Hi there,

first of all I want to say something about me - I'm Daniel and I come from Bavaria/Germany. I'm a big fan of US Slot Machines.
So far I have only two of them - a bally proslot ("five and dime") and an older one - a bally "nickels" E-1227, manufactured in 1982.
I hope you'll understand my English - feel free to tell me if there's anything wrong - I like to improve :-)

The problem with my "Nickels", that once worked perfectly, is the following:
When turning power on, it doesn't start its self test. Only the lamps are lit and the led display shows "0....."
Sometimes all the payline leds and the lamps for tilt, insert coin, winner paid and so on are flashing for about half a second.
When I open the door, the machine begins to rattle (don't know if that's the right word for it). That means, all the counters for paid coins, inserted coins and so on are counting all the time.
Furthermore, the coil that effects that coins don't reach the hopper when it's full turns on and off all the time (I have marked it in the picture).
You can't put in a coin and you can't play.

The RAM battery is ok and I gave the mpu board to an electrician who checked it. Everything should be ok with it.
I also have taken out the hopper and the reel unit to see if the problem still appears, and it does.

I can't remember any situation that could be the reason for the problem.

Is there anybody who knows about a similar problem or anybody who could imagine what kind of problem it could be?

I'm to Vegas some days in September. So I could buy spare parts. But I have to know which one :-)

I'd be so happy if it works again........

Thanks in advance,

Daniel

Paul,

thanks very much for your answer.

I was just looking for the audit key switch, but I think I didn't find the right one.

Can you tell me where it is located? I only found a key switch for the meter display (where the counters are counting all the time), the tilt switch (when I turn it on the rattling becomes more intensive) and the power reset switch. There are also some other switches in the machine, but those are not used with a key.

Daniel

you have a US Military model E-series - has different boards than a standard E-series - and resetting is also different - there is a reset key on the handle side of the machines (if no key) you can manually activate the switch on the inside of the cabinet - if it resets - the BELL will starting ringing (press the button located on the top left of the door).  if meter still shows 0 - then you have board problems - note also that the machine used OPTIC boards for coin accepting.

I noticed in your pictures that there appears to be two key switches on the side of the machine where the handle is:  what is the one above the handle for? the one below the handle is the switch we are referring to. since you don't have a key for it, you can activate the switch by using your finger, then you have to press the two buttons on top of the hopper control board to reset everything, if the bell starts to ring , then you push the button located on the right side and to the right of the reel assembly, its the only push button switch there.( its visible in your pictures)
on most 1000 series machines there was a piggy back board on the cpu that had two push on type connectors for the ram chips and battery. it appears that yours is similar to a 2000 series board where as the ram and battery are part of the cpu board. are the ram chips in sockets? you can try and flex this board and see if it changes anything. be cautious though, if you push on it to hard you could short it out to the metal cabinet. put some non conductive  material behind it before you flex and push on it. sometimes bad sockets etc. could cause your condition.
the other issue with these machines was the power supply connections, these were the type that has a "V" on top of the metal pin, the wire was inserted into the "V" and pressure was applied and the insulation was pierced and the connection was made. these become very intermittent and could cause your condition. later machines had crimp on connectors to remedy this problem.
I would try these and see what happens.

Jim

jim this is a MILITARY E-Series -  not a standard E-series -  they use non-standard boards - non- standard tests!!!  read my earlier post.

check your power supply

The power supply is under the reels and here is how to test

Thanks to proten & Amachanic,

it's really great to have you guys - not getting tired to give me hints, I'll check that all and report to you soon :-)

Daniel

NewsHunter,
My problem was the MPU board. Barry- FOXSLOTS got it going for me.
Barry replaced the entire MPU board.

Not sure if that is your issue?