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Author Topic: Need advice on a Triple Play machine Please!  (Read 117771 times)
emelie
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« Reply #200 on: July 28, 2011, 09:33:21 PM »

OK so I just clicked on my pics and my writing didn't come out big like yours did  Duh!

Anyways, It was just labeling everything like you did to make sure I was getting it right.

Edit: Oh wait, the other wire in my pics going up into where the reels are is connected to the black box that I inplugged to plug in the new power cord.  Is that the other Wallwart pack?  Cause I don't see where I can plug it in at...
« Last Edit: July 28, 2011, 09:43:48 PM by emelie » Logged

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« Reply #201 on: July 28, 2011, 11:49:39 PM »

Hmm...I'm not sure Emelie but it does look like your Wallwarts power pack wires
under the reel shelf is coming out of both sides.
And it looks like you have a power wire going up the right side of the machine to the topbox.
I think that's for the topbox Wallwarts power pack upstairs for the player tracking system.
Make sure that the Wallwarts under the reel shelf is plugged into the floor bus bar, not the upstairs one...
Don't worry about the power wires for the player tracking system right now.

That ribbon cable that's plugged into the from of your motherboard is for the DBV (Dollar Bill Validator)
The machines I work with are not using the DBV's. (They run on quarters only...no bills.)
You don't need that plugged in for your machine to work but
you can leave it plugged in because it doesn't hurt anything.
I'd like to add that the mostly brown wires on that other connector is for the mechanical counters-
that's fine in there too.
In fact everything you have looks good but the display is not working even though
the J6 (green, yellow, black, and white wires) appears okay.
I'd like you to jiggle that J6 connector and see if the display lights comes on at all.

Don't worry about the captioning...it looks fine when I enlarge the pictures on my desktop screen.
I can read them fine.

I'm worried at this time that your display is NOT coming on.
I think all your power wires are okay because you have it plugged into the bus bar,
the motherboard, and the AMP connector behind the door under the button deck.

If you are still getting just the .25 cent sticker to light up but no lights on the Sevens System display -
I am left with no choice but to recommend you to place an ad for an S+ long reel glass and long display panel.
The long display panel that you get will plug into that black AMP connector under the button deck.

If you PM me you address, I will send you a long display panel but
you're going to have to get yourself a long reel glass.
When you get these  parts, I will show you how to take out the Sevens System
and replace all that now-defunct unit with a long reel glass and long display panel.
From there, we may be able to see error codes on the display and
work more on getting your machine up and running.

I have most of the stuff you need to get it going that I will let you borrow.
I will need some of the stuff back after you order your parts that you may need.

At the moment, more than anything else, you need a regular reel glass display panel
so we can do some trouble shooting.
Without it - we can't go much further right now.
« Last Edit: July 28, 2011, 11:55:59 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
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« Reply #202 on: July 28, 2011, 11:56:53 PM »

Emelie,
Please re-read my last post as I made a couple of edits...
You might need to hit the refresh screen or the F5 button on your keyboard.
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« Reply #203 on: July 29, 2011, 12:31:17 AM »

One last suggestion before ordering the long glass and newer display.
Bunker, did you ask her to check the voltage coming out of the Walwort supply to the Systems Seven?
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« Reply #204 on: July 29, 2011, 12:44:31 AM »

No...but that's a good idea too...!

Not too too easy to do but here we go>>>

Emelie, remember that little white 2-pin plug?
Set your multimeter for like 200 VAC or what was it on yours? ACV? lol
Unplug and separate that 2-pin connectors that come from
the Wallwarts power pack under your reel shelf.
Be very careful when doing this...
turn on the machine's power switch.
carefully watch the leads and touch with both multimeter leads
onto the two pins inside that connector.

Do NOT cross them or you'll get a spark and the power pack will short out!
Make sure you have one lead on one pin and one lead on the other and glance at you multimeter
and report back to us what reading you have on it.

Turn off the power after doing this so nothing else happens.
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« Reply #205 on: July 29, 2011, 02:18:53 AM »

Bunker   Where do you entend to find the wires and plugs for a long display ??
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« Reply #206 on: July 29, 2011, 11:42:07 AM »

Bunker   Where do you entend to find the wires and plugs for a long display ??

She has the black 4-pin and 5-pin AMP connectors for the reel glass display panels right under the button deck in her earlier pictures... yes
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« Reply #207 on: July 29, 2011, 10:22:11 PM »

No...but that's a good idea too...!

