Need advice on a Triple Play machine Please!

[stayouttadabunker]

lol emelie...you're dealing with a buncha nerds here who have no life and just fool around all the time.
Believe me, you'll learn EVERYTHING you want about your machine after a while!
AND...you'll have a bit a fun too! 

So...are you getting a little more comfortable using the multimeter now?
Never, ever be afraid to ask questions...we ARE HERE TO HELP YA!!! 

[emelie]

Bunker, not really lol, but I do know how to test the fuse in the slot now haha.  Actually I had the machine turned off and thought that was the same thing as unplugging it and when Robert tested the white plug in, it sparked and popped.  I was like OH SHIT.  He was like thank God I was just touching the plastic! haha.

So now what do ya'll recommend the next step is?
Em

[stayouttadabunker]

Wow...I did not realize that this thread is now 12 pages long.
Uh...without reading 12 pages of stuff, can you briefly tell us what's wrong with your machine again?
Thanks!

[emelie]

LOL yes 12 pages is kinda a bit to go through.

So right now, when I turn the power on, the reels jiggle for a second and then stop. There is some resistance to them but if I wanted to, I can pull it to move them. Also, the only light that comes on is the light behind the 25cent sticker. Both top and bottom fuses are good behind the coin hopper. Also, I have a coin in the coin comparator and the quarters slide right through.

I think that's it
Em

Edit: just to remind y'all, nothing comes up on the LCD screen (I think that's what it's called), that black screen y'all said should show an error but it doesn't light up

[stayouttadabunker]

OK emelie,
I just spent the last hour re-reading this entire thread...lol
When your friend stuck the multimeter leads into the white "Service Outlet", he may have blown something.
You need to re-check your three fuses again to make sure they're okay...ok? lol

What bothers me really are all those extra black power supplies with the long black cords.
If they were shorted out before at one time, they are now shorting out you bus bar too!
So, we need to remove them.

The one that bothers me the most is the one that plugs into the bus bar next to your power supply.
I've high-lighted the two wires with the green arrows in a photo below.
Pull the two black wires straight out of that bus bar.

By the way, a bus bar is a multi connection point for joining two or
more wires together that run on the same voltages.
That's why you see a lot of red, white and black wires pushed into that bus bar together.
Those are all 115 VAC household current so make sure the slot machine's plug is
out of the wall before pulling on the two black wires!!!
You can pull the power plug out of the side of the power supply connector which another circled in red...

Also, on the big panel over the power transformer are the 3 fuses...next to the fuse holder
on the orange sticker sheet will show you which AMP fuse goes in which of the three holes.
The AMPs are written onto the fuses as an "A".

Here's the photo of the two black power wires you need to remove.
Click on photo to enlarge...>>>

[emelie]

I can't believe you took time to re-read the whole thread, thanks so much Bunker

I did what you told me to, I checked all 3 fuses, they're all still good, thank God!

Also, I removed those two wires.  They go to the black box that's stuck in the machine. (the one ya'll said was for playing tracking).  So since I don't need that box, can I just cut the wires so I don't have them dangling inside the machine in the way?

[bigslope]

I would just tape the end of the wires. Did removing the wires make any different when you switched the machine back on?

[emelie]

ok I'll tape em.  Everything is still the same

[Buzz]

I'm not going to post anymore in this thread, I think we have to many cooks in the kitchen. Neon and Bunker started with the help on this machine so I defer to those two.

Robert, Mark don't forget,  two plugs can be switched on the mother board you won't get a display.

[stayouttadabunker]

I'm not going to post anymore in this thread, I think we have to many cooks in the kitchen. Neon and Bunker started with the help on this machine so I defer to those two.

Robert, Mark don't forget, two plugs can be switched on the mother board you won't get a display.

I agree with you Buzz but I really don't think anyone would have switched those?
I have a fully working machine on the live gaming floor exactly like Emelie's.
I will look in the morning to see what color wires go to which motherboard socket
so I can draw up or photo-shop Emelie a diagram so we can be sure she has the connectors in the right sockets.
I'm sure that will settle that - if it's a problem concerning the display panel.
I'm at home right now and don't have access to my motherboard wiring schematics which would tell me what color wires go where.

I also think that the machine has some sort of error that is causing the "wiggled" reels to stop
 and we can't see the error code  -due to the non-functioning display panel.

