IGT S+ coin to credit problem

[John0813]

I just picked up an old IGT Double Diamond machine, manufactured in Jan 1991. (Is it an S or S+???) It does not have a bill validator, only a quarter slot. The machine starts up ok, the reels spin, but when I put quarters in, they do not register as credits, they just drop into the hopper. Any ideas on how to correct this problem are appreciated.

Thanks.

[poppo]

they do not register as credits, they just drop into the hopper.

First we need to clarify that you do mean the hopper and not the tray. If so, that means the coin comparitor is working or the rake has been tied back. First try opening the door and pressing the little white button on the coin optics board. That should register a credit that you can play with the door open. If that works put another credit on it the same way and close and latch the door. The credit sholuld go away (meaning your door optics are working). If all of that is working then you may have a bad coin optics board. You can use the self test mode to check the coin optics.

[John0813]

The coins are dropping into the hopper.
When I push the white optics button, nothing happens..the COINS PLAYED display stays at Zero 0.

[poppo]

Check that plug on the optics board (re-seat it). Do you have another optics board you can swap?

[John0813]

I re-seated the board...still getting just a Zero dsplayed.

I have another IGT board..a little different in design....do you think it would work.???..I do not know if they are generic?

Thanks

[poppo]

I'm not sure if all of the optics boards are interchangable. But try re-seating the MPU and all of the other cables on the motherboard. Also can you get into the self test mode?

[Jim]

lets find out what type machine you have .  if the board is mounted in the rear, and has three plugs on it then iti s a S model.   if the board is on the left side and is mounted on removeable tray then it is a S+.

what type do you have?


Jim   

[stayouttadabunker]

A single photo of these boards you have - would work wonders....

[John0813]

Here are photos of the machine's inside and Coin Comparitor

[John0813]

Here is a photo of the possible replacement.....

Do you think it will work??  Any ideas are appreciated...

[poppo]

Someone else will have to chime in whether or not the coin optics boards are interchangeable. I would not worry about the coin comparator at this point since it's passing the coins whether it's working or the rake is bypassed. I had asked if you can get into the self test mode to see if the machine was more or less working. Although you did say the reels spin at power up and don't appear to have any error codes which is a good sign.

[reho33]

That is an IMONEX comparitor that does not require any power to work. It requires a transistor to be clipped on the optics board (Q1)? Anybody have more information on that?

[poppo]

That is an IMONEX comparitor that does not require any power to work.

That is not the machine in question though. He needs to know if the coin optics from that machine will work in the other one that is having the problem. At least to see if the test button will register a credit which doesn't currently work. He could have a bad optics board or bad wiring.

[Foster]

They should

[stayouttadabunker]

The blurry picture ( or are MY eyes THAT bad? lol) has the correct coin comparitor.
It has the two gray wires coming out of the top that run back into the rake's solenoid.
Therefore I think it is a 24volt CC.
 
The 2nd black coin comparator I've never seen before.
I really don't think it will work with your S+.
But, because I've never seen that coin comparator before - don't go by what I say.

Why is it an S+ rather than an straight "S"?
The top of the MPU has a blue volume knob which gives me a clue that it is a 10MHz MPU S+ board.

My guess is that your coin-in optics boards under the coin comparator may have a
burned out optic emitter or receiver diode lamp.

The best way to tell if the coin-in optic sandwich boards are working is to
go into the tests and run a piece of paper through them to shoot yourself a [zero] or a [1] onto the display panel.

In order to go into the tests, you may need to learn how to do that.
I've attached a copy of an SP PSR sheet to this post below.
Take a look at it and learn how to get into the Input and Output Tests around pages 6 and 7.

You can determine what particular SP you have in a few ways.
The easiest way is to turn off the machine, pull the coin tray and hopper out, lift up on the black knob on the MPU tray.
You will see a couple of chips labelled SSxxxx and SPxxxx.
The SP chip number is the one we need to help you further!
Click on the link below to see the other way to find out what chips you have...>>>

http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/SPSS.htm

[stayouttadabunker]

I couldn't attach a PSR to the post...there may be some in the "Submit A New File" area  to look at?

By the way,
I think the coin-in optic sandwich boards from the other machine will work!
But I'd really try the optic Tests 1st.

[poppo]

Bunker,

The test button does not work on the optics board on the machine in question. No need to run optics tests yet if that does not work. That is why he wanted to know if the optic board from the second machine would work. Need to find out if it is a board or wiring problem.

[John0813]

I used the link provided.....in the Winner Paid Window.. the two numbers are 0 and 3634........SS 3634...???

The other number in the Credit Window is 0611...

Does that help...

[stayouttadabunker]

Yes...your SP chip is SP611...
Poppo is right about not running optic tests if it does indeed work.
Have you tried jiggling the connector wires to the coin-in optic boards and the coin comparator?
Sometimes it's just a loose connection.

Looks like you have a Double Diamond 3CM with a 95% SS chip installed in it! 
Attached on top of the picture is a link to your SP611 PSR sheet!
You'll find some helpful information regarding your game chip!>>>

[John0813]

I double cheked the wire connections,  I ran a Q-tip through the comparitor and restarted the machine.....the machine turns on, reels spin, zero in the coins played...and when I insert quarters.... they go into the hopper but do not register as credits.....

[poppo]

I double cheked the wire connections,  I ran a Q-tip through the comparitor and restarted the machine.....the machine turns on, reels spin, zero in the coins played...and when I insert quarters.... they go into the hopper but do not register as credits.....

As long as that test credit button on the optics board does not work, it's not going to register with actual coins. Most likely the board is bad, but it could be wiring or even a MPU issue. This is why running the optics test at this point probably won't yield any useful info as it will probably fail.

So it would be helpful if someone knows for sure if the other (good) optics board is interchangeable so you can try it.

As I noted earlier, it would not hurt to re-seat the MPU and all of the other connectors down by it (follow that bundle coming from the coin optics), since a bad connection can be at either end of the cabling. With power off of course.

[Jim]

the replacement unit you showed in your picture is from a slanttop machine. you should be able to swap the coin optics boards from one to the other.  If that unit worked in the machine that it was in then you can use the Imonex acceptor as well.  (meaning that Q-4 was indeed taken off the board)

remove the ten pin plug from the optic board, remove the two screws from the top optic board, this will allow the board to come out of its notch and expose the coin optic encoder(black piece with three holes on it) it to will come out of a notch, then remove the three hex head screws from the back side of the unit, this should release the optics as a whole. pay attention to the three holes that the screws come out of. there are other holes there for different mountings. reinstall the same way it came out.  

Jim

[Jim]

one other thought!  did you look and see if the rake was shimmed out of the cc-16? if it is this would account why the coin would make it into the hopper. if it is not shimmed and it is getting into the hopper , then the cc-16 is working as advertised, and your problem is probably the optics. 

if it is the optics, I would run the optics test, just for one reason, if the A optic does not respond to the cardboard test then your problem is probably Q-2 or Q-4 on the optics board itself. I would remove it anyway (Q-2 or Q-4) and see if that doesn't fix the problem.

Jim

[poppo]

Jim,

Wouldn't the fact that the test button doesn't add a credit pretty much mean the board is bad or there is a wiring problem?

[Jim]

not necessarily, there is a voltage that comes from the main board that supplies power to the three optics and the test button. if that voltage is missing then the test button can't work. I believe it comes in on pin 8. with out a meter its difficult to say  whats wrong, your basically shotgunning (swaptronics) until your change out the right part. If the voltage is present then you could do the cardboard test and monitor pins 1,3 and 4  and see if the voltage changes as you do the test. this would tell you the optics themselves were working as well as the switch.

Jim