Not too too easy to do but here we go>>>

Emelie, remember that little white 2-pin plug?
Set your multimeter for like 200 VAC or what was it on yours? ACV? lol
Unplug and separate that 2-pin connectors that come from
the Wallwarts power pack under your reel shelf.
Be very careful when doing this...
turn on the machine's power switch.
carefully watch the leads and touch with both multimeter leads
onto the two pins inside that connector.

Do NOT cross them or you'll get a spark and the power pack will short out!
Make sure you have one lead on one pin and one lead on the other and glance at you multimeter
and report back to us what reading you have on it.

Turn off the power after doing this so nothing else happens.

Out of curiosity ... What should the output voltage of the Systems Seven Wall Wart be?  Also, should the output be AC or DC? 

Another issue that has me curious is the fact that we still don't know what the voltages are on the White Molex going to the motherboard.  All we heard was that it had "Power".

I would be interested to know if the two Orange wires on the White Molex had the proper 24 VAC on it.   Without the 24VAC there would be no display or Candle indicators. 
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« Reply #208 on: July 29, 2011, 10:56:22 PM »

I have no idea Comm Tech...I'd have to pull it out of the bracket to see if anything is written on it
or check the output via a multimeter on a live floor machine.
I won't be able to check until Monday morning at the earliest really.
The only thing we know is that the "input" voltage for the Wallwart's power pack is 115VAC...
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« Reply #209 on: August 20, 2011, 08:00:45 AM »

Emelie, have you any progress on this machine yet? Has been good reading to date
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« Reply #210 on: August 30, 2011, 04:27:22 PM »

Sha Lord, I'm gonna have to re read this whole thread to understand what you told me to do.  Been really busy the past month so I haven't been able to mess with my machine.  Just want to apologize to everyone who's been helping me!!
Bunker, I sent you a PM Smiley
Emelie

Edit: I put it on 200 ACV and tested that 2 pin plug.  Don't know if I did it right but it stayed on 00.0
« Last Edit: August 30, 2011, 05:04:04 PM by emelie » Logged

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« Reply #211 on: August 30, 2011, 08:50:47 PM »

wow! Holy Thread Revival Batwoman!
Welcome back!  Cheer Leader  rotflmao

I will look at the voltage output of the wallwart powerpack in the morning
and post up a reading and some information for ya.
« Last Edit: August 31, 2011, 11:50:56 AM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
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« Reply #212 on: August 31, 2011, 11:44:27 AM »

Okay,
I just went and checked the voltage coming out of that 2-pin connector.
With the power off, grab both white connector housings that run out to
the gray harness for the display/DBV harness and wiggle them apart.
Do NOT pull on the wires themselves or they will come out of the housing!
Just make sure you are tugging on the white plastic connector housings only!
They've been connected for almost 20 years or so and are going to be wickedly jammed together from oxidization.
Basically, the receptor pins are nearly "welded" to the male pins inside the housings.

Once you have them apart, turn on the power switch for your machine.
Set the dial on your multimeter to 200DCV and insert the black prong into the pointy side of the connector.
Insert the red prong into the other side and you should get a reading very close to 14.4VDC (Volts Direct Current)
If you get a negative reading of (-14.4) then the prongs are reversed and it's really no problem.
All that happened is you got a backwards reading on your multimeter.

If you do not get a reading at all while your multimeter is in the DC setting, then I would have to say that power pack is shot.
I will await for you report back to us then wrap up a long reel display panel for you and send it out.
We need to see what the error codes are and will only be able to do that once we get a display up and running.
« Last Edit: August 31, 2011, 11:50:16 AM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
emelie
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« Reply #213 on: August 31, 2011, 03:58:39 PM »

OK so when you say to put the black prong into the pointy side of the connector, that means touch it to the pins, right?  And red goes in the female part of the connector?

Cause when I do that, I still only have 0 on my meter Sad

I'm thinking maybe I should make you a video of what I'm doing to be sure I'm doing it right? 