What confuses me is that she gets power to most of the motherboard's 6 pins.
I'm wondering which pin is NOT getting juice.
I'm highly suspecting a bad/oxidized ground pin from the power supply harness at this time.
I'm thinking it's one of the two green wires.
I wish she could turn off the power, remove that white Molex and turn it around so
she can tell us if the Molex housing is "browned out" from an over heated pin?
This suspicion comes from the large amount of condensation there was in the bottom of that machine at one time.
Her machine wasn't stored correctly that's for sure or it may have been a Hurricane Katrina victim.

oh...and Emelie, if you cut the two black wires coming out of the bus bar,
please separate the wires and tape them up separately or you will have a short!!!!
I'd very much prefer you pull those two wires straight upwards out of the bus bar - it's not that hard to pull on them.
Just grab one wire with a pliers and pull stiffly, straight up.
Then do the other black wire as well.
They WILL come out...

Don't hurt your hand on the reel shelf when they come out...
sometimes people pull too hard and fly right up to the metal reel shelf and hurt the back of their hands.
Wear gloves if you're afraid.
Thanks!


Again, I stress that you do this with the power plug pulled out of the wall or the machine's end - don't rely on merely switching off the power switch...there's still LIVE HOUSEHOLD CURRENT flowing in the machine around the power supply!

[emelie]

Buzz, thanks for all your help so far

Bunker, I pulled the wires out of the bus bar already.  It's just that they go way up to where the player tracking thing is so I was gonna cut it next to the tracking box so I didn't have those wires just loose in there.

I'm going crabbing today to catch some stuff for supper but when I get back, I'll show you a pic of what I'm talking about and I'll try to take that Molex thing out.
GTG
Em

[stayouttadabunker]

Emelie,
I've made a horrendous mistake in my advice for you earlier.
I have good news and bad news...I know why your Sevens Systems Display is not working.
That's the good news...
The bad news is that I told you to pull out the two black power wires going to the floor bus bar...well...
ahem...that was wrong...you have to repair them or splice them back together.
Apparently after looking at mine, the two black wires from the bus bar run up to that Wallwarts power pack under the reel shelf.
You're going to need that!!!
(I can't believe IGT actually used a Wallwarts power pack... huh?!?!?!)


Okay....I took a bunch of photographs and it will take me a few posts to get
them all in and explain what needs to be done...so here we go.
Remember, you can click on any of these photos to make them larger if needed....
The 1st photo is the Wallwarts power pack under the reel shelf...
you can see I put a green arrow pointing out which one goes to the bus bar
on the floor to receive 115 Volts house current (115VAC) >>>>

[stayouttadabunker]

Now in this photo the arrows show you how the power pack is connected with that small 2-pin white Molex.
(Molex connector housings come in many different sizes and shapes but are called Molexs because that's the name of the company that makes them...lol)

[stayouttadabunker]

In this pic is the bus  bar two black power wires that run the 115VAC to the Wallwarts power pack under the reel shelf.
You need to repair these wires since I've heard you've cut and spliced them...
When splicing them together, twist the wires together and wrap some black electrical tape on the bare wires tightly!!
We don't want any bare wires showing...wrap at least four wraps thick of black electrical vinyl tape!
Make sure the rest of it goes BEHIND the bracket holding the hopper connector...not in front of it or else,
when you slam in the hopper, it may cut the wires and cause a short!>>>

[stayouttadabunker]

Remember earlier you said that there was a connector under
the door button deck that was hanging and free?
Well, it turns out that is needed for the Seven Systems Display panel to work.
(By the way, the Sevens Systems Display is located on top of your bill acceptor
behind the reel glass on the right hand side of your machine.
It's a big, heavy combined unit that houses BOTH the bill acceptor, cash box AND display panel !!!)

Anyways, the 5-pin black AMP connector colors are green/red/gray/gray/gray.
(This connector is called an AMP connector because some company called "Amphenol" makes these...lol)

This connector plugs into a black 5-pin Amp harness connector behind the door....it may be still hanging down in there.
It comes from on a black covered harness from behind the Seven Systems Display.
The AMP connector on the harness is black and has 5-pins too! >>>>

[stayouttadabunker]

Finally, there's one more thick black harness that comes out from behind the
Seven Systems display panel unit and that goes down to the motherboard under the MPU.

