem.  the schematics do not call out a number for this diode, so if it is there then the only way to find it would be to trace it. the other diode is connected to pin 6. 
 Pin 9 on that chip is ground.  see data sheet  http://cs.utsource.net/goods_files/pdf/56/5627_MOTOROLA_SAA1042.pdf

If you google the part number it shows IC PLUS,INC having theses available.  IGT replacement number for this is  TY40477SAA-1042V
I would check the shunt diodes first.
Jim 
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modessitt
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« Reply #6 on: January 04, 2011, 01:40:09 PM »

Ok, I swapped U10 with U2 and it changes to a 42 error, so it is verified that the chip that was at U10 is bad, and is my problem.  It also measured bad out of the board.

And IC-Plus has a $250 minimum order...
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« Reply #7 on: January 04, 2011, 02:20:48 PM »

You can probably get a new working board from Ebay for about $20
You could also start a new thread in the classifieds and offer to buy peoples dead S+ boards for the cost of shipping.
Jameco and Mouser sell ICs - not sure if they carry what you are looking for - no min purchase.

hope this helps.
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #8 on: January 04, 2011, 02:37:53 PM »

Oh crap...I see it now.
It's a 16-pin chip using 12 pins with 4 legs folded up in the air right?
I hate taking those bloody things out.
Too much heat.
Can I send you one with the legs cut at the base of the board to try out?
It will end up sitting flat on the board but it should be okay right?

Nah..that won't work.
Why don't I just send you one of my dead boards...
You'll have all the extra chips you'll ever need....lol
I wish they had sockets for them suckers.
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reho33
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« Reply #9 on: January 04, 2011, 02:46:51 PM »

Never thought of that........ rebuilding S+ boards. We might have to as resources dry up in the future...........pain in the ass though.
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modessitt
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« Reply #10 on: January 04, 2011, 06:47:25 PM »

Well, let me ask you this:  It appears from the schematics that the chips for each reel would be:

U10 - Reel 1
U2 - Reel 2
U11 - Reel 3
U1 - Reel 4 (optional)
U3 - Reel 5 (optional)

Does that sound right?  U3 is an empty socket on my board, but U1 is populated.  Since this is a 3-reel machine, couldn't I just pull the chip from U1 to use for my bad reel?
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #11 on: January 04, 2011, 07:17:29 PM »

I don't see why not...the board is screwed anyways.
Plus, your 3 coin SP chip won't be searching for a 4th reel.
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modessitt
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« Reply #12 on: January 04, 2011, 07:19:10 PM »

Thanks.  Got impatient and tried it - and I'm now up and working with all 3 reels.  I'll go ahead and add a label mentioning that it won't work with a 4th or 5th reel without those chips...
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #13 on: January 04, 2011, 07:27:56 PM »

Cool!  Cool Thumbs-Up
Glad to see you got it working!
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knagl
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« Reply #14 on: January 04, 2011, 08:58:56 PM »

Very impressive.  Thanks (and your first K+) for posting your experience!   applause
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« Reply #15 on: January 04, 2011, 09:51:36 PM »

Not many 4 & 5 wheel games out there so this is a good fix to note for the future - thanks for your posting and welcome to NLG.
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StatFreak
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« Reply #16 on: January 04, 2011, 11:43:29 PM »

As reho33 said, this knowledge will become more useful over time as the S+ boards become harder to find, although they are pletiful now.

 +1 (Karma, or whatever) K+ modessitt for persisting and figuring out a technical solution. applause
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modessitt
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« Reply #17 on: January 05, 2011, 12:12:44 PM »

Thanks guys.  I work as an arcade repair tech and am big on the KLOV forums, where I typically document fixes for future searchers - and myself when I forget the details later - so I didn't even think twice about it.

I don't do a lot of slot repair, but we have customers who keep them in their homes and sometimes need help.  I made the mistake of fixing one once, and now my boss thinks I can fix all of them.  I fixed an EM slot just before Xmas that wouldn't pay out (misadjusted handle switch), did this S+ with a dead reel this week (and now get to try to figure out a free play hack utilizing the coin comparator button), and as a reward I get to look at an old mechanical Mills today that basically needs to be gone through, cleaned and lubricated.

At least I was able to get good schematic this time.  Usually I'm sitting here trying to figure out something with no documentation because apparently if I know what each blade closure on an EM payout stepper unit does, I can go out and rip off Vegas...   Scratch Head
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coorslight115
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« Reply #18 on: July 25, 2011, 11:24:55 PM »

I am in the same boat and need a TY40477saa or SAA1042v chip...Anyone find a reasonable source??

Or Bunker you can send me one of those trash boards you have for me to steal it from  Cry Laughing Cry Laughing

Trying to get a fellow member up and running from a code 43, dead reel
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #19 on: July 26, 2011, 01:48:22 AM »

lol  remind me because I never sent Modesitt anything...lol I had totally forgotten all about it!  Duh!

Anyways, I've changed that chip a few times before and didn't like the amount of heat I shot at the pins trying to get the sucker out.
I later found an easier way by just cutting the legs off at the base and sticking it into a socket instead.
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poppo
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« Reply #20 on: July 26, 2011, 01:54:16 AM »

Of course it helps when you have a rework station.  yes I have one like this.


* rework.jpg (47.88 KB, 800x560 - viewed 310 times.)
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #21 on: July 26, 2011, 02:14:49 AM »

ooh... cool toyz!  Cool Thumbs-Up  yes
I better get my boss to get me some better equipment...lol
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poppo
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« Reply #22 on: July 26, 2011, 02:16:51 AM »

Yes, put away the Weller.  rotflmao


* weller.jpg (8.69 KB, 377x246 - viewed 293 times.)
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modessitt
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« Reply #23 on: July 26, 2011, 02:56:58 AM »

A regular soldering iron (40w) and soldapult will get it out just fine, then you can socket and replace. Of course, I have a rework station, too.



To who asked for the part - if you have a 3-reel machine, yours probably has an extra chip on it for the 4th (and maybe 5th) reel that is not used, and you can move that chip to the spot you need it.  I posted that info above somewhere.

Channelmanic had some of these chips, and sent me two after I didn't need them anymore, but I'd have a hell of a time laying my hands on them at the moment...
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StatFreak
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« Reply #24 on: July 26, 2011, 03:11:28 AM »

Bunker, you can buy a rework station from China fairly inexpensively. No guarantees of how long it will last, though.  Duh!


It's funny how things change. I didn't know about these stepper motor driver chips when I last posted in this thread. Since then, I did some research while trying to help Buzz get his 5-reel up and running.

The scoop is that the original TY40477's are discontinued. There is either a company in China making a replacement or it's all NOS, but all direct resources I could find were wholesalers requiring large minimum purchases. The one site I found that would have probably sold them to me as an individual required a minimum line item order of 300. That means that you can't even buy 50 of these and round out the order with something else.

They are being sold new on eBay for $15 a piece. It's a seller's market.

Given the price of S+ MPU boards, it's much less expensive to cannibalize a board for these chips. The cool part is that very few of us will ever use a 4th reel on an S+ and all of these boards have four of these chips. Only the 5th is an empty pair of sockets (oddly, the middle pins of this chip aren't used -- it's in the data sheet specs)

The unneeded chip that controls the fourth reel is in location U1. It's the one that's by itself, without a second chip end to end below it.



Stat garfield

<ADD> Modessitt, I didn't see your post as we were posting at the same time.
« Last Edit: July 26, 2011, 03:34:59 AM by StatFreak » Logged

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