Also what is a long reel display panel?  Is it like a piece of glass?  Just wondering cause I have all glass I'm supposed to....I think, lol.  Where would I go about buying one so I can return yours?  Oh, and PM me the cost of shipping with your paypal addy so you're not out that money!
Em
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« Reply #214 on: August 31, 2011, 05:02:46 PM »

The one I was going to give to you doesn't work.
Here's a couple of links to the parts you need to have a working display for your S+.>>>

Long Reel Glass Display Panel>>>

http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=37&product_id=1386


Reel Glass>>>

http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=37&product_id=1445




or you can place an ad for for what you need in the "Classifieds" section of NLG.
The two prongs of your multimeter should touch the 2 pins of the connector that come OUT of the powerpack.
You want to try and get a reading of what is coming OUT of that powerpack.
If you get a reading of around 14VDC, then I really am not sure what's wrong other
than it's very possible that DBV Sevens unit doesn't work anymore.
It's way outdated anyways...
If you're not getting any voltages coming out of that powerpack, I suggest you scrap the whole Sevens DBV setup
and just go with a long reel glass and display instead.
It will cost too much to try and instead a complete DBV unit.
However, you machine won't be able to take any bills anymore.
But you'll be able to take coins or tokens and have a working machine!


* long reel glass display.jpg (163.54 KB, 2576x521 - viewed 278 times.)
« Last Edit: August 31, 2011, 05:10:31 PM by stayouttadabunker » Logged
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« Reply #215 on: August 31, 2011, 05:29:50 PM »

Here's a picture of the connector coming FROM the powerpack.
Touch the black prong of your multimeter to the pointy hole (female receptor pin)
and touch the red prong of your multimeter to the bottom receptor pin to
get a positive reading on your multimeter.
Set the multimeter to 200VDC and turn on the power to your machine.


* pointy side.jpg (26.14 KB, 630x631 - viewed 270 times.)
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« Reply #216 on: September 07, 2011, 03:49:01 PM »

Great so if I purchase those things and install them then my machine will for sure work??
I'm so excited!

I'm gonna order those parts today and see if I can find a video on youtube telling me how to take out the Sevens DBV Setup.  I'm so ready to play this machine!

Em
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« Reply #217 on: September 07, 2011, 04:17:21 PM »

Yes,
If you get the parts it will help you troubleshoot the problems because
we will be able to see what codes it's putting out onto the display.
As far as finding a video on removing a Sevens Systems - probably doesn't exist...
However, you don't need a video...when your parts come in, we will walk you through
the BV removal step by step until your machine is up and running.

This may take some time but seeing that you've responded like a week
after my last post - time doesn't seem to be a problem! lol
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« Reply #218 on: September 07, 2011, 04:49:59 PM »

So sorry I've been responding late.  We've been changing the floor in the bathroom of our camper before we bring it to our "hurricane evacuation" land in Mississippi.  Between that and my 3 year old is in dancing, cheerleading, and glitz pageants it's hard to get time to work on the machine!  So thank you for staying so patient with me, God knows I wouldn't be able to do this without you!   

I'll let you know when the parts come in cause we're going to Miss. Friday till Sunday Smiley

Em
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« Reply #219 on: September 11, 2011, 10:27:34 PM »

Just got  back from Miss. and I had a package on my doorstep...parts came in yay!
One step closer...
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« Reply #220 on: September 13, 2011, 06:49:19 PM »

Emelie. NLG is back up, now can pick up where left off on facebook. Did you get it out?
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« Reply #221 on: September 13, 2011, 08:05:02 PM »

No, not yet.  I'll post as soon as soon as my dad gets here and we can undo those bolts
Em
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« Reply #222 on: September 14, 2011, 06:31:58 PM »

OK so I got it off!  Here are the pics of what it looks like now.  Oh yea, and it was plugged into this black piece which I'll show a photo of below.  The black thing has ITT Cannon DB 51226-1B on it.  Do ya'll need a pic of it with the top glass off?  Cause there's some more wires up there.
Em


* P1010026.JPG (1393.81 KB, 3072x2304 - viewed 324 times.)

* P1010027.JPG (1027.52 KB, 3072x2304 - viewed 332 times.)
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« Reply #223 on: September 14, 2011, 06:33:54 PM »

the other pics


* P1010028.JPG (1067.46 KB, 3072x2304 - viewed 316 times.)

* P1010029.JPG (1527.89 KB, 3072x2304 - viewed 314 times.)
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« Reply #224 on: September 14, 2011, 06:48:17 PM »

What's that big hole in the reel glass for? 
Looks like a half slant/ half upright machine now! rotflmao jk

OK, now you gotta plug your new display into the harness that's located under the button deck.
Be careful removing the reel glass and don't drop it.
Did you get your long reel glass yet?

Leave the wires in the topbox alone for now....it's probably just player tracking stuff.
We will get into that later.

Anyways, show us what display you bought?
Then we will go from there.
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