The motherboard is generally where all the connections from the machine go to...that's why it's called a "motherboard".
This motherboard in your machine is the one that's on the floor in the left side of your machine.

In the photo below, you can see the black 6-pin AMP connector with the gray harness
( Your's may be a different color harness? I have to check your pics...)
that plugs into the motherboard connector marked as "J6"...

Take a very good look at this photo and compare it to your motherboard connections.
You do not need any more connections than what I've shown you in my photo to have your machine running!

Again, please accept my apologies for asking you to pull out the black Wallwart power wires from the bus bar.
I was under the impression that it was just for the player tracking stuff but after reviewing again this thread -
it turns out that you have 2 separate WALLWARTS power packs in your machine!!!!
There's another one up in the topbox right?
Well...don't cut it! haha
You might need it later to change your messages in the display .
I'll tell you how to do that later...lol
Tell your friend to get rid of his pliers!!!!  >>>

[knagl]

Keep in mind, however, the bill validator is the least of her worries.  Granted, she'll need that power supply to get the validator working, but having a working validator won't do her any good if the rest of the machine isn't working.

Rather than focusing on that, may I suggest keeping this as simple as it can be and trying to get the machine up and running first?

[StatFreak]

...
Rather than focusing on that, may I suggest keeping this as simple as it can be and trying to get the machine up and running first?

Well, that outta cut out about 10 of the 13 pages (including my posts ).
 


  [Ahem] Pardon me.    Pray, continue...

[stayouttadabunker]

Yes...I understand guys but the Sevens Systems DBV is a combined unit with the display panel.
The display panel has a small ribbon cable going down to a larger circuit board -
which in turn has like 2 harnesses coming out of the back of the larger circuit board.

I'm not really trying to get the DBV working rather - I'm trying to get the display working
so we can see what error code is stopping the reels from completion of their "maiden spin" at start up.
My guess at this time could be a possible error code [41,42, or 43] ? 

Without the display panel working...how can we get her machine up and running?

[CaptainHappy]

Yes...I understand guys but the Sevens Systems DBV is a combined unit with the display panel.
The display panel has a small ribbon cable going down to a larger circuit board -
which in turn has like 2 harnesses coming out of the back of the larger circuit board.

I'm not really trying to get the DBV working rather - I'm trying to get the display working
so we can see what error code is stopping the reels from completion of their "maiden spin" at start up.
My guess at this time could be a possible error code [41,42, or 43] ? 

Without the display panel working...how can we get her machine up and running?

Bunker,

I knew what you were trying to do!

CH

[knagl]

My apologies -- I didn't realize that the add-in bill validator also operated the slot display.  Sorry!

[stayouttadabunker]

That's okay knagl,
I removed the screws and covers from the back of the display panel and the Sevens Systems Display/DBV floor,
to take pictures of the circuit boards that are installed in this unit.
You can see how they're all connected via white or gray ribbon cables.
I think I posted these before because if I remember right, Foxxslots had a question about them sometime last year or so.
Click on any photo to enlarge...>>>

[stayouttadabunker]

A couple more pictures of the rest of her Sevens Systems Display stuff under the covers...
If even after hooking it up correctly doesn't get her display working, then I would have to suggest that
Emelie put out an ad for purchase of a long reel glass and a long display Tripp plastics display panel...
It's very possible her display chip is corrupted under the floor panel of her display unit.

From there we will be able to determine what error code is
preventing her reels from completing their "maiden start-up spins"...
it could be just a loose reel connection under the reel shelf too...we don't know at this time...

When I first saw these, I thought they were the S+ printers that I had seen
in the older S+ wiring schematics...but it turned out to be a DBV/Cashbox/Display combo unit instead...
Another thing, there's a crapload of harnesses coming out of the back of this thing
which I tried to show in earlier photos... >>>

[emelie]

OK I'm pretty sure everything that I have matches your pictures...

I tried to caption mine the best I could using the Paint program but it doesn't look as good as yours 

Oh yea, and I don't know what you meant by there being 2 Wallwarts packs.  There are 2 wires coming out of the Wallwarts packs at the top.  One on each side.

But first here are my pics...

On the J6 there's a white ribbon in front of the J6 Connector that's not in your pics.

[emelie]

I hadn't cut the wires to the bus bar so I was able to just plug them back in.