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Author Topic: IGT PE+ Video poker White HOT Aces HELP!!!  (Read 57098 times)
Mouse
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« on: August 16, 2011, 09:25:22 PM »

I just bought a IGT PE+ video poker machine, i fell head over heals and i see why everyone on here talks about how addictive they are. Mine is not even fixed yet and i want another Smiley so i bought it for $150 it lights up..... that's about it  Duh! when i brought it home a wavy screen would pop up and say "call attendant" some other error message that i could not read. But my husband pulled it apart to "fix" it and broke one of the leg's of the chip on the control board (in slot c16) so now i have screen that lights up, says nothing and just frustrates me lol.
List of problems:
1. Wavy screen. i think i need a monitor cap kit, i have no idea what that is or how to use it i just know where to buy it
2.call attendant??
3.cards burnt into screen

So anyway..... any words of wisdom would be great... Links to eBay for what to buy... anything i would be very grateful!

Thanks
Mouse


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AnotherTech
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« Reply #1 on: August 16, 2011, 11:56:53 PM »

One of the vendors here could probably help you with the broken chip.  Clearer pics of the board and chip will help with that.  You might even be able to repair the chip, depending on where the leg broke.  yes

The monitor cap kit will probably fix the wavey problem, but it requires soldering to install.  If you or someone you know can solder, it's not too hard, but you will still have the cards burnt into screen.  There's really no way to fix burn in other than replacing the CRT.  Burn in is VERY common on the old video poker machines and often isn't too noticeable while playing.

The call attendant could be several things and may just need to be cleared.
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jay
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if you cant afford to lose you cant afford to win


« Reply #2 on: August 17, 2011, 03:22:54 AM »

If you have a damaged chip on your board there might be other components damaged as well, cracked traces etc.

My advice would be to hit Ebay and pick up a PE+ Superboard MPU (same as what you have). The cost will be between 20 and 50 and will likely have a game of some sort on it.
This should get your machine working quickly.

Next I would contact Lemans Slot sales who sells game kits for the PE+ (she might have the boards too) - see the banner add on the NLG home page. If it links you to her ebay adds her phone number is in the add. Call her. She has the stuff.
I would then buy a game kit which could be just the chips or chips + glass (your choice).

You can then swap the chips with the damaged ones on your original board.

Worst case is that you would use the chips with your new board.

Have fun

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Buzz
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« Reply #3 on: August 17, 2011, 04:11:07 AM »

Jay  This is only a guess, but we both know a eprom would not be in a socket with a name starting with the letter "C" my experience is a eprom is always in a "U" socket

Dawn said C 16 and I kind of think she meant C 18 which is right next to U 43 the CAP PROM. In her fuzzy picture it doesn't look like U 43 has a label so we need to figure out which CAP PROM she needs for White HOT Aces.  Like I said this is all guess work right now.

Dawn can you please tell us for sure which chip lost a leg, and if the leg broke off at the very top or half way down. And exactly which chip are we talking about.
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Mouse
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« Reply #4 on: August 17, 2011, 04:49:47 AM »

Thanks for the interest guys! ok here are some more pictures, Buzz you where right i meant C18 not C16.  The numbers i put in yellow are the numbers on the chip. The other pictures are some weird red stuff on a few of the chips. It is close to the battery so it might be damage from a bad batt. and lastly i have a close up on one of the chips legs. That's the program chip, It looks corroded

Jay, I have looked up getting the whole board like you are saying but they either cost $70+ or i am unclear on if its the right board i need.
"I would then buy a game kit which could be just the chips or chips + glass (your choice)" You mean like change the whole game inside to something new? well with the cards burned in i kind of have to stick with cards of some kind lol

Another Tech, I can solder but i lost the little leg. If i could find the right part i would just like to repace it. Your right about the burnt in image, I shouldn't be so picky Smiley

More posts with more pictures... if i can



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Mouse
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« Reply #5 on: August 17, 2011, 04:53:30 AM »

more


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Mouse
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« Reply #6 on: August 17, 2011, 04:54:39 AM »

Last one. Just to be clear the circle on the one chip is the leg that broke off


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Buzz
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« Reply #7 on: August 17, 2011, 05:18:05 AM »

Some of these pictures of your board makes me think it's been underwater. The Red stuff you see I think is just tape.

