S2000 Door Harness Connections

[reho33]

I recently had to disassemble my S2000 to transport it to a neighbor's house for some party fun. When it was reassembled, the belly and door lights did not light up and the door is not sensing that it is closed. I bought a new power supply and installed it today with the same results. In my S2000, a 10 and a 12 pin molex go to the backplane so they are logical connections. Then there are two 2 pin molexes where one is black colored and one white, these are also logical and obvious connections, That leaves the molexes in the photo and in addition there is no voltage to the ballast in the photo. So I guess what I am asking is if I mis-connected a molex or just left one un-connected. The other photo shows 2 that should be connected together but have no voltage and when connected, make no difference. I already checked the backplane to the power supply and it is OK. Could someone please check theirs to see if I just have wires not connected correctly. Symptoms again are : no belly or reel lights and door does not sense it is closed. (sensors already adjusted but no effect).

[Tilt]

I think the connector you need for your lights is buried behind the big wire bundle.  Follow the arrows on the picture. 

[Tilt]

For your open door problem, did you check the belly door switch?  (or loop plug if it doesn't have one).  It'll give you a Door Open M error message too if not closed or looped.

[Foster]

Is that an actual s2000 or was it a vision or vision ready?
I cant find those connectors anywhere in my machine
they may have been there when it had the vision ready harnesses.

[reho33]

Tilt, you were right! I found the "hidden" Molex and now the belly and reel are lit! Thanks but still need to clear game and get it working. Stay Tuned!!

[stayouttadabunker]

I'm happy you're making progress reho!
Now, stop hiding them Molexes....you need them
to make things work!  lol

Hey! What kinda game is in it?

[reho33]

Tabasco 3CM BTW I still can't get the door optics to show "closed" I think there is a thread on permanent bypass for this? I hate optics anyway. I checked for continuity and the optics wiring does pass.

[Foster]

The optics are easy it takes one wire to complete the optics signal
If you use the cherry switch that is already there for the work light
The cherry switch is Double Pole Double Throw
You can also text things with door open by pulling out on the switch.
Green wire going to cabinet optic and red with white stripe in door connect them together door shows closed
Note the the wire needed at each connector happens to be at the arrow or pointed side of the connector.

[stayouttadabunker]

Here's my old drawing from last year>>>

[Foster]

I just looked at the retired Vision ready main and door harness looking for 3/16 female connectors that connect to the cherry switch.

Reho it looks like you have a vision or ready machine.

[Tilt]

Well that's progress, at least you can see better now    The other two wire female molex with the dual set of ora/blk wires actually belongs on connector cutout going to the top box.  They should have 24VDC on them now that you got them plugged into the source now too.  You might want to put it in there, or tape over it so you don't accidentally do that again sometime.

I have a drawing of the optic wiring I can send you if you need it.

[reho33]

Ok, the machine will not sense that the main door is closed. I wired the cherry switch as per above and even used test leads in both directions to check but the machine will not sense the door is closed. Where do we go from here?

[Foster]

I would double check all your connections to the motherboard and make sure the mpu is fully seated.
When I was working on the machine I got a reel 3 tilt and pushed the mpu in and the tilt was able to clear.
also make sure you didnt accidently disconnect one of the 8 or 6 pin connectors at the motherboard.
Door LED Optic shares connector with speaker (J19) 6 pin
There is another 8 pin connector (J11) that has the Cabinet Detector and JP reset key

[stayouttadabunker]

Now that you have the cherry switch installed on the optic wires, it should sense that
the circuit is either open or closed depending on the position of the plunger on the cherry switch.
Basically that's all the cherry switch is doing.

There has to be a bad connection somewhere back on those lines.
I had a PE+ that wouldn't see that the door was closed.
It uses door optics very similar to the S+ and S2000's.
I was scratching my head wondering what was wrong.
I even changed MPU's to see if the MPU had a problem.
Nope, that wasn't it, swapped it back to the old MPU and
changed out the optics to known good optics and it still couldn't
see that the door was closed.  

So, I follow the two optic wires all the way back to the backplane motherboard and
found that it was a loose connector back there. 

To this day, I don't know how it got loose but I've never had the door open error again.
I'm sure that I must of accidentally pulled it partially off somehow but
it happened so quickly - I never noticed.
It probably happened as I was tye-wrapping back up the wires somehow...

[reho33]

Thanks for all the help so far......yes I will have to break out the "fox and Hound" (Stat would know what this is) and trace. Will keep you informed.

[Jim]

from the connector at J-11 pins 1 and 2   its a straight shot to the connector for the optic. pin 1= green wire, pin 2 = violet wire.

from the connector at J-19 pins 3 and 4   its a straight shot to the connector for the optic for one wire. red/ white tracer.   the second wire takes a different path.  it goes to the belly door switch first and then onto the optic connector.      pin 3= green wire from J-19 to J-455/P455  comes out of that connector as a green/blue wire which goes to the optic connector.   pin 4 =red/ white tracer wire.

Jim

[brichter]

Thanks for all the help so far......yes I will have to break out the "fox and Hound" (Stat would know what this is) and trace. Will keep you informed.

Make sure you disconnect the harness at both ends or the signal from the F&H will feed back into other wires and you'll start pulling hair out...     

[reho33]

Ok, works well, all done. Turns out that I just had to re-seat connectors on the backplane as suggested and then the machine responded, no optics!  In addition, I used Anderson Power Poles to connect the wires to the cherry switch so that if I need to remove the door in the future, it will be a painless process. See the pic below! Partial dis-assembly is sometimes an option if a machine has to be moved and there are no lifts or hand trucks available. It also insures that you keep your glass and parts in 1 piece and not risk breakage. Or if you have to place the machine in an odd place and it would not be practical or possible to truck the machine (Winding stairs, walkup apartments, etc.)

[stayouttadabunker]

"Anderson Power Poles"  
Hmm...I've never heard of that.
I'll have to check it out!  


Here's a link to the Fox & Hound manual...>>>
Watch S2000 Vision owners flip out over that one later on...

[slot monkey]

reho, great to hear that everything is back to working condition.

Stat, thanks for the fox and hound links, something else to put on my shopping list.

[reho33]

You would use the Fox and Hound to find a wire in a bundle of wires and isolate it to repair it. Seems to me that it would prove invaluable in a situation where you had to find a bad wire, etc.

[Yoeddy1]

Great to hear you got it goin Reed!