If you want to try and get this board working first the eprom needs repaired. You can make a new leg out of some strands of copper wire. Just solder the wire to the upper part of the broken leg, then fill the entire copper strand with solder, cut it off to the proper length and install. Or PM me your address and I'll send you a donor eprom that you can get another leg from.
( I live on the West Coast and it will take the mail a few days ) Or see if a local TV shop might have a old eprom you can use for a donor chip.

I don't think you can put any kind of game into a PE/PE+ unless it's some kind of card game, maybe Keno I'm not sure.
« Last Edit: August 17, 2011, 06:13:26 AM by Buzz » Logged

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Mouse
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« Reply #8 on: August 17, 2011, 01:38:22 PM »

You really think it was under water?? weird. We are in Florida where the humidity is pretty high, think that could cause what you think is water damage? When you say EMPROM you mean what i call a chip right, like the whole chip in C18. When you say donor you just mean a generic chip we can steal a leg off? (sorry I'm not down with the lingo lol)

Also i read alot about a clear chip.. I get that it clears all error msgs ( i assume like taking your car to get the "check engine: light turned off) so i assume i need it. Where should i get it from, there are a million places on eBay and also where do i put it?
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« Reply #9 on: August 17, 2011, 03:03:35 PM »

The C18 is meant for the cap. above the chip.
The chip that is broken is the U43 .
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Buzz
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« Reply #10 on: August 17, 2011, 04:01:17 PM »

I don't know if it's been underwater or not, does the word Katrina mean anything to you. I know the last two pictures you posted that board looks nasty. Maybe what I'm seeing is just that old red tape. When He's not around, take your Husbands toothbrush and see if you can clear away some of that junk around U 74.

A clear chip is a lot like a fire extinguisher, it's something you need around but hope you never have to use it. True some of our members think a clear will fix everything from a flat tire on their car to lowering their blood pressure. Most times it doesn't help and they then post here what did I do wrong! I've seen no indication yet that you need a clear. "Call Attendant" is a very commen error and so far that is the only thing keeping your machine from working. ( I'm sure there will be other issues )

We need the picture back and repairing the broken leg must be addressed before we can go forward. ( Your Husband isn't the first to break a leg on a eprom / chip.)

As : AnotherTech stated the burn in is what it is, only way to get rid of it is replace the picture tube. I'm not sure if a brand new one is available in the 13" size. Ceronix doesn't have any. Or you can change to a LCD monitor for about $400, lot of money but damn they look good.
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« Reply #11 on: August 17, 2011, 04:10:41 PM »

There is a seller on EBay that is selling new in box
 13" Ceronix tubes with neck coils for $295 + shipping.
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Buzz
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« Reply #12 on: August 17, 2011, 04:21:45 PM »

There is a seller on EBay that is selling new in box
 13" Ceronix tubes with neck coils for $295 + shipping.

Paul  Would you pay $295 + for a CRT tube before you paid $400 for a complete LCD ??   I wouldn't !!!!!
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stayouttadabunker
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« Reply #13 on: August 17, 2011, 04:28:01 PM »

There is a seller on EBay that is selling new in box
 13" Ceronix tubes with neck coils for $295 + shipping.

Paul  Would you pay $295 + for a CRT tube before you paid $400 for a complete LCD ??   I wouldn't !!!!!

I'd go buy a $20 board 1st.... Crazy
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proten
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« Reply #14 on: August 17, 2011, 04:56:22 PM »

I didn't say I would buy the tube.
I just pointed out that they are available and the price.
The LCD is the better way to go but some people
prefer to restore back to original specs.
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Kevin


« Reply #15 on: August 17, 2011, 05:28:34 PM »

I have looked up getting the whole board like you are saying but they either cost $70+ or i am unclear on if its the right board i need.


You just missed one for $30 that sold a couple of days ago:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220826479793

The only one I see on eBay right now is $75, and that's too much.  I'd try posting a WTB ("Want To Buy") ad in the classifieds section of our site to see if a vendor here can get you a new board at a reasonable price.  I agree with Buzz -- it looks like that board has been underwater, or in a very VERY humid environment where rust was able to form.  A new board isn't a bad plan here.  How does the inside of your machine, especially the inside bottom look?  Any signs of water damage?

You won't need a clear chip for your PE+ -- I wouldn't waste money on it.  You will eventually need a SET chip to enable the bill validator, but we can cross that bridge later.

I'm sure you've already beaten him up for it, but why on earth was your husband removing that chip to try and "fix" the machine?  That chip isn't even one that you'd ever need to remove from the board.  To save yourself some headaches and $$ in the future, please post here first if you're having trouble with your machine and our experienced members will be happy to help point you in the right direction.
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« Reply #16 on: August 17, 2011, 06:18:33 PM »

...You will eventually need a SET chip to enable the bill validator, but we can cross that bridge later.
...

But wouldn't it be a good idea to just add it to the MPU order and avoid the rush? Scratch Head  
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Kevin


« Reply #17 on: August 17, 2011, 07:02:31 PM »

But wouldn't it be a good idea to just add it to the MPU order and avoid the rush? Scratch Head  

If it's from the same vendor, sure.  If not, I don't personally see a pressing need -- even after the MPU board is replaced, there's still what sounds like a significant monitor issue to be resolved.
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« Reply #18 on: August 17, 2011, 07:16:27 PM »

I don't think it's ever been confermed that it has a bill validator, comparator, hopper,

Dawn  How about a picture with the door open, the inside of the door, and a pic. of the inside of the machine .  please
« Last Edit: August 17, 2011, 07:27:10 PM by Buzz » Logged

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Mouse
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« Reply #19 on: August 17, 2011, 07:28:09 PM »

It does have a hopper, bill validator and i dont know what a comparitor is. The inside doesn't look water damaged to me, But i might not be looking for the right thing. I am tempted to just change the whole superboard or control board (whatever its called) like someone had suggested (sorry i forget who). sigh.. I dont know what to do now. I would love an LCD but so far we have a $150 dust collector so its hard to justify that kind of money on something that doesn't work atm lol. So guys what should i do? do i buy a whole new board.. do i just fix it one piece at a time(aka fix the broken leg, then new program chip, then a cap kits) I will take a picture of the inside tonight.

My husband is a computer tech so he just wanted to pull it apart.. your men, you should understand that lol

Thanks again guys Smiley
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« Reply #20 on: August 17, 2011, 07:48:31 PM »

Just tell him to keep his fat fingers out unless he's willing to come here and ask directions. Crazy frying pan Cry Laughing Cry Laughing


Stat garfield



It does have a hopper, bill validator and i dont know what a comparitor is.
...

<ADD>  Coin Comparitor (Deliberately misspelled as it is a trademarked brand name – as opposed to the word comparator.) It's the top part of the coin acceptor assembly. It holds the sample coin and compares the inserted coin's metal content (magnetic signature, actually) with the signature of the sample coin and rejects those that don't match.

Coins that are "accepted" then pass through the coin optic board. This board doesn't discriminate and sends a signal to the computer that a credit has been accepted. Although it doesn't discriminate as to content, it does check size to a certain degree and mostly prevents a player from "stringing" the coin (trying to pull it back out after registering a credit.) It typically has three optics and they have to be occluded and un-occluded in a certain order and time frame for the credit to be registered. If not, the machine tilts and displays an error code.
« Last Edit: August 17, 2011, 08:03:51 PM by StatFreak » Logged

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Kevin


« Reply #21 on: August 17, 2011, 08:32:08 PM »

So guys what should i do? do i buy a whole new board..


Yes.  Start there, let's at least get the machine working, then you can worry about the monitor and whatnot.


I'd try posting a WTB ("Want To Buy") ad in the classifieds section of our site to see if a vendor here can get you a new board at a reasonable price.



In your post, state that you are looking for an IGT PE+ superboard in an upright tray with a poker game chipset.
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Mouse
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« Reply #22 on: August 17, 2011, 09:02:55 PM »

Can you guys hook me up with an eBay link of one that will fit right. I'm really worried I will pick the wrong one and loose $75 or whatever it costs. I relieved my husband of the fixing the slot machine duty. So his "fat fingers" wont be anywhere near her. lol
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« Reply #23 on: August 17, 2011, 09:07:00 PM »

Post the WTB as knagl worded it HERE on our classified board. Forget FleaSpray.


Stat garfield
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« Reply #24 on: August 17, 2011, 09:11:34 PM »

the one on eBay has a make offer on the listing.
Make them a offer, all that can be said is "NO"
to your